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Urban Decay & Oz: Theodora Palette

Urban Decay Theodora Palette
Urban Decay Theodora Palette

Urban Decay & Oz: The Theodora Palette

Urban Decay Theodora Palette ($49.00 for 0.43 oz.) includes Broken (pale cream satin), Beware (warm brown matte), Bewitch (dark charcoal brown satin), West (deep metallic brown shimmer), Spell (black satin with green and gold shimmer/gold metallic with tonal glitter), Jealous (pale green pearl/dark green pearl), Theodora Super Saturated High Gloss Lip Color (bright red cream), and Zero 24/7 Glide-on Eye Pencil (black).

The eyeliner is 0.03 oz. ($14.25 value), while the lip pencil is 0.10 oz. ($19.00 value). There are six eyeshadow pans containing 0.05 oz. each ($108.00 value), though two of the six are split-pans, meaning they contain two eyeshadows in a single pan. The total value is $141.25. The eyeliner and six eyeshadow pans are housed within Urban Decay’s “Build Your Own Palette” interface, so all six pans can be popped out and you can insert another Urban Decay eyeshadow instead. The “empty” 6-pan palettes retail for $18.00 but include a travel-sized shadow brush and Walk of Shame eyeshadow (so it’s a wash, since you are getting an eyeshadow and an eyeliner instead, but I’ve already accounted for the value of those items).

Broken is a soft, pale beige with a satiny finish. It had good color payoff, and it was soft, smooth, and applied well. Urban Decay Illusion is warmer, darker, and has a stronger sheen. Cinderella A Wish is similar. Urban Decay Anonymous is more matte and slightly pink in comparison.Urban Decay Kinky is lighter, less warm-toned, and matte. MAC Dazzlelight is more shimmery. Urban Decay Skimp has a stronger sheen and is more peach-tinted.

Beware is a medium caramel brown with soft, warm undertones and a matte finish. The pigmentation was spot-on, and the texture was soft enough to allow for easy blending and application but not so soft it became powdery or prone to fading. theBalm Allegro is browner. MAC One to Watch is slightly shimmery. MAC Moleskin is browner. MAC Tete-a-tint is just a touch lighter.

Bewitch is a dark brown with subtle reddish undertones, but it almost looks cool-toned against my warmer complexion. The texture of this one was slightly powdery, and I thought it wasn’t quite true-to-pan in color initially, but when I applied it to the lid, I had no problem getting color to show. Chanel Variation #3 is a bit darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning #8 is richer. Urban Decay Muse is a bit darker, cooler-toned. MAC Buckwheat is a touch warmer.

West is a rich, deep red-toned brown–almost burgundy-brown–with a metallic sheen. It had very intense pigmentation, and it applied very smoothly and evenly. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning #8 is browner, less red-toned. theBalm Presto is matte. Urban Decay Barlust is less red-toned and warm-toned. MAC Sable is browner, warmer.

Spell contains two shades. The first half of the pan is a rich, metallic yellow gold with a strong, dirty brown base–it’s not quite antique gold, but it’s not an orange-y gold. The color payoff was fantastic, but there are stray bits of micro-glitter that get lost when swatched as well as when applied on the lid. When I used it, the fall off seemed to occur primarily during application, as next to no glitter transferred onto the lid. Urban Decay Blitz is lighter. MAC Old Gold is warmer. NARS Paramaribo #1 is a bit darker, less metallic. The other half of the pan is a deep bluish-black with multi-colored shimmer. It had fantastic color payoff, and the texture was buttery and smooth. MAC Tall, Dark, & Handsome is less intense. Tarnia Tarantino Diamond Dusk #5 is similar.

Jealous is another duo shade. The first half is a yellowed green with an olive brown base and softly frosted finish. It had good pigmentation, and it applied smoothly. Urban Decay Mildew is very similar to this shade–perhaps a touch warmer. Tarina Tarantino Dandy Lion is darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Earth Looks Small From Down Here #1 is more muted. MAC Sumptuous Olive is slightly browner. The other half is a lightened, not-quite-pastel green with warm, yellow undertones and a golden sheen. It had good pigmentation and applied evenly. bareMinerals Wicked is a touch lighter. MAC Juxt has more of a satiny finish. Inglot #412 is more metallic.

Theodora is a cherry red with ruby red shimmer. I think it leans just a smidgen warm. It’s extremely rich in color and has a glossy shine. I thought Urban Decay F-Bomb was darker/bluer-based, but when I swatched the two side-by-side, they were actually the same! Chanel Coromandel is more orange. MAC Eden Rouge is a touch cooler-toned. Edward Bess Midnight Bloom is a bit darker. MAC Ruffian Red is less glossy.  I’ve worn it for four hours so far, and it’s going strong, so I’m expecting six hours or so of wear.

