Tuesday, December 27th, 2011

Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Spring 2012: Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad ($57.00 for 0.24 oz.) is described simply as having shades of “peach, gold, beige, and plum.”  It looks like it’s joining the permanent range, per Chanel’s press release.  This color palette should work across skin tones, both warm and cool, light to dark.

The upper left shade is a peachy-orange with a soft frosted finish. It’s not quite peach, but it’s not quite orange. I almost thought it was in the vein of corals but it doesn’t have enough pink in it. The pigmentation is rich, and the texture is buttery and dense, so it’s very soft and smooth. Dolce & Gabbana Jewels has a slightly similar shade, which appears more orange and less vibrant. Make Up For Ever #153 is the closest shade I could find, though it has a golden sheen.

The upper right shade is a pale ivory with yellowy gold sparkle. This is the frustrating shade I mentioned earlier; it is sheer, powdery, and the sparkle gets everywhere. I tried to use this on the inner third of my lid, and the majority of the shimmer landed underneath my eye, plus the sheerness made it look like virtually nothing was on my lid. MAC Carefree is similar but a little yellower in the base color and doesn’t have fall out issues. Make Up For Ever #101 has a stronger gold sheen instead of the gold sparkle.

The lower left shade is a medium-dark beige brown with a pearly sheen. It’s soft and smooth, and the color payoff is nice. Make Up For Ever #13 is more metallic and a bit darker. MAC Sweet Satisfaction is similar but seems warmer. MAC Grain is a touch lighter, while MAC Arena is a little darker.

The lower right shade is a reddened burgundy with red-brown undertones. The pigmentation is intense and opaque, while the texture is silky smooth. Make Up For Ever #17 is more metallic and browner. MAC Festive Delight is redder and lighter. MAC Cranberry is redder and lighter. Inglot #452 is more metallic but similar in color–just a touch lighter.

With the exception of one really frustrating shade to work with (more on that later!), I really enjoyed this quad. I think it’s fairly dupeable, though, so you may want to shop your own stash to see if you can recreate the color palette yourself. I can’t recommend something that has such a dud in it at this price point.

The Glossover

palette

Eclosion

B+
With the exception of one really frustrating shade to work with (more on that later!), I really enjoyed this quad. I think it's fairly dupeable, though, so you may want to shop your own stash to see if you can recreate the color palette yourself. I can't recommend something that has such a dud in it at this price point.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Saturday, December 24th, 2011

Tarina Tarantino Diamond Dusk Jewel Eyeshadow Palette
Tarina Tarantino Diamond Dusk Jewel Eyeshadow Palette

Tarina Tarantino Diamond Dusk Jewel Eyeshadow Palette ($20.00 for 0.32 oz.) is the other limited edition holiday palette that’s now sold out online but is still available in (some) Sephora stores. Again, as today and Monday are sure to be high traffic mall-going days, in case you’re there, look for this! $20 (these are normally $32!) gets you a full-sized palette featuring five stunning eyeshadows. The outer packaging of this is rather holographic and the metallic portion is a pink-lilac.

The top shade is a grayish lavender with a strong, white frosted finish. It’s super shimmery, but the texture is soft and smooth–vrey dense–and yields good color payoff. It reminded me of a more pigmented MAC Silverwear.

On the left, there is a soft pinky-white with an iridiescent pink-gold shimmer-sheen. It’s smooth and soft with good color payoff. It doesn’t have quite the duochrome that Make Up For Ever #940 has but slightly similar. MAC Defiance is similar, and I suspect MAC Vanilla is also fairly close.

The middle shade is a medium-dark gray with a silvered, metallic sheen. There are hints of brown in the undertones. It applies very smoothly and has great pigmentation. Bobbi Brown Silver is similar. Urban Decay S&M is a bit darker and browner.

On the right, there is a coral-pink with a satiny sheen. There’s a lightness and softness to the color, but it’s not sheer at all. Inglot #359 lacks the sheen, so it appears a bit different, but this was the most similar shade I could find. MAC Rose is a bit darker and pinker.

The bottom shade is a deep, dark black with teal and silver shimmer. This shade is so dense and buttery with excellent pigmentation–I was really impressed, because so often these types of black eyeshadows are dry and chalky with little payoff! It is similar to Lancome The New Black and Chanel Mirifique.

The Glossover

palette

Diamond Dusk

A

This is an interesting selection of colors to put in a palette--in a good way--I think it works, but it's a little different. You could do some warmer smoky eyes here, or you could go more traditional and keep it cooler-toned with more gray/black.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, December 24th, 2011

Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm Jewel Eyeshadow Palette
Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm Jewel Eyeshadow Palette

Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm Jewel Eyeshadow Palette

Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm Jewel Eyeshadow Palette ($20.00 for 0.32 oz.) is a limited edition palette from the Aurora holiday collection, which, apparently, sold out between when I tested this and today, at least online. A few readers said it’s still in stores, though, so on the off chance that you’re braving the mall today or gearing up to spend any Sephora gift cards on Monday, maybe this will be of help. $20 (these are normally $32!) gets you a full-sized palette featuring five stunning eyeshadows. The outer packaging of this is rather holographic and the metallic portion is a pink-lilac.

