Friday, March 6th, 2015

MAC Morganite Eyeshadow Duo
MAC Morganite Eyeshadow Duo

MAC Morganite Eyeshadow Duo ($22.00 for 0.09 oz.) is one of three neutral duos in the upcoming Julia Petit collaboration collection. It’s always disappointing when one shade out-performs the other, because it’s hard to justify a duo when half of it is less than stellar. The lighter shade is a drier, more glittery shade that is hard to apply without a tacky base to help it adhere to the skin. The darker shade has such a beautiful, workable texture, and again, the combination of shades could easily work well.

Sunstoned is described as a “soft pink champagne [with a Lustre finish].” It’s a light, golden beige with warm undertones and a frosted, sparkly finish. It had sheer coverage (which is more in line with the type of finish it is) with a dry, thin texture, but it didn’t have as gritty of a feel as Druzy, though it has similar issues such as poor adhesion to bare skin and fall out (during wear as well as during application). It lasted for six hours on me and had a significant amount of fall out over time. Giorgio Armani #10 (P, $32.00) is similar. MAC Natural Vigor #1 (LE, $21.00) is less sparkly. Dior Golden Shock #5 (LE) is less shimmery. Anastasia Blush (LE, $12.00) is lighter. MAC Faire Maiden (LE, $15.00) is darker, less sparkly. Too Faced Nutmeg (LE, $16.00) is darker. Stila Kitten (P) is less glittery. Dior Sundeck #2 (LE) is less glittery. Maybelline Beige-ing Beauty (85) (LE, $6.99) is a cream product. MAC Until Dawn #2 (LE, $21.00) is sparkly. Sleek MakeUP Meet in Madrid (LE, $9.99) is darker. Too Faced Moon on Their Wings (LE, $16.00) is more glittery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Choco Cake is described as a “dark chocolate [with a Matte finish].” It’s a muted, medium-dark brown with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. The texture was really soft, smooth, and almost creamy with how finely-milled and velvety the powder was. It had semi-opaque color coverage, but it went on evenly and was buildable to opaque color. I found this really blendable and more like MAC’s Matte2 finish than their typical matte finish–a major plus. It wore well for eight hours on me before fading. Hourglass Infinity #4 (P) is lighter. Kat Von D Orion (LE) is cooler-toned, more shimmery. Anastasia Chocolate (P, $12.00) is similar. Too Faced Chocolate Cake (LE, $16.00) is yellower. Make Up For Ever M630 Sweet Chestnut (P, $21.00) is lighter. Chanel Charming #4 (LE) is darker. MAC Swiss Chocolate (P, $15.00) is similar. MAC Ground Brown (P, $15.00) is redder. MAC Cross-Cultural (LE, $15.00) is similar. Inglot #327 (P, $6.00) is slightly darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Morganite

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Sunstoned

C-

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Choco Cake

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes

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Thursday, March 5th, 2015

MAC Sagu Eyeshadow Duo
MAC Sagu Eyeshadow Duo

MAC Sagu Eyeshadow Duo ($22.00 for 0.09 oz.) is one of three neutral duos in the upcoming Julia Petit collaboration collection. This duo’s downfall is just how poor the lighter shade is, which is owed a lot to the fact that it is a Lustre finish–one of MAC’s weakest finishes/formulas in their eyeshadow range. I wonder why MAC doesn’t make their “Lustre” finish their Pressed Pigments, since at least those have some adhesive quality. Most Lustres need to be used over a glitter adhesive or over a tacky, cream base (preferably something with a base color or is white). I think the idea of these two shades together could have been beautiful and easily a go-to for some, but the quality of the eyeshadows leaves something to be desired.

