Tuesday, March 11th, 2014

Divergent Collector's Kit
Divergent Collector’s Kit

Divergent Collector’s Kit ($59.50) includes fifteen eyeshadows, two blushes, one bronzer, one highlighter, four lipglosses, and a double-ended eye/cheek brush. I’ve been waiting to hear back from Sephora regarding the Lipglosses to get names (mine weren’t labeled–thank you readers Denise & Thu for your help!), but now the palette is listed as out of stock! I’m not entirely sure it’s going to be back in stock, and as it is listed as only available online, you can’t track it down in stores. Reader Erica, who works at Sephora in Pittsburgh, said stores will have them. (Could this launch be any more confusing–VIB rouge, then VIB, no everyone! online! no, maybe stores, too?!) I’m going to share my overall thoughts on the kit along with full photos and swatches, but I’m not going to consider going as in-depth as I typically would unless it becomes available again.

Overall, it’s actually a decent kit, and you get a lot of product for your money. The eyeshadows were fairly pigmented, soft (sometimes powdery, a couple were dry), and wore well for seven to eight hours. The cheek products were a little powdery but blendable and buildable, and those wore seven to eight hours applied as well. The lipglosses were mostly non-sticky, lightweight, glossy, and sheer to semi-sheer, while they wore two to three hours on average. It performed better than expected, but the colors are more dupable than not.

There is something about the set that feels very familiar, particularly in regards to the lipglosses, which mimic Hourglass’ gloss packaging (and it might be generically available packaging, rather than uniquely made for Hourglass) and the cheek palette feels like they’ve attempted to dupe NARS’ blushes (Orgasm, Amour, Laguna, Albatross), but the blushes aren’t really true dupes for the NARS’ ones that came to mind.

Cheek Palette

Obscure Coral is a medium-dark, coral-red with a golden sheen. See comparison swatches.

Misty Rose is a muted, dusty rose pink with subtle, cool undertones and a satin finish. See comparison swatches.

Gleaming Pearl is a cool-toned, white base with a glowing, golden sheen–almost green-tinged, very metallic. See comparison swatches.

Intelligent Bronze is a medium-dark, yellow-toned brown with a golden sheen. See comparison swatches.

Eyeshadow Palettes

Transform is a sheer, silver glitter that feels almost wet to the touch. See comparison swatches.

Bold Espresso is a dark, subtly warm-toned brown with a satin-matte finish. See comparison swatches.

Intrepid Moss is a warm-toned, olive green with a frosted finish. See comparison swatches.

Golden Honesty is a bright, light-medium yellow gold with a metallic finish. See comparison swatches.

Altruistic Almond is a light-medium, yellow-toned beige with a matte finish. See comparison swatches.

Choose is a golden beige with warm undertones and a glitter finish. See comparison swatches.

Burnt Mahogany is a red-toned, medium-dark brown with warm undertones and a satin finish. See comparison swatches.

Radiant Initiation (which appears to be spelled wrong on the palette) is a cool-toned, medium taupe brown with a satin-matte finish. See comparison swatches.

Peaceful Shimmer is a brightened, coppery orange with warm undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. See comparison swatches.

Humble Sheen is a light, peachy-beige with a frosted finish. See comparison swatches.

Diverge is a dark, taupe-brown with a golden glittery sheen. See comparison swatches.

Dauntless Ink is a medium-dark black with a matte finish. See comparison swatches.

Abnegation Stone is a cool-toned, taupe with a frosted sheen. See comparison swatches.

Erudite Sapphire is a cool-toned, navy blue with a pearly finish. See comparison swatches.

Serene Vanilla is a light beige with warm undertones and a satin-matte finish. See comparison swatches.

Lipglosses

Natural Virtue is a light-medium, muted peachy-orange with warm undertones. It looks milky applied, settles into lip lines tremendously. See comparison swatches.

