Wednesday, February 11th, 2015

Tom Ford Beauty Raw Jade Eye Color Duo
Tom Ford Beauty Raw Jade Eye Color Duo

Tom Ford Beauty Raw Jade Eye Color Duo ($60.00 for 0.13 oz.) consists of a brighter, iridescent green-tinged white and a deeper, olive green. The formula can be used wet or dry, with dry application for a “sleek and soft finish” or “wet for a bold and chromatic finish.” It is similar to products like MAC In Extra Dimension, NARS Dual Intensity, Estee Lauder Gelee, and so forth.

Raw Jade (Left) is an iridescent green-tinted white with a metallic finish. It had mostly opaque coverage applied dry, but it appeared yellower/warmer. Applied with a dampened brush, it was more metallic and brighter. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and fairly smooth, but it didn’t apply as smoothly as it could have. The color started to fade after nine hours of wear. MAC Fresh Blade (LE, $15.00) is less metallic. LORAC Unlocked (P) is yellower. LORAC Opal (LE) is lighter. Make Up For Ever D416 Crystalline Yellow (P, $21.00) is less green. Make Up For Ever D316 Crystalline Pinky Green (P, $21.00) is greener. Dior Dulcinee #2 (LE) is similar. MAC Zestful (LE, $19.50) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Raw Jade (Right) is a medium-dark olive green with warm, khaki undertones and a frosted finish. It applied very much the same whether used dry or wet, though it was a smidgen more metallic damp. It had excellent color payoff with a really smooth, silky texture that blended well on the skin. The color wore well without fading for nine and a half hours. Giorgio Armani Green Iron (06) (P, $38.00) is a liquid product. Hourglass Color Field #4 (P) is similar. Sephora + Pantone Universe Dusty Olive (LE) is similar. Makeup Geek Jester (P, $9.99) is brighter, lighter. theBalm Kawabunga (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Make Up For Ever I328 Bronze (P, $21.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever I324 Bronze Khaki (P, $21.00) is lighter. Makeup Geek Kryptonite (P, $6.99) is lighter. Urban Decay Stash (LE, $18.00) is similar. Urban Decay Mildew (P, $18.00) is lighter. bareMinerals Eureka (P) is darker. bareMinerals Speaker Box (LE) is darker. Inglot #419 (P, $6.00) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
product

Raw Jade

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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Raw Jade (Left)

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Raw Jade (Right)

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Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, February 8th, 2015

MAC Stroke of Midnight Eyeshadow Palette
MAC Stroke of Midnight Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Stroke of Midnight Eyeshadow Palette ($44.00 for 0.25 oz.) includes six eyeshadows with a neutral theme. Five of the six eyeshadows are part of the permanent range, which may be a deal-breaker for long-time MAC fans. On the bright side, those five permanent eyeshadows are as good in the palette as they are individually. The only shade I had real trouble with was the limited edition color.

Each eyeshadow is 0.042 oz., which is slightly smaller than full size (0.05 oz.). Depending on how you want to calculate the value, if you take the equivalent price per ounce for single eyeshadows sold in pots, then the palette has a value of $80, and if you take the equivalent price per ounce for single eyeshadows sold in pans, then the palette has a value of $50 in eyeshadow + $10 for a palette to fit them in (since you can purchase five of the six shades in pan form, I think this comparison is the most useful).

Vapour is described as a “peach-pink with violet pearl [with a Velvet finish].” It’s an iridescent brightened white with a bluish sheen. It had decent color payoff, but it was one of the weaker shades in the palette with respect to intensity. It was buildable, and it was easy to work with otherwise as it blended well. The color started to fade after eight hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Phloof! is described as a “frosted off-white [with a Frost finish].” It’s a pinky-beige with subtle, neutral-to-warm undertones and a frosted finish. It had good pigmentation with a soft, buttery texture that applied evenly and blended well. The color wore well for eight hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Omega is described as a “soft muted beige-taupe [with a Matte finish].” It’s a medium brown with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It had excellent pigmentation that was really soft and finely-milled, which made it easy to blend on the skin. It started to fade after eight hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Quarry is described as a “soft muted plum-brown [with a Matte finish].” It’s a muted, medium plum with warm undertones and a matte finish. The texture was soft and silky, though a smidgen powdery, and the resulting color payoff was mostly opaque. This shade stayed on well for eight hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Satin Taupe is described as a “taupe with silver shimmer [with a Frost finish].” It’s a medium-dark taupe brown with warm undertones and a frosted, metallic sheen. The color payoff was excellent, while the texture was soft and smooth. It wore well for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Stroke of Midnight is described as a “black plum with sparkle pearl [with a Velvet finish].” It’s a blackened purple base (mostly black) with a dusting of multi-colored sparkle. It ends up looking mostly matte and like a soft, warm black applied, because the sparkles don’t really translate. The texture was a bit powdery and drier, and I found blending to be more troublesome, though not impossible. It lasted for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Stroke of Midnight

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Vapour

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Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Phloof!