Zero is a black with a mostly matte finish. It’s a classic black; not super, deep dark black, but not too soft that it looks gray. I have no problems with the wear–a solid eight hours without fading, migrating, or smudging.

Again, Urban Decay packs their palette with pigment; there were no weak performers in the pigmentation department within this palette.  Like Glinda, the only problem I really had was with respect to the micro-glitter found in half of Spell, but it contained far less micro-glitter than Oz (from Glinda), so the impact of it was much, much less both during application as well as when worn.  I found the majority of fall out occurred during application, but I only found one or two stray glittery bits beneath my eye (on that side of the face) after wearing it for the past eight hours.  All of the shades I wore (all but West and the black shade in Spell) lasted for a full eight hours without creasing or fading (no primer).  The textures found in this palette were easy to blend and apply, with the exception of dealing with some of the glittery fall out of Spell.

Urban Decay & Oz: Theodora Palette

A-
9.5
Product
9.5
Pigmentation
9.5
Texture
8.5
Longevity
4.5
Application
92%
Total

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Urban Decay & Oz: The Glinda Palette

Urban Decay Glinda Palette
Urban Decay Glinda Palette

Urban Decay & Oz: The Glinda Palette

Urban Decay Glinda Palette ($49.00 for 0.43 oz.) includes Tornado (vibrant deep purple shimmer), Aura (iridescent white with blue shift/Iridescent white with red shift), Magic (pinkish purple with a golden shimmer), Illusion (pale peach satin), Oz (gold with gold glitter/silver with silver glitter), South (warm pale gray shimmer with silver micro-glitter), Glinda Super Saturated High Gloss Lip Color (light sheer nude), and Rockstar 24/7 Glide-on Eye Pencil (deep eggplant).

The eyeliner is 0.03 oz. ($14.25 value), while the lip pencil is 0.10 oz. ($19.00 value). There are six eyeshadow pans containing 0.05 oz. each ($108.00 value), though two of the six are split-pans, meaning they contain two eyeshadows in a single pan. The total value is $141.25. The eyeliner and six eyeshadow pans are housed within Urban Decay’s “Build Your Own Palette” interface, so all six pans can be popped out and you can insert another Urban Decay eyeshadow instead. The “empty” 6-pan palettes retail for $18.00 but include a travel-sized shadow brush and Walk of Shame eyeshadow.

Tornado is a rich, dark purple with pink-red undertones and a shimmered, frosted finish. The color payoff was excellent, and the texture was soft, dense, and buttery which made for a very smooth, even application. Guerlain Attrape-Coeur #3 is lighter. Urban Decay Vice is lighter. Urban Decay Gravity is lighter and less red-toned. Urban Decay Freakshow is similar but still a bit lighter–the undertones are comparable.

Aura actually contains two shades. The first is a pale white with an iridescent pink duochrome finish.  Guerlain Attrape-Coeur #1 is purpler. I suspect something like MAC Pink Opal would also be comparable (but more frosted). The other half is a pale white with an iridescent blue-violet duochrome. MAC Vellum is similar but a bit lighter. The pigmentation on both of these was good, but they weren’t as dense/buttery as other Urban Decay eyeshadows.

Magic is a pink-lavender with a golden shimmer and satiny finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was soft and finely-milled–but a wee bit powdery. MAC Supersweet is similar but more frosted/metallic. Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse #3 is pinker and doesn’t have a golden shimmer.

Illusion is a soft champagne with warm, golden undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. It had a really smooth, soft feel and had great pigmentation. Estee Lauder Halo is warmer and a cream product. MAC Dew is a touch darker. MAC Baby, It’s Cold… is less metallic, more frosted. MAC Dazzlelight is lighter. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone #1 is similar but less metallic.

Oz also contains two shades. The first is a rich, metallic gold with soft yellow undertones and a brown base (giving it a deeper look) along with a ton of silver micro-glitter. The micro-glitter absolutely gets everywhere; it is so packed with it. It was also a pain to remove with just a brush, so I had to use makeup remover to get the majority off. Urban Decay Maui Wowie is really similar, though it has less glitter (but still has some) and is perhaps a touch lighter but not by much. It is paired with a bright medium silver with a frosted, metallic finish and silver micro-glitter. The glitter in this shade was less noticeable, but it was still there.
L’Oreal Primped & Precious is very similar. MAC Silver Sleet is comparable. Inglot #448 is a touch less metallic.