Supreme Ritual is a light, gold-shimmered peach with warm undertones. See comparison swatches.

Temptation’s Choice is a muted orange with bronze and tangerine shimmer. See comparison swatches.

Fear Not is a medium-dark, warm-toned plum with gold shimmer. See comparison swatches.

P.S. — Thank you to readers Denise & Thu for helping with the lipgloss’ naming situation! Kits bought through Sephora should have labels on the back (mine was a press sample).

The Glossover

LE
palette

Collector's Kit

Overall, it's actually a decent kit, and you get a lot of product for your money. It performed better than expected, but the colors are more dupable than not.
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Obscure Coral

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product

Misty Rose

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Tuesday, March 11th, 2014

Laura Mercier Spring 2014 Artist Eyeshadow Palette
Laura Mercier Spring 2014 Artist Eyeshadow Palette

Laura Mercier Spring 2014 Artist Eyeshadow Palette ($80.00 for 0.41 oz.) includes twelve eyeshadows (0.03 oz. each), miniature-sized Caviar Stick in Cocoa, (0.03 oz.) and miniature-sized Full Blown Volume Mascara in Black (0.20 oz.). It’s a nice palette overall, and if you’re a fan of more neutral, muted colors with matte and satin finishes, you’ll probably get a lot of use out of this one. The downside is that if you don’t love or use the included minis, then this palette is significantly less value-packed than the last two editions of it. The only overlap with holiday’s palette is with Guava and African Violet. Generally, the eyeshadows had good color payoff, soft, smooth textures, and wore eight and a half hours before fading or creasing.

During the holidays, when Laura Mercier released the holiday Artist Eyeshadow Palette, it sold out quickly and was difficult to track down. It’s not at all a surprise that this is still around over a month later, because the $80 price tag of spring’s palette, compared to the holiday palette’s price of $48, makes it difficult to justify–even if Laura Mercier wants us to feel like we’re getting our value because they’ve included a miniature-sized Caviar Stick and Mascara. Laura Mercier says that the palette has a value of $120. Based on what’s included, the set includes $92.00 worth of eyeshadow, $10.40 worth of Caviar Stick, $12.00 worth of mascara, which is $114.40–shy of $120. I think it was a very shortsighted move to significantly increase the price of the palette and tossing in two minis, because the palette is the star attraction–the other two items are just bonuses, and at the end of the day, I don’t think they justify the $32 price hike, because you’re really not getting more value, you’re just buying more products and paying that price for them. If they had made the palette closer to $60 and included both minis, I think it would have sold better. Make no mistake: you are paying real money to get those minis, they’re not just toss-ins; it ends up looking like a way of justifying that $80 price tag to customers.

Noir is described as a “deepest black [with a Matte finish].” It’s a medium-dark black with neutral-to-warm undertones and a matte finish. It had fairly good color payoff, but it could have been a bit more pigmented. The texture was soft and blendable, and the color lasted well for eight and a half hours. There are many black eyeshadows just like it — see comparison swatches.

Deep Night is described as a “deep black navy [with a Matte finish].” It’s a blackened navy that leans almost purple with a matte finish. It had decent pigmentation, though it could have been more intense. It was more buildable, though, so you could achieve truer-to-pan color with a few layers. The color wore well for just over eight and a half hours. Wet ‘n’ Wild I’m His Breezey #3 (P, $2.29) is less pigmented. bareMinerals Maven (LE) is slightly bluer. NARS Kamchatka (P, $24.00) is lighter. MAC Naval (LE, $15.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Coffee Ground is described as a “cool charcoal brown [with a Matte finish].” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned brown with a matte finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was soft and smooth without being powdery. It wore well for eight and a half hours. Too Faced Triple Fudge (P, $16.00) is darker. Laura Mercier Espresso (LE, $23.00) is darker. bareMinerals Boardroom (LE) is darker. MAC Brun (P, $15.00) is similar. Inglot #363 (P, $6.00) is very similar. Bobbi Brown Hot Stone (LE, $22.00) is slightly cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Cafe au Lait is described as a “neutral caramel beige [with a Matte finish].” It’s a medium brown with subtle, warm yellow undertones and a matte finish. It had excellent pigmentation, and the texture was soft and silky. It wore well for nine hours. Sleek MakeUP Entwined (P, $9.99) is more shimmery, darker. Makeup Geek Latte (P, $5.99) is warmer. Chanel Charming #2 (LE) is very similar. Too Faced Chocolate Milk (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Bobbi Brown Frappe (LE, $22.00) is lighter. LORAC Taupe (P) is very similar. Burberry Pale Nude #1 (P) is more shimmery. Inglot #357 (P, $6.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches.

