Thursday, August 16th, 2012

Estee Lauder Violet Underground Eyeshadow Palette
Estee Lauder Violet Underground Eyeshadow Palette

Take Me to the Violet Underground

Estee Lauder Violet Underground Eyeshadow Palette ($48.00 for 0.15 oz.) consists of five shades ranging from pink to black to brown. The formula is long-wearing and is not supposed to crease while still blending easily.

The first shade is a vibrant fuchsia pink with a subtle metallic sheen. When applied dry, it’s slightly sheer and looks like it has a soft frost finish. When applied damp, it is incredibly opaque and vibrant with a soft metallic finish. MAC Moon Rose is just a little less fuchsia. MAC Tease With Ease is softer. NARS Caravaggio is darker. Urban Decay Woodstock is very similar. MAC Bright Fuchsia is also close.

Next to the fuchsia shade is a chocolate bronze with a metallic sheen. When applied dry, it still retains a subtle metallic finish and has excellent color payoff. When applied damp, it becomes more intense but doesn’t change too much. NARS Surabaya is similar but has a less metallic finish. Make Up For Ever #14 has less red in its base. theBalm Tres Moi is less red-toned and a smidgen lighter. Le metier de Beaute Bordeaux has a stronger red undertone. Chanel Ebloui is grayer.

Moving on, we arrive at a light beige-peach with soft, warm undertones and a frosted finish. It’s nearly the same whether it is used damp or dry, though it becomes just slightly more metallic when it is used wet. The pigmentation is full and opaque both ways. Bare Escentuals Stealth is more matte in finish and a little lighter. Dolce & Gabbana Jewels is a fraction lighter. MAC Say Yeah is frostier and has a subtle golden sheen. theBalm Luscious Lani is noticeably lighter and more metallic in finish.

In the middle is a dark black with subtle shimmer that’s just barely noticeable. It has good color payoff when used dry, though it is more intense when applied damp. When applied, it does intensify better with a brush than just in a swatch even when applied dry. It’s not quite as dark as MAC Dark Dare or Milani Pitch Black. It is darker than MAC Carbon.

The final shade is a rich violet with hints of blue and an underlying dark base. It had good pigmentation dry but had less depth, whereas when applied damp, it took on a much more intense, deeper look, though both dry and damp had similar metallic finishes. I felt that this was the least dupeable shade in the palette, because it is a darker purple with only a hint of blue. Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl is lighter, less blackened. MAC Starless Night is darker, not really blue–more black in its base (so you lose some of the purple). MAC Imaginary has no blue. Givenchy Lune Mordoree is bluer. Urban Decay Frigid is the closest but it lacks the blackened base.

I think this is one of the most stunning eyeshadow palettes that has launched in the past few years. It’s utterly breathtaking–whether or not these are the kind of hues you’d feel comfortable wearing or not, it’s a showstopper. What I love is that it does deliver on the color, and all five shades work well together; not just in one color combination but multiple ones. If you prefer subtle pops of color, there are two more neutral shades (beige and bronze) that can be accented by the richer shades (pink and violet) or darkened (black).

These wore impeccably, too!  I had no problem achieving nine hours of wear with no fading or creasing with or without a primer, and I used four of the five shades in the look (no black).  They were easy to blend, didn’t have any fall out, and applied with full color without having to pack it on.  It comes in a purple metallic case with a mirror on the inside and two dual-ended sponge-tipped applicators. The only criticism I could come up with was the pink shade could be better pigmented dry.

The Glossover

palette

Violet Underground

A+
I think this is one of the most stunning eyeshadow palettes that has launched in the past few years. It's utterly breathtaking--whether or not these are the kind of hues you'd feel comfortable wearing or not, it's a showstopper.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Thursday, August 16th, 2012

Milani Gold Dust Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Gold Dust Powder Eyeshadow

Follow the Trail of Gold Dust to Find Your Way Home

Milani Gold Dust Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is a warm gold with orange tones and a frosted, metallic finish. Giorgio Armani #1 is similar, slightly darker. Clarins Enchanted Summer contains a gold that is similar but also a little darker. Dior Couture Gold has a slightly lighter shade. Milani Drenched in Gold is less orange-toned.

The color payoff is decent to good, and it will apply mostly opaque to lid with a little packing of color but not too much is required.  In my use of this shade, what I liked least was the texture, which was on the powdery side with some dryness (it’s quite apparent in the swatch).  I wish it had a better or more binding ingredients, so it would stick together better.  This would make it apply more smoothly, though the powdery texture makes it easy to blend–but there is a little fall out during application, and the color can be sheered out too easily if you are not careful.  It managed eight hours of wear without a primer and only showed some very subtle fading along the inner corner.