A-

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, February 5th, 2015

NARS St-Paul-de-Vence Eyeshadow Duo
NARS St-Paul-de-Vence Eyeshadow Duo

NARS St-Paul-de-Vence Eyeshadow Duo ($35.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a mix of orange and medium brown, both warm-toned shades. These actually applied with more pigmentation when pressed onto the skin with a fingertip, as brushes seemed to make them apply more sheerly with a muted quality to them, but the satiny brown goes on unevenly with that type of application, so you might opt for sponge-tipped applicators or use a slightly tacky base. The duo goes together, though there isn’t a lot of contrast, so it may be too subtle together for some.

St-Paul-de-Vence (Left) is described as a “shimmering nectarine.” It’s a brightened peachy-orange with a frosted finish and warm undertones. It applied fairly well with good color payoff, but there’s a dryness to the shade overall that seemed to make it look more muted on the lid. It was noticeably faded after seven hours of wear. Makeup Geek In the Spotlight (P, $9.99) is more shimmery, lighter. LORAC Apricot (LE) is darker. Giorgio Armani Organica (Right) (LE) is yellower. Make Up For Ever I722 Mandarin (P, $21.00) is darker, less shimmery. Chanel Tisse Vendome #3 (P) is more muted. Too Faced Marzipan (P, $16.00) is darker, less orange. Clarins The Essentials #3 (LE) is lighter. Makeup Geek Cinderella (P, $5.99) is darker. LORAC Light Bronze (P) is lighter. Urban Decay Moonflower (P, $18.00) is slightly darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

St-Paul-de-Vence (Right) is described as a “chestnut.” It’s a medium brown with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had good pigmentation, but the texture was a little powdery and dry, so it tended to sheer out and fade more readily. It only lasted for seven hours on me. Make Up For Ever S706 Milk Toffee (P, $21.00) is warmer, lighter. Make Up For Ever S604 Teak (P, $21.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever S602 Cinnamon (P, $21.00) is darker. MAC Plum Ember (LE, $15.00) is darker. MAC Femme Fatale (LE, $15.00) is warmer. Sisley Paris Toffee (7) (P, $47.00) is darker. Makeup Geek Country Girl (P, $5.99) is darker. theBalm C4 (LE, $16.00) is darker. MAC One to Watch (P, $21.00) is similar. MAC Glimpse of Flesh (LE, $15.00) is more shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

St-Paul-de-Vence

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
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St-Paul-de-Vence (Left)

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

St-Paul-de-Vence (Right)

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, February 2nd, 2015

Hourglass Modernist Eyeshadow Palettes

Hourglass Modernist Eyeshadow Palettes ($58.00 for 0.175 oz. each) debuted this spring as a new formula from the brand. There are seven variations, and each palette has five different shades. I didn’t like any of them, and I would never use any of these again personally, because they’re just far too time-consuming to work with. I’m a fan of Hourglass, and I loved their previous eyeshadow duos (some of the best eyeshadows on the market), so I was incredibly surprised to have such a poor experience with their newest formula.

The main problem with the formula is that it is so soft and finely-milled that it turns powdery, sometimes chalky, and doesn’t hold together well. In turn, that powderiness translates to poorer color payoff, poorer adhesion, and shorter wear times. The eyeshadow tends to dust off the skin without a tackier base to hold it there. Many shades sheer away to some degree with a few sheering away to near nothingness. Some of them are drier, some may be powdery but blend poorly. Even if you prefer a softer or sheerer look, you can easily achieve the same look with hundreds of other products that are easier to use.

Report Card

Sunday, February 1st, 2015

Hourglass Obscura Modernist Eyeshadow Palette
Hourglass Obscura Modernist Eyeshadow Palette

Hourglass Obscura Modernist Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 for 0.17 oz.) is supposed to be a mix of “earth tones.” It’s consistent with the other palettes I’ve reviewed: disappointing. The texture of the eyeshadows is absolutely soft and finely-milled, but those positive characteristics are outweighed by how dusty and powdery the end result is. These are frustrating to use; they are not effortless, and half of the time, despite being so soft, they don’t go on smoothly, tend to look uneven, and require some elbow grease to blend. I also noticed that this particular palette seemed to have more overlap with the other palettes (but it could just be that it is last to be reviewed).