Ginger is described as a “light neutral peach [with a Matte finish].” It’s a soft, light-medium orange with a matte finish. It had really nice color payoff, and the consistency of the powder was soft, smooth, and easy to blend. The color wore well for almost eight and a half hours. Anastasia Orange Soda (LE) is more orange. Kat Von D Geek (LE) is more shimmery. Bobbi Brown Terracotta (LE, $22.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Buttercream is described as a “light neutral yellow [with a Matte finish].” It’s a pale, neutral-to-warm beige with a matte finish. It had fairly good pigmentation, and the texture was very soft and silky, though it almost looked chalky on my medium complexion (should be fine on fairer skin tones). It wore well for eight hours. It’s another basic shade, so there are plenty of similar shades out there — see comparison swatches.

Diamond Pink is a brightened, pinky-white with a metallic finish. This is a limited edition shade (exclusive to the palette) and has a Luster finish, officially. It had good color payoff, and the texture was soft but not quite as smooth as other shades in the palette. I noticed a smidgen of fall out over time with this color but not too much, otherwise the wear was eight and a half hours. This shade is surprisingly common to see, so there are quite a few that are very close (with minor differences, like a fraction lighter/darker/more metallic) — see comparison swatches.

Guava is described as a “peach stucco [with a Sateen finish].” It’s a light-medium, peachy-pink with warm undertones and a soft, golden sheen. The texture was incredibly soft and smooth, while the color payoff was good. It wore well for eight and a half hours on me. theBalm #14 (P, $6.50) is lighter. Too Faced Ringleader (LE, $16.00) is similar. Wet ‘n’ Wild Newport Nights #2 (LE) is less shimmery. MAC Dynamic Duo 1 #1 (LE, $15.00) is similar. Le Metier de Beaute Nouvelle (LE, $30.00) is lighter. bareMinerals Custom Made (LE) is less golden. See comparison swatches.

Sable is described as a “cool grey taupe [with a Sateen finish].” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned taupe with a soft, pearly finish. It had decent color payoff, but it was a little stiffer than the other shades in the palette, though it lasted for almost nine hours applied to the lid. Bobbi Brown Smokey Grey (LE, $21.00) is darker. NARS Lhasa (P, $24.00) is similar. MAC Shale (P, $15.00) is darker. MAC Stolen Moment (LE, $19.50) is darker. Giorgio Armani Shimmer Greige (LE) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

African Violet is described as a “violet copper shimmer [with a Luster finish].” It’s a cool-toned, medium-dark plum with a golden shimmer-sheen. The texture was a little drier with larger shimmer particles, so it didn’t apply as smoothly. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours. theBalm #2 (P, $6.50) is darker. Fyrinnae Meerkat (Pressed) (P, $8.25) is darker. MAC Pinkluxe #3 (P) is darker, cooler-toned. MAC Neo Nebula (LE, $21.00) is less golden. See comparison swatches.