Druzy is described as a “dirty mauvy purple [with a Lustre finish].” It has a cool-toned, mauvy taupe base with copper and gold flecks of sparkle. This is an old school Lustre that’s a total pain to work with, because it’s a mess and rains sparkle/glitter all over your face and applies virtually no color. Since nothing adhered to the skin, I had to use it damp (even though it will cause the top layer to harden–Lustres, due to their dryness, seem very prone to hardening over time through oils on fingertips/brushes and are unforgiving if you use them with a damp brush) to even get anything to stick to the skin. The texture is dry, gritty, and there was no color or sparkle left after four hours. It had very sheer color payoff, and it was sheer by even Lustre standards (which is a sheerer finish with more sparkle). The color looks so promising in the pan–if only it was a Veluxe Pearl! It’s hard to “dupe” this since there’s little base color to replicate, but here are two possibilities that seemed like what you might have expected in a swatch. MAC Force of Nature #2 (LE, $21.00) is far more opaque. MAC Frozen Violet (P, $18.50) is a cream product that leans purpler. See comparison swatches / no Dupe List available, as I really don’t think these are dupes.

Black Plum is described as a “deep blackened plum [with a Matte finish].” It’s a blackened burgundy with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had so-so color payoff, which I think applies better with a fluffy brush, but it is drier and harder to blend on the skin. It lasted for eight hours once applied. Anastasia Deep Plum (P, $12.00) is warmer. Tom Ford Beauty Orchid Haze #4 (P) is lighter. Too Faced Charming (LE, $16.00) is lighter. theBalm Presto (P, $16.00) is similar. MAC Shadowy Lady (P, $15.00) is slightly cooler-toned. bareMinerals Ensemble (LE) is a smidgen darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Sagu

F

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

4/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

3/5

Results
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LE
product

Druzy

F

Product

05/10

Pigmentation

1/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

3.5/10

Application

2/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Black Plum

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes

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Thursday, March 5th, 2015

MAC Bao Bao's Jewels Eyeshadow Palette
MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels Eyeshadow Palette ($44.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a mix of warmer-toned neutrals with a splash of bluish-gray. I think this could have been such a great combo with a richer blue or emerald green (jewel tones!). In case you’re unfamiliar with MAC’s Veluxe Pearlfusion formula, it’s a wet/dry product where dry application results in “sheer coverage with a soft, sparkling finish,” while damp application results in “super saturation of colour with metallic brilliance.” Some shades are true to this, others are pigmented either way (which you may find is a good thing, depending on how you like to apply your eyeshadows). If you love a lot of sparkle or metallic finishes, you may like this formula, but it isn’t the easiest to work with as it tends to have a slightly dry texture that doesn’t bind together without a tacky base or damp application. The more sparkly shades tend to have some fall out during wear, though the color portions tend to wear eight to nine hours on me.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #1 is described as a “pale pink shimmer.” It’s a champagne beige with larger pink sparkle and glitter. This is a very glittery shade that is very dry, so it gets everywhere if you use it dry. When I used it with a damp brush, it was better, but it still had a lot of glittery fall out during application as well as during wear. The color part of it lasted for eight hours before creasing. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #2 is described as a “gold shimmer.” It’s a brightened, coppery gold with warm, brown undertones and a bright, metallic finish. It’s pretty pigmented regardless of dry or damp application, though dampened application is smoother and more brilliant. It wore well for eight and a half hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #3 is described as a “dark rose bronze.” It’s a coppery bronze brown with warm undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. This is another shade that was richly pigmented both wet and dry, which may be a happy accident for those who don’t want to have to use them damp to get the more opaque payoff, but it’s by no means “sheer” dry. The color wore well for nine hours but there was a bit of fall out from the sparkle in it. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #4 is described as a “dark brown with silver pearl.” It’s a taupe brown with warm, yellow undertones and and silver sparkle and smaller shimmers. It had semi-opaque coverage applied dry and fully opaque coverage applied damp, but the damp application makes it much easier to use, as it is smoother and the product holds together better. When I used it dry, the texture is drier and doesn’t bind as well, so there is a ton of fall out during application, and it just doesn’t wear as well dry for this shade–six hours with fall out–whereas damp application helps the powder bind and adhere to the skin and lasts eight hours with minor fall out. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #5 is described as a “steel grey shimmer.” It’s a cool-toned, medium-dark bluish-gray with a frosted, metallic sheen. It had sheer coverage applied dry (yay! just as described!) and mostly opaque when applied damp. This shade wore well for eight hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Bao Bao's Jewels

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Bao Bao's Jewels #1

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Bao Bao's Jewels #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Monday, March 2nd, 2015

NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a highlighter and bronzer duo. The two work together well, and when applied dry, they can be quite flattering on the skin, though dry application doesn’t have the best staying power. Both shades tended to emphasize the skin’s natural texture and any imperfections when applied with a damp brush, unfortunately, as the shimmery finishes intensified. To reiterate what I’ve mentioned in previous reviews: NARS describes the damp application as a sheer wash of color, but the reality is that this type of application yields deeper, richer, more opaque coverage than dry, and it also makes it harder to work with, as it doesn’t blend as readily as the formula does used dry.

