Sunday, May 5th, 2013

Le Metier de Beaute Femme Fatale Kaleidoscope
Le Metier de Beaute Femme Fatale Kaleidoscope

Le Metier de Beaute Femme Fatale Kaleidoscope ($95.00 for 0.56 oz.) includes four shades: Oyster (satin shimmer dust), Sapphire (midnight blue with jewel tones), Autumn Rust (deep and rustic topaz), and Matte Plum (bodacious, bright purple).

Per readers’ requests, I’m posting this quick post that features photos and swatches of the Kaleidoscope, but I’m not writing a full review unless it is re-released and becomes available again :) I will say it is up to par with Le Metier de Beaute’s eyeshadow quality and what I’ve experienced in the past, so you can read previous reviews here. All of the swatches have been put into the Swatch Gallery, so you can compare and look for similar shades based on what interests you!

  • Oyster is a cool-toned, almost pewter-gray with a hint of beige-champagne shimmer. ISuper complex; looks different all the time. Compare here in the Swatch Gallery.
  • Sapphire is a copper and violet-shimmered navy blue with purplish edging. Another complex shade. Best applied wet–a little drier than other shades I’ve tried. Compare here in the Swatch Gallery.
  • Autumn Rust is a medium-dark golden brown with a frosted finish. Compare here in the Swatch Gallery.
  • Matte Plum is a medium-dark red-toned purple with a satiny finish (doesn’t look matte to me). Compare here in the Swatch Gallery.

Also, since we’re on the subject of Le Metier de Beaute… They’ll be doing online auctions starting tonight on their website featuring last-of-a-kind in their Kaleidoscopes for the next six days that are paired with gifts from partners (like Oscar de la Renta, GlossyBox, etc.) to benefit ALS Awareness Month and the ALS Association. 100% (!!) of the proceeds earned from the auctions will go the ALS Association, and Le Metier de Beaute will be donating 10% to the ALS Association for every sale made on their website between 5/5 and 5/12. And then, anyone who donates $100+ through the ALSA.org Le Metier de Beaute Tribute Fund Page, Le Metier de Beaute will send a thank you package of beauty goodies.

What is ALS? The Facts

  • Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis is a progressive neurodegenerative disease that attacks nerve cells in the brain and spinal cord resulting in muscle weakness and atrophy.
  • Upon diagnosis, the life expectancy of an ALS patient ranges from 2 to 5 years.
  • Only 10% will survive more than 10 years
  • For the vast majority, their mind and thoughts are not impaired and remain sharp despite the progressive degenerating condition of the body.
  • ALS can strike anyone. There is currently no cure.

The Glossover

palette

Femme Fatale

A
The palette was up-to-par with Le Metier de Beaute's eyeshadow range except for Sapphire, which was a little dry in texture and needed to be applied wet to achieve really smooth, intense color.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2013

MAC Temperature Rising Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Temperature Rising Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Temperature Rising Eyeshadow Quad ($44.00 for 0.19 oz.) includes these shades: Performance Art (frosted gold mauve, Veluxe Pearl)), Temperature Rising (light warm tanned peach, Lustre), Swelter (mid-tone grey violet, Frost), and Beautymarked (charcoal black with red pearl, Velvet). Beautymarked is part of the permanent range. The quad will be available online on May 16th and in-stores May 23rd (of course, it usually is online earlier than the stated date). It is packaged in a matte bronze with a rubbery texture–if you’re familiar with NARS’ packaging, it’s very much like that, only bronze in color.

Performance Art is is a pinky mauve with a dusting of very fine gold shimmer. It had good color payoff and applied smooth overall, though it was a smidgen dry. MAC Smoky Mauve is purpler and darker. Jasmine Carpet is darker and purpler. Tarte Frozen Hot Chocolate is slightly darker. NARS 413 BLKR #1 appears cooler-toned. Wet ‘n’ Wild We’re Blasting Off #3 is cooler-toned.

