Wednesday, January 14th, 2015

Urban Decay Vice LTD Eyeshadow Palette
Urban Decay Vice LTD Eyeshadow Palette

Urban Decay Vice LTD Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 for 0.60 oz.) is a mix of neutrals with a few pops of color, but the contents aren’t nearly as bright as the exterior packaging, which is a vibrant chartreuse. The packaging is very much the same as Vice3. I thought the formula felt different in Vice LTD compared to Vice3 but also compared to Urban Decay’s formula (since reformulation) in general. The eyeshadows felt a bit firmer in their pans (not in a bad way), less powdery in general. The more colorful shades seemed weaker in color payoff, and I didn’t have as much luck with some shades applying to bare skin as I have in the past with the brand’s formula, so wear time was shorter on average. I liked it more than Vice3, though, by a bit. Disco, Heat, Floss, Hoodoo, and Roadstripe are shades new-to-me (I believe Roadstripe existed many, many moons ago), while the other shades have been released in various palettes over the years (noted by the shade itself).

It will be re-releasing exclusively on ULTA on January 25th.

Nameless is described as a “medium taupe satin.” It’s a golden brown with a hint of gray on top with a frosted sheen. It had excellent color payoff with a soft, smooth consistency that was easy to blend and work with. It wore well for eight hours on me. This shade was in the Shattered palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Backdoor is described as a “cool dark brown matte. It’s a dark, charcoal brown with cool, gray undertones and a matte finish. It had decent color payoff with a soft but thin consistency, which could have blended more readily. It wore well for eight hours on me. This shade was in the Smoked palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Deeper is described as a “medium metallic bronze.” It’s a rich, bronzy brown with warm, yellow undertones and a frost finish. It had great pigmentation that went on easily and blended well, which lasted for eight hours on me. It was in the 15th Anniversary palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Disco is described as a “pale metallic gold with iridescent glitter.” It’s a slightly muted, light-medium gold with warm undertones and silver micro-glitter. The glitter doesn’t adhere with the base color, so most of it gets lost or trapped in a brush, rather than applied. What few glittery bits make it to the lid do fall off later (I didn’t see any glitter by the end of the day). The base color lasted for eight hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Heat is described as a “bright metallic copper.” It’s a bright, gold-shimmered copper with warm undertones and a frosted sheen. The color payoff was excellent, while the texture was fairly soft and smooth. It lasted for seven and a half hours before fading. Urban Decay did have a Heat eyeshadow in their deluxe range once upon a time, but it was a red-based shade, so this is different. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Crystal is described as a “icy metallic blue shimmer.” It’s a silvery, light-medium silvery-blue with a frosted finish. It had decent to good pigmentation, but the texture was drier and thinner, which made it somewhat powdery and prone to fading on the lid after seven hours of wear. It was in Book of Shadows Vol. 4. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Goddess is described as a “deep smoky blue with micro-glitter.” It’s a slightly brightened, navy blue with fine blue shimmer and larger micro-glitter. It was sheer, patchy, and a generally difficult eyeshadow to use in practice, as it was harder to blend or achieve decent payoff on the skin. It was faded after six hours. It was previously available in their original eyeshadow range but didn’t make the cut when they reformulated. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Vaporize is described as a “medium metallic gray-taupe.” It’s a medium-dark taupe brown with subtle, warm undertones and a metallic finish with micro-glitter. The glitter doesn’t bind with the eyeshadow, so it is mostly metallic, and the underlying color was nicely pigmented. The texture was a little dry, but it seemed improved from when it was in the Anarchy palette. It wore well for seven hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Floss is described as a “deep metallic emerald with micro-glitter.” It’s a very rich, intense emerald green with a blackened-brown base and a metallic finish and silver micro-glitter. I wanted to fall in love with this one, but the texture was so soft that it was almost crumbly and a little dry to work with. It lasted for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Perversion is described as a “soft black matte.” It’s a softened, medium black with a mostly matte finish. The texture was thin, a little dry, but fairly blendable on the skin. It had decent to good pigmentation, though it was buildable. The color wore well for seven and a half hours. It was in the Book of Shadows Vol. 3. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Provocateur is described as a “icy metallic pink with micro-glitter.” It’s a muted, pink with warm undertones and coppery-pink micro-glitter. It was semi-sheer with a lot of glittery bits, which made it harder to work with. This shade really needs an adhesive base to work decently. The underlying color lasted for seven and a half hours, but there was some fall out. It was in the Vice palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Hoodoo is described as a “medium metallic violet with pink shift.” It’s a muted, medium purple with cool undertones and a pearly sheen. It had so-so color payoff that seemed to be hurt by the drier, slightly powdery consistency of the shadow itself. This shade lasted for six and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Freakshow is described as a “bright purple satin.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark purple with cool undertones and a pearly sheen. It had good pigmentation with a soft, fairly blendable texture that wore well for seven and a half hours. It was previously available in the deluxe eyeshadow formula but was not included in the reformulated eyeshadow range. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Junkshow is described as a “bright pink satin.” it’s a vibrant, fuchsia-pink with cool undertones and iridescent micro-shimmer. It was a thinner, somewhat powdery shade that had signs of fading after seven and a half hours of wear. It was in the 15th Anniversary palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Blitz is described as a “bright metallic gold.” It’s a bright, metallic gold with warm, yellow undertones. It had excellent color payoff with a really smooth, blendable consistency (one of the best shades in the palette). This shade wore well for eight hours on me. It was in the Vice palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Chase is described as a “soft metallic bronze.” It’s a golden bronze with warm undertones and a very metallic finish. This shade had great pigmentation with a soft, smooth texture that I had no issues using on bare skin. It wore well for eight hours before fading. This is part of the permanent range. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Last Sin is described as a “pale champagne shimmer.” It’s a peachy beige with a hint of pink and a frosted finish. It was drier and more crumbly, which made it harder to apply (lots of fall out during application). On me, the color lasted for seven hours before fading. This shade was also in Vice3. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Roadstripe is described as a “iridescent white with blue-violet shift.” It’s a brightened, cool-toned white with an iridescent blue sheen. It had semi-opaque pigmentation with a lightly powdery consistency. I had to really layer and pack it on to get the intensity on bare skin. It also showed signs of fading after six and a half hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Anonymous is described as a “pale peachy cream matte.” It’s a light beige with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had great color payoff with a very silky, soft texture that made it easy to apply to the skin. This sahde wore well for seven and a half hours. It was in the Vice palette. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Laced is described as a “soft pink-nude matte.” It’s a muted, light-medium pink with a hint of gray and a matte finish. It had good pigmentation that was blendable, smooth, and silky. The color showed signs of fading after seven and a half hours of wear. This is part of the permanent range. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Vice LTD

