Sunday, February 22nd, 2015

NARS Adoration Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Adoration Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Adoration Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is one of six duos that will be available on March 4th. The lighter shade was best applied dry, as damp application resulted in such a metallic finish that it was more like a flashing, neon sign that said, “Hey, my skin isn’t perfect! I have pores! And texture!” The darker shade ended up becoming much, much more pigmented when applied damp, but it become too shimmery, and it lasted longer that way. It was easier to apply, blend, and control applied dry, though, and coverage was buildable so greater intensity was achievable with two or three passes. Wear time is fairly good regardless of application method, but I get slightly longer results with a damp application. The texture is firm, but smooth, and it doesn’t feel dry or stiff, but it seems to have a firmer press overall.

The formula is supposed to have a “weightless, luxurious texture” that can be used wet or dry. The wet application is supposed to give a “translucent wash of color,” while dry application yields “a natural glow that warms the complexion.” If you’ve tried MAC Extra Dimension Blush and MAC Extra Dimension Skinfinish, the formulas are similar. Estee Lauder, Lancome, and Laura Mercier have all done cheek products with a similar wet/dry kind of formula.

Nearly across the board, there was either negligible color payoff difference between wet and dry applications, but when there was a difference, it was typically much more pigmented. The shades tended to apply with a more metallic/shimmery finish when applied with a dampened brush and emphasized pores. The fact that it was more pigmented applied damp may be great news for some, but it is the opposite of how the formula was described (which is how I rate products), so you will see that have a negative impact on the ratings. It is interesting that it was described as a wash when applied wet, as this is the opposite of the Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow formula.

With the new blush formula, NARS also added a Wet/Dry Blush Brush to their assortment of brushes. I’m trying to give the brush more chances, but I had great difficulty using it with their formula, particularly wet, where it tended to lift the product and leave the results looking patchy, even over bare skin. With enough effort and a very, barely-there touch and some fingertip blending, I could manage fairly even color over bare skin. However, it was impossible to use over a liquid foundation, as it moved and lifted the foundation in places. I far preferred using MAC’s 159 stippling brush, which worked well for both wet and dry applications. Ultra-soft brushes by Chikuhodo and SUQQU didn’t pick-up product well with this formula. Some of the deeper shades do work with those feathery, ultra-soft brushes.

Adoration (Left) is described as a “sparkling baby pink.” It’s a light-medium pink with subtle, warm undertones and white shimmer and slightly larger silver-white sparkle. The texture was firm but smooth with semi-opaque color coverage dry and mostly opaque coverage damp. It had more of a frosted finish when it was applied dry, and it very slightly emphasized pores but for the most impart imparted a high-shine sheen and lasted for seven and a half hours. When I applied it damp, it was much more metallic and emphasized every pore and imperfection, but it wore well for eight and a half hours. The effect can be luminous without being emphasized by patting translucent or flesh-colored powder over it. MAC Just a Wisp (P, $27.00) is less shimmery. Makeup Geek First Love (P, $9.99) is less shimmery, cooler-toned. MAC For Your Amusement (LE, $20.00) is less shimmery. MAC Azalea in the Afternoon (LE, $27.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Physicians Formula Rose (P, $11.99) is warmer. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is less shimmery, lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Adoration (Right) is described as a “shimmering hot pink.” It’s a medium-dark pink with subtle, cool undertones and a satiny sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer and buildable, with a more satin-like finish that gave the skin a lovely glow that didn’t draw attention to pores, and it lasted for eight hours on me. Applied damp, it was intensely pigmented with nearly opaque coverage from the get-go, and you’ll want to apply the smallest amount and build-up, or else you’ll have a lot of work ahead of you. The dampened application intensifies the sheen, but it doesn’t turn metallic, so it still gives a glow without emphasizing the texture of the skin, and applied this way, the blush lasted for nine hours. Makeup Geek Love Affair (P, $9.99) is warmer. MAC Peaches & Cream (LE, $21.00) is similar. MAC Sunset Beach (LE, $32.00) is similar. YSL Fuchsia Desinvolte (01) (P, $40.00) is less shimmery. Clinique Berry Pop (03) (P, $21.00) is brighter, cooler-toned. Illamasqua Peaked (P, $26.00) is more muted. Chanel Affinite (65) (P, $38.00) is lighter. Tom Ford Beauty Wicked (P, $55.00) is cooler-toned, more muted. Tom Ford Beauty Narcissist (LE, $55.00) is cooler-toned. NYX Bourgeois Pig (P, $5.00) is less shimmery. MAC Supernova (LE, $27.00) is similar. See comparison swatchesview dupes.

