Tuesday, February 25th, 2014

Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette
Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette

Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette ($30.00 for 0.49 oz.) is a new trio that features a bronzer, highlighter, and blush. It is a follow up to Naked Flushed. This one seems to [attempt to] match the blush to the colors of Native Lipstick and Native Lip Pencil, which are both light-medium pinks. I don’t think it’s a great match for either the lipstick or pencil, as it is distinctly cool-toned, whereas the lipstick is warm-toned and the pencil more neutral-to-warm-toned. To me, the color is a better match for Obsessed Lipstick. I didn’t like the original Naked Flushed palette, as I felt like the texture was firm and drier, but I didn’t love this one either, as it was powdery–makes me feel a bit like Goldilocks. Though you’ll see excess powder as you grab product onto your applicator, it doesn’t seem to look powdery on the skin, so that’s definitely a plus. It’s not ideal to have so much excess sitting on the surface of the pan when there are three shades that sit next to each other. The highlighter emphasizes pores/skin texture, which is a drawback. If used lightly, that effect can be lessened, but some care is required–it’s not foolproof.

Bronzer is described as a “medium bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, warm-toned brown with a satin finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was very soft and smooth, but it was powdery. When I applied it to cheeks, it was easy to do so–it blended easily, and it didn’t look powdery on. The bronzer wore well for eight hours before showing signs of fading. Urban Decay Naked Flushed Bronzer (P) is yellower. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is less shimmery, darker. Tarte Park Ave. Princess (P, $29.00) is more shimmery, yellower. MAC Love, Rihanna (LE, $25.00) is lighter. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is darker, more shimmery. MAC Lush Light Bronze (LE, $28.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Highlighter is described as a “pale pink shimmer.” It is a light, pink-tinged peach with light, warm undertones and a champagne shimmer-sheen. The finish is fairly frosted, and the pigmentation was really true-to-pan and rich, so a little of the highlighter goes a long way! I thought it applied best with feathery, sweeping motions and a less dense brush onto the high planes of the face. It did emphasize pores slightly, and it wore well for seven and a half hours before starting to look patchy. NARS Devotee (LE, $29.00) is very similar. MAC Sparkling Rose (LE) is darker, warmer. Urban Decay Glint (LE) is darker. Urban Decay Naked (P, $29.00) is lighter, more sparkly. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is pinker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Blush is described as a “bright pink.” It’s a brightened, light-medium pink with cool, blue undertones and a mostly matte finish. The texture was soft and finely-milled but powdery, so the color was somewhat buildable but easily sheered out as it was applied so I wouldn’t describe it as richly pigmented. This shade didn’t adhere as well to bare, normal-to-dry skin, but if you typically wear a liquid or cream foundation and apply over that, it should apply more readily. It wore well for seven hours on me before fading. NARS New Attitude (LE, $29.00) is warmer, darker. Milani Delizioso Pink (10) (P, $7.99) is darker. Givenchy It-Girl Purple (P, $44.00) is more shimmery, lighter. NARS Mistinguette (LE, $29.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Quickie (LE) is darker, brighter. theBalm Argyle (P, $22.00) is warmer. theBalm Down Boy (P, $21.00) is similar. MAC Peony Petal (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler-toned. MAC I’m the One (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

A word about names: there have been a few more recently released products with names that have stirred readers’ feelings. I want to reiterate that discussion is encouraged on Temptalia, and it is good to have open, honest, and civil conversations about things that are important to each of us. Please take great care in appreciating the diversity in opinions within the community without invalidating the other person’s feelings. While a name may not bother one person or someone interprets it differently than someone else, just because one person is not offended doesn’t mean that someone else shouldn’t be or can’t feel the way that they do. There are a million names to choose from, so if and when brands choose one over another, it’s okay to question that choice. You can read why the name of this product hasn’t been well-received by some readers here.

The Glossover

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palette

Native

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Bronzer

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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product

Highlighter

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014

Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad ($65.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “soft pink, violet-plum gray, golden beige, [and] luminous black.” These eyeshadows can be used wet or dry, depending on the level of intensity you’re looking to achieve. A dry application will result in softer, sheerer color, while a wet (or damp) application results in more intense pigmentation. Overall, it’s a nice quad; all four shades performed fairly well with the gray-purple shade being slightly powdery but the others were better in texture.

Can we just take a second to look at how little product is actually contained in the palette? A mere 0.07 oz.! That’s a little more than the average full-sized single eyeshadow. Visually, they seem full and normal, so I imagine part of it is due to the formula being naturally very lightweight, even if it fills up a normal volume.  Chanel regularly releases one-off (well, as far as we officially know!) formulas, like last July had Ombres Fleuries which contained 0.14 oz. The formula on these seems very similar to Ombres Fleuries but is not like the formula used in Harmonie du Soir. Regular quads typically have 0.24 oz. (U.S. versions).