The top shade is a dirty, almost mint-esque, green. The color payoff is good, and the texture is soft and smooth when applied. None of the many, many green eyeshadows I’ve come across seemed to compare. Make Up For Ever #302 came the closest, buit it’s much more of a teal, whereas this one is still fairly green.

On the left, there is a pale, metallic pink with subtle gold sheen; the pink has more of a yellow undertone, so it is a warmer pink. The color payoff is good, though the texture is just a smidgen dry compared to other Tarina Tarantino eyeshadows, but it’s still quite soft and there’s no difficult in applying it. It is similar to the pink in the Delightful palette. MAC Defiance is similar but lighter.

In the middle of the palette is a purple-tinted blue–it’s not quite indigo, not quite violet–wiath a satiny sheen. It has a really dense, soft texture and intense color payoff. NARS Rated R is quite a bit lighter. It’s not as purple as MAC Cobalt or as a blue (or as dark!) as MAC Atlantic Blue. It’s a bit like MAC Royale but bluer.

On the right, there is a pink-lilac with a very frosted finish. It’s incredibly soft to the touch, so it applies very smoothly and yields excellent pigmentation. Inglot #440 is a bit lighter. theBalm Curtain Call is a little pinker and lighter.

The final shade, on the bottom, is a jewel-toned purple with a soft, frosted finish. It has good pigmentation, and it applies very smoothly against the skin. MAC Shock-a-holic is similar in color but has a matte finish. MAC Violet has less red tones.

The Glossover

palette

Violet Storm

A

It's a stunning palette, and at $20, it's really a steal. The color payoff is really good across the board, with a little variance between good and excellent, but everything is well above average here. I would recommend picking this up if you happen to find it in-stores!

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, December 15th, 2011

Tarina Tarantino Wonderful Jewel Eyeshadow Palette
Tarina Tarantino Wonderful Jewel Eyeshadow Palette

Tarina Tarantino Wonderful Jewel Eyeshadow Palette ($32.00 for 0.32 oz.) is an earthy color combination of pale yellow, mossy green, copper, minty green, and bronze-shimmered brown. It’s not overly warm, though the shades are more warm than not, so I think it could be worn by cooler complexions–that minty green and the darkness of the mossy green would work well.

On the left, there’s a soft yellow with a frosted, slightly metallic finish. The color payoff is nice, and the texture is smooth. Make Up For Ever #102 is a bit darker and matte. It’s closer to theBalm Wild Child and MAC Nylon.

The top shade is a mossy green with subtle warm brown undertones. It has a slightly shimmered finish with good color payoff (could be a touch more intense) and a smooth texture overall. It’s not quite as dense as the frostier shades in the palette. theBalm Woman, Woman is more frosted and golden but still similar. Urban Decay Bender is closer in color but still has a different finish.

In the middle, we have a warm copper with a golden sheen and frosted, metallic finish. It’s fairly smooth but a little powdery, but the color payoff is really nice. It’s lighter than the coppery shade from Dreamy. It’s similar enough to shades like Urban Decay Half Baked, theBalm Manic Maribel, Bare Escentuals Louder, and so on.

On the right, there’s a springy, pastel green with a hint of mintiness and subtle yellowy undertones. The finish is more frosted, and the pigmentation is decent but not excellent.

The last shade on the bottom is a deep, dark brown with a sprinkling of bronze shimmer. The base color is nearly matte, so this shade will take on more of a matte quality, especially when applied with a fluffier brush. It is similar to the brown shade from Dreamy, actually, though a little less red-toned, as is Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone.

Overall, it’s a good palette, though there’s room for improvement. The “worst” performing shade was the pastel green, which could have used a boost in pigmentation, but the textures were good across the board. Like some of the other palettes, it has a more dupeable feel, so whether it’s worth a peek really depends on what shades you already have in your stash. When I trialed this palette without a primer, it wore for about eight hours without creasing but had minor creasing after ten hours; I had no issues with creasing when used with a primer.

The Glossover

palette

Wonderful

A-

If you like your greens and browns, you may like this palette. It has a very earth-tones vibe to me, and while it's definitely warm-toned, it doesn't read too warm for cooler complexions, which is nice.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2011

MAC Interior Life Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Interior Life Eyeshadow Quad

MAC for Daphne Guinness: Interior Life Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Interior Life Eyeshadow Quad ($38.00 for 0.20 oz.) includes these four shades: Stratus (light pink), Bruised Sky (dark lavender gray), Interior Life (mid-tone gray blue), and Heather Belles (dark charcoal/carbon).  It’s new and limited edition for MAC for Daphne Guinness, which will launch in-stores on December 26th.

