Saturday, September 17th, 2011


MAC Fall Colour

MAC Fall Colour: Pigments

MAC Fall Colour Pigments ($20.00 for 0.15 oz.) include four limited edition shades and one permanent repromote in the MAC Fall Colour Collection, which debuts in North America on September 29th, 2011 and will roll out internationally in October. These include: Blue Storm (rich metallic blue), Emerald Dusk (deep yellow blue with white pearl), Golden Olive (high frosted green-gold), Magenta Madness (intense neon blue-pink), Neo-Orange (intense neon salmon), Starless Night (deep black purple with light purple pearl), Tan (muted pinky brown bronze), and Violet (vivid bright violet purple).

  • Blue Storm is a dark navy blue with a purplish tint and silver sparkle. It gets a little darker and more cohesive when used damp as compared to dry. This shade has come out before, and yet I don’t have the original version (I’m at an utter loss as to why). It is similar to Givenchy Lune Mordoree. It’s not as dark as MAC Later.
  • Emerald Dusk is grayish blue with green-teal shimmer. When dry, it has a dustier look to it with less sheen, while when used damp, a silvery metallic sheen comes to the forefront. The color is similar to Urban Decay Hijack and Bare Escentuals Vapor.
  • Golden Olive is a medium grassy green with a hint of olive but mostly golden shimmer and sheen. This (along with Violet) were some of my very first pigments. I looked through the gallery but didn’t feel anything was very similar (and I couldn’t think of anything).
  • Magenta Madness is a neon fuchsia pink. It reads more fuchsia than magenta to me, though I wouldn’t debate you on that ’til the death. This shade is not to be used in the eye area per MAC’s safety insert. Inglot #362 is pinker, while Make Up For Ever #75 is closer but darker. MAC’s Neon pigments take a fair amount of work, and I can see why they’re a pro product. It’s better mixed with other base products (e.g. creams, mixing mediums, etc.) than applied straight to the skin. It has a matte finish, so it ends up looking chalky just swatched dry. The texture is silky soft–very finely milled–but it means it can look patchy when applied damp.
  • Neo-Orange is just shy of being a full neon orange. It looks rather dusty and softened when applied dry to the skin. This shade is not to be used in the eye area per MAC’s safety insert. The texture and issues with this shade are the same as Magenta Madness (see above). Make Up For Ever #5 is very close but in an easier format.
  • Starless Night is a violet purple over a blackened-purple base with silver and blue sparkle. It does well applied dry (binds together nicely) but takes on a more cohesive look when used damp. It’s similar to MAC Imaginary, if it were over a black base. It also reminds me of a purpler MAC Later.
  • Tan is a warm, red-toned medium brown with a gilded champagne shimmer-sheen. It looks more metallic when it is used damp. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone and Urban Decay Blaze are similar.
  • Violet is a softened violet purple with subtle red undertones and a frosted finish. Like Golden Olive, it was one of my first MAC products. Urban Decay Delinquent is darker. Urban Decay Ecstasy is less red-toned. Inglot #441 is more intense.

I have a soft spot for pigments, personally, as they were the product that made me fall in love with makeup. I prefer them with MAC’s Water-Based Mixing Medium (or 1/3 glycerin + 2/3 water for a DIY version) and have often used them as an eyeshadow base. There are only two new shades here and one more that is a repromote (so perhaps new to some); the rest of the shades are available permanently (Magenta Madness and Neo-Orange only at PRO stores, though currently available online to all!).

If you like pigments, the three new/limited edition shades (Blue Storm, Emerald Dusk, and Starless Night) are good and the latter two are reminiscent of the texture and formula of the Alice + Olivia pigments. The two neon shades (Magenta Madness and Neo-Orange) require more patience and likely better mixed with mediums/bases than alone. Pigments are technically multi-purpose products, which means you can use them on eyes, cheeks, lips, hair, nails, body, etc. (though some shades have safety restrictions). If you’re wondering where one might use the two non-eye safe shades, think cheeks or lips!

According to MAC, pigments “[contain] ingredients to help [them] adhere to the skin … easy to blend and long-lasting.” The way I review products is much, much more transparent to you as well as me (I have over fifty different characteristics I look at, though not all apply to each product). Nowadays, I try to be careful to read exactly how a brand describes their product/formula, because then I know what it’s supposed to do and then can review based on that. As much as I may like pigments, and I’m so used to using them with mixing medium, it’s almost mind-boggling to use them over bare skin!  I’m also surprised MAC doesn’t mention using these wet/damp or with a mixing medium.