P.S. — I am testing the wet and dry application for each shade, so one duo is the equivalent of testing four blushes, and while I will work diligently through the six, I may not get be able to test all of them before the official release date (it really depends on how long each shade wears and whether I can test more than one shade per cheek per day!)–just as a heads up.

The Glossover

P
palette

Adoration

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Adoration (Left)

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Adoration (Right)

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, February 19th, 2015

Laura Mercier Watercolour Mist Eye & Cheek Palette
Laura Mercier Watercolour Mist Eye & Cheek Palette

Laura Mercier Watercolour Mist Eye & Cheek Palette ($58.00 for 0.332 oz.) contains six eyeshadows and two cheek colors. Everything about this palette was a disappointment. It’s a bit like wearing a bunch of faded, barely-there eyeshadows that just make your natural lid look muddied, dreary, and powdery. Both cheek colors were stiff and required a spatula to scrape off color to get anything to show up in a swatch, but I couldn’t get either to visibly appear on my cheeks. The eyeshadows are very soft and powdery, and unfortunately, most of them blend away to poor versions of themselves in practice. I was a bit surprised, because it swatched better than anticipated, but it was a mess trying to use this. The only way to salvage it would be use to a white, tacky/creamy base. The only nice thing about this is the packaging, which has “water’ droplets on the exterior (exactly like MAC’s Alluring Aquatic collection).

Mist is a muted, light-medium green-teal with strong gray and cool undertones. It had a satin finish. It had decent color payoff but was so soft that it sheered out to semi-sheer coverage. It was noticeably faded after five hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Fog is a light-medium, khaki green with subtle, warm undertones and a satin finish. The texture was soft yet powdery enough that it tended to blend away to a rather sheer, faded color applied to the lid in practice. It wore well for five and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Storm is a muted, overcast green with subtle, warmer undertones and a satin finish. It had semi-opaque color coverage but was prone to sheering out to a very faded, sheerer version of itself. It only wore well for six hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Wind is a soft, muted pink-lavender with hints of gray and a subtle, warmer undertone and a matte finish. The color payoff was mostly opaque, but it had a somewhat powdery texture that made it difficult to keep at that intensity–it wanted to sheer out almost instantly. It lasted for six hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Purple Rain is a cool-toned, purple-gray with a semi-matte finish. It had so-so pigmentation with a soft texture that was somewhat powdery. It was faded within six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Cloud is a muted, medium-dark gray with cool undertones and a matte finish. It was powdery, semi-sheer, and lasted a mere five hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Sunset (Cheek Color) is a pink-peach with subtle warm undertones and a satin finish. I had to chip away at the pan’s surface to dislodge product with a metal spatula, because the surface was so firm and hard that it nearly felt like plastic. What I managed to scrape away ended up being chalky, powdery, and dry. I couldn’t get it to show up on my skin tone, but I did see a slightly chalky cast in person, though it seemed to disappear nearly instantly, because it was gone less than an hour later. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Earth (Cheek Color) is a medium-dark reddish brown with a satin finish. It had a similarly hard surface that required scraping to get any product out of it for swatching. It was powdery, dry, prone to fading, and incredibly difficult to blend on the skin. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Watercolour Mist

F

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

4.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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LE
product