Temperature Rising is copper-shimmered peach with a soft, frosted sheen. It was very stiff to work with, and it really needed to be layered and packed on to get visible, even color both swatched and on the eye. Estee Lauder Pink Zinc is lighter (and a cream product). Chanel Complice is lighter. MAC Seaside is more coppery. Chanel Emerveille is a cream product and is less coppery. MAC Expensive Pink is pinker, darker.

Swelter is a muted, medium-dark purple with subtle red undertones and a satiny sheen. It had decent to good color payoff, but it was a little stiff to work with. When I jabbed at it with a stiffer brush, I was able to get better color payoff. MAC Smoky Mauve is more frosted. Jasmine Carpet is very similar. NARS 413 BLKR #1 is grayer, cooler-toned. MAC Circa Plum is extremely similar.

Beautymarked is a blackened brown with burgundy and copper micro-shimmer. It was dry, somewhat chalky, and generally stiff and difficult to blend. Applied, it looks mostly like a matte black, but if you mix it or blend it with Swelter, you can bring out more of the shimmer in Beautymarked. Giorgio Armani #2 is similar in concept but has a much more pronounced shimmer/sparkle. L’Oreal Smoldering Plum is purpler. MAC Young Punk has more purple shimmer.

The real miss here was Beautymarked, which had a rather undesirable texture that made it a problematic shade to use. It’s also the kind of shade that looks incredibly complex in the pan but when used, it can be difficult to pull out those nuances and see the complexities. Performance Art was the best eyeshadow in this quad, because it had good pigmentation and a softer, smoother texture and application. Temperature Rising needs to be packed on for a smooth, even application. I wish it performed better overall, because the color combination works well together and would flatter a variety of skin tones. The eyeshadows did wear for eight hours with no creasing and only very minor fading with minor fading occurring after nine hours.

The Glossover

palette

Temperature Rising

B
I wish it performed better overall, because the color combination works well together and would flatter a variety of skin tones.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Tuesday, April 30th, 2013

MAC Bare My Soul Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Bare My Soul Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Bare My Soul Eyeshadow Quad ($44.00 for 0.19 oz.) includes these shades: Romantico (light taupe bronze, Veluxe Pearl), Bare My Soul (frosted gold, Lustre), Friendly (deep bronze chocolate, Veluxe Pearl), and When in Rio (deep green with copper pearl, Frost). The quad will be available online on May 16th and in-stores May 23rd (of course, it usually is online earlier than the stated date). It is packaged in a matte bronze with a rubbery texture–if you’re familiar with NARS’ packaging, it’s very much like that, only bronze in color.

Romantico is a soft, medium-dark bown with a frosted finish and subtly warm, reddish undertones. It had nice color payoff and applied smoothly. Giorgio Armani Summer 2013 Eyeshadow #3 is warmer. Too Faced Hot Cocoa is lighter. NARS Flowers 3 is warmer. Milani Caramel Brown has a more metallic finish. MAC Buckwheat is darker. MAC Lie Low is more orange. MAC Sable is darker.

Bare My Soul is a gold-shimmered coppery brown with warm undertones and a frosted finish. It had good color payoff and applied smoothly when I used it on the lid. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning #2 is very similar. Guerlain Calligraphy Eye & Lip #2 is slightly darker. Urban Decay Penny Lane is darker. Le Metier de Beaute Goldstone is more golden, brighter. bareMinerals Golden Iris has more of a satiny sheen.

Friendly is a rich, chocolatly brown with subtly warm undertones and a frosted sheen. It had fantastic color payoff, and it applied incredibly smoothly, too. Inglot #421 is slightly more coppery. Laura Mercier Cedar is more matte. MAC Make Your Mark is not quite as intense. MAC Mulch is redder.

