Saturday, March 7th, 2015

NARS Jubilation Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Jubilation Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Jubilation Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a warm-toned duo that is for those who love shimmer and metallic finishes. The texture of both shades is a bit firmer, so using ultra-soft brushes may get you poor results (e.g. blue squirrel haired brushes don’t work well, but goat hair and synthetic brushes worked fine). The color payoff was good regardless of dry or damp application, though the shimmer in the finishes was amplified when I used the shades damp. The “translucent wash of color” for damp application continues to elude me–I get nothing but intense color (and my brush is lightly misted, not sopping wet!). I would recommend a duo fiber brush like MAC’s 159 for applying these damp, rather than NARS’ own brush, as the damp application easily lifts base products and/or moves the brush around together while lifting it from place to place rather than blending it out, and I’ve had the best luck with the duo fiber brushes as they swirl without lifting the best. Damp application is a lot more work, because it is quite fussy.

Jubilation (Left) is described as a “sparkling yellow gold highlighter.” It’s a brightened, light-medium yellow gold with warm undertones and a metallic finish. It is actually rather metallic whether it is used dry or wet, though it is even more metallic when used wet and the pigmentation is richer. It emphasized pores very slightly when applied dry, and it lasted for seven hours. When I tested it with a dampened application, it definitely made my pores look bigger and skin more textured, and it wore well for eight hours.
NARS Frenzy (Left) (P) is much lighter. Dior Transatlantique (LE, $58.00) is similar. MAC Centre of Attention (Inner) (LE, $30.00) is similar. Guerlain Terracotta Sun in the City Illuminating Powder (LE, $70.00) is darker. Chanel Or (LE, $45.00) is lighter. bareMinerals The Shining Moment (LE, $26.00) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Jubilation (Right) is described as a “shimmering soft nude peach.” It’s a softened peachy-orange with a warm, golden metallic sheen. It had rich color payoff regardless of wet or dry application, but a wet application brought out the metallic shimmer and also tended to give it a chunkier, more textured look (the powder seemed thicker). Applied dry, it illuminated the skin and added warmth without emphasizing the skin’s natural texture and lasted for seven hours. Applied damp, it was thicker and more metallic, which amplified pores and my skin’s texture but wore well for eight hours. NYX Beach Babe (P, $6.50) is darker. Laura Mercier Rosegold Shimmer (LE) is less shimmery. Becca Guava/Moonstone (P, $27.00) is a cream product. MAC Fairly Precious (LE, $30.00) is lighter. bareMinerals The Many Splendors #3 (LE) is darker. MAC Perfectly Poised (Outer) (LE, $30.00) is darker. Becca Rose Gold (LE, $38.00) is less warm-toned, less metallic. MAC Trace Gold (P, $21.00) is very similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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Jubilation

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Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Jubilation (Left)

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Jubilation (Right)

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Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Friday, March 6th, 2015

MAC Moving Sand Eyeshadow Duo
MAC Moving Sand Eyeshadow Duo

MAC Moving Sand Eyeshadow Duo ($22.00 for 0.09 oz.) is one of three neutral duos in the upcoming Julia Petit collaboration collection. This is the last duo, and it is another instance where one shade is nice and one is hard to use. It’s an interesting pairing of colors/textures, but the quality is just missing in the black shade–it’s so difficult to blend.