The majority of colors do not apply intensely if you use them dry over bare skin. If you dampen the brush with even water, you’ll get a much better result. I also find that if I just use them damp over bare skin, they tend to fade a little (on me) after eight hours or so with minor creasing. I have no trouble with creasing or fading even after twelve hours if I use mixing medium instead of water. I have no problems with wear (whether dry or damp) if I use it over an eyeshadow primer.

The Glossover

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MAC Fall Colour Pigments Swatches, Photos, Reviews

B
What I like about pigments is that they feel like a more finished product than a lot of loose color products do--it doesn't just feel like mica but there is more to it, which is what helps it bind together and wear better.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Friday, September 16th, 2011

MAC Fall Colour Eyeshadows
MAC Fall Colour Eyeshadows

MAC Fall Colour: Eyeshadows

MAC Fall Colour Eyeshadows ($15.00 for 0.05 oz.) include four limited edition shades and one permanent repromote in the MAC Fall Colour Collection, which debuts in North America on September 29th, 2011 and will roll out internationall in October. These include: Blue Candy (clean blue), Passionate (real mid-tone red), Royale (clean violet), Shock-a-holic (deep purple), and Three Ring Yellow (yellow green).

  • Blue Candy is a bright medium blue; it’s like a really intense sky blue–a little cyan. This has a satin finish. The color payoff was good, and the texture was easy to work with. It reminded me of Urban Decay Clash but bluer. It’s lighter than both MAC Blue Calm and MAC Electric Eel.
  • Passionate is a bright pinky-red. This has a matte finish. It’s one of the easiest matte shades to work with by MAC, actually; good color payoff and soft enough to blend but not so soft that it is powdery.
  • Royale is a bluish violet with a matte finish. It’s a gorgeous shade, and it’s one that you may find the most inconsistency in how it looks online, because it really messes with cameras. I had the actual pot next to me to ensure the photos I have are as accurate as I can get them. It’s purpler than MAC Atlantic Blue but softer than Inglot #388. It is similar to MAC Cobalt but with infinitely better color payoff and texture (perhaps a touch bluer). It is lighter than NARS Outremer. It has good color payoff and applies well–not too dry or stiff.
  • Shock-a-holic is a medium-dark purple with subtle red undertones. This has a satin finish. The closest shade I could think of was Inglot #386, which is slightly redder. While the color payoff is decent, it is dry, so it can skip and look uneven if you aren’t careful.
  • Three Ring Yellow is a green-tinged yellow; it’s almost chartreuse but yellower. I imagine this might be the color one would be if they were seasick… This has a veluxe pearl finish (so it’s actually 0.04 oz. of product), which gives it a dense, buttery texture with great color payoff. It is yellower than a lot of potential dupes (think MAC Chartreuse, MAC Double Feature 2, etc.).

First, as you might have noticed, my Passionate is just a pan; mine is actually a depot from whenever it originally launched (I believe it was C-Shock).  None of the five here were problematic at all.  Shock-a-holic was the most finicky, while the other four were nice.  These are really bright, in-your-face kind of shades, and I think those who have longed more for matte or semi-matte finishes will find the answer with these.  The only one that really has noticeable shimmer is Three Ring Yellow.

The Glossover

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MAC Fall Colour Eyeshadows Swatches, Photos, Reviews

A-
If you love bright colors without loads of shimmer, MAC has finally given you something that might be up your alley!

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Friday, September 16th, 2011

MAC Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Fall Colour: Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad ($38.00 for 0.19 oz.) is second of two quads from the MAC Fall Colour Collection, which debuts in North America on September 29th, 2011 and will roll out internationall in October. Parlor Smoke includes these shades: Parlor Smoke (mauve grey), Cross Cultural (neutral brown), Indigo Noir (navy), and Steel (almost black).