When in Rio is a deep, red-brown base with a greenish-teal sheen. It had good color payoff when layered, but it was a little on the drier side and slightly stiff when I tried blending it out on the lid. It’s workable, but it’s not as nice as Romantico or Friendly. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone #8 has a much redder base. bareMinerals Mirage is browner. MAC Double Feature #5 #2 is similar in design but much redder in practice. Tarte Exquisite Emerlad is similar though not as intense. MAC Woodsmoke is bluer. Inglot #414 is greener. MAC Club would also be similar, though I think the duochrome is not quite as obvious (and also Blue Brown pigment).

Initially, it reminded me of the Burmese Beauty quad from a few years ago, but they’re definitely not one-for-one. Burmese Beauty had a more golden, rather than copper-toned, shade, but it did have a similarly duochrome blue-brown shade (Burmese Beauty). The other two eyeshadows are not similar to the other two found in this quad.

I liked the quad overall, but at this price point, I really wish When in Rio was softer, more pigmented, and more blendable.  In the world of MAC eyeshadow quads, this is certainly one of the better ones in the past few years.  I wore all four eyeshadows together yesterday, and I didn’t have any issues with creasing or fading after nine hours of wear (no primer).

The Glossover

palette

Bare My Soul

A-

I liked the quad overall, but at this price point, I really wish When in Rio was softer, more pigmented, and more blendable. In the world of MAC eyeshadow quads, this is certainly one of the better ones in the past few years.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Saturday, April 27th, 2013

Dior Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow Palette
Dior Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow Palette

Dior Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow Palette ($60.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a mix of summery shades that certainly bring to mind the colors of a lagoon as it is filled with blue, green, and teal. It contains five eyeshadows housed within a plastic compact with two dual-end sponge-tip applicators and a full-size mirror inside.

Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow #1 is a light-medium, pastel sky blue with a satin finish. It had so-so color payoff, and because of its pastel nature, it looked almost chalky against my skin tone–when paired with the deeper tones in the palette, it worked better. Giorgio Armani Swimming Pool Turquoise is darker. Dior Swimming Pool #3 is a touch darker but similar. NYX Cool Blue is darker. MAC Styledriven is extremely similar in color but slightly more satiny. bareMinerals Illusion is lighter.

Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow #2 is a pale, iridescent pastel sea foam green. It’s really rather translucent and sheer; it seemed more like something you’d apply over another shade to add iridescence. Giorgio Armani #10 seemed similar but much more intense/opaque.

Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow #3 is a depened, smoky blue with cool undertones and a satin finish. It had good pigmentation, and it applied smoothly. theBalm Bossy Bobbi is a touch darker. MAC Bold Babe is very comparable. MAC Parisian Skies is bluer. MAC Pre-packaged is deeper, richer. Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl #1 is darker. Urban Decay Unhinged is lighter.

Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow #4 is a gold-shimmered, dusty blue with a hint of aqua/green and a frost finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was incredibly soft and silky. L’Oreal Endless Sea is a bit darker but similar. MAC Sky is very comparable. Urban Decay Aquarius is more frosted.

Blue Lagoon (374) Eyeshadow #5 is a pale, pastel yellow-green with a frosted finish. It looks like a mint green in the pan, but swatched and applied, it is much lighter and more like a yellow-green tinted white. It had good pigmentation, and it applied very smoothly. Fyrinnae Jade Ghost and MAC Zestful are both similar but more intense. Lancome Fashion Forward is a bit greener.

You know me, I’m a total glutton for all things teal and tropically-inspired, so when I first saw this quad, I was like, “Oh yeah!” It yielded a much softer look when used than it looked in the pan.  It didn’t look like it was going to be neon brights, but everything was more muted applied.  Two of the eyeshadows (#2 and #5) applied significantly more white-based than they looked in the pan, so they lost some of their differentiation and actual color.