Violet Steel is a cool-toned, purplish-taupe with a frosted sheen. It has a Luster finish, officially, and is limited edition/exclusive to this palette. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was soft and smooth. This shade wore well for nine hours. Urban Decay Darkside (P, $18.00) is less shimmery. MAC Graphic Style (LE, $15.00) is similar. Urban Decay Armor (LE, $18.00) is grayer. MAC Moth Brown (LE, $15.00) is less shimmery, grayer. MAC Stolen Moment (LE, $19.50) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Rich Cocoa is a dark, warm-toned brown with bronze shimmer and a satin finish . It has a Sateen finish, officially. It had so-so color payoff, but the consistency was dry and powdery, so it wasn’t as easy to apply as the other shades. Urban Decay Twice Baked (P, $18.00) is lighter. MAC Carbonized (LE, $15.00) is darker. Dior Fairy Golds #5 (LE) is more shimmery. Burberry Dark Spice #2 (P) is darker. Bobbi Brown Cocoa (P, $22.00) is darker, less shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Cocoa (Caviar Stick) is a medium-dark, chocolate brown with warm, yellowy undertones and a satin-matte finish. It had excellent color payoff, applied smoothly, and wore well for nine hours without creasing or fading. Bobbi Brown Cocoa (P, $22.00) is darker, powder. LORAC Sable (P) is slightly darker, powder. Bobbi Brown Bittersweet (LE, $28.00) is very similar. MAC Dark Brew (P, $15.00) is more shimmery, powder. See comparison swatches.

Full Blown Volume Lash Building Mascara is supposed to thicken, lengthen, curl, and sculpt lashes. For me, it did all those things about average or a little better–a good mascara but not life-changing. I would say it does more to thicken than it does to lengthen. I didn’t have any smudging or flaking, and it was easy enough to remove.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Spring 2014

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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product

Noir

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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P
product

Deep Night

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, March 10th, 2014

Illamasqua Fatale Eyeshadow Palette
Illamasqua Fatale Eyeshadow Palette

Illamasqua Fatale Eyeshadow Palette ($46.50 for 0.20 oz.) includes four shades of warmer, shimmery colors that include copper, berry, purple, and taupe. The color scheme really works well together, and there are various combinations one can create with just the four shades included. There’s a good mix of shades that can contrast against each other. For those who prefer more satin or matte finishes, this palette may feel like frost-overload. It’s a good palette, but two shades could have been more pigmented.

Bronx is described as a “bronzed gold.” It’s a light-medium, warm-toned coppery ornage with a frosted, slightly metallic, finish. It had rich, opaque color payoff, and the texture was soft, smooth, and blendable. It wore well for eight hours before fading. This is a shade that we’ve seen a lot, so there’s no shortage of dupes, but it’s a nice color to have in your arsenal if you don’t have it already. Makeup Geek Glamorous (P, $5.99) is darker, less shimery. Guerlain Crazy Paris #1 (LE) is more metallic, yellower. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #10 (P, $9.99) is more metallic. LORAC Gold (P) is very similar. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Starlet #4 (P) is slightly darker. MAC Amber Lights (P, $15.00) is brighter. Guerlain Calligraphy #2 (LE) is similar. bareMinerals Bragging Rights (LE) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Ensnare is described as a “sultry berry shimmer.” It’s a brightened, pinky-berry with warm, orange undertones and a frosted finish. It had fairly good pigmentation, but it was a little dry and didn’t apply as smoothly as Bronx. This shade started to show signs of fading just after seven and a half hours of wear. MAC Pink Pepper (LE, $21.00) is glittery, lighter. MAC Caribbean (LE, $21.00) is warmer. MAC Daydreaming (LE, $15.00) is warmer, lighter. See comparison swatches.

