Wednesday, May 9th, 2012

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate
OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate ($12.00 for 0.088 oz. / 2.5 grams) is described as an “opalescent pink/lavender.” It looks pink in the jar, but it is much more lavender once applied; it really has an opalescent finish so it flashes both pink and lavender. When it’s applied damp, the lavender color gets pulled to the forefront, while when it’s applied dry, it looks a bit pinker, softer, and less metallic. It’s more opaque when applied damp as well. MAC Dynamic Duo 2 has a more silvered shade. MAC Light Violet is pinker. theBalm Curtain Call is pinker and darker.

The formula is described as “lightweight, ultra-refined, [and] densely pigmented” that can be used on the eyes, face, and body.  Datura has an incredibly fine-milled consistency that’s softer than silk.  It applies smoothly for the most part, but it seems to have a definite sweet spot if you want to use it wet–it can’t take too much dampness or else it seems to clump up.  I tried using it wet on the inner corner, and it did this to me a bit.  If you want a sheerer look, I would recommend using it dry, rather than wet, and if you wanted to layer this over another shade to add iridescence, that’s also another good way to use this.

Of the five shades that launched with their spring/summer collection, Datura was the only one that was sheer when applied dry.  I had no problem with the wear, though, and there was no residual fallout during the day.  It wore about seven hours over bare skin without fading or migrating; after eight and a half hours, it was very slightly faded.

The Glossover

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product

Datura

B
If you want a sheerer look, I would recommend using it dry, rather than wet, and if you wanted to layer this over another shade to add iridescence, that's also another good way to use this.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, May 8th, 2012

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is an intense dark black with a matte finish–though there appears to be a very, very faint sheen, it doesn’t translate on the lid or from afar. It also seems to have very subtle blue undertones (rather than brown), but it’s hard to tell–it’s that close to neutral. Urban Decay Blackout is just slightly richer. Tarina Tarantino Lovely is a little softer. Guerlain Les Ombres de Nuit is similar. Inglot #391 is not quite as dark.

The formula is supposed to be “super pigmented, easily blendable, creaseproof, [and] silk-like.”  This is the second shade I’ve tried from the line-up, and I’m not disappointed.  I think the texture is a little drier than Shocking Pink, but it’s very intense and pigmented.  It’s soft, finely-milled, and doesn’t look chalky when applied.  It blends out fairly easily, though it could be just a little softer and denser.  The good news is that it’s not powdery, so you don’t end up with lots of excess product underneath your lid during application as you might with a more powdery formula.  This particular shade is closer in texture to MAC’s mattes, but it’s not quite as dry.  When I trialed Pitch Black on the bare lid, it wore for eight hours with some slight fading around the edges but no creasing.

It will be available exclusively at select CVS stores this May. I’ve linked to Milani’s website for the time being, as it’s a good starting point for tracking down where Milani is sold near you.  These are packaged in a clear-cover plastic compact and contain over double the amount of product as the average eyeshadow (0.11 oz. vs. 0.05 oz.).

The Glossover

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product

Pitch Black

A-
It's definitely one of the better budget-friendly blacks--I love that it doesn't have a super dry, chalky texture, and it actually goes on as intense as it looks in the pan.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, May 7th, 2012

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “matte kelly green.” It’s a brightened medium grassy green with very subtle yellow undertones and a matte finish. MAC Fresh Flare is darker, cooler-toned. MAC Wondergrass is similar but a touch lighter, yellower, and shimmery. Inglot #384 is darker. Inglot #331 is even darker. Make Up For Ever #91 is just a little lighter and yellower.

Just released, Fledgling is another stellar matte shade to work with.  It’s intensely pigmented with opaque, smooth color payoff with very little product required.  The texture is soft, finely-milled, but not powdery.  If you aren’t a fan of some of the denser, more “buttery” matte shades because of the excess powder they kick up, you may find Illamasqua’s formula a happy medium between drier and softer mattes.  Fledgling wears extremely well with or without a primer; it lasted for eight hours without fading or creasing.

The Glossover

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product

Fledgling

A
Illamasqua has a stellar matte formula on their hands. If you love pigmented matte eyeshadows that don't have a powdery finish, I think Illamasqua is a good match for you. Fledging has amazing pigmentation, and I love how subtle the yellow undertones are.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is a vibrant magenta pink with strong blue undertones and a very subtle dusting of silver shimmer. This might be one of the most vibrant shades I’ve seen, period, but particularly from a mass brand. Sugarpill Dollipop is less blue-based, pinker. MAC Magenta Madness is a little more intense, darker, and pinker. Make Up For Ever #75 is much, much darker and pinker.

The formula is described as “super pigmented, easily blendable, creaseproof, [and] silk-like.” It’s a pretty tall order, but Milani actually delivers well on all four claims. It’s extremely pigmented; it’s rich in color, and it has a soft, buttery texture that’s dense and so very soft. It’s one of the softer, denser mattes (like Inglot), as compared to MAC’s regular matte formula, which is a drier, firmer matte. The soft, silky-smooth texture enables really easy blending and diffusing of color. It applies and adheres well to the bare lid, lasting about eight hours with no creasing and minor fading around the edges.