South is a dark taupe with a frosted, metallic finish; it’s a mix of gray and brown with cool undertones. theBalm Selfish is less metallic. Urban Decay Mushroom is grayer. Urban Decay Pistol is similar but less frosted/metallic.

Glinda is a soft, rosy beige with gold and pink shimmer. It’s semi-opaque, and it has nice, even coverage and didn’t take a lot of product to get there for it. The texture is very lightly tacky but not something I’d describe as sticky. It lasted four hours on me. It is actually the same color as Urban Decay Naked, when I swatched them side-by-side. MAC Supreme is slightly pinker. Guerlain Chant d’Aromes is darker.

Rockstar is a dark eggplant with subtle burgundy undertones and a pearly sheen. It had good color payoff in a single pass. I’ve used this shade quite a bit, and it’s definitely one of my favorite Urban Decay eyeliners. It wears eight hours on my lash line without fading or smudging.

Overall, the pigmentation of the products was good, while some were excellent and others were nice but not 100% perfect.  The biggest problem I’ve thus far encountered (I still need another four hours to fully test for wear, so I will update the longevity rating if anything falls above or below my typical wear time with Urban Decay’s eyeshadows) is in regards to the glitter fall out from the two shades with micro-glitter.

I had no problems applying, blending, or (so far) with the wear of the other shades.  The micro-glitter was frustrating to deal with while I applied the eyeshadow, but the few bits that did manage to get onto the lid, later made their way to places like my upper lip, nose, and chin.  Otherwise, the color themselves (including the ones with micro-glitter) have worn beautifully for the past four hours, and based on previous experience with Urban Decay’s formula, should wear for another four hours fairly well.  Again, I will update later tonight to reflect a full eight-hours of testing!

Urban Decay & Oz: The Glinda Palette

A-
9
Product
9.5
Pigmentation
9.5
Texture
8
Longevity
4.5
Application
90%
Total

bareMinerals The Next Big Thing Eyeshadow Quad

bareMinerals The Next Big Thing Eyeshadow Quad
bareMinerals The Next Big Thing Eyeshadow Quad

bareMinerals Remix: The Next Big Thing

bareMinerals The Next Big Thing Eyeshadow Quad ($30.00 for 0.17 oz.) is a new and limited edition palette for spring that features these four shades: The Rising Star (sunlit gold), Smash Hit (vibrant peach), Hoopla (glowing copper), and Ensemble (smoked-out plum).

The Rising Star is a lightened, yellow gold with a frosted, metallic finish. It almost looks cool-toned, as much as a yellow gold can. It had good color payoff in a single pass, and the texture was soft, dense, and buttery.  Too Faced Spun Sugar #5 is lighter. NYX Hot Yellow is less shimmery. bareMinerals Standing O is a bit lighter but still rather similar. MAC Treasure Hunt is less yellow and a cream product.

Smash Hit is a brightened coral-orange with a matte finish. The texture was soft, finely-milled but not powdery, and it had excellent pigmentation. MAC Coral is more orange and darker. MAC Dynamo is similar with some shimmer, and it is a cream product. Guerlain Les Fauves #3 is darker, redder. Make Up For Ever #5 is richer, darker.

Hoopla is a warm, coppery brown with a very frosted finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was mostly smooth. Tarte Tuscan Sun has a more metallic finish. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning #6 is a touch browner. Urban Decay Penny Lane is less brown.

Ensemble is a dark, purple-burgundy with a matte finish. It had good pigmentation, but it wasn’t quite as dense or as pigmented as many other bareMinerals’ matte eyeshadows. It was not as easily blended on the eye as a very good matte would be, and with such dark color, blendability is really key. MAC Sketch is lighter and has subtle shimmer. Tom Ford Enchanted #4 is more shimmery. MAC Deep Damson is very similar in color.

I think the color composition is a very warm-toned mix, and there’s a nice variety of contrast and finish here so there are several combinations to play around with. Generally, all four shades were more dupable than not, so you may find you have similar shades already in your stash (particularly Hoopla, which is a popular shade found in most ranges).  The other three shades were soft, easy to apply, and blendable.  When I wore all four shades together, they wore for eight full hours with no fading or creasing (no primer).

bareMinerals The Next Big Thing Eyeshadow Quad

A-
9
Product
9
Pigmentation
9
Texture
10
Longevity
4.5
Application
92%
Total

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NARS Persia Eyeshadow

NARS Persia Eyeshadow
NARS Persia Eyeshadow

NARS Spring 2013: Persia

NARS Persia Eyeshadow ($24.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as “matte paprika.” It’s a rich, vibrant rusted orange–hints of burnt red in its base–with a matte finish. MAC Hot Paprika is lighter, more muted. Le Metier de Beaute Innocence is redder and shimmery. MAC Red Brick is very similar. MAC Orange is slightly more orange/brighter.