Charm is described as a “seductive violet shimmer.” It’s a cool-toned, light-medium pink-violet with a soft, frosted sheen. It had decent color payoff, but it wasn’t quite as pigmented as you’d expect from Illamasqua’s formula. It wore well though and lasted a full eight hours. Tarina Tarantino Fantastical #2 (P) is darker. NARS Rage (LE, $24.00) is darker. Kat Von D Babe (LE) is darker, cooler-toned. theBalm A2 (LE, $16.00) is darker, cooler-toned. Urban Decay Flash (P, $18.00) is darker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Mystify is described as a “chestnut brown.” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned taupe brown with a frosted, slightly metallic, finish. It had rich, opaque color payoff, and the texture was incredibly soft and silky-smooth. This shade wore well for eight hours before starting to show signs of fading. Maybelline Sleek & Spice (95) (LE, $6.99) is a cream product. Sleek MakeUP Paradise on Earth (P, $9.99) is lighter. Urban Decay Mugshot (P, $18.00) is very similar. Urban Decay Stray Dog (LE, $18.00) is darker. Giorgio Armani Fatal #1 (P) is less shimmery, lighter. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

palette

Fatale

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Bronx

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Dupes
P
product

Ensnare

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, March 3rd, 2014

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette
Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette ($49.00 for 0.40 oz.) consists of ten shades in the theme of all that is bold and colorful–you know, electric. It includes two previously-seen shades, Revolt and Chaos, while the other eight are new to the palette. Each shade is 0.04 oz., which is a little shy of full-sized eyeshadow (0.05 oz.), and it also includes a dual-ended brush.

In fine print on the back of the palette, which I didn’t even see until I was grabbing size information, is the following: “Warning: Slowburn, Savage, Jilted, and Urban are not intended for the immediate eye area.” It’s not surprising to see such a warning, given that neon pigments, generally, have not been tested or approved by FDA for use on the “immediate eye area.” If you are already sensitive to red or pink eyeshadows, you should definitely heed the warning, as they all have a pink/red tinge. Neon pigments are often approved in the EU and Canada but not in the U.S., though it could be another ingredient that isn’t approved for usage on the eye (will be curious if UK/Canadian palettes have the same warning on the back). As always, use at your own discretion and risk. I am not a cosmetic scientist or medical professional. I have shown all four of those shades applied as blushes–be careful with shades like Jilted and Urban, as that frosted finish coupled with the intense pigmentation means a little goes a long, long way.

Overall, the palette had good color payoff, soft and smooth textures, and long-wear. I liked the there were more matte shades paired with rather frosted/metallic shades, though I think one or two of the metallic finishes could have been softer frosts. The high frost/metallic finishes take more patience to blend with some of the matte shades, as the frostier shades have a denser, thicker feel, while the mattes are softer and thinner, so having a satin would work well in-between. The more matte shades perform fairly well even over bare skin, adhering for the most part and applying evenly without blending away, but they do perform their best over a primer for maximum vibrancy. The frosts did not need a primer (they were the same either way for me). I also wished there was a yellow or coral shade in the palette, as the majority of the colors are medium or dark, and it would have made for a better variety of colors.  All four shades indicated as not eye safe were prone to staining, with or without a primer underneath. The mattes lasted just over eight and a half hours on me before showing signs of fading, while the frosts/metallics lasted almost ten hours on me (they wore like iron). The brush seemed good – soft, easy to wash, didn’t take a long time to dry, no shedding.

Revolt is described as a “bright metallic silver shimmer with silver glitter.” It’s a brightened, light-medium silver with a metallic finish and silver micro-glitter. The pigmentation was slightly improved compared to when this was in the Anarchy palette, but it’s still not fully pigmented and has a fair amount of glitter. The problem with the glitter is that it just doesn’t bind with the rest of the powder, so it tends to fall out during application and whatever does end up on the lid does fall out later on. L’Oreal Silver Sky (757) (P, $7.99) is warmer. MAC Bleuluxe #1 (P) is lighter. MAC Virgin Silver (LE) is lighter. Bobbi Brown Tinsel (LE) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Gonzo is described as a “bright turquoise matte with floating tonal pearl.” It’s a brightened, medium blue with soft, silver micro-shimmer over a matte base–it appears mostly matte applied. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was very soft, just a little powdery. NARS Solomon Islands (P, $25.00) is darker, cream. Wet ‘n’ Wild I’m Seeing Triples Crease (LE, $2.29) is darker, cooler-toned. Disney by Sephora Royal (LE) is a smidgen darker. NARS Mad Mad World #1 (P, $24.00) is totally matte. Milani Olympian Blue (P, $5.99) is darker. MAC Electric Eel (P, $15.00) is warmer. MAC Blue Candy (LE, $15.00) is lighter. Inglot #322 (P, $6.00) is darker, warmer. See comparison swatches.