Obscura #1 is described as a “cream.” It’s a yellowed, light beige with warm undertones and a satin-matte finish–there’s a little sheen there. The texture was soft, finely-milled but quite powdery, which made it prone to sheering out. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Obscura #2 is described as a “smokey brown.” It’s a dark brown with subtle, warm yellow undertones and a mostly matte finish. It was very powdery, so very little of the powder actually stuck to the skin, which made it appear sheer and uneven. The texture may feel silky to the touch, but it is much harder to use in practice. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Obscura #3 is described as a “rose gold.” It’s a golden copper-bronze with warm undertones and a metallic finish. It’s not rose gold to me, as it is has far too much brown in it. It had good pigmentation both wet and dry, though it was easier to get smooth, even color and longer wear when I applied it with a dampened brush. Dry, it only lasted for seven hours, but dampened, it lasted closer to eight hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Obscura #4 is described as a “coffee.” It’s a dark brown with subtle warm undertones and a satin finish. It had semi-sheer color payoff that went on unevenly–it looked patchy and was difficult to diffuse and blend–while the color itself wore for seven hours before fading. The texture was powdery and didn’t want to bind/adhere to the skin. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Obscura #5 is described as a “cool bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, golden brown with a metallic sheen. The texture was somewhat dry, a little powdery, but it is workable on the lid when used with a dampened brush. The color payoff is good both wet and dry, but it just was so much easier to work with when it came to blending and getting even, smooth color when I tried using it with a dampened brush. Once on, it lasted for seven hours dry, eight hours damp. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Obscura

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Obscura #1

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Obscura #2

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Product

6/10

Pigmentation

4.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, January 29th, 2015

Dior House of Pinks Eyeshadow Palette
Dior House of Pinks Eyeshadow Palette

Dior House of Pinks Eyeshadow Palette ($63.00 for 0.24 oz.) is a pink-hued palette with five shades ranging from pink-tinted ivory to mauve. Despite having continual poor luck with the quality in Dior’s palettes, I remain a glutton for punishment and bought both of the new spring palettes. I wasn’t impressed with House of Pinks due to its drier, unforgiving texture–it made my entire lid space look dry. I thought Monochrome was frustrating to work with (I tested both simultaneously, one on each eye), but Monochrome didn’t emphasize texture nearly as much, despite being more powdery (I guess that’s the where the silkiness came into play). The consistency of the eyeshadows was generally firmer and drier, while the color payoff ranged from semi-sheer to semi-opaque. They were harder to apply to bare skin, as they didn’t want to stick, and only one shade performed decently. It’s yet another palette that reminds me of why Dior’s palettes are a “look but don’t touch” situation more often than not. Dior palettes are best at inspiring me to try a new color combination, but I should know better by now to create it with anything but Dior’s own palette.

House of Pinks #1 is a gold-shimmered, pink-white with a frosted finish. It had a dustiness to it that made it a pain to work with, and it seemed to really be one of the worst offenders when it came to exacerbating the texture of my natural lid (which looks fine with the majority of the eyeshadows I have ever used). It lasted for five and a half hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

House of Pinks #2 is a pale, pink-tinted white with a matte finish. It was semi-sheer with a very powdery, dusty texture that was prone to fading and didn’t apply evenly. It lasted for five hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

House of Pinks #3 is a brightened pop of cool-toned, light-medium pink with a pearly sheen. It had semi-sheer color payoff but was rather dusty and almost chalky, and it barely showed up on the lid. It really needed to be pressed into the skin and packed on for any visible color, but none of it stuck. It just seemed to fade immediately. The washed-out version of it that remained after the initial five minutes stayed in its sad state for six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

House of Pinks #4 is a mauve-y taupe brown with warm undertones and a metallic sheen. It had good pigmentation with a slightly firm, dry texture. It lasted for seven hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

House of Pinks #5 is a dark, eggplant purple with subtle, warm brown undertones and a soft, frosted finish. It had semi-sheer color payoff with a drier, dustier texture that applied unevenly. It creased after six hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

House of Pinks

D+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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House of Pinks #1

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Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

House of Pinks #2

D-

Product

5.5/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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