The Glossover

P
coming-soon

Caramel Brown

B
Not bad, not fantastic. For the price, some of the drawbacks might be worth overlooking. I think you may still be able to find a better gold for a similar price tag, though.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Monday, August 13th, 2012

Bobbi Brown Blue Moon Long-Wear Cream Shadow
Bobbi Brown Blue Moon Long-Wear Cream Shadow

Bobbi Brown Blue Moon Long-Wear Cream Shadow ($24.00 for 0.12 oz.) is described as a “shimmering bright blue.” It’s a medium blue with a very subtle sheen. Make Up For Ever #25 is lighter, frostier. Maybelline Tenacious Teal is a little more aqua-blue in comparison. MAC Blue Candy is lighter. Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly me to the Moon is a step or two darker.

This shade goes on very sheerly, and it was difficult to build up the intensity. If you take a ton of product, you can get opaque color, but applying and smoothing it out on the lid ends up in as a rather patchy result. The best method that worked for me was to apply one layer, wait about 15-30 seconds, then apply a second, wait another 15-30 seconds, and apply a thrid, and possibly a fouth, layer. The problem with that method was there was some faint but noticeable creasing after six hours. When I used a sheer layer, there was very minor creasing–after eight hours, though.  Blue Moon had a soft, creamy texture that blended easily so long as you went for a sheer application.

The Glossover

LE
product

Blue Moon

B-
It's buildable, but the more layering you do, the more it compromises the wear--a sheer layer has minor creasing after eight hours while more opaque color had more noticeable creasing after six hours. As a base color, it works better and didn't crease.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3/5

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Wednesday, August 8th, 2012

Giorgio Armani #28 Eyes to Kill Intense Eyeshadow
Giorgio Armani #28 Eyes to Kill Intense Eyeshadow

#28 is More Dazzling Than It Lets On

Giorgio Armani #28 Eyes to Kill Intense Eyeshadow ($32.00 for 0.14 oz.) is medium-dark, sparkling copper-tinged bronze. MAC Coil has more copper color in it. MAC Havana is darker. Benefit Dandy Brandy is similar but less shimmery. Make Up For Ever #15 is similar in color when sheered out. MAC Roasted Chestnut is a bit darker and more red-toned. MAC Buckwheat is a smidgen darker. Inglot #421 is richer, darker.

This particular shade had larger shimmer particles than a lot of the other Eyes to Kill Intense Eyeshadows have, which results in a greater sparkle effect, though it’s not quite as smooth. When applied dry, it doesn’t bind together as well as I’d like to see, and it comes out looking a little faded compared to the pot color and the way it looks when applied dampened. It takes on a darker brown base color when it is applied wet, though the color will stay looking the same way even when it dries down.

#28 has a drier texture–you can even tell in the pot, as it arrived kind of crumbled along the edges.  You can use the plastic stopper included in the pot to press it back down, but it’s not as well-bound as the other shades.  As a result, the color just doesn’t adhere as well when used dry. It takes some added moisture to make it come together. When I wore it to test the wear, it managed a full eight hours without fading or creasing, and I didn’t see any fall out underneath my eye, despite the sparkly finish.

The Glossover

LE
product

#28

B+
The impeccable wear certainly helps keep the overall rating afloat, despite some texture and color payoff problems. This shade really has to be used wet to be worth considering--the performance dry leaves something to be desired.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012

Dior Khaki Design Eyeshadow Palette
Dior Khaki Design Eyeshadow Palette

Camouflage Your Eyes with These Jungle Hues

Dior Khaki Design Eyeshadow Palette ($59.00 for 0.21 oz.) consists of four eyeshadows and one cream eyeliner, and all of these are in hues of greens, khakis, and olives. This eyeshadow palette is designed to be layered, as each shade has a different texture. It comes with a plastic insert that shows the labeling of what each shade is. Four of the shades can be treated as eyeshadows, while the fifth shade is a cream eyeliner.

The first shade, located on the upper left, is a darkened olive green with a subtle gray-tint that gives it that subdued color. It has noticeable brown undertones and a soft dusting of shimmer. The color payoff was good, and the texture was soft and smooth. NARS High Society is duller, grayer. Girogio Armani #25 has a blacker base and a ton more shimmer. Bare Escentuals Speaker Box is more shimmered. Giorgio Armani Green Jacquard is similar but less pigmented. MAC Femme Noir is greener, richer. Make Up For Ever #47 is greener.