Slowburn is described as a “bright red-orange matte with floating pearl.” It’s a vibrant, medium-dark orange with strong, red tones and a mostly matte finish. It had excellent color payoff, and the texture was soft without being powdery. NARS Persia (P, $24.00) is darker, warmer, less red. MAC Orange (P, $15.00) is more orange. Inglot #123R Bottom (P, $6.00) is more muted, more orange. Sugarpill Love+ (P, $12.00) is cooler-toned, redder. Inglot #366 (P, $6.00) is darker, redder. See comparison swatches.

Savage is described as a “bright hot pink matte.” It’s a brightened, cool-toned, medium-dark magenta pink with a matte finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was soft and finely-milled, but it did sheer out a little when applied, so it needs to be gently patted on to maximize color payoff.  Milani Shocking Pink (P, $5.99) is cooler-toned, lighter. MAC Magenta Madness (LE, $21.00) is similar. Sugarpill Dollipop (P, $12.00) is a touch darker and less cool-toned. Make Up For Ever #75 (P, $20.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Fringe is described as a “bright metallic teal.” It’s a medium-dark, bluish-teal with a frosted, metallic finish. It had a really dense, buttery texture that was smooth and richly pigmented. Tarina Tarantino Ozma (LE) is bluer. Too Faced Sequin (LE, $16.00) is darker, greener. Fyrinnae Sleepy Hollow (P, $6.80) is darker. Disney by Sephora Caspian Sea (LE) is brighter, bluer. Urban Decay Deep End (P, $18.00) is bluer, darker. See comparison swatches.

Chaos is described as a “bright blue matte with floating tonal pearl.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark cobalt blue with fine, iridescent shimmer over a matte base. Wet ‘n’ Wild I Don’t Do Camouflage #3 (LE, $2.29) is darker, more muted. MAC Heroine (LE, $15.00) is darker, purpler. MAC Cobalt (P, $15.00) is darker. Illamasqua Sadist (P) is more muted. Sugarpill Royal Sugar (P, $12.00) is very similar. Sugarpill Velocity (P, $12.00) is more matte. See comparison swatches.

Jilted is described as a “bright metallic fuchsia with blue shift.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark fuchsia-berry with a soft, frosted finish. It was incredibly pigmented, and the texture was soft, smooth, and buttery. Sugarpill Smitten (LE, $12.00) is lighter. Too Faced Bright Eyes (LE, $16.00) is lighter, warmer. Too Faced Totally Fetch (LE, $16.00) is a little lighter. Urban Decay Junkshow (LE, $18.00) is slightly more muted. Estee Lauder Violet Underground #1 (LE, $21.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches.

Urban is described as a “bright metallic purple.” It’s a vibrant, medium purple with pinky-red undertones and a frosted finish. It had excellent color payoff, while the texture was buttery and smooth. Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm #5 (LE) is lighter. Urban Decay Freakshow (P, $18.00) is warmer, darker. Urban Decay Flash (P, $18.00) is lighter. MAC Push the Edge (P, $21.00) is slightly darker, warmer. Inglot #441 (P, $6.00) is lighter. Inglot #439 (P, $6.00) is slightly darker. See comparison swatches.