Craving (Left) is described as a “sparkling seashell pink highlighter.” It’s a pink-tinged iridescent white with a metallic shimmer-sheen finish and cool undertones. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer with a frosted, metallic finish, which didn’t emphasize pores and lasted for seven hours on me. Applied damp, it was semi-opaque with a metallic sheen, which did emphasize pores and stayed on for eight hours before fading. NARS Devotee (LE, $29.00) is more sparkly. Urban Decay Luminous (P, $29.00) is less pink. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is darker, pinker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Craving (Right) is described as a “shimmering beachy bronze.” It’s a medium-dark orange brown with warm undertones and a gold shimmer. Applied dry, it had opaque color coverage that was fairly blendable and had a lovely satin sheen that didn’t emphasize pores. It wore well for seven hours this way before fading. When I tried to apply it with a dampened brush, the finish was more like a high frosted sheen, which did give my skin a more noticeable texture, though the color lasted for eight and a half hours. NYX Beach Babe (P, $6.50) is lighter. Bobbi Brown Bronze (LE, $45.00) is more muted. Urban Decay Strip Bronzer (P) is darker. MAC Alpine Bronze (LE, $27.00) is less shimmery. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Bikini Contest (P, $3.99) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

P
palette

Craving

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Craving (Left)

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Craving (Right)

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes

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Saturday, February 28th, 2015

NARS Panic Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Panic Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Panic Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a vibrant duo featuring a bright pink and rusty coral. This seemed to be the least forgiving of the duos releasing as we’re working with much richer shades to begin with, so any weakness in blending is easily seen, and it is lacking that blendability that is so necessary when you have deeper shades like these two. The texture of the product dry is firm and a little stiff, so getting a really even, smooth layer of color dry wasn’t easy and required some buffing with a separate brush to get everything in place. Applied damp, it was hard to avoid splotchy color. Worth repeating, NARS described the formula to have richer color payoff applied dry with more of a wash of color applied damp, and the latter isn’t true whatsoever–applying with a damp brush results in much richer, deeper color and a more intense finish (typically more shimmery).

Panic (Left) is described as a “shimmering shocking fuchsia.” It’s a brightened, medium fuchsia pink with cool, blue undertones and a soft, frosted finish. Applied dry, it had mostly opaque color coverage, was somewhat blendable but not easy to apply, and the shimmer very slightly emphasized pores, but with enough buffing, it’s possible to tamp it down, while the color itself lasted for seven and a half hours on me. Applied damp, it was fully opaque with really rich color coverage but lacked blendability as it adhered and “dried” in place and didn’t want to diffuse/blend out after a few seconds. The finish is more noticeably shimmery on the skin and tended to emphasize the skin’s natural texture. The damp application lasted eight and a half hours. NARS Adoration (Right) (P) is warmer. Clinique Berry Pop (03) (P, $21.00) is brighter, darker. Tom Ford Beauty Narcissist (LE, $55.00) is darker. MAC Supernova (LE, $27.00) is warmer. MAC Feeling Flush (LE, $27.00) is more muted. Burberry Hydrangea Pink (P, $42.00) is less shimmery, darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Panic (Right) is described as a “shimmering orange-pink.” It’s a brightened, medium coral with a hint of pink and a gold, frosted shimmer. Applied dry, it had mostly opaque color payoff with a fairly shimmery finish, so it did make my pores more noticeable, and the color stayed on well for seven hours before fading. Applied damp, it deepened and turned a reddish-orange coral with a more metallic sheen, and definitely made my cheeks look very textured as a result, though it lasted a bit longer than dry application at eight hours. It was also rather difficult to blend the color out when I tried using it damp. MAC Secret Admirer (LE, $20.00) is a cream product. Surratt Beauty Ponceau (P, $32.00) is less shimmery, lighter. IT Cosmetics Pretty in Peony (P, $24.00) is pinker. Clinique Ginger Pop (01) (P, $21.00) is less shimmery. NARS Realm of the Senses (Together) (LE, $29.00) is pinker. MAC Simmer (LE, $27.00) is pinker. Tom Ford Beauty Flush (P, $55.00) is less shimmery, lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