  • Parlor Smoke is a smoky purple-gray with pale silver shimmer-sheen. It has a frost finish, which makes the sheerer payoff more disappointing. The finish seems less like a frost and more like an amped satin. I wish it was more pigmented, though. I don’t really have any dupes for you on this one. Inglot #420 is similar but very metallic so they end up looking more different than they do similar.
  • Cross Cultural is a medium-dark brown with subtle warm, red undertones. It has a matte finish, but it’s so, so buttery and intensely pigmented. I don’t remember it being as good here as it was when it was launched individually (but still limited edition). MAC Charcoal Brown is warmer, a little yellowy in comparison. Inglot #327 is a little warmer.
  • Indigo Noir is a inky purpled-black-navy. Very complex and will certainly lean bluer/purpler depending on what you layer it over or pair it with. It has a matte finish, and it does have a drier texture (some mattes are dry, some are very soft but some go too soft and become powdery).  I still had good color payoff in  a regular skin swatch, but it performs well on the eye (much like Gravel from the other quad).  It’s darker than MAC Imaginary. It’s purpler than Inglot #321.  It seems like a brighter variation on MAC Graphology.
  • Steel is a dark gray with hints of brown, and it has a veluxe pearl finish. For a veluxe pearl, it’s surprisingly dry and a little stiff to work with; it’s not as buttery or as dense as other veluxe pearls are. It is similar to theBalm Inspirational and Urban Decay Gunmetal. It is more silvered than Print, while Knight Divine is lighter (and frostier).

As interesting of a shade Parlor Smoke is, the color payoff is only average, while Steel has good (but not great) pigmentation, the texture is somewhat stiff and dry (rather unexpected for a veluxe pearl in particular). It’s a cool-toned quad with a really dark, smoky feel to it (true to the name).  The colors look good together in the palette, but I expect this is more of a palette one would use in conjunction with what you already own, just because three of the four shades are quite dark.

The Glossover

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Parlor Smoke

B+
As interesting of a shade Parlor Smoke is, the color payoff is only average, while Steel has good (but not great) pigmentation, the texture is somewhat stiff and dry (rather unexpected for a veluxe pearl in particular). It's a cool-toned quad with a really dark, smoky feel to it (true to the name). The colors look good together in the palette, but I expect this is more of a palette one would use in conjunction with what you already own, just because three of the four shades are quite dark.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Friday, September 16th, 2011

MAC Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Fall Colour: Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad ($38.00 for 0.20 oz.) is one of two quads from the MAC Fall Colour Collection, which debuts in North America on September 29th, 2011 and will roll out internationall in October. Angel Flame includes these shades: Chamomile (creamy pale yellow), Angel Flame (coral that flashes pink/yellow), Feather Pink (mid-tone pink), and Gravel (blue-grey).

  • Chamomile is a soft yellowed white-beige with a satin finish. It has a less frosted finish compared to MAC Short Shorts and is also a touch less yellow. Urban Decay Zephyr is whiter and more frosted. Inglot #395 is a touch more orange and metallic in finish. The texture is lovely–very soft and smooth while delivering excellent color payoff.
  • Angel Flame is a softened peachy-orange with golden peach shimmer-sheen. It has a frost finish. It’s like a slightly softer version of MAC Melon Pigment. Inglot #407 is much more intense. It’s also similar to Make Up For Ever #153. It’s pinker than MAC Flip. It’s a tiny bit powdery and sheered out but overall pretty good in texture and payoff.
  • Feather Pink is a cool-toned, blue-based cotton candy pink with a satin finish. Inglot #319 is the closest dupe I could think of, though it is lighter. I want to say it is similar to MAC Push-up Pink, which is very, very old (2004).
  • Gravel is a blue-tinted gray-black with a matte finish. It was a litte dry and sheer when swatched, but it applied beautifully on the lid, as many MAC matte eyeshadows often do. Inglot #376 is a bit similar but almost looks a touch purple.

The whole time I was photographing this, I felt like it looked familiar. It is reminiscent of the overall color scheme of the Fafi Eyes 2 Eyeshadow Quad, though I wouldn’t say they’re dupes but there are a few similarities (pale highlight, medium pink, bluish-gray-black). It also bears some similarity to MAC A Rose is a Rose Eyeshadow Quad; sort of like a frostier, slightly darker variation on it.

I like the quad overall, and honestly, after the past few palettes I’ve seen from MAC launches, I’m also relieved: the quality is much better here than it has been recently. It’s a solid quad overall with good quality and an interesting mix of colors.