Mumu is described as a “soft nude brown [with a Matte finish].” It’s a muted, medium-dark ochre brown with warm, yellow undertones and a matte finish. The texture was so soft and smooth that it felt creamy, even though it was a powder product. It had good pigmentation with a blendable, easy-to-use formula that wore well for eight hours before fading slightly. LORAC Undeniable (P) is lighter. Sephora + Pantone Universe Carob Brown (LE) is less yellow. Too Faced Mousse (P, $16.00) is less yellow. Makeup Geek Preppy (P, $5.99) is similar. Anastasia Caramel (P, $12.00) is warmer, more orange. Makeup Geek Desert Sands (LE, $5.99) is warmer. Make Up For Ever M660 Speculous (P, $21.00) is similar. LORAC Nude #4 (LE) is darker. MAC Uninterrupted (P, $21.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Outre (LE, $15.00) is warmer, slightly darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Noite is described as a “black with pearl [with a Lustre finish].” It’s a dark black with silver sparkle. It had semi-sheer color coverage, which is actually the pigmentation level that Lustres are supposed to have. I found it was buildable if you wanted a deeper, more opaque black. The texture is really dry and thin, which made it incredibly hard to blend; it always looked streaky, uneven, and just dry applied to the lid. It lasted for seven and a half hours, but there was fall out from the sparkle in the shade. Urban Decay Scorpio (P, $20.00) is sparklier. Colour Pop Friskie (P, $5.00) is a cream product, has more sparkle. Guerlain Cygne Noir #1 (LE) is lighter. Kat Von D Black Star (LE) is less sparkly. Make Up For Ever D104 Black Diamond (P, $21.00) has more sparkles, darker. MAC Tonight’s Temptation #2 (LE, $21.00) is darker. Too Faced Starry Night (LE, $16.00) is similar. Too Faced Pure Glam (LE, $16.00) is similar. Urban Decay Oil Slick (P, $18.00) has more sparkles. MAC Dark Soul (P, $21.00) is similar. MAC Black Tied (P, $15.00) is similar. Chanel Mirifique (P, $36.00) is a cream product. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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Moving Sand

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Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
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Mumu

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Noite

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Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

3.5/5

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Friday, March 6th, 2015

MAC Morganite Eyeshadow Duo
MAC Morganite Eyeshadow Duo

MAC Morganite Eyeshadow Duo ($22.00 for 0.09 oz.) is one of three neutral duos in the upcoming Julia Petit collaboration collection. It’s always disappointing when one shade out-performs the other, because it’s hard to justify a duo when half of it is less than stellar. The lighter shade is a drier, more glittery shade that is hard to apply without a tacky base to help it adhere to the skin. The darker shade has such a beautiful, workable texture, and again, the combination of shades could easily work well.

Sunstoned is described as a “soft pink champagne [with a Lustre finish].” It’s a light, golden beige with warm undertones and a frosted, sparkly finish. It had sheer coverage (which is more in line with the type of finish it is) with a dry, thin texture, but it didn’t have as gritty of a feel as Druzy, though it has similar issues such as poor adhesion to bare skin and fall out (during wear as well as during application). It lasted for six hours on me and had a significant amount of fall out over time. Giorgio Armani #10 (P, $32.00) is similar. MAC Natural Vigor #1 (LE, $21.00) is less sparkly. Dior Golden Shock #5 (LE) is less shimmery. Anastasia Blush (LE, $12.00) is lighter. MAC Faire Maiden (LE, $15.00) is darker, less sparkly. Too Faced Nutmeg (LE, $16.00) is darker. Stila Kitten (P) is less glittery. Dior Sundeck #2 (LE) is less glittery. Maybelline Beige-ing Beauty (85) (LE, $6.99) is a cream product. MAC Until Dawn #2 (LE, $21.00) is sparkly. Sleek MakeUP Meet in Madrid (LE, $9.99) is darker. Too Faced Moon on Their Wings (LE, $16.00) is more glittery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Choco Cake is described as a “dark chocolate [with a Matte finish].” It’s a muted, medium-dark brown with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. The texture was really soft, smooth, and almost creamy with how finely-milled and velvety the powder was. It had semi-opaque color coverage, but it went on evenly and was buildable to opaque color. I found this really blendable and more like MAC’s Matte2 finish than their typical matte finish–a major plus. It wore well for eight hours on me before fading. Hourglass Infinity #4 (P) is lighter. Kat Von D Orion (LE) is cooler-toned, more shimmery. Anastasia Chocolate (P, $12.00) is similar. Too Faced Chocolate Cake (LE, $16.00) is yellower. Make Up For Ever M630 Sweet Chestnut (P, $21.00) is lighter. Chanel Charming #4 (LE) is darker. MAC Swiss Chocolate (P, $15.00) is similar. MAC Ground Brown (P, $15.00) is redder. MAC Cross-Cultural (LE, $15.00) is similar. Inglot #327 (P, $6.00) is slightly darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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Morganite