Jardin Zen #1 is a muted, medium-dark purple with neutral-to-cool undertones and a satin finish. It had sheer color payoff when applied dry, and then mostly opaque color payoff when applied damp. The texture was soft but powdery, while the color itself wore well for almost eight hours before fading. Too Faced Candied Violet (P, $16.00) is more frosted, darker. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #6 (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Tease #2 (P) is more matte. Fyrinnae Agenda (P, $6.80) is brighter. Tom Ford Beauty Enchanted #3 (LE) is lighter. NARS Charade #2 (P, $24.00) is darker, warmer. NARS 413 BLKR #1 (P, $24.00) is more frosted, lighter. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #2 is a peachy-beige with a golden shimmer-sheen that looks almost metallic in finish. It had semi-sheer pigmentation when applied dry, and it was nicely pigmented when applied damp. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and it was not powdery. This shade wore well for eight hours before beginning to fade. theBalm #18 (P, $6.50) is lighter. NARS Mississippi Mermaid (LE, $24.00) is pinker. Disney by Sephora Scuttle (LE) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #3 is a soft, light-medium pink with warm, yellow undertones and a satiny sheen. It had semi-sheer to semi-opaque color payoff when applied dry, and when applied with a dampened brush, it was fully opaque. The powder was soft and finely-milled, and it applied smoothly. It wore well for almost eight hours on before it showed signs of fading. Too Faced Too-Too (LE, $16.00) is warmer. Urban Decay Minor Sin (LE, $18.00) is lighter. MAC Pink Frontier (P, $21.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #4 is a deep black with subtle, warm undertones and a satin finish. It had semi-opaque pigmentation when applied dry, and then it was intensely pigmented when applied with a dampened brush. The color wore well for eight and a half hours before it seemed to fade around the edges slightly. It’s a very basic color, though certainly a nice iteration, so there are a fair number of similar shades — see comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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palette

Jardin Zen

A-

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Jardin Zen #1

B

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

Jardin Zen #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, February 19th, 2014

theBalm Eyeshadow Pans
theBalm Eyeshadow Pans

Just in time for the new year, theBalm Eyeshadow Pans ($6.50 for 0.12 oz. each) launched so that you can customize your own palettes. It also coincided with the opening of their store in San Francisco. Right now, these can only be purchased through their store, though you can place phone orders (415-817-1800). Each eyeshadow pan is available for $6.50 and comes in a cardboard sleeve. The 9-pan palette is $8.00, while the 16-pan palette is $10. If you fill either the 9- or 16-pan palette up at the time of purchase, they will run you $44.00 (normally, $66.50) and $64.00 (normally, $114.00) respectively. I love the concept, and it’s very affordable, whether you fill at the time of purchase or as you go over time. There are five different designs to choose from for the 9-pan palettes and five for the 16-pan palettes. Each palette is made out of thick cardboard–same as theBalm’s eyeshadow palettes have been in the past–and come with full-sized mirrors on the top flap.

Aside from availability/distribution being limited, these are all numbered–none of them have names–and there is overlap with previously released shades (I asked and this was confirmed), but there is no chart or information regarding which shades are from what previous palettes. It would have been nice to know, so if there was a shade you really had your eye on from a palette, whether to replenish or purchase for the first time, it would be easy to do so. It would also help anyone avoid duplicates if they’re a regular theBalm palette buyer. theBalm is also a brand that seems to use names everywhere else in their range, so I would have liked to see these also have names. When I was opening each of these, the majority of the original labels were lifted off by the exterior packaging, so I had to add my own labels and handwrite the numbers on the back of each–the label just has the number, but it’s not something the customer should have to deal with when purchasing a product.

I’ve been testing these since late December, and I’ve now finished testing every single shade for wear, so you’ll see reviews moving forward. This is the first of several posts–there are forty-four shades!–and can be considered the overview. The eyeshadow pans contain 0.12 oz. (I’m not entirely sure how they crammed so much product in the pan), but the pan itself is not oversized–it is the same size as brands like MAC, Urban Decay, Makeup Geek, etc. They fit into MAC palettes (old and new), but they don’t seem to stick; I can turn my new MAC palette upside down, give it a tap, and the eyeshadow will pop out. However, they work well in Z Palettes and do not require additional magnets.

It will take me some time to actually write-up and post individual reviews, so I have gone ahead and added all of the photos and swatches for the forty-four shades in the meanwhile. You can view swatches of all of them in the Swatch Gallery here or view photos and swatches on theBalm’s Eyeshadow Single product page. In general, I like them, but some shades are powdery so they perform best over an eyeshadow primer and/or need to be patted, rather than swept, on to minimize excessive powdery fall out during application. Pigmentation and texture were also good with there being a few misses, and the texture was typically soft, slightly powdery, and occasionally, a few shades had a drier texture that was powdery but not stiff. Individual reviews (along with dupes and all that good stuff) to come! :)

The Glossover

product

Eyeshadow Single

In general, I like them, but some shades are powdery so they perform best over an eyeshadow primer and/or need to be patted, rather than swept, on to minimize excessive powdery fall out during application. Pigmentation and texture were also good with there being a few misses, and the texture was typically soft, slightly powdery, and occasionally, a few shades had a drier texture that was powdery but not stiff.