Freak is described as a “bright green with gold shift.” It’s a vibrant, light-medium, cool-toned green with a golden sheen, which gives it a mostly warm tone to it overall. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was soft and fairly smooth. Makeup Geek Appletini (P, $5.99) is darker, more muted. Fyrinnae Dragon’s Wing (P, $6.80) is darker. Disney by Sephora Atlantica (LE) is lighter. Illamasqua Possession (LE) is a cream product, less metallic. MAC Wondergrass (LE, $15.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Thrash is described as a “bright lime green matte with floating gold pearl.” It’s a light-medium, yellow-leaning chartreuse with a satin shimmer over a matte finish. It had fairly good colr payoff, but the texture is slightly powdery, even though it’s quite soft and finely-milled. MAC Chartreuse Bouquet (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery. NARS Rated R #1 (P, $24.00) is very similar. NARS Celebrate (P, $24.00) is less shimmery. MAC Bitter (P, $15.00) is lighter. Inglot #343 (P, $6.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

P
palette

Electric

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Revolt

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Gonzo

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2014

Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette
Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette

Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette ($30.00 for 0.49 oz.) is a new trio that features a bronzer, highlighter, and blush. It is a follow up to Naked Flushed. This one seems to [attempt to] match the blush to the colors of Native Lipstick and Native Lip Pencil, which are both light-medium pinks. I don’t think it’s a great match for either the lipstick or pencil, as it is distinctly cool-toned, whereas the lipstick is warm-toned and the pencil more neutral-to-warm-toned. To me, the color is a better match for Obsessed Lipstick. I didn’t like the original Naked Flushed palette, as I felt like the texture was firm and drier, but I didn’t love this one either, as it was powdery–makes me feel a bit like Goldilocks. Though you’ll see excess powder as you grab product onto your applicator, it doesn’t seem to look powdery on the skin, so that’s definitely a plus. It’s not ideal to have so much excess sitting on the surface of the pan when there are three shades that sit next to each other. The highlighter emphasizes pores/skin texture, which is a drawback. If used lightly, that effect can be lessened, but some care is required–it’s not foolproof.

Bronzer is described as a “medium bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, warm-toned brown with a satin finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was very soft and smooth, but it was powdery. When I applied it to cheeks, it was easy to do so–it blended easily, and it didn’t look powdery on. The bronzer wore well for eight hours before showing signs of fading. Urban Decay Naked Flushed Bronzer (P) is yellower. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is less shimmery, darker. Tarte Park Ave. Princess (P, $29.00) is more shimmery, yellower. MAC Love, Rihanna (LE, $25.00) is lighter. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is darker, more shimmery. MAC Lush Light Bronze (LE, $28.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Highlighter is described as a “pale pink shimmer.” It is a light, pink-tinged peach with light, warm undertones and a champagne shimmer-sheen. The finish is fairly frosted, and the pigmentation was really true-to-pan and rich, so a little of the highlighter goes a long way! I thought it applied best with feathery, sweeping motions and a less dense brush onto the high planes of the face. It did emphasize pores slightly, and it wore well for seven and a half hours before starting to look patchy. NARS Devotee (LE, $29.00) is very similar. MAC Sparkling Rose (LE) is darker, warmer. Urban Decay Glint (LE) is darker. Urban Decay Naked (P, $29.00) is lighter, more sparkly. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is pinker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Blush is described as a “bright pink.” It’s a brightened, light-medium pink with cool, blue undertones and a mostly matte finish. The texture was soft and finely-milled but powdery, so the color was somewhat buildable but easily sheered out as it was applied so I wouldn’t describe it as richly pigmented. This shade didn’t adhere as well to bare, normal-to-dry skin, but if you typically wear a liquid or cream foundation and apply over that, it should apply more readily. It wore well for seven hours on me before fading. NARS New Attitude (LE, $29.00) is warmer, darker. Milani Delizioso Pink (10) (P, $7.99) is darker. Givenchy It-Girl Purple (P, $44.00) is more shimmery, lighter. NARS Mistinguette (LE, $29.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Quickie (LE) is darker, brighter. theBalm Argyle (P, $22.00) is warmer. theBalm Down Boy (P, $21.00) is similar. MAC Peony Petal (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler-toned. MAC I’m the One (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