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Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Sunstoned

C-

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

4/5

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Choco Cake

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, March 5th, 2015

MAC Sagu Eyeshadow Duo
MAC Sagu Eyeshadow Duo

MAC Sagu Eyeshadow Duo ($22.00 for 0.09 oz.) is one of three neutral duos in the upcoming Julia Petit collaboration collection. This duo’s downfall is just how poor the lighter shade is, which is owed a lot to the fact that it is a Lustre finish–one of MAC’s weakest finishes/formulas in their eyeshadow range. I wonder why MAC doesn’t make their “Lustre” finish their Pressed Pigments, since at least those have some adhesive quality. Most Lustres need to be used over a glitter adhesive or over a tacky, cream base (preferably something with a base color or is white). I think the idea of these two shades together could have been beautiful and easily a go-to for some, but the quality of the eyeshadows leaves something to be desired.

Druzy is described as a “dirty mauvy purple [with a Lustre finish].” It has a cool-toned, mauvy taupe base with copper and gold flecks of sparkle. This is an old school Lustre that’s a total pain to work with, because it’s a mess and rains sparkle/glitter all over your face and applies virtually no color. Since nothing adhered to the skin, I had to use it damp (even though it will cause the top layer to harden–Lustres, due to their dryness, seem very prone to hardening over time through oils on fingertips/brushes and are unforgiving if you use them with a damp brush) to even get anything to stick to the skin. The texture is dry, gritty, and there was no color or sparkle left after four hours. It had very sheer color payoff, and it was sheer by even Lustre standards (which is a sheerer finish with more sparkle). The color looks so promising in the pan–if only it was a Veluxe Pearl! It’s hard to “dupe” this since there’s little base color to replicate, but here are two possibilities that seemed like what you might have expected in a swatch. MAC Force of Nature #2 (LE, $21.00) is far more opaque. MAC Frozen Violet (P, $18.50) is a cream product that leans purpler. See comparison swatches / no Dupe List available, as I really don’t think these are dupes.

Black Plum is described as a “deep blackened plum [with a Matte finish].” It’s a blackened burgundy with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had so-so color payoff, which I think applies better with a fluffy brush, but it is drier and harder to blend on the skin. It lasted for eight hours once applied. Anastasia Deep Plum (P, $12.00) is warmer. Tom Ford Beauty Orchid Haze #4 (P) is lighter. Too Faced Charming (LE, $16.00) is lighter. theBalm Presto (P, $16.00) is similar. MAC Shadowy Lady (P, $15.00) is slightly cooler-toned. bareMinerals Ensemble (LE) is a smidgen darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Sagu

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Product

4/10

Pigmentation

4/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

3/5

Results
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product

Druzy

F

Product

05/10

Pigmentation

1/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

3.5/10

Application

2/5

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Black Plum

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Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Thursday, March 5th, 2015