The worst performer was the first eyeshadow (light blue), because it was a little powdery, didn’t apply evenly, and didn’t have great color payoff.  The best performer was #3 (dark blue) in the center, as it had good color payoff and blended out evenly.  I also liked #4 (dusty aqua/teal), but it was a little powdery. Though all of the eyeshadows had soft, silky textures, the palette on the whole was somewhat powdery and missed on the pigmentation.  I had some slight fading after eight hours of wear. For someone who doesn’t like the idea of bright blues, this might be a nice option, but for someone who really wanted the colors as seen in the pan, I think you’ll be disappointed.

The Glossover

palette

Blue Lagoon (374)

C+
For someone who doesn't like the idea of bright blues, this might be a nice option, but for someone who really wanted the colors as seen in the pan, I think you'll be disappointed.

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, April 25th, 2013

MAC Rimal Dahabia Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Rimal Dahabia Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Rimal Dahabia Eyeshadow Quad ($40.00 for 0.21 oz.) contains these shades: Shroom (soft beige with shimmer), Soft Brown (soft golden peachy brown), Beautyburst (rich reddish brown), and Najm el Lail (blackened deep brown). Shroom and Soft Brown are permanent, while Beautyburst came out with Barbie Loves MAC in 2007.

Shroom is soft, light beige with a hint of warmth and a lightly frosted finish (though it’s officially a satin). It’s soft, smooth, and easy to blend out. It also has lovely color payoff. This used to be a go-to brow bone highlighter for me, because it wasn’t too stark or too cool/warm. Make Up For Ever #126 is darker, slightly shimmery. Urban Decay Anonymous is more matte and less beige. Cinderella A Wish is more matte. Giorgio Armani #1 Madreperla #1 is similar, but a touch more frosted. Urban Decay Skimp is a touch warmer and more shimmery. bareMinerals Serendipitous is very similar. MAC Brule is matte.

Soft Brown is a light-medium brown with warm, subtly red undertones and a matte finish. It is soft, silky-smooth, and nicely pigmented. It’s a great go-to neutral for outer lid and crease work on many skin tones, and then it can work as an all-over lid shade on darker complexions, too. MAC Exposed is darker and redder. MAC Body Conscious is more orange. MAC Glimpse of Flesh is shimmery and lighter. MAC Indie Spirit is a bit darker.

Beautyburst is a warm-toned, reddened, medium-dark brown with a matte finish (though it is listed as a satin). It had good color payoff, and the texture was soft and smooth. It blended nicely on the lid when I applied it. MAC Deep Fixation is more orange and more shimmery. Guerlain Les Fauves #2 is a touch lighter. MAC Brown Script is a bit darker and browner. theBalm Racy Kacy is warmer and shimmery.

Najm el Lail is a blackened brown with a matte finish. The swatch tells the majority of the story: dry, patchy, so-so color payoff. It’s not as easy to blend as a softer eyeshadow, as it tends to stick and be stubborn about softening along the edges. Too Faced Licorice is grayer/blacker. Dior Night Golds #3 is shimmery. MAC Bad Lieutenant is very similar. theBalm Matt Ramirez is also rather similar but has a slightly redder base. MAC Diamond Dove is similar. Tarina Tarantino Wonderful is slightly browner. MAC Brun is a bit lighter and cooler-toned. MAC Midnight Flurry is also similar. MAC Legendary Black is darker, grayer. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone has a satin finish.

Three of the four are good or better (and two of the three are great), while the one shade that dropped the ball was Najm el Lail. I’m not sure why MAC seems to have issues with making a soft, buttery black-brown eyeshadow–above, you’ll see I noted several limited edition black-brown shades (mostly found in quads) from MAC over the years and they all have the same issues (dry, stiff).  Like the other quad, I’m testing the wear of these today and will update this post with that information later this afternoon. Based on the textures/payoffs/finishes, I’ve given it a longevity grade based off of years of testing MAC eyeshadows.