Mist

D+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

8.6/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Fog

C

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, February 16th, 2015

Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie (248) Mutli-Effect Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie (248) Mutli-Effect Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie (248) Mutli-Effect Eyeshadow Quad ($61.00 for 0.07 oz.) is a new, limited edition set of shades inspired by the “graceful world of ballet.” It’s a cooler-toned palette that features a cool pink, iridescent pink-white, violet, and taupe brown. The palette lacked pigmentation when used dry; the formula had to be used with a dampened brush to achieve more true-to-pan color, but even then, three of the four shades would fade as the product dried down (within minutes of initial application).

Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie #1 is a light-medium pink with strong, cool undertones and a frosted finish. It was semi-sheer applied dry, and it was fully opaque if I used it with a dampened brush. The texture was soft and smooth, while the color wore well for eight hours. Dior House of Pinks #3 (LE) is darker, less shimmery. Make Up For Ever ME866 Frosted Pink (P, $21.00) is brighter. Make Up For Ever I864 Baby Pink (P, $21.00) is darker. Milani Bella Pink (13) (P, $4.49) is lighter. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #5 (LE, $16.00) is warmer, darker. Urban Decay Coax (LE, $18.00) is darker. MAC Pinkluxe #1 (P) is more shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie #2 is a pink-tinted, cool-toned white with a frosted sheen. Again, it was sheer when applied dry, and it was mostly opaque when I applied it using a dampened brush. Too Faced Pink Frosting (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery. It wore well for seven and a half hours. MAC Harpooned Heart (LE, $15.00) is warmer. Make Up For Ever I902 Quartz (P, $21.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever I872 Pearly Pink (P, $21.00) is similar. Milani Bella Pink (13) (P, $4.49) is darker. MAC Violet Blend #1 (LE) is darker. Tarina Tarantino Diamond Dusk #2 (LE) is similar. Tom Ford Beauty Seductive Rose #1 (P) is warmer. Tom Ford Beauty Enchanted #1 (LE) is similar. MAC Fresh & Mint #2 (P, $21.00) is cooler-toned. MAC Young Venus (LE, $19.50) is darker. Dior Garden Pastels #3 (LE) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie #3 is a muted, medium-dark purple with subtle warm undertones and a pearly sheen. It had semi-sheer color payoff applied dry, which intensified to slightly more opaque color when applied with a dampened brush. The texture was smooth, but it was a little dry and looked it on the lid. When I applied it damp, the color would fade back to the way it looked dry within a few minutes. It lasted for seven and a half hours. Urban Decay Hoodoo (LE, $18.00) is more shimmery. Milani Bella Purple (15) (P, $4.49) is warmer. NARS Jardin Perdu (Right) (LE, $24.00) is cooler-toned. Ulta Purple (P, $10.00) is darker. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #6 (LE, $16.00) is similar. Sleek MakeUP Bliss in Barcelona (LE, $9.99) is brighter, cooler-toned. Tom Ford Beauty Lavender Lust #2 (P) is lighter. Urban Decay Voodoo (LE, $18.00) is darker, cooler-toned. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Tease #1 (P) is darker. theBalm Lavish Latoya (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. Urban Decay Rapture (LE, $18.00) is warmer. Urban Decay ACDC (P, $18.00) is lighter, cooler-toned. Dior Garden Roses #3 (LE) is warmer. bareMinerals Encore (P) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie #4 is a muted, dark brown with strong charcoal gray undertones and a golden sheen paired with very fine multi-colored shimmer. It was a surprisingly complex shade, and it’s such a shame that the rest of the quad wasn’t better. This shade had semi-opaque pigmentation when I tried using it dry, and it had full coverage when I used it damp. It wore well for eight hours. Tom Ford Beauty Ripe Plum (Right) (LE) is warmer, darker. MAC Cinder (Left) (LE) is lighter. Chanel Poesie #4 (LE) is cooler-toned. Stila Substance (P) is lighter, warmer. LORAC Chrome (P) is lighter. MAC Silver Dawn (LE, $19.50) is lighter, warmer. Dior Millenium (381) (P, $31.00) is lighter, warmer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Tisse Rhapsodie (248)

