Thursday, May 30th, 2013

MAC Rainy Season Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Rainy Season Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Rainy Season Eyeshadow Quad ($40.00 for 0.21 oz.) includes these four shades: Arctic Grey (frosted mid-tone gray, Lustre), Courtly Grey (matte cool gray, Matte), Typographic (asphalt black, Matte2), and Rainy Season (light warm gray frost, Satin).  This quad is, for as gray and smoky as it is, more neutral than it is cool or warm-toned.  I think on cooler complexions, it will turn cooler-toned, but on my warmer complexion, it looked slightly warm-toned overall when applied to the lid.  I wore all four shades together, and they lasted fairly well over an eight-hour period–I had some minor (but not as bad as expected) fall out from Arctic Grey but didn’t have any issues with the shades fading.

Rainy Season is a subtly, warmed-up, pale gray-beige with a satiny finish. The texture was slightly powder, but it had fairly good color payoff. I didn’t have to pack it on to get it to show up on my lid, but it is the kind of the shade that can get lost on lighter complexions. Urban Decay Midnight 15 is more shimmery, as is Urban Decay Verve, which is also darker. Urban Decay Polyester Bride is lighter. MAC Vex has a duochrome, but at certain angles, they are somewhat similar. Giorgio Armani #1 Spring 2012 #4 is more golden and shimmery. Giorgio Armani #19 is more shimmery and warmer. bareMinerals Daydream is more beige. bareMinerals Suspense is darker. See comparison swatches.

Arctic Grey is a frosted, beige-gray with more beige than gray. It is a more golden and shimmery version of Rainy Season really. It had decent pigmentation, but it has a Lustre finish, so it also has larger sparkles that were prone to becoming fall out during application as well as during wear. Giorgio Armani #1 Spring 2012 #4 is more metallic. Giorgio Armani #19 is lighter, more metallic. MAC Vex is grayer. See comparison swatches.

Courtly Grey is a medium, neutral gray with a matte finish. The texture is somewhat powdery, and the color payoff is so-so–it sheers out easily, so it needs to be patted and packed on for best results. You’ll want to avoid blending it too much, because then it looks really faded. NARS Delphes #2 is darker. MAC Gentle Fume is darker and has sparkle. MAC Fabulous Fit is slightly darker. MAC All Woman is somewhat darker. Giorgio Armani Moonlight White #3 is darker and more shimmery. Bobbi Brown Sterling is a bit lighter and shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Typographic is a gray-black with a matte finish. It has a very soft, silky texture that can be a little powdery but doesn’t look it once applied. It’s not quite a black, but it’s a very dark gray so it can look like a faded or softened black at times. theBalm Serious is darker. Milani Pitch Black is blacker. MAC Gravel is warmer. MAC Heather Belles is a smidgen lighter. Guerlain Les Gris #1 is a touch lighter. Estee Lauder Black Chrome #2 is shimmery. Chanel Premier Regard #4 is a bit darker. bareMinerals Amnesia is slightly grayer. bareMinerals Lights Down is darker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Rainy Season

B

I wore all four shades together, and they lasted fairly well over an eight-hour period--I had some minor (but not as bad as expected) fall out from Arctic Grey but didn't have any issues with the shades fading.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Rainy Season

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Arctic Grey

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, May 27th, 2013

Illamasqua Paranormal Eyeshadow Palette
Illamasqua Paranormal Eyeshadow Palette

Illamasqua Paranormal Eyeshadow Palette ($46.50 for 0.20 oz.) is supposed to have four waterproof eyeshadows that “[feel] like a cream” but “[delivers] waterproof washes of color with long-lasting hold.” The formula feels like a hybrid between a mousse and cream, and then it somewhat dries down to a powder finish, but I did experience noticeable creasing across all four shades by the eighth hour of wear. They didn’t start smudging the minute water hit them, but if you rub, they do move somewhat. The texture did make it ease to blend these shades across the lid, both with each other and across the skin for an even layer of color. I was able to build to semi-opaque to mostly opaque color coverage, but none of the four shades were totally opaque.