This shade is rich, rich, and rich. The color payoff was intense and so saturated; very true-to-pan, and a little goes a long way. It’s one of the most pigmented eyeshadows I’ve tested by NARS. It’s also soft, finely-milled, and applies smoothly without being powdery. For as pigmented as it is, it still blends beautifully. The texture is a great balance of soft and dense, so I ended up having no trouble blending it with other shades. I will say that use less than you think you need, because it is incredibly pigmented. I tested it when I wore the other two eyeshadow duos in this launch, and it was the best performing out of all the eyeshadows–it was still fully intact after ten hours of wear.

NARS Bouthan Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Bouthan Eyeshadow Duo
NARS Bouthan Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Spring 2013: Bouthan

NARS Bouthan Eyeshadow Duo ($34.00 for 0.14 oz.) is described as “soft pink tulle” and “bright pink with gold shimmer.”  It’s new for spring, but it is being added to the permanent shade range. This duo was also the normal 0.14 oz. in size.

The light pink shade is a soft, pastel pink with neutral-warm undertones and a matte finish. It had good color payoff but was slightly powdery. MAC Young Venus is very frosty. Dolce & Gabbana Cinnamon #1 is slightly darker and has a pearly finish. MAC Sugar Snack is pinker/darker. bareMinerals Giddy is comparable. MAC Pen ‘n’ Pink is very similar.

The darker pink shade is a medium pink with gold sparkle over a matte base. It has slightly warm undertones, and it almost looks like a strawberry pink to me. It had so-so pigmentation, and it was also powdery, so it readily sheered out. It is best applied patted on and then minimally blended. The gold sparkle doesn’t seem to stick or bind with the pink hue, so it ended up mostly underneath my eye–it’s not loaded with sparkle like the micro-glitter shades are, though. There weren’t any shades that really came close to this one that I could think of. Guerlain Terra Azzurra #2 is much, much darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Bright Idea #3 is rosier, darker, and shimmery.

Both shades were powdery, so they ended up having slightly sheerer color payoff than true-to-pan color would be.  When I wore these two shades together, they lasted right around seven hours, but there was some minor fading at that point and then more noticeable fading after eight hours.

NARS Bouthan Eyeshadow Duo

C+
8
Product
8.5
Pigmentation
8
Texture
7
Longevity
4
Application
79%
Total

NARS Mad Mad World Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Mad Mad World Eyeshadow Duo
NARS Mad Mad World Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Spring 2013: Mad Mad World

NARS Mad Mad World Eyeshadow Duo ($34.00 for 0.11 oz.) is described as “cyan” and “parakeet green.” It’s new for spring but will be added to the permanent shade range. Worth noting, most NARS eyeshadow duos are 0.14 oz., but this one was labeled as 0.11 oz.

The cyan shade is a brightened, light-medium blue with a matte finish. It is incredibly pigmented and a little stretches quite a ways.  The texture was soft, smooth, and finely-milled–not at all powdery. Wet ‘n’ Wild Drinking a Glass of Shine #3 is softer, less bright, bluer. Milani Olympian Blue is a bit darker. MAC Blue Candy is slightly bluer. MAC Electric Eel is a touch darker. Inglot #371 is very similar.

The green shade is a cool-toned, medium green–there’s something about it that says, “jade green!” to me. This shade has the pigmentation, but the texture is on the powdery side, so it easily blends (and, as a consequence, sheers out) when swatched. When I applied it to the lid, I patted it on and only lightly blended it to maintain more opaque color. It had a tendency to look a little faded no matter whether I patted and/or applied over primer, though. The brightness seen in the pan didn’t seem to translate on the skin. Wet ‘n’ Wild Drinking a Glass of Shine #2 is lighter, more aqua. Milani Green Safari is warmer. Wet ‘n’ Wild Earth Looks Small From Down Here #3 is shimmery. Inglot #385 is slightly greener.

When I tested out this duo, the blue shade lasted a full eight hours without fading or creasing, while the green shade showed some noticeable fading by that eighth hour.  Both shades were easy to blend, which is absolutely necessary given their intensities, but the blue shade was definitely the better performer overall.  I will say that blending orange into green and blue was an interesting experiment.  With the pop of gold from Corcovado in this collection, I think this duo could work well with a shimmery gold between the two.

NARS Mad Mad World Eyeshadow Duo

B+
8.5
Product
9
Pigmentation
9
Texture
8.5
Longevity
4.5
Application
88%
Total

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