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Tisse Rhapsodie #1

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Tisse Rhapsodie #2

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, February 16th, 2015

Tom Ford Beauty Crushed Indigo Eye Color Duo
Tom Ford Beauty Crushed Indigo Eye Color Duo

Tom Ford Beauty Crushed Indigo Eye Color Duo ($60.00 for 0.13 oz.) consists of a white with a bluish iridescence and a blackened navy blue. I want to like it, but I find the lighter shade can be finicky to apply, as it tended to thicken and bunch up (almost flake off from the pan) when used damp. If used dry, the color payoff was sheerer and less metallic, but dry application was the most forgiving. The darker shade was easy to use either damp or dry, and it remained blendable even when applied with a dampened brush.

Crushed Indigo (Left) is a brightened white with a blue iridescence that gives it a cool-toned, bluish-violet sheen. It had a metallic finish. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer, and applied damp, it was semi-opaque. The product would thicken and clump together when applied with a damp brush if you weren’t careful. It lasted for eight hours before fading. Urban Decay Roadstripe (LE, $18.00) is similar. Makeup Geek Ice Queen (P, $5.99) is less iridescent. Make Up For Ever ME122 Snow (P, $21.00) is brighter. Make Up For Ever D200 Crystalline Mauve Turquoise (P, $21.00) is similar. theBalm A3 (LE, $16.00) is grayer. Disney by Sephora Sick of Swimmin’ (LE) is less metallic. Tom Ford Beauty Cobalt Rush #1 (P) is less metallic. MAC Crystal Avalanche (P, $15.00) is less metallic. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Crushed Indigo (Right) is a blackened navy blue with lighter and darker blue shimmer for a soft, frosted finish. The texture was soft but a little dry, and the color payoff was semi-opaque to opaque (dry to damp), but it was a very buildable formula. On the skin, it was blendable and easy to work with. The color wore well for nine hours before fading. Guerlain Les Nuees #1 (LE) is less shimmery. MAC Vivacious Vacuum Cleaner Bag (LE, $15.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever ME224 Navy Blue (P, $21.00) is brighter. NARS Giove (P, $29.00) is warmer. NARS Ubangi (P, $25.00) is a cream product. Dior Cosmos (281) (P, $31.00) is warmer, cream product. Disney by Sephora Midnight (LE) is similar. Clinique Massively Midnight (P, $17.00) is brighter, lighter. Tom Ford Beauty Emerald Lust #4 (LE) is brighter, lighter. Urban Decay Goddess (LE, $18.00) ios similar. MAC Lunar (LE, $19.50) is brighter, lighter. bareMinerals Shaken Not Stirred (P) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Crushed Indigo

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Crushed Indigo (Left)

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Crushed Indigo (Right)

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes

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Thursday, February 12th, 2015

Tom Ford Beauty Ripe Plum Eye Color Duo
Tom Ford Beauty Ripe Plum Eye Color Duo

Tom Ford Beauty Ripe Plum Eye Color Duo ($60.00 for 0.13 oz.) consists of a iridescent opal and deeper burgundy-brown. I like the concept, and the two colors work well off of each other, as when you blend them together, they create a lighter, iridescent plum shade, but they both have room for improvement.