A word about names: there have been a few more recently released products with names that have stirred readers’ feelings. I want to reiterate that discussion is encouraged on Temptalia, and it is good to have open, honest, and civil conversations about things that are important to each of us. Please take great care in appreciating the diversity in opinions within the community without invalidating the other person’s feelings. While a name may not bother one person or someone interprets it differently than someone else, just because one person is not offended doesn’t mean that someone else shouldn’t be or can’t feel the way that they do. There are a million names to choose from, so if and when brands choose one over another, it’s okay to question that choice. You can read why the name of this product hasn’t been well-received by some readers here.

The Glossover

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palette

Native

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Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Bronzer

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Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Highlighter

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Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014

Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad ($65.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “soft pink, violet-plum gray, golden beige, [and] luminous black.” These eyeshadows can be used wet or dry, depending on the level of intensity you’re looking to achieve. A dry application will result in softer, sheerer color, while a wet (or damp) application results in more intense pigmentation. Overall, it’s a nice quad; all four shades performed fairly well with the gray-purple shade being slightly powdery but the others were better in texture.

Can we just take a second to look at how little product is actually contained in the palette? A mere 0.07 oz.! That’s a little more than the average full-sized single eyeshadow. Visually, they seem full and normal, so I imagine part of it is due to the formula being naturally very lightweight, even if it fills up a normal volume.  Chanel regularly releases one-off (well, as far as we officially know!) formulas, like last July had Ombres Fleuries which contained 0.14 oz. The formula on these seems very similar to Ombres Fleuries but is not like the formula used in Harmonie du Soir. Regular quads typically have 0.24 oz. (U.S. versions).

Jardin Zen #1 is a muted, medium-dark purple with neutral-to-cool undertones and a satin finish. It had sheer color payoff when applied dry, and then mostly opaque color payoff when applied damp. The texture was soft but powdery, while the color itself wore well for almost eight hours before fading. Too Faced Candied Violet (P, $16.00) is more frosted, darker. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #6 (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Tease #2 (P) is more matte. Fyrinnae Agenda (P, $6.80) is brighter. Tom Ford Beauty Enchanted #3 (LE) is lighter. NARS Charade #2 (P, $24.00) is darker, warmer. NARS 413 BLKR #1 (P, $24.00) is more frosted, lighter. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #2 is a peachy-beige with a golden shimmer-sheen that looks almost metallic in finish. It had semi-sheer pigmentation when applied dry, and it was nicely pigmented when applied damp. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and it was not powdery. This shade wore well for eight hours before beginning to fade. theBalm #18 (P, $6.50) is lighter. NARS Mississippi Mermaid (LE, $24.00) is pinker. Disney by Sephora Scuttle (LE) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #3 is a soft, light-medium pink with warm, yellow undertones and a satiny sheen. It had semi-sheer to semi-opaque color payoff when applied dry, and when applied with a dampened brush, it was fully opaque. The powder was soft and finely-milled, and it applied smoothly. It wore well for almost eight hours on before it showed signs of fading. Too Faced Too-Too (LE, $16.00) is warmer. Urban Decay Minor Sin (LE, $18.00) is lighter. MAC Pink Frontier (P, $21.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #4 is a deep black with subtle, warm undertones and a satin finish. It had semi-opaque pigmentation when applied dry, and then it was intensely pigmented when applied with a dampened brush. The color wore well for eight and a half hours before it seemed to fade around the edges slightly. It’s a very basic color, though certainly a nice iteration, so there are a fair number of similar shades — see comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Jardin Zen

A-

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

Jardin Zen #1

B

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Jardin Zen #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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