  • Stratus is a pale iced pink with a matte finish. I couldn’t get this product to swatch at all–I literally took a metal spatula to the pan and gouged product out to just get enough visible color in the swatch so you could see it. The swatch you see is the equivalent of swatching something five times, if not more! I later tried to apply this to the lid–over primer–and it was invisible. Maybe on the lightest and on the darkest of skin tones this will show up better, but the texture is still unforgivably dry and difficult to use. MAC Taupeless is a little warmer and shimmery. MAC Seedy Pearl is shimmery but similar in hue. Inglot 319 is more blue-based.
  • Bruised Sky is a mauve-brown with a satin finish. This shade was a little dry, but it yielded decent color payoff. Wet ‘n’ Wild We’re Blasting Off has a more shimmery version of this shade. It’s similar to MAC Tendersmoke. MAC Shale is much browner.
  • Interior Life is a blue-tinted medium-dark gray with a veluxe finish, which means it has a mostly matte finish but the texture is different from their matte finish. This is one of the best matte eyeshadows I’ve come across by MAC, and ironically, there are only two veluxe finishes available in the permanent range (Samoa Silk and Brown Down). This feels much more like a Matte2 than a veluxe–it’s so dense and buttery that’s nearly creamy in feel. The color payoff is really good, too, though it does easily blend away so go easy on blending.  I don’t want to say this, but this fades a lot when applied.  It was half faded after five hours.  It’s a matte version of MAC Howzat. Chanel Gris Exquis is more neutral.
  • Heather Belles is a charcoal black with a satin finish. The good news is this shade is the same as it was when it launched with Tartan Tale; the bad news is that it’s still just as terrible. I got a little smarter with this shade, so I managed to scrape product off and apply it to the middle but left some parts still in their original, disappointing state. It’s sheer, dry, and nearly chalky because of how dry and stiff it is. Nehru is a little blue/teal. It’s a bit like theBalm Serious. It ended up looking a lot like MAC Black Tied, since neither works well. I tried applying this to the crease, but it just wasn’t applying or blending well, so I ended up using Nebula (pigment) instead.

I’ve been underwhelmed by MAC’s eyeshadow quads for quite awhile now, and I had some hope after Cindy Sherman, Interior Life really disappointed. Many brands come out with quads and palettes, and there are few high-end brands that seem to flop as spectacularly as MAC has in the past year when it comes to their quads/palettes. MAC can do an excellent eyeshadow, so I don’t know why this doesn’t translate into their eyeshadow quads any more.

The Glossover

palette

Interior Life

F
There are too many problems with this eyeshadow quad: poor pigmentation, drier/stiffer textures, and fading. At $38, there are so many better options out there. Build your own MAC quad of proven eyeshadows!

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

6/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Tuesday, December 6th, 2011

Guerlain Les Aquas Eyeshadow Palette
Guerlain Les Aquas Eyeshadow Palette

Guerlain Les Aquas Eyeshadow Palette

Guerlain Les Aquas Eyeshadow Palette ($59.00 for 0.25 oz.) is an upcoming new and permanent quad that features an “iridescent blue, matte navy, velvety turquoise, and glacier metallic blue.” This is one of the better eyeshadow quads I’ve tested from Guerlain since they reformulated and relaunched their eyeshadow range, so it was a welcome surprise. The pigmentation is good across the board, and it applies easily. I did find that without a primer, there was some fading after eight hours, but over a primer, it was fine.

The left most shade is a semi-matte, dark teal-blue with a grayish overcast and sparse teal shimmer. The base color is more matte, but there is definitely some sparkle to the shade. It has good color payoff, though the texture feels a little dry. Illamasqua Android seemed similar, though it is much more metallic and frosted. It has a similar base color to MAC Blue Spruce but doesn’t have the copper sparkle.

In the center, the top shade is a aqua teal with an iridescent gold shimmer-sheen. It does flash more golden depending on the angle. The color payoff of this shade was really nice, and the texture was silky soft and applied smoothly. Milani Caribbean Sea is similar but has less golden shimmer. Make Up For Ever #83 is much more intense. theBalm Open to Offers Olwen is darker. Inglot #415 is more vibrant.

Below that shade is a medium-dark bold blue with a soft, metallic shimmer-sheen. The pigmentation is excellent, and the texture feels soft to the touch and smooths out easily. I find Guerlain’s more frosted shades to have the best color payoff and feel compared to some of their mattes, satins, etc. MAC Pure Creation is a touch lighter. MAC Deep Truth is a bit darker. MAC Freshwater is comparable. Inglot #426 is also similar.

The right most shade is a bright, metallic silver. Of all the shades in the palette, it had the weakest color payoff–there was some underlying sheerness but it felt smooth to the touch. IT is similar to MAC Misty and Bobbi Brown Iced Blue.

The palette initially bears resemblance to Les Ombres de Nuit, but this is a brighter, warmer palette. None of the shades actually overlap in terms of color, but here, we have a vibrant aqua teal instead of a muted grayish teal; vibrant medium-dark blue instead of a navy blue; the other two shades are not similar.

The Glossover

palette

Les Aquas

A-
The color combination works together, though if you're not a fan of blues, you may find this palette too bold! You don't see too many bright colored palettes by high-end/designer brands, so I definitely appreciate Guerlain going out of the box with this color scheme.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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