The second shade, located on the upper right, is a sheer golden shimmer, which is noted as a “shine.” It can be layered over one of the other eyeshadows to add shimmer/sheen. The shimmer in it is finer than Dior Golden Savannah. Giorgio Armani #1 is more pigmented but similar in color–perhaps a touch browner. Giorgio Armani #18 is yellower. Tarina Tarantino Dreamy is similar but more like a regular eyeshadow, so it is opaque.

The third shade, located in the center, is an olive brown with a hint of green and a golden bronze shimmer. It has so-so color payoff; it’s a bit sheer, and it doesn’t build color well. theBalm Wocka, Wocka is similar but looks richer, as it is more pigmented. Bare Escentuals Spectacular is similar but more metallic in finish. MAC Sumptuous Olive is yellower. Inglot #419 is similar but very frosted.

The fourth shade, located on the bottom left, is a pale white gold with a frosted, metallic finish. The color is semi-sheer–it delivers more payoff than the upper right shade. Dior Couture Gold is chunkier and a smidgen yellower. MAC Carefree is similar in color but has more of matte finish. Bare Escentuals One Hit Wonder is also similar but a bit starker. Bare Escentuals Breathtaking is similar but has a less metallic finish.

The final shade, located on the bottom right, is a cream eyeliner that’s a blackened brown with a hint of teal shimmer.  The cream eyeliner has good color payoff, and it has a creamy consistency once you break through the initial surface.  It had so-so wear; it seemed a little faded and definitely migrated after six hours.

All of the shades had a soft, finely-milled texture that felt like butter and silk.  I liked the variation between finishes and light/dark within the palette, as it is more versatile–though I think it could have done with one more medium-colored eyeshadow instead of two pale/white golds that look more similar than not.  You would think that the Shine finish would have fall out problems, but it’s actually very easy to wear. I patted it over the darkest green eyeshadow, and I didn’t experience any fall out during the day.  When I wore the palette together, the eyeshadows wore for eight hours with very minor fading along the edges.

The Glossover

palette

Khaki Design

B+
If you like layering your eyeshadows, enjoy khaki/olive-toned eyeshadows, and don't mind some sheerer color, then you might like this. I don't think it's a must-have, though.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012

Bobbi Brown Slate Eyeshadow
Bobbi Brown Slate Eyeshadow

Contour with a Clean Slate

Bobbi Brown Slate Eyeshadow ($21.00 for 0.08 oz.) is described as a “medium grey.” It’s a softened gray-tinged taupe brown with a matte finish. MAC Omega is lighter, warmer. theBalm Celebrational is darker and has a satiny sheen. Bare Escentuals Vow is a few shades darekr and has a strong red undertone. MAC Twilight Falls is frosted and darker. MAC EarthlyM is a little browner and has a shimmery finish. Inglot #360 is a bit darker and less gray, but it was the closest I could think of.

This hue is part of Bobbi Brown’s permanent matte eyeshadow range.  The pigmentation is true-to-pan, but it looks soft, almost sheer, but not really.  I think the matte finish, combined with the soft texture and muted color, might give off that impression.  This kind of shade works well as a contouring shade (great for defining the crease or layered to add definition over another crease color) on light to medium-dark skin tones.  Darker complexions may like this has a general lid shade but will not see as much contouring with it as it starts to blend in more with the skin color on the darker end of the spectrum.

It has a soft texture that’s not too dense or buttery but not horribly dry and stiff and firm. There are two distinct matte formulas:  one is softer, more buttery/dense (but often can be powdery) and the other is firmer, drier, but so long as it’s soft and not stiff, it will work quite nicely and deliver great color payoff, blendability, and wear.  The same is true for eyeshadows, but I’ve noticed the distinction is much stronger within the matte category.  Slate is dry but soft, so it isn’t powdery and blends out easily–but not so easily that you have to go back and add more color.  It wore for eight hours (without a primer as well as with a primer) without creasing or fading.

The Glossover

P
product

Slate

A+
This kind of shade works well as a contouring shade (great for defining the crease or layered to add definition over another crease color) on light to medium-dark skin tones. Darker complexions may like this has a general lid shade but will not see as much contouring with it as it starts to blend in more with the skin color on the darker end of the spectrum.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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