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Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Nameless

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Backdoor

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Tuesday, January 13th, 2015

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette
Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 for 0.175 oz.) is an interesting mix of neutrals with two pops of bolder color–a coppery-orange and a bluish-teal. The new formula is supposed to be long-wearing, “crease-resistant,” and “richly-pigmented.” Though I am a fan of Hourglass and often think they put out excellent products, I wasn’t too impressed by this eyeshadow palette. The matte shades, while incredibly soft and finely-milled, are extremely powdery to work with. There is an excessive amount of powder kicked up just touching the brush to the surface, and even after tapping that excess off the brush, there is still fall out during application. The mattes didn’t wear well, and they were harder to blend on the skin for me.

The shimmery shades are not quite as prone to powderiness, but there is still some powder fall out during application. These shades can also be used wet or dry, and I had the best luck using them damp, as it prevented fall out and helped maintain intensity without having to build up the colors in layers. Wear was all over the place, so the eyeshadow formula on the whole seemed rather inconsistent. It is particularly disappointing, because Hourglass’ previous powder eyeshadow formula was one of the softest, most buttery and well-done, period. Here’s hoping the other palettes perform better, and this was just a one-off.

The two palettes I received as press samples were damaged on the top. I bought the four other palettes, so if those have any issues, I’ll be sure to note those things in the relevant review. A reader mentioned hers (that she purchased) also had scratches on the lid, which is an issue when you price your product at $58.

Graphite #1 is described as a “warm ivory.” It’s a very light beige with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It was very dusty and was difficult to apply to the skin; it just didn’t want to stay on well, and it was faded within six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #2 is described as a “copper gold.” It’s a brightened, copper with a warm, metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was very sheer and dry, even though the powder itself was incredibly fine. Unfortunately, it was only usable when applied with a damp brush and really pressed and smoothed over the skin, and then I was able to get rich, opaque color. Applied dry, it was a total mess; I could only see it working dry over a slightly tacky base. Dry, it was faded within a few hours, but applied damp, it lasted for almost seven hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #3 is described as a “deep brown.” It’s a dark brown with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had decent to good pigmentation, but the consistency was also powdery with a dryness to it that made it harder to blend on the skin. It just seems to stick wherever it initially lands without wanting to really diffuse or soften. It lasted for seven hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #4 is described as a “gun metal.” It’s a steely gray with a hint of blue and a pearly sheen. Applied dry, it was mostly opaque but less blendable. Applied dampened, it was more opaque and deeper, and it was easier to apply to the lid and use, though it dried back down quickly and became harder to blend out the edges. It wore longer–almost eight hours–compared to other shades, at least. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #5 is described as a “silver.” It’s more of a pewtery gold with subtle, warmer undertones with a metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer in coverage, and it did intensify to mostly opaque pigmentation when applied with a dampened brush. The texture was soft, blendable, but it was somewhat powdery. This was the only shade I liked in the palette. On me, the color wore well for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

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Graphite

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Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Graphite #1

D+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Graphite #2

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Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, January 12th, 2015

Guerlain Les Nuees (18) Eyeshadow Palette
Guerlain Les Nuees (18) Eyeshadow Palette

Guerlain Les Nuees (18) Eyeshadow Palette ($65.00 for 0.25 oz.) is a new, limited edition cooler-toned set of shades. I felt like the color combination really needed another mid-tone or medium-dark shade, because the three lighter shades tended to muddy together, while the navy blue was almost too dark and harsh in comparison. The color payoff varied from shade to shade, and none of the shades wore particularly well on me as most were prone to fading.

Les Nuees #1 is described as a “shimmering navy.” It’s a blackened navy blue with very fine, lighter navy blue shimmer. The shimmer is fine enough that when applied, the eyeshadow takes on a more satin-like finish. It had decent color payoff with a soft, but dry, texture, which made it harder to blend on the lid. I found it looked patchy the more I blended it, so it’s an eyeshadow that would definitely benefit from primer. On me, the color lasted for seven hours before fading. Urban Decay Heroine (LE, $18.00) is lighter. Too Faced De La Mer (P, $16.00) is similar. Wet ‘n’ Wild I Don’t Do Camouflage #2 (LE, $2.29) is darker. Disney by Sephora Midnight (LE) is more muted. MAC Shop & Drop (LE, $15.00) is similar. bareMinerals Shaken Not Stirred (P) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Nuees #2 is described as a “white.” It’s a bright, cool-toned white with a frosted, metallic finish. The texture was very soft but a little crumbly, so it didn’t apply as evenly as you might expect. It had fairly good color payoff but could have been more intense. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me. This type of shade is easily duped. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Nuees #3 is described as a “soft sky blue.” It’s a cool-toned, light lavender–an almost iridescent white rather than a sky blue–with a pearly sheen. The color payoff was decent, but it didn’t apply evenly on the lid and required layering to achieve decent intensity. The shade seemed prone to fading and only lasted for seven hours when I tested it. Kat Von D Gravitron (LE) is darker, warmer. Chanel Oiseaux de Nuit #1 (LE) is lighter. theBalm A3 (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. Tom Ford Beauty Cobalt Rush #1 (P) is similar. Urban Decay Aura #2 (LE, $18.00) is similar. MAC Dynamic Duo 2 #1 (LE, $15.00) is darker. MAC Fresh Ice (LE, $21.00) is similar. MAC Crystal (DC, $15.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Nuees #4 is described as a “delicate pink.” It’s a light beige with warm undertones, even though it may look pink in the pan, it seems to have a very strong white base. As a result, it loses a lot of the color. The finish is more pearly to frost, while the color payoff was semi-sheer. Unfortunately, this shade is too similar to the white shade, which made it hard to get a variety of looks out of the palette as there wasn’t enough contrast. Chanel Tisse Paris #2 (P) is less shimmery, warmer. Colour Pop Onai (P, $5.00) is a cream product. LORAC Vanilla (LE) is more shimmery. Milani Bella Ivory (01) (P, $3.99) is warmer. Too Faced All American Girl (P, $16.00) is similar. Too Faced Famous in a Small Town (P, $16.00) is similar. Too Faced Champagne Truffle (LE, $16.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Les Nuees (18)