Paranormal is a warm-toned, coral-pink with pink and gold shimmer. It had good color payoff and went on smoothly. MAC Gameela is similar in color but is matte and a powder eyeshadow. Sugarpill Decora is not as coral/warm-toned and is a loose powder. See comparison swatches.

Aura is a copper-shimmered, medium-dark orange. It had good pigmentation and blended out smoothly. MAC Magnetic Attraction is pinker, less orange. MAC Body Conscious is browner. MAC Ablaze has no shimmer and is a powder product. Guerlain Terra Azzurra #3 is slightly pinker and a powder eyeshadow. Make Up For Ever #5 is lighter and matte. See comparison swatches.

Possession is a yellowy green with cool-toned emerald green shimmer. The color payoff was so-so, but it applied evenly overall. It’s an interesting color because the base is warm-toned but the shimmer makes it appear more cool-toned. MAC Swimming is warmer. MAC Wondergrass is rather similar but a powder product. MAC Hajar Karim is darker and matte. MAC Feeling Fresh is cooler-toned. Illamasqua Fledgling is matte, darker, and cooler-toned. OCC Foxfire is not as yellow-toned. Sugarpill Tipsy is more intense. Make Up For Ever #91 is similar but matte.
See comparison swatches.

Trance is a medium-dark purple with cool, pink undertones and a fine silver and purple shimmer. It had so-so pigmentation but applied smoothly and was easy to blend. Urban Decay Omen is a bit cooler-toned, less pink. Sugarpill Hysteric is more metallic and pinker. Inglot #441 is brighter. L’Oreal With a Twist is lighter, more metallic. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Paranormal

C+

The biggest drawback was that all of them were prone to creasing, and I would describe them more as water-resistant than waterproof. They didn't have true-to-pan, opaque color payoff, which was the other issue.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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LE
product

Paranormal

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Aura

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Saturday, May 25th, 2013

Giorgio Armani Fatal (12) Eyes to Kill Palette
Giorgio Armani Fatal (12) Eyes to Kill Palette

Giorgio Armani Fatal (12) Eyes to Kill Palette ($59.00 for 0.0.21 oz.) consists of four shades is part of the Shimmer palette series.  The quad is supposed to contain “iridescent, eye-catching colors with electric shine and shimmer.”  Something I’ve noticed with Giorgio Armani palette is that they always come together better on the lid and applied than they initially seem just swatched.  The texture has something to do with that, I imagine, as they’re very soft and velvety–easy to blend and work well together. When I wore the palette together, the shades lasted well for eight hours but had slight fading that was noticeable after nine hours.

Fatal #1 is a cool-toned, plummy brown with a pearly finish. It had good color payoff, but it could have been a bit more pigmented for really true-to-pan intensity. theBalm Just This Once Jamie is a little lighter. Urban Decay Stray Dog is browner. MAC Universal Appeal is more plum. MAC Daylight is lighter. Chanel Raffinement #1 is darker, browner. See comparison swatches.

Fatal #2 is a pale, cool-toned pink-tinted white with a pearled finish. It was semi-sheer and slightly powdery. There is no shortage of similar shades to this. Shades like Tom Ford Enchanted #1, MAC Fresh & Mint #2, MAC Fresh Ice, Dior Garden Pastels #3 are all slightly cooler-toned, more lavender than pink. Then shades like NARS Douce France #1 (matte), MAC Stratus (darker), MAC Let’s Skate (cream), MAC Seedy Pearl, MAC Radial Pink (lighter), MAC Maribu (more frosted), and Dior Aurora #3 are all close. See comparison swatches.

Fatal #3 is a soft, medium-dark lavender purple with gold shimmer. It had good color payoff and applied smoothly to the lid. This almost appears warm-toned, which isn’t common to see in a lavender. Urban Decay Tainted is pinker. Urban Decay Grifter is more frosted. Giorgio Armani #1 Spring 2013 #1 is lighter, cooler-toned. Benefit Fancy Pansy is cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Fatal #4 is a dark, cool-toned purple with a nearly matte finish. It had good pigmentation but was a bit powdery. The shade blended out easily, though, as a result. theBalm Lavish Latoya is more frosted, less purple. Urban Decay Gravity is more shimmery. NARS High Society #3 isn’t as cool-toned. MAC Dynamic Duo #4 #12 is darker, less purple.  MAC Drawn to Drama is cooler-toned. MAC Ron Ron Run is slightly darker. L’Oreal Perpetual Purple is more shimmery. Giorgio Armani Green Jacquard #4 isn’t as cool-toned. See comparison swatches here.