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Wednesday, February 19th, 2014

Tom Ford Orchid Haze Eyeshadow Quad
Tom Ford Orchid Haze Eyeshadow Quad

Tom Ford Orchid Haze Eyeshadow Quad ($78.00 for 0.35 oz.) is a warm-toned palette that features a champagne, brown, rosy plum, and deep plum. Yesterday, I mentioned that I have a hit or miss relationship with Tom Ford’s quads, and this is one of the better ones I’ve tried (I also thought it would show that not all of the brand’s quads are like Ice Queen). It was only the darkest shade that I had any significant issues with–though I think for most, near-perfection is a prerequisite to consider something at this price point.  I can see this being a real workhorse of a palette for some with the color combination being a good mix of light and dark, matte and shimmer, so I disappointed that the last shade was such a miss.

Orchid Haze #1 is a warm-toned, golden peach with a frosted, almost metallic, finish. It had excellent color payoff, and the texture was incredibly soft, smooth, and finely-milled. It wore well for eight hours before starting to fade. Too Faced Marzipan (P, $16.00) is less frosted, darker. bareMinerals Ball Gown (LE) is more golden. Tom Ford Beauty In the Pink #2 (LE) is less frosted but very similar. theBalm Stubborn (P, $16.00) is less shimmery. theBalm Third Eye Blinded (P, $16.00) is less shimmery. Estee Lauder Pink Zinc (P, $24.00) is a cream product. bareMinerals Custom Made (LE) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Orchid Haze #2 is a warm-toned, medium brown with warm, orange undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. The texture was soft and finely-milled but slightly powdery. It’s a shade I thought was easier to apply with a dampened brush, as it gave it a smoother application and minimized excess fall out. It did wear well for eight hours before it showed signs of fading. Sleek MakeUP Python (P, $9.99) is darker. MAC Pink Sensibilities #1 (LE, $21.00) is similar. Urban Decay Liar (P, $18.00) is less warm-toned. Clarins The Essentials #9 (LE) is darker. Le Metier de Beaute Champagne Shimmer (P, $28.00) is a cream product. CoverGirl Melted Caramel (330) (P, $4.99) is darker, less frosted. Clinique Ample Amber (P, $17.00) is a cream product. See comparison swatches.

Orchid Haze #3 is a softened rosy plum with a pearly finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was soft and velvety. There was a very slight powderiness to it. When I wore it, the color lasted for almost eight hours before looking faded along the edges. Chanel Quadrille #1 (LE) is darker, less shimmery. Urban Decay Buzz (P, $18.00) is lighter, warmer. theBalm Just This Once Jamie (P, $16.00) is darker, cooler-toned. Make Up For Ever #141 (P, $20.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Orchid Haze #4 is a muted, blackened burgundy with neutral-to-cool undertones and a matte finish. It had seemingly good color payoff, but the texture is very powdery, so it sheers away as soon as you blend or touch the product–it doesn’t really seem to bind or adhere well to the skin. On the lid, it looked dry and slightly uneven/patchy and was difficult to blend. The color wore well for seven and a half hours. Tarte Plums Up (LE) is lighter, warmer. Tarina Tarantino Deep Dahlia (LE) is brighter, shimmery. Kat Von D Fur Elise (P) is lighter. theBalm Sexy (P, $16.00) is darker. theBalm Moderato (P, $16.00) is similar. MAC Blackberry (P, $15.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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palette

Orchid Haze

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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product

Orchid Haze #1

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Orchid Haze #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Tuesday, February 18th, 2014

Tom Ford Ice Queen Eyeshadow Quad
Tom Ford Ice Queen Eyeshadow Quad

Tom Ford Ice Queen Eyeshadow Quad ($78.00 for 0.35 oz.) is a cool-toned palette that features shades of white, gray, silver, and bluish-gray. I feel like I’m in the minority, but generally, I’m not over-the-moon with the brand’s eyeshadow formula or their quads. I thought this review would be a nice companion to yesterday’s palette review to show that products can miss at any price point. Though every shade feels like silk and lightness, they don’t apply well. The texture just doesn’t seem to adhere well and each one yields a soft wash of color, and the darkest shade looked uneven and dry on my lid. I’ve been on-and-off testing Tom Ford’s eyeshadow primer, and so as this was under-performing on its own, I also wore it over that and was equally unimpressed. That dry, patchy application of the darkest shade didn’t improve at all over the brand’s primer, which did surprise me somewhat. Sometimes the glittery shade works well for me, other times they do result in fall out–this one had some fall out, but most of it occurs during application and only some occurs during wear (but enough to be noticeable). All four eyeshadows looked faded after seven hours of wear, and the frosted silver showed some creasing. I have loved some of Tom Ford’s quads, but I have also been burned by a few, and this one was a miss for me.