It will be available exclusively at select CVS stores this May. I’ve linked to Milani’s website for the time being, as it’s a good starting point for tracking down where Milani is sold near you.  These are packaged in a clear-cover plastic compact and contain almost double the amount of product as the average eyeshadow (0.11 oz. vs. 0.05 oz.).

The Glossover

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product

Shocking Pink

A
Intensely pigmented, soft as silk, smooth as butter, and easy to blend--what's not to love? Oh, and it's less than $5--even better. Fans of matte eyeshadows who also love their brights will definitely want to keep an eye out at their local CVS!

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Friday, May 4th, 2012

Illamasqua Pivot Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Pivot Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Pivot Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Pivot Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “yellow green.” It’s a medium chartreuse green with strong yellow undertones and a matte finish. There are a lot of chartreuse shades on the market, but this shade is less dupeable because it has a fair amount of green in it–it is more green than yellow. MAC Swimming is darker, greener. MAC Lucky Green is a little yellower and has a shimmery finish. Make Up For Ever #171 is the closest shade, though it’s more vibrant, lighter, and has a frosted finish.

The texture is the perfect balance of softness and density.  It’s rich in color, soft like silk, but not at all powdery.  With mattes, the more pigmented formulas tend to be softer but slightly powdery as a result–you’ll kick up a fair amount of excess powder when you disturb the top layer with your brush–but with Pivot, it’s soft enough to apply smoothly, evenly, and not skip or drag, but it never turns powdery.  When worn alone, it wore for a full eight hours without creasing or fading.  It was easier to blend the shade over a primer, though it was not overly difficult over bare lids (just marginally easier over a primer!).

It’s listed at Sephora but looks like it hasn’t been added to stock yet, but I expect it to show up officially soon. It is available at Illamasqua’s website, though, for international readers.

The Glossover

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product

Pivot

A
For those who love matte eyeshadows, Illamasqua's formula is worth checking out. Pivot is a great shade for a pop of color this summer! If you have cooler undertones but have always found chartreuse-like shades too yellow, this might work better for you.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Wednesday, May 2nd, 2012

Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl Eye Palette
Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl Eye Palette

Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl Eye Palette

Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl Eye Palette ($95.00 for 0.06 oz.) is a new and limited edition palette that contains four distinct shades of eyeshadow. It’s described as “a harmonious blend of deep sea blue, algae, lagoon turquoise, and shimmering, crest-of-a-wave white.” The reason why it’s a whopping $95 is because the lid of the compact is decorated with mother-of-pearl. To put the price in context, Giorgio Armani’s comparable palettes retail for $59, so the packaging upgrade is really coming in at a $36 price tag. I know in the past, Giorgio Armani has made a regularly-packaged version available, but I haven’t seen it online and don’t have confirmation that it is even available.

The first shade is a muted, dark blue with a hint of teal. It has a frosted sheen and so-so color payoff–the pigmentation improves a bit when it’s applied to the lid but not significantly. It was soft to the touch and felt really smooth. MAC Pre-packaged is more intense, bluer. Guerlain Les Gris is darker. Bare Escentuals Water is very similar with less sheen. MAC Bold Babe is a little lighter.

The second shade is a blue-based violet purple with blue shimmer. The pigmentation is decent but not fully opaque. It had a fairly smooth texture with a finely-milled feel. Urban Decay Ransom is less blue-toned. MAC Deserty Cloud is similar but a little less blue-toned. Urban Decay Blue Bus looks very similar. MAC Parfait Amour isn’t quite as blue-based.

The third shade is an aqua-blue with a green-gold iridescence. This shade had good color payoff. The texture was soft and finely-milled, so it applied smoothly. Milani Caribbean Sea is lighter. Urban Decay Aquarius is darker. Guerlain Les Aquas is bluer. Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm is greener and darker.

The fourth and final shade is a warm white with both shimmer and glitter–it had a chunkier texture with more obvious sparkle. It had some fall out both during application and during wear. When I applied it to the lid, it skipped a bit, too–it did not want to apply so opaquely there. It’s similar to a slew of shades, including MAC Pearl, Buxom Sheepdog, theBalm Sassy, and MAC Forgery.

Ecailles Black Pearl is a decent-to-good palette, but it’s not exceptional in quality. The pigmentation leaves something to be desired as the bold, intense pans don’t quite translate when applied to the lid.  Interestingly enough, I did not like it over NARS Smudgeproof–it did not want to blend and seemed to skip and just apply unevenly.  It was better over bare lids, where it did blend better and apply more evenly.  I also had no problems applying or blending these shades over Make Up For Ever’s Aqua Shadow.

I’m always disappointed in how little Giorgio Armani’s eyeshadow palettes contain–just 0.06 oz., when the average full-sized eyeshadow (yes, just one!) is 0.05 oz. (like MAC, Urban Decay, etc.). Seriously, I do a double-take every time I read the pack of the palette! I’m like, “No, it’s a typo!” But in the interest of playing devil’s advocate, it’s unlikely that you’ll make it through the wells here unless you’re using these shades on a daily basis. Just consider how long it takes you to get through the few eyeshadows you’ve hit pan (or even finished) on!

The Glossover

palette

Ecailles Black Pearl

B
Ecailles Black Pearl is a decent-to-good palette, but it's not exceptional in quality. I'd like to have seen better pigmentation with softer and more blendable textures. I think the color combination is gorgeous, though.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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