The Glossover

P
palette

Fatal (12)

A-
Something I've noticed with Giorgio Armani palette is that they always come together better on the lid and applied than they initially seem just swatched. The texture has something to do with that, I imagine, as they're very soft and velvety--easy to blend and work well together.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

Fatal #1

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Fatal #2

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, May 24th, 2013

NARS Hearts New York Set
NARS Hearts New York Set

NARS Hearts New York Set ($75.00) includes Amour (peachy pink), Laguna (diffused brown powder with golden shimmer), Biarritz (perfect, neutral cream colored beige), Nepal (soft, sheer rose), New York (plum brown), Galapagos (bitter chocolate infused with gold), Dolce Vita (sheer, dusty rose), and Chinatown (blood red). It contains 0.17 oz. of blush, 0.15 oz. of bronzer, 0.12 oz. of eyeshadow, 0.284 fl. oz. of lipgloss, and 0.50 fl. oz. of nail polish. The shades chosen for the set are the city’s most popular shades; all of the shades are available individually and are part of the permanent range.

Amour Blush is a subtly warm-toned, medium pink with a matte finish. I reviewed this previously here. I didn’t notice any differences between the full-size version and the one included in the palette (and the one in the palette is actually bigger at 0.17 oz. compared to 0.16 oz. for the permanent shade).  Chanel Rose Initale is pinker. MAC Posey has a more luminous finish, as it is a cream blush. MAC Flaming Chic is lighter, pinker. MAC Fleet Fast is more coral. MAC Mocha is darker. theBalm Frat Boy is very similar. See comparison swatches.

Biarritz Eyeshadow is a pale beige with a matte finish and subtle, warm undertones. It had good color payoff, though it may be hard to see, given that it is very close to my natural skin color (so it disappears). There are a fair number of comparable shades to this one that you may already have. theBalm Adagio is very similar. Urban Decay Anonymous has a satiny sheen. Urban Decay Walk of Shame is not as warm-toned. MAC Vanilla is lighter, satiny. MAC Blanc Type is less beige. MAC Bisque is very similar. L’Oreal Endless Pearl is lighter, less warm-toned. Benefit Call My Bluff is warmer and satiny. Bobbi Brown Ivory is slightly lighter. See more comparison swatches.

Nepal Eyeshadow is a warm-toned, peachy tan with a pearly sheen. It had so-so to decent color payoff, but it was buildable on the lid to mostly opaque color coverage. The texture was soft but a bit powdery. theBalm Third Eye Blinded is more frosted, slightly pinker. MAC Bare Minimum is less shimmery. Benefit It’s Complicated has a golden sheen. bareMinerals Peace is similar. Inglot #397 is more reflective, so it appears lighter. See comparison swatches.

New York Eyeshadow is a warm, dark plum with a matte finish. It had so-so color payoff and was a bit powdery to work with, but it did build up color when applied to the lid. Make Up For Ever #141 is shimmery. NARS Grand Palais #2 is a touch warmer. MAC Festive Delight is darker, redder. MAC Trax is shimmery, slightly purpler. Lancome Colour du Jour has golden shimmer. Illamasqua Forgiveness is very similar–a smidgen more plum. Chanel Harmonie du Soir #3 is frosted. Make Up For Ever #39 is more intense and redder. See comparison swatches.