Just to do a little math, since the palette contains two permanent shades, here’s how the value works out to be: 1) pan eyeshadows cost $12 each (so $48 in eyeshadows), and the 2) the price of the quad is $9. So, if you purchase everything individually, you would be spending $57–compared to $40 to purchase a pre-made quad (in standard packaging), which means you pay $17 for choice. If you already have a palette to put them in, then you might consider the cost of choice $8. I find this is helpful to put it into perspective, though as a long-time MAC collector, I completely understand when you remember paying $34 for quads!  On the other hand, at $40, I really think it should be fantastic–there are too many $30-50 palettes on the market that are standouts these days.

The Glossover

palette

Rimal Dahabia

B+
Three of the four shades are good or better, but Najm el Lail is a let-down! It was so stiff and dry, which made it hard to get good color payoff as well as made blending rather difficult.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Thursday, April 25th, 2013

MAC Masat al Lail Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Masat al Lail Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Masat al Lail Eyeshadow Quad ($40.00 for 0.21 oz.) contains these shades: Rondelle (platinum silver frost), Waft (deep navy with pearl), Gentle Fume (dirty concrete grey with silver pearl), and Carbon (intense black). Long-time MAC collectors may remember this composition, as it was originally launched in Smoke Signals (2007) as the Gentle Fume quad.

Rondelle is a gray-tinged white with a frosted finish. It had decent to good color payoff, but it was a little dusty, though I was able to get it to apply smoothly for the most part. Tarte Silver Burst is brighter, whiter. Guerlain Les Aquas #4 is more metallic. Bobbi Brown Iced Blue is cooler-toned.

Waft is a dark, bluish-gray with a subtle, frosted finish. The texture is rather dry, which is why this shade looks a bit patchy (and it does look dry, too) when swatched. It has so-so color payoff, but it was buildable and when used with a soft, fluffier brush, it did seem to apply better and more smoothly. theBalm Matt McDonald is very similar. MAC Warm Thunder is more metallic. Tarina Tarantino DIamond DUsk is more metallic, lighter. MAC Weathered is bluer.

Gentle Fume is a medium-dark matte gray base with silver sparkle. The silver sparkle doesn’t adhere or bind with the base color very well, so it flakes and disappears the moment you go to blend out the color. If you want any sparkle to survive, pat the color on, and then leave it alone. There will be fall out during the day, though. MAC Fabulous Fit doesn’t have the sparkle and is a touch lighter. MAC Silver Gull is much lighter. NARS Delphes #2 is close to the base color but doesn’t have the silver sparkle. Chanel Gris Exquis is a darker gray with no silver sparkle.

Carbon is a medium-dark black with a matte finish. It is part of the permanent range, and it varies in its dryness. This isn’t the worst iteration I’ve seen of it, but it’s certainly not the best and is by no means a favorite of mine to use. The beauty world can do better black eyeshadows now, so Carbon could use a reformulation to put it on par with current black eyeshadows. It’s just so dry and stiff, so the color payoff is sheerer and patchy–even applied on the lid, it can be a pain to blend out. You can find numerous black eyeshadows that compare to this (in terms of color).

It is a cool-toned, silver-and-gray smoky eye palette.  Over the years, I’ve grown frustrated with Carbon, so the inclusion of it in the quad is tiresome, as it is so often released in quads and palettes, so you very likely have one already (and it’s just not a great quality eyeshadow to begin with, so why have doubles or triples of it?).  I think the color of Waft is the most interesting, but it turns out that Weathered ends up looking more nuanced on the lid because it is bluer.  I wish the silver sparkle stuck to Gentle Fume, because then it would be something harder to dupe or find, but it just disappears and gets everywhere else.  Rondelle is the best performing shade in the palette.  I’m going to be wearing this quad for wear today, so I’ll report back with the results this afternoon–based on my experience with MAC’s drier/sheerer shades, I don’t get great wear (between seven and eight hours, some fading), I’ve assessed a rating but if it is better/worse, I’ll be sure to let you know.

The Glossover

palette

Masat al Lail

C
The quad just requires too much work. I think that eyeshadows have significantly improved over the past five years, and I feel like these are too dry and stiff and lack color payoff.

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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