The Glossover

palette

Angel Flame

A-
I like the quad overall, and honestly, after the past few palettes I've seen from MAC launches, I'm also relieved: the quality is much better here than it has been recently. It's a solid quad overall with good quality and an interesting mix of colors.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, September 15th, 2011


MAC Street Art Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Art of Powder: Street Art Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Street Art Eyeshadow Palette ($38.00 for 0.31 oz.) is one of three limited edition specially designed compacts from the Art of Powder Collection, which launches on September 29th, 2011 (North America) and October 2011 (International, at select locations). The palette contains a hefty amount of product; an eyeshadow quad retails for the same amount but contains 0.20 oz. on average.

After testing this palette, I just can’t say the quality is there. It’s the design that will sell this product; it’s more for collectors than it is for someone who is after quality eyeshadow. There are six different shades (tan, beige, periwinkle, orange, turquoise, and pink) but I was only really able to grab distinct swatches of five (the beige was difficult to get individually and then to get to show up was another story!).

The tan shade is a gold shimmered orange-tan that applies very sheerly and not as smoothly as I would like (or expect). One of the better performing shades was the periwinkle shade which is more purple than periwinkle, but it depends on the lighting; it reminded me a fair amount of Digit. Despite the appearance of intensity in the palette, the turquoise shade is incredibly sheer with a slightly roughened texture (it’s not rough or gritty, but it’s not smooth); it’s like the palest teal with silvery shimmer. The orange shade was better, as it was much more pigmented but was dusty; it’s a slightly muted orange with a subtle satiny sheen. The pink shade worked the best, as it applied smoothly and with good color payoff; it’s a yellow-toned light-medium pink with a near metallic finish. There is also a beige shade that disappears against my skin and suffers from sheerness and some powderiness.

Undeterred, I wore this on my eyes (it’s what I wore in several of the photos for the Posh Paradise Mattene lip swatches), and the fall out was incredible. I went with something short and sweet, so I used the purply-periwinkle shade on the lid with the turquoise shade in the crease. The texture is rather dry and doesn’t work well on its own (I figured I’d test it with a base on one eye, without on the other). Even with a base, I had a ton of glittery fall out and really had to pack on the color to get decent color payoff and evenness in color. I tried twice with a base – once with NARS Eyeshadow Primer Potion and the second time with MAC Nubile Paint Pot (using the pink, tan, and orange shades). The second combination had less fall out (but the shades had less shimmer) but took a fair amount of color-packing to get the vibrancy in the palette.

It’s a shame to see such a design-intensive palette perform so poorly. It really is art, because the best thing to do with it is to admire it from afar. Undoubtedly, it will still sell out because of the design alone. The good news is all of the colors go through to the bottom based on digging around each shade to see how deep it went. The only part that is an overlay is the silvered shimmer-sheen that goes across the middle.  You just can’t have problems with wear (fall out, minor fading, unevenness), pigmentation, and texture and come out on top.

The Glossover

coming-soon

MAC Art of Powder: Street Art Eyeshadow Palette Swatches, Photos, Reviews

F
It's a shame to see such a design-intensive palette perform so poorly. It really is art, because the best thing to do with it is to admire it from afar. Undoubtedly, it will still sell out because of the design alone.

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

6/10

Texture

5.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Thursday, September 15th, 2011

Wet 'n' Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio
Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio

Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio

Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio ($2.99 for 0.17 oz.) is a cool-toned mix of white, black, and blue. It’s a shame that this trio ended up being poor performing all around, because I think the color combination is beautiful and could have worked so well together.

The Browbone shade is sheer, frosted cool-toned white. This has a very chunky texture–the shimmer feels like it is in pieces, so it results in fall out when applied to the lid. The color itself is also sheer. It’s a cooler-toned white than theBalm Tempting Tara.

The Crease shade is a mostly matte black with silver sparkle. It’s sheer, chalky, and very dry. The application is poor, because it is difficult to blend out. It’s an inferior version of NARS Night Breed.

The Eyelid shade is a medium-dark navy blue. It is dry and sheer, and the funniest part is that the texture and poor color payoff make it look like a different color than the pan. I did a double-take when I was comparing swatches and photos–I actually re-swatched, and it really is as unmatched as it seemed.

The Glossover

coming-soon

Wet 'n' Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio Review, Photos, Swatches

D
Even for $2.99, I would still pass on this. Wet 'n' Wild does better eyeshadow than this--poor color payoff is one thing, just as drier textures is another, but taken together, it makes for a rather frustrating pairing.

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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