Galapagos Eyeshadow is a lightly warm-toned, yellow-toned, medium-dark brown with gold sparkle. It has good color payoff, and the sparkle somewhat translates to the lid but there is some minor fall out during wear. The texture was soft and blendable. Bobbi Brown Chocolate is a darker brown with less yellow in it. MAC Friendly is more frosted, darker. NARS Surabaya #2 is very similar, slightly warmer. MAC Lie Low is lighter. MAC Swiss Chocolate is similar in the base color, though slightly yellower in tone, but has no sparkle. MAC Roasted Chestnut is more metallic. Chanel Ebloui is redder and a cream product. Inglot #327 is very similar to the base color but is matte. See comparison swatches.

Laguna Bronzer is a medium-dark tan brown with warm, orange-yellow undertones and a golden shimmer-sheen finish. It had good color payoff with buildable, blendable color and a fairly soft texture. It applied well and didn’t emphasize pores. I felt like the permanent version was slightly better in color payoff and a silkier texture. It lasted eight hours well on me with light fading apparent after nine hours. Urban Decay Toasted is darker, browner. MAC Lush Light Bronze is warmer. MAC Refined Golden is browner, darker. MAC Soft Sand is slightly warmer, lighter. Burberry Summer Glow is more yellow-toned. See comparison swatches.

Dolce Vita Lip Gloss is a warm, rosy plum with a creamy finish. This is a color that always seems to appear more saturated/brighter in photos than it does in real life; it’s one of those tricky, hard-to-photograph shades. Though it is described as sheer, it’s rather opaque applied. It applies evenly and smoothly, but I did detect a rather plastic-like scent from the tube. NARS Oasis was the only shade that seemed somewhat similar, but it is less pink, sheerer, and has shimmer. See comparison swatches.

Chinatown Nail Lacquer is a darkened, brown-based red with a cream finish. It was mostly opaque, but at certain angles in brighter light, there was a shadow of visible nail apparent. MAC Vintage Vamp is a bit darker. MAC Underfire is very similar. MAC Dangerously Fun is somewhat warmer. Chanel Rouge Fatal is similar. China Glaze Merry Berry is lighter, not as brown. See comparison swatches.

It’s a good palette overall, and it offers a good value for the amount and breadth of products you receive. It’s a more neutral palette, so it should be versatile and has a good amount of contrast for a variety of looks.

The Glossover

LE
palette

NARS Hearts New York Set

B+

It's a good palette overall, and it offers a good value for the amount and breadth of products you receive. It's a more neutral palette, so it should be versatile and has a good amount of contrast for a variety of looks.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Biarritz

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Nepal

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Thursday, May 9th, 2013

Dior Peacock (434) Eyeshadow Palette
Dior Peacock (434) Eyeshadow Palette

Dior Peacock (434) Eyeshadow Palette ($60.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a mix of warm, summery shades with a muted quality and earthy tones. It is new and limited edition this summer and contains five eyeshadows.

Peacock (434) Eyeshadow #1 is a light-medium green with warm, yellow undertones and a pearly sheen. It had good pigmentation and applied very smoothly. bareMinerals Wicked is slightly more frosted and less warm-toned. Buxom Shih Tzu is a cream eyeshadow and slightly darker. Dior Garden Pastels is darker. MAC Juxt is very comparable in color.

Peacock (434) Eyeshadow #2 is a pale, yellowy beige with a soft micro-shimmer. It is semi-sheer, so it tends to work best on fair skin or as a brow bone highlighter. MAC Dew is more frosted. MAC Dazzlelight is a touch lighter (it’s more pigmented, so it’s hard to tell).

Peacock (434) Eyeshadow #3 is a pale aqua-green that flashes to greenish yellow with a golden sheen. It looks like a minty green in the pan, but it is much yellower swatched. It had good pigmentation and applied smoothly. Dior Blue Lagoon #5 is similar. Too Faced Fantasy Island #2 is slightly darker.

Peacock (434) Eyeshadow #4 is dirty blue with a hint of green/teal and a satiny sheen. It had so-so color payoff but appeared more muted swatched and applied than it did in the pan. Chanel Metamorphose #1 is brighter, lighter. bareMinerals Editor’s Pick is bluer, much darker. Tom Ford Emerald Lust #2 is more teal-hued.