MAC Bao Bao's Jewels Eyeshadow Palette
MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels Eyeshadow Palette ($44.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a mix of warmer-toned neutrals with a splash of bluish-gray. I think this could have been such a great combo with a richer blue or emerald green (jewel tones!). In case you’re unfamiliar with MAC’s Veluxe Pearlfusion formula, it’s a wet/dry product where dry application results in “sheer coverage with a soft, sparkling finish,” while damp application results in “super saturation of colour with metallic brilliance.” Some shades are true to this, others are pigmented either way (which you may find is a good thing, depending on how you like to apply your eyeshadows). If you love a lot of sparkle or metallic finishes, you may like this formula, but it isn’t the easiest to work with as it tends to have a slightly dry texture that doesn’t bind together without a tacky base or damp application. The more sparkly shades tend to have some fall out during wear, though the color portions tend to wear eight to nine hours on me.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #1 is described as a “pale pink shimmer.” It’s a champagne beige with larger pink sparkle and glitter. This is a very glittery shade that is very dry, so it gets everywhere if you use it dry. When I used it with a damp brush, it was better, but it still had a lot of glittery fall out during application as well as during wear. The color part of it lasted for eight hours before creasing. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #2 is described as a “gold shimmer.” It’s a brightened, coppery gold with warm, brown undertones and a bright, metallic finish. It’s pretty pigmented regardless of dry or damp application, though dampened application is smoother and more brilliant. It wore well for eight and a half hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #3 is described as a “dark rose bronze.” It’s a coppery bronze brown with warm undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. This is another shade that was richly pigmented both wet and dry, which may be a happy accident for those who don’t want to have to use them damp to get the more opaque payoff, but it’s by no means “sheer” dry. The color wore well for nine hours but there was a bit of fall out from the sparkle in it. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #4 is described as a “dark brown with silver pearl.” It’s a taupe brown with warm, yellow undertones and and silver sparkle and smaller shimmers. It had semi-opaque coverage applied dry and fully opaque coverage applied damp, but the damp application makes it much easier to use, as it is smoother and the product holds together better. When I used it dry, the texture is drier and doesn’t bind as well, so there is a ton of fall out during application, and it just doesn’t wear as well dry for this shade–six hours with fall out–whereas damp application helps the powder bind and adhere to the skin and lasts eight hours with minor fall out. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Bao Bao’s Jewels #5 is described as a “steel grey shimmer.” It’s a cool-toned, medium-dark bluish-gray with a frosted, metallic sheen. It had sheer coverage applied dry (yay! just as described!) and mostly opaque when applied damp. This shade wore well for eight hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Bao Bao's Jewels

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Bao Bao's Jewels #1

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Bao Bao's Jewels #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Monday, March 2nd, 2015

NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a highlighter and bronzer duo. The two work together well, and when applied dry, they can be quite flattering on the skin, though dry application doesn’t have the best staying power. Both shades tended to emphasize the skin’s natural texture and any imperfections when applied with a damp brush, unfortunately, as the shimmery finishes intensified. To reiterate what I’ve mentioned in previous reviews: NARS describes the damp application as a sheer wash of color, but the reality is that this type of application yields deeper, richer, more opaque coverage than dry, and it also makes it harder to work with, as it doesn’t blend as readily as the formula does used dry.

Craving (Left) is described as a “sparkling seashell pink highlighter.” It’s a pink-tinged iridescent white with a metallic shimmer-sheen finish and cool undertones. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer with a frosted, metallic finish, which didn’t emphasize pores and lasted for seven hours on me. Applied damp, it was semi-opaque with a metallic sheen, which did emphasize pores and stayed on for eight hours before fading. NARS Devotee (LE, $29.00) is more sparkly. Urban Decay Luminous (P, $29.00) is less pink. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is darker, pinker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Craving (Right) is described as a “shimmering beachy bronze.” It’s a medium-dark orange brown with warm undertones and a gold shimmer. Applied dry, it had opaque color coverage that was fairly blendable and had a lovely satin sheen that didn’t emphasize pores. It wore well for seven hours this way before fading. When I tried to apply it with a dampened brush, the finish was more like a high frosted sheen, which did give my skin a more noticeable texture, though the color lasted for eight and a half hours. NYX Beach Babe (P, $6.50) is lighter. Bobbi Brown Bronze (LE, $45.00) is more muted. Urban Decay Strip Bronzer (P) is darker. MAC Alpine Bronze (LE, $27.00) is less shimmery. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Bikini Contest (P, $3.99) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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Craving

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Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Craving (Left)

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Craving (Right)

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Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes

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