P
palette

Panic

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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P
product

Panic (Left)

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Panic (Right)

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes

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Thursday, February 26th, 2015

NARS Fervor Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Fervor Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Fervor Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a mix of warm pink and plum. The formula can be used wet or dry, with dry application yielding a “bold flush,” while damp application gives a “translucent wash of color.” The blushes perform best when applied dry, as they blend and diffuse with little effort and have decent wear (though wear definitely is longer and improved with a damp application). Applying either damp is trickier, as you lose a lot of the ability to blend, and it’s really more like tugging and dabbing color into place, but it never appears as nicely diffused and blended as dry application does. Damp application also means you have to contend with potentially emphasizing pores due to shimmery finishes getting amplified; the lighter shade in the duo didn’t seem to do so, but the darker shade will get very metallic quickly if you aren’t careful (and will take a lot of work to tamp it back down). The texture of the blushes is soft and smooth to the touch, but the powder itself has a firmer press, so really soft, feathery brushes (like Chikuhodo Zs, SUQQU, etc.) do not work well with these in particular. I primarily used MAC 159s when applying these, as they worked well for both dry and damp application methods.

Fervor (Left) is described as a “shimmering, soft pink.” It’s a light-medium pink with warm, yellow undertones and a silvery shimmer. The pigmentation was similar both wet and dry–mostly opaque–but dampened application made the color two to three shades darker and intensified the shimmery effect in the finish. Luckily, while it has noticeable shimmer, it doesn’t intensify to the point where it’s harder to apply; it stayed luminous without emphasizing pores regardless of application method. On me, the blush lasted for seven hours applied dry and eight hours applied damp. LORAC Underrated (LE) is darker, more matte. MAC Modest Blush (LE, $27.00) is more matte. MAC Lesson in Love (LE, $21.00) is lighter. Chanel Sakura (87) (LE, $45.00) is more matte, warmer. Charlotte Tilbury Love Glow (P, $40.00) is similar. Giorgio Armani Eccentrico (LE, $88.00) is warmer. MAC Dainty (P, $27.00) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Fervor (Right) is described as a “sparkling deep coppery rose.” It’s a medium-dark, coppery brown with pink and gold shimmer for a more frosted finish. Applied dry, it had semi-opaque pigmentation with a soft, frosted finish. Applied damp, it was darker, bolder, and nearly metallic. It is a lot harder to work with damp than dry, so my recommendation is to apply dry unless you really need the color intensify of damp application, but be prepared for a lot of buffing and/or dusting of translucent powder to tamp it down. Just blending the damp product is significantly harder, whereas dry application feels nearly effortless. Applied damp, the metallic finish emphasizes the skin’s natural texture and any pores in the area. Applied dry, it wore well for eight hours, and applied damp, it lasted for eight and a half hours. This one was more of a chameleon between dry and damp applications, as it takes on a stronger rosy/plum color damp compared to how warm and copper it is dry. Sephora + Pantone Universe Marsala (LE) is rosier. MAC Make You Mine (P, $23.50) is less shimmery. Gucci Beauty Cherry Nectar (P, $49.00) is redder. Tom Ford Beauty Contour (Softcore) (LE, $55.00) is redder. NARS Mauritanie (LE, $39.00) is a cream, matte. Chanel Canaille (89) (LE, $45.00) is similar to the dry application, primarily. NARS Na Pali Coast (P, $39.00) is a cream. MAC Scene to Be Seen (Inner) (LE, $30.00) is similar. NARS Lovejoy (P, $29.00) is slightly more plum. MAC Stylish Me (LE, $21.00) is darker. MAC Ambering Rose (P, $21.00) is warmer, brighter. MAC Stratus (LE, $27.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

P
palette

Fervor

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Fervor (Left)

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Fervor (Right)

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes

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