Ice Queen #1 is a brightened, neutral-to-cool white with a frosted, almost metallic, finish. This was the best-performing shade in the palette, as the texture was soft, smooth, and adhered to the lid. The color payoff was fairly good, but this is such a basic shade (so it’s good to have it somewhere ni your stash), there are a lot of dupes — see comparison swatches.

Ice Queen #2 is a sparkly, light-medium silver with a glittery, metallic finish. It had semi-sheer color payoff, but it’s best applied as a sheer wash as it gets chunky and clingy when layered. I would highly recommend applying your eye makeup first so that the glittery excess can be cleaned up prior to applying your base products. It did have some fall out during wear (beyond what occurred during application). Much like the previous shade, this, too, is a shade that has been done a lot in the beauty world — see comparison swatches.

Ice Queen #3 is a light-medium gray with a soft, pearly sheen. It had so-so color payoff, and I did not find it buildable on the lid. The texture is soft, finely-milled, and velvety. The finish of this shade made it difficult to dupe. Chanel Fascination #2 (P) is much lighter. Guerlain Les Gris #2 (P) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Ice Queen #4 is a muted, dark bluish-gray with a matte finish. The texture, while undeniably soft and silky, was quite powdery and chalky in application. It seemed to cling to the skin and apply unevenly–it looked dry and patchy on my eyelid, even when applied over primer. It was extremely difficult to blend, because the more I blended, the drier and more uneven it looked. NARS Mandchourie #2 (P, $24.00) is bluer. MAC Typographic (P, $15.00) is grayer. Guerlain Les Gris #1 (P) is darker. bareMinerals Amnesia (P) is darker. bareMinerals Maven (LE) is bluer. MAC Plumage (P, $15.00) is less gray. Inglot #389 (P, $6.00) is bluer. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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palette

Ice Queen

D+

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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product

Ice Queen #1

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Ice Queen #2

C-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Monday, February 17th, 2014

Wet 'n' Wild I'm His Breezey 5-Pan Color Icon Eyeshadow Palette
Wet ‘n’ Wild I’m His Breezey 5-Pan Color Icon Eyeshadow Palette

Wet ‘n’ Wild I’m His Breezey 5-Pan Color Icon Eyeshadow Palette ($3.99 for 0.21 oz.) contains five eyeshadows that range from silvery-white to navy blue. The quality of this palette is mediocre; every shade suffered from a powdery, sometimes chalky, base, so color payoff was often sheer, all were prone to fading quickly on the lid, and even in the event that a fair amount of color applied to the skin, it easily sheered away if you blended it at all. The consistency just didn’t allow the powder to bind, adhere, or smooth over the skin. It’s this type of quality that gives drugstore makeup a bad name–this reinforces every negative stereotype, and it’s unfortunate, because there are better products to be found in the drugstore aisles and Wet ‘n’ Wild used to make them to boot!

I had hoped that by now these palettes would be readily available online, but I still haven’t spotted the new 5-pan palettes, like this one, yet–they’re all permanent additions to Wet ‘n’ Wild’s range.

I’m His Breezey #1 is a soft, pale, bluish gray with a frosted finish. It had semi-sheer color payoff, and the texture was very, very powdery to work with. It managed less than four hours of decent wear on me. See comparison swatches.

I’m His Breezey #2 is a pale gray with a soft, frosted finish. It seemed like a promising shade initially, but it is so powdery to work with that it turns into a veil of color when applied. It had faded significantly after four hours of wear. See comparison swatches.

I’m His Breezey #3 is a cool-toned, muted, dark purple-blue with a mostly matte finish. It had sheer color payoff, and the texture was powdery and dry. It started to crease and fade after three hours of wear. See comparison swatches.

I’m His Breezey #4 is a medium, sky blue with a soft, pearly finish. The texture was powdery, slightly chalky, while the pigmentation was semi-sheer. This shade had completely vanished by the sixth hour–as in, it looked like my regular lid–and it was showing signs of fading after three hours. See comparison swatches.

I’m His Breezey #5 is a medium-dark, brightened blue with silver sparkle. It was the least powdery shade in the palette, and the color payoff was semi-opaque. It lasted longer than the other shades, too, and managed six hours. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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palette

I'm His Breezey

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Product

5/10

Pigmentation

6/10

Texture

5.5/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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I'm His Breezey #1

F

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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product

I'm His Breezey #2

D-

Product

5.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

3.5/5

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