Peacock (434) Eyeshadow #5 is a pale yellow-green with a satin sheen. It had good pigmentation, and while it applied smoothly and evenly, it was somewhat powdery. It can be quick to sheer out if you blend it, so blend around the edges and pat the product on initially to minimize excess powder fall out and diffusing the color too much. Chanel Metamorphose #3 is darker. MAC Juxt is greener. Inglot #364 is matte.

It’s a decent to good palette, but it didn’t wow me.  The beige eyeshadow was rather sheer, while the center shade had more color payoff but wasn’t opaque.   The darkest shade in the palette was just so-so in pigmentation as well.  The remaining two eyeshadows were better.   Unfortunately, the texture of the palette, overall, was powdery, so I did see issues with the colors fading after seven to eight hours in a noticeable capacity.  There is also some fall out during application that makes this a palette better applied prior to base makeup, just so clean up easier.

The Glossover

palette

Peacock (434)

B
It's a decent to good palette, but it didn't wow me. Some of the eyeshadows were lacking in pigmentation, and some were powdery, which led to fading while I wore the palette.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, May 6th, 2013

Chanel Metamorphose (44) Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Metamorphose (44) Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Metamorphose (44) Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad ($59.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a new and limited edition palette exclusive to Chanel.com from their summer collection. It features four shades of eyeshadows in varying finishes that can be “applied dry for subtle shading, or dampened for more intense colour, all with long-wearing results.” Outside of the U.S., this quad and its formula will be very familiar, while those within the U.S. will note that the shape, texture, and feel of the formula is different. This is, essentially, the baked formula, compared with the traditional power eyeshadow that we typically see in the quads here in the U.S.

Metamorphose (44) #1 is a medium-dark, cool-toned green with a hint of blue/teal and a frosted sheen. It had semi-sheer color payoff applied dry, and it was more opaque applied damp, but it could have applied more evenly and smoothly. Tom Ford Emerald Lust is a touch darker. MAC Sweet & Sour is greener. Dior Garden Pastels #5 is very slightly warmer/greener. Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm is cooler-toned.

Metamorphose (44) #2 is a cool-toned, green-tinged, pale gray. It looks more like a mint green in the pan, but it comes off rather grayish when I applied it. The color payoff is very sheer when used dry, and then it is decent to good in opacity when applied damp. Giorgio Armani #10 is more metallic. Dior Cruise is similar. is a bit darker (and a cream product).

Metamorphose (44) #3 is a lightly warmed-over yellowy-green with a frosted sheen. It was sheer to semi-sheer when applied dry, and it was more opaque when applied damp. Too Faced Fantasy Island #2 is more metallic but very close in color. bareMinerals Wicked is more intense, greener. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone #6 is much darker, greener. MAC Juxt is brighter and much warmer. MAC Valiant is very similar.

Metamorphose (44) #4 is a deep navy blue with cool undertones and a satiny finish. It had decent pigmentation when applied dry, but it was much more intense when applied damp. Urban Decay Evidence is a more pearled sheen. MAC Naval Blue is more frosted. MAC Lunar is darker. bareMinerals Climax is more pearled. Guerlain Les Ombres de Nuit #3 is darker–more blackened. Make Up For Ever #81 is darker.

Generally, the baked eyeshadow quads are less intense and pigmented than the regular powder eyeshadow quads. To an extent, I would agree. These really have to used damp to see decent color payoff, as when they are applied dry, they are subtle and on the powdery side. From my own experiences, I tend to prefer the powder eyeshadows over baked ones as well for both blending, wear, and color payoff. Metamorphose had faded noticeably when I checked at the eight-hour mark.  The texture was always on the drier, powdery side, and when applied damp, it didn’t blend out as easily as Chane’s best eyeshadows do.

P.S. — 0.04 oz.? Ouchhh! I know that baked eyeshadows tend to weigh less, but whoa does that seem crazy small. They look like a normal-sized eyeshadow, all domed and the like, but the weight is (somewhat) concerning.

The Glossover

palette

Metamorphose (44)

B-
From my own experiences, I tend to prefer the powder eyeshadows over baked ones as well for both blending, wear, and color payoff. Metamorphose doesn't make a strong case for the baked formula.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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