Tuesday, January 13th, 2015

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette
Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 for 0.175 oz.) is an interesting mix of neutrals with two pops of bolder color–a coppery-orange and a bluish-teal. The new formula is supposed to be long-wearing, “crease-resistant,” and “richly-pigmented.” Though I am a fan of Hourglass and often think they put out excellent products, I wasn’t too impressed by this eyeshadow palette. The matte shades, while incredibly soft and finely-milled, are extremely powdery to work with. There is an excessive amount of powder kicked up just touching the brush to the surface, and even after tapping that excess off the brush, there is still fall out during application. The mattes didn’t wear well, and they were harder to blend on the skin for me.

The shimmery shades are not quite as prone to powderiness, but there is still some powder fall out during application. These shades can also be used wet or dry, and I had the best luck using them damp, as it prevented fall out and helped maintain intensity without having to build up the colors in layers. Wear was all over the place, so the eyeshadow formula on the whole seemed rather inconsistent. It is particularly disappointing, because Hourglass’ previous powder eyeshadow formula was one of the softest, most buttery and well-done, period. Here’s hoping the other palettes perform better, and this was just a one-off.

The two palettes I received as press samples were damaged on the top. I bought the four other palettes, so if those have any issues, I’ll be sure to note those things in the relevant review. A reader mentioned hers (that she purchased) also had scratches on the lid, which is an issue when you price your product at $58.

Graphite #1 is described as a “warm ivory.” It’s a very light beige with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It was very dusty and was difficult to apply to the skin; it just didn’t want to stay on well, and it was faded within six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #2 is described as a “copper gold.” It’s a brightened, copper with a warm, metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was very sheer and dry, even though the powder itself was incredibly fine. Unfortunately, it was only usable when applied with a damp brush and really pressed and smoothed over the skin, and then I was able to get rich, opaque color. Applied dry, it was a total mess; I could only see it working dry over a slightly tacky base. Dry, it was faded within a few hours, but applied damp, it lasted for almost seven hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #3 is described as a “deep brown.” It’s a dark brown with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had decent to good pigmentation, but the consistency was also powdery with a dryness to it that made it harder to blend on the skin. It just seems to stick wherever it initially lands without wanting to really diffuse or soften. It lasted for seven hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #4 is described as a “gun metal.” It’s a steely gray with a hint of blue and a pearly sheen. Applied dry, it was mostly opaque but less blendable. Applied dampened, it was more opaque and deeper, and it was easier to apply to the lid and use, though it dried back down quickly and became harder to blend out the edges. It wore longer–almost eight hours–compared to other shades, at least. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #5 is described as a “silver.” It’s more of a pewtery gold with subtle, warmer undertones with a metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer in coverage, and it did intensify to mostly opaque pigmentation when applied with a dampened brush. The texture was soft, blendable, but it was somewhat powdery. This was the only shade I liked in the palette. On me, the color wore well for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Graphite

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Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Graphite #1

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Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Graphite #2

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Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, January 12th, 2015

Guerlain Les Nuees (18) Eyeshadow Palette
Guerlain Les Nuees (18) Eyeshadow Palette

Guerlain Les Nuees (18) Eyeshadow Palette ($65.00 for 0.25 oz.) is a new, limited edition cooler-toned set of shades. I felt like the color combination really needed another mid-tone or medium-dark shade, because the three lighter shades tended to muddy together, while the navy blue was almost too dark and harsh in comparison. The color payoff varied from shade to shade, and none of the shades wore particularly well on me as most were prone to fading.

Les Nuees #1 is described as a “shimmering navy.” It’s a blackened navy blue with very fine, lighter navy blue shimmer. The shimmer is fine enough that when applied, the eyeshadow takes on a more satin-like finish. It had decent color payoff with a soft, but dry, texture, which made it harder to blend on the lid. I found it looked patchy the more I blended it, so it’s an eyeshadow that would definitely benefit from primer. On me, the color lasted for seven hours before fading. Urban Decay Heroine (LE, $18.00) is lighter. Too Faced De La Mer (P, $16.00) is similar. Wet ‘n’ Wild I Don’t Do Camouflage #2 (LE, $2.29) is darker. Disney by Sephora Midnight (LE) is more muted. MAC Shop & Drop (LE, $15.00) is similar. bareMinerals Shaken Not Stirred (P) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Nuees #2 is described as a “white.” It’s a bright, cool-toned white with a frosted, metallic finish. The texture was very soft but a little crumbly, so it didn’t apply as evenly as you might expect. It had fairly good color payoff but could have been more intense. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me. This type of shade is easily duped. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Nuees #3 is described as a “soft sky blue.” It’s a cool-toned, light lavender–an almost iridescent white rather than a sky blue–with a pearly sheen. The color payoff was decent, but it didn’t apply evenly on the lid and required layering to achieve decent intensity. The shade seemed prone to fading and only lasted for seven hours when I tested it. Kat Von D Gravitron (LE) is darker, warmer. Chanel Oiseaux de Nuit #1 (LE) is lighter. theBalm A3 (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. Tom Ford Beauty Cobalt Rush #1 (P) is similar. Urban Decay Aura #2 (LE, $18.00) is similar. MAC Dynamic Duo 2 #1 (LE, $15.00) is darker. MAC Fresh Ice (LE, $21.00) is similar. MAC Crystal (DC, $15.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Nuees #4 is described as a “delicate pink.” It’s a light beige with warm undertones, even though it may look pink in the pan, it seems to have a very strong white base. As a result, it loses a lot of the color. The finish is more pearly to frost, while the color payoff was semi-sheer. Unfortunately, this shade is too similar to the white shade, which made it hard to get a variety of looks out of the palette as there wasn’t enough contrast. Chanel Tisse Paris #2 (P) is less shimmery, warmer. Colour Pop Onai (P, $5.00) is a cream product. LORAC Vanilla (LE) is more shimmery. Milani Bella Ivory (01) (P, $3.99) is warmer. Too Faced All American Girl (P, $16.00) is similar. Too Faced Famous in a Small Town (P, $16.00) is similar. Too Faced Champagne Truffle (LE, $16.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Les Nuees (18)