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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LE
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Les Nuees #1

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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LE
product

Les Nuees #2

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Wednesday, January 7th, 2015

Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma (216) Style Eye-Con No.7 Plush Shadow Palette
Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma (216) Style Eye-Con No.7 Plush Shadow Palette

Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma (216) Style Eye-Con No.7 Plush Shadow Palette ($59.00 for 0.24 oz.) is mix of pinks and neutrals with most shades running slightly warm, though two are cooler-toned. There are two mattes, while the other five are more frosted/metallic. I liked them individually more than I liked them together, personally (I think there are perhaps too many mid-tones for my liking), and I felt like they worked better if one only used two or three shades at a time. There were no duds in the palette at all, and that is always an impressive feat for a palette that goes over four or five shades. I had no issues getting good pigmentation to show up on bare skin, even with the more matte shades, which made it easy to use.

The Enigma #1 is described as a “matte caviar black.” It’s a deep, dark black with a matte finish. It seems to have a subtle warm undertone but appears mostly neutral applied (from what I can tell!). It had good pigmentation with a soft, silky consistency that wasn’t too powdery and remained blendable on the skin. It wore well for eight hours on me. It is a basic shade, so there are plenty of similar shades out there that you may already have. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #2 is described as a “deep gray pearl.” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned gray with a frosted, silver-ish sheen with very fine teal micro-shimmer (it gives it an almost bluish cast at times). It had nice color coverage with a soft, blendable consistency that was easy to use and lasted for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #3 is described as a “metallic slate green.” It’s a cool-toned, gray-leaning pewter–more silver than gold, but there’s a golden sheen that gives it a more pearly finish. It had excellent pigmentation, and the texture was smooth and almost creamy to the touch. It lasted for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #4 is described as a “peony pearl with gold glitter.” It’s a muted, medium pink with warm undertones and a pearly sheen. I don’t know where they get the glitter part of the description from, because in the pan and when swatched, I don’t see it. If it’s there, it’s in such a minuscule quantity (but normally you’d see it in the pan!). It lasted for eight hours well. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #5 is described as a “soft pink matte.” It’s a brightened, pastel pink with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. Despite the lightness, it didn’t look or feel chalky at all, and instead, it was soft, smooth, and silky with excellent color payoff. On me, the color wore well for eight hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #6 is described as a “metallic taupe with iridescent shimmer.” It’s a rich, bronzy brown with warm, yellow undertones and a frosted, slightly metallic, finish. It’s not what I would describe as taupe (far too warm, even in the pan, it doesn’t look very gray-tinged). The color payoff was fantastic, while the texture was buttery and rich. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #7 is described as a “rosy champagne pearl.” It’s a warm-toned, medium peach-brown with a metallic sheen. The consistency was soft and smooth, while it blended beautifully on the lid and had excellent pigmentation. It wore well for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