Ripe Plum (Left) is an iridescent pink-tinted white with a frosted, slightly metallic finish. It had a more frosted finish when applied dry, and the color payoff was mostly opaque. Applied damp, it was smoother and more pigmented with a stronger sheen. The texture was soft, blendable, and easy to use, but I thought it could apply more smoothly when used damp as it tended to bunch up and look almost clumpy applied. On me, it lasted for nine hours before creasing slightly. Urban Decay Roadstripe (LE, $18.00) is cooler-toned. Make Up For Ever I902 Quartz (P, $21.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever I872 Pearly Pink (P, $21.00) is pinker. NARS Cassiopeia (P, $29.00) is cooler-toned. Tom Ford Beauty Seductive Rose #1 (P) is not quite as iridescent. Tom Ford Beauty Enchanted #1 (LE) is lighter. MAC Opalesse (LE, $19.50) is cooler-toned. MAC Ready to Party (LE, $19.50) is slightly cooler-toned. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Ripe Plum (Right) is a dark, burgundy brown with subtle, warm undertones and a frosted finish. Applied dry, it appeared warmer with a softer finish, but it was less pigmented, too. Applied with a dampened brush, the color went with intense color coverage and a smoother sheen. The color is buildable dry, so opaque color can be achieved without having to use it wet, but I found it to look a little dry-looking when used dry (a spirtz of water or a fixing spray can help, though). It wore well for nine hours on me before fading. Giorgio Armani Senso (10) (P, $38.00) is a liquid, warmer. Sephora + Pantone Universe Red Mahogany (LE) is lighter, warmer. Dior Cuir Cannage #1 (P) is lighter. LORAC Granite (LE) is similar. Tarte Lavender Bubble Bath (LE) is cooler-toned. NARS Subra (P, $29.00) is cooler-toned, less shimmery. Urban Decay West (LE, $18.00) is warmer. Inglot #423 (P, $6.00) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Ripe Plum

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Ripe Plum (Left)

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Ripe Plum (Right)

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes

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Wednesday, February 11th, 2015

Tom Ford Beauty Raw Jade Eye Color Duo
Tom Ford Beauty Raw Jade Eye Color Duo

Tom Ford Beauty Raw Jade Eye Color Duo ($60.00 for 0.13 oz.) consists of a brighter, iridescent green-tinged white and a deeper, olive green. The formula can be used wet or dry, with dry application for a “sleek and soft finish” or “wet for a bold and chromatic finish.” It is similar to products like MAC In Extra Dimension, NARS Dual Intensity, Estee Lauder Gelee, and so forth.

Raw Jade (Left) is an iridescent green-tinted white with a metallic finish. It had mostly opaque coverage applied dry, but it appeared yellower/warmer. Applied with a dampened brush, it was more metallic and brighter. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and fairly smooth, but it didn’t apply as smoothly as it could have. The color started to fade after nine hours of wear. MAC Fresh Blade (LE, $15.00) is less metallic. LORAC Unlocked (P) is yellower. LORAC Opal (LE) is lighter. Make Up For Ever D416 Crystalline Yellow (P, $21.00) is less green. Make Up For Ever D316 Crystalline Pinky Green (P, $21.00) is greener. Dior Dulcinee #2 (LE) is similar. MAC Zestful (LE, $19.50) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Raw Jade (Right) is a medium-dark olive green with warm, khaki undertones and a frosted finish. It applied very much the same whether used dry or wet, though it was a smidgen more metallic damp. It had excellent color payoff with a really smooth, silky texture that blended well on the skin. The color wore well without fading for nine and a half hours. Giorgio Armani Green Iron (06) (P, $38.00) is a liquid product. Hourglass Color Field #4 (P) is similar. Sephora + Pantone Universe Dusty Olive (LE) is similar. Makeup Geek Jester (P, $9.99) is brighter, lighter. theBalm Kawabunga (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Make Up For Ever I328 Bronze (P, $21.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever I324 Bronze Khaki (P, $21.00) is lighter. Makeup Geek Kryptonite (P, $6.99) is lighter. Urban Decay Stash (LE, $18.00) is similar. Urban Decay Mildew (P, $18.00) is lighter. bareMinerals Eureka (P) is darker. bareMinerals Speaker Box (LE) is darker. Inglot #419 (P, $6.00) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
product

Raw Jade

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

Raw Jade (Left)

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Raw Jade (Right)

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes

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