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Les Nuees #1

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

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Les Nuees #2

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Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Wednesday, January 7th, 2015

Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma (216) Style Eye-Con No.7 Plush Shadow Palette
Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma (216) Style Eye-Con No.7 Plush Shadow Palette

Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma (216) Style Eye-Con No.7 Plush Shadow Palette ($59.00 for 0.24 oz.) is mix of pinks and neutrals with most shades running slightly warm, though two are cooler-toned. There are two mattes, while the other five are more frosted/metallic. I liked them individually more than I liked them together, personally (I think there are perhaps too many mid-tones for my liking), and I felt like they worked better if one only used two or three shades at a time. There were no duds in the palette at all, and that is always an impressive feat for a palette that goes over four or five shades. I had no issues getting good pigmentation to show up on bare skin, even with the more matte shades, which made it easy to use.

The Enigma #1 is described as a “matte caviar black.” It’s a deep, dark black with a matte finish. It seems to have a subtle warm undertone but appears mostly neutral applied (from what I can tell!). It had good pigmentation with a soft, silky consistency that wasn’t too powdery and remained blendable on the skin. It wore well for eight hours on me. It is a basic shade, so there are plenty of similar shades out there that you may already have. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #2 is described as a “deep gray pearl.” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned gray with a frosted, silver-ish sheen with very fine teal micro-shimmer (it gives it an almost bluish cast at times). It had nice color coverage with a soft, blendable consistency that was easy to use and lasted for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #3 is described as a “metallic slate green.” It’s a cool-toned, gray-leaning pewter–more silver than gold, but there’s a golden sheen that gives it a more pearly finish. It had excellent pigmentation, and the texture was smooth and almost creamy to the touch. It lasted for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #4 is described as a “peony pearl with gold glitter.” It’s a muted, medium pink with warm undertones and a pearly sheen. I don’t know where they get the glitter part of the description from, because in the pan and when swatched, I don’t see it. If it’s there, it’s in such a minuscule quantity (but normally you’d see it in the pan!). It lasted for eight hours well. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #5 is described as a “soft pink matte.” It’s a brightened, pastel pink with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. Despite the lightness, it didn’t look or feel chalky at all, and instead, it was soft, smooth, and silky with excellent color payoff. On me, the color wore well for eight hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #6 is described as a “metallic taupe with iridescent shimmer.” It’s a rich, bronzy brown with warm, yellow undertones and a frosted, slightly metallic, finish. It’s not what I would describe as taupe (far too warm, even in the pan, it doesn’t look very gray-tinged). The color payoff was fantastic, while the texture was buttery and rich. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Enigma #7 is described as a “rosy champagne pearl.” It’s a warm-toned, medium peach-brown with a metallic sheen. The consistency was soft and smooth, while it blended beautifully on the lid and had excellent pigmentation. It wore well for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

The Enigma (216)

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Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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The Enigma #1

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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The Enigma #2

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Tuesday, January 6th, 2015

Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow
Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow

For spring, there are four new shades of Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is supposed to a “brilliantly reflective look” that can be applied wet or dry (the brand recommends applying with fingertips). It’s supposed to have “sophisticated” sparkle and not “chunky glitter.” They’re really pretty and dazzling, and they’re certainly going to be more reflective and sparkly in person or as they move than in a still shot. That being said, there is a fair amount of fall out applying these, and there is some fall out over time (it is surprisingly less than you’d expect, given just how packed these are with sparkle!). The sparkle is finer than true glitter, and the flecks love to adhere to my under eye area. It seems like only full makeup remover and a cotton pad or tape will remove the majority. The texture feels fairly smooth in the pan and almost has a wet consistency. They tend to work best with a dampened brush (wetter than I’d normally use for a regular eyeshadow as well).