The Enigma (216)

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Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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The Enigma #1

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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The Enigma #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Tuesday, January 6th, 2015

Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow
Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow

For spring, there are four new shades of Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is supposed to a “brilliantly reflective look” that can be applied wet or dry (the brand recommends applying with fingertips). It’s supposed to have “sophisticated” sparkle and not “chunky glitter.” They’re really pretty and dazzling, and they’re certainly going to be more reflective and sparkly in person or as they move than in a still shot. That being said, there is a fair amount of fall out applying these, and there is some fall out over time (it is surprisingly less than you’d expect, given just how packed these are with sparkle!). The sparkle is finer than true glitter, and the flecks love to adhere to my under eye area. It seems like only full makeup remover and a cotton pad or tape will remove the majority. The texture feels fairly smooth in the pan and almost has a wet consistency. They tend to work best with a dampened brush (wetter than I’d normally use for a regular eyeshadow as well).

Urban Decay Cosmic Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic white with iridescent 3D sparkle and shift.” It’s a sparkly, bright white with flecks of white sparkle and a metallic sheen. It had sheer coverage applied dry, and it was semi-opaque applied with a damp brush. I had a noticeable amount of fall out during wear, though the color didn’t crease for eight hours. Guerlain Cygne Blanc #2 (LE) is less sparkly. Too Faced Frost (LE, $16.00) is less sparkly. MAC Plumluxe #1 (P) is similar. Make Up For Ever D124 Crystalline White (P, $21.00) is less sparkly. Marc Jacobs Beauty Stagelight (302) (LE, $32.00) is sheerer. Chanel Fantasme (P, $36.00) is not as bright. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Urban Decay Ether Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “light purple with pink-blue 3D sparkle and shift.” It’s a muted, blackened purple with a hint of gray and pink and blue sparkle (the pink almost looks copper at times). It had semi-opaque pigmentation applied dry, and it was mostly opaque applied damp. The texture was finer, and the sparkle seemed to bind better with this shade (perhaps because the base was more pigmented). While the color itself lasted for eight hours, there was fall out during wear. Too Faced Sugar Plum Fairy (LE, $16.00) is less sparkly. MAC Black Grape (P, $21.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Urban Decay Scorpio Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “matte black with gold 3D sparkle.” It is a muted, dark black with warm undertones with more of a satin-matte finish topped off with gold sparkle. The gold sparkle doesn’t translate as well on the lid compared to other shades, which may be due to the more matte (and more opaque) base color, but it also seemed less sparkly in general. It was easier to work with, and it had less fall out, but it looked more like a satiny black applied (it darkened with little sparkle). It lasted for eight hours on me. Colour Pop Friskie (P, $5.00) is less golden. Guerlain Cygne Noir #1 (LE) is lighter, less sparkly. MAC Jet Couture (P, $21.00) is more sparkly. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Urban Decay Solstice Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic pink-red with green 3D sparkle and shift.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark copper-brown with warm, red-orange undertones and a bluish-teal duochrome. The duochrome was more present on the lid than swatched, but it will perform best when layered over a darker base (the reddish tones will work in the background and let the duochrome sparkle come to the foreground). The color payoff was semi-opaque both wet and dry, but the dry application made the product apply more smoothly. This particular shade seemed chunkier, not as smooth as the other shades. It lasted for eight hours without creasing, but there was a fair amount of fall out that went on throughout wear. Sephora + Pantone Universe Castor Gray (LE) is less sparkly. Makeup Geek Insomnia (P, $6.99) is greener, less sparkly. MAC I’ve Got a Crush on You (LE, $32.50) is less sparkly, stronger teal tone to it. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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product

Cosmic

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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product

Ether

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Scorpio

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, January 5th, 2015

Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow
Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow

For spring, there are four new shades of Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) being added to the line-up. Urban Decay sent along several of the existing shades, and I almost thought they were reformulated, so I ended up swatching them (but they seemed the same as before) as well. Full reviews to come :)

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