Urban Decay Cosmic Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic white with iridescent 3D sparkle and shift.” It’s a sparkly, bright white with flecks of white sparkle and a metallic sheen. It had sheer coverage applied dry, and it was semi-opaque applied with a damp brush. I had a noticeable amount of fall out during wear, though the color didn’t crease for eight hours. Guerlain Cygne Blanc #2 (LE) is less sparkly. Too Faced Frost (LE, $16.00) is less sparkly. MAC Plumluxe #1 (P) is similar. Make Up For Ever D124 Crystalline White (P, $21.00) is less sparkly. Marc Jacobs Beauty Stagelight (302) (LE, $32.00) is sheerer. Chanel Fantasme (P, $36.00) is not as bright. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Urban Decay Ether Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “light purple with pink-blue 3D sparkle and shift.” It’s a muted, blackened purple with a hint of gray and pink and blue sparkle (the pink almost looks copper at times). It had semi-opaque pigmentation applied dry, and it was mostly opaque applied damp. The texture was finer, and the sparkle seemed to bind better with this shade (perhaps because the base was more pigmented). While the color itself lasted for eight hours, there was fall out during wear. Too Faced Sugar Plum Fairy (LE, $16.00) is less sparkly. MAC Black Grape (P, $21.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Urban Decay Scorpio Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “matte black with gold 3D sparkle.” It is a muted, dark black with warm undertones with more of a satin-matte finish topped off with gold sparkle. The gold sparkle doesn’t translate as well on the lid compared to other shades, which may be due to the more matte (and more opaque) base color, but it also seemed less sparkly in general. It was easier to work with, and it had less fall out, but it looked more like a satiny black applied (it darkened with little sparkle). It lasted for eight hours on me. Colour Pop Friskie (P, $5.00) is less golden. Guerlain Cygne Noir #1 (LE) is lighter, less sparkly. MAC Jet Couture (P, $21.00) is more sparkly. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Urban Decay Solstice Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic pink-red with green 3D sparkle and shift.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark copper-brown with warm, red-orange undertones and a bluish-teal duochrome. The duochrome was more present on the lid than swatched, but it will perform best when layered over a darker base (the reddish tones will work in the background and let the duochrome sparkle come to the foreground). The color payoff was semi-opaque both wet and dry, but the dry application made the product apply more smoothly. This particular shade seemed chunkier, not as smooth as the other shades. It lasted for eight hours without creasing, but there was a fair amount of fall out that went on throughout wear. Sephora + Pantone Universe Castor Gray (LE) is less sparkly. Makeup Geek Insomnia (P, $6.99) is greener, less sparkly. MAC I’ve Got a Crush on You (LE, $32.50) is less sparkly, stronger teal tone to it. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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product

Cosmic

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Ether

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Scorpio

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, January 5th, 2015

Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow
Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow

For spring, there are four new shades of Urban Decay Moondust Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.05 oz.) being added to the line-up. Urban Decay sent along several of the existing shades, and I almost thought they were reformulated, so I ended up swatching them (but they seemed the same as before) as well. Full reviews to come :)

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Friday, January 2nd, 2015

Make Up For Ever D552 Crystalline Gray Beige Artist Shadow
Make Up For Ever D552 Crystalline Gray Beige Artist Shadow

Make Up For Ever D552 Crystalline Gray Beige Artist Shadow ($21.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a brightened, pewter-gold with warm undertones and a metallic finish. It’s like a mix of gold, taupe, and gray, and I find it’s very brightening on the lid. The shade is richly pigmented with a soft, almost creamy consistency, that goes on like butter over the skin. It wore well for nine hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Make Up For Ever ME644 Iced Brown Artist Shadow ($21.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a brightened, medium-dark copper brown with warm undertones and a subtle, metallic sheen. It’s very smooth and had excellent color payoff that was easy to work with and blend on the skin. The color wore well for nine and a half hours before starting to crease slightly. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Make Up For Ever I628 Reptile Artist Shadow ($21.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a medium-dark, olive green with warm, khaki undertones and a pearly sheen. The texture is ridiculously smooth and soft with a buttery, dense feel. It slides over the skin smoothly with intense pigmentation. It really was a dream to work with, and even better, it lasted for nine and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Make Up For Ever ME614 Graphite Brown Artist Shadow ($21.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a rich, deepened brown with warm undertones and a pearly sheen. The texture was very soft and dense, and it was just slightly prone to thickening on the skin in the way that almost-cream-like-powders can. The pigmentation was incredible as a little went a long way. The color did last well for almost ten hours, though! See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Make Up For Ever S502 White Sand Artist Shadow ($21.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a light, subtly warm-toned beige (there’s an almost gray cast over it) with a satiny sheen. It had good pigmentation with a soft, smooth consistency that wasn’t dense but not really thin either. It felt a lot like a cream-powder hybrid to the touch. The color wore well for eight and a half hours before creasing. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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product

D552 Crystalline Gray Beige

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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ME644 Iced Brown

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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I628 Reptile

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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