Friday, September 16th, 2011

MAC Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Fall Colour: Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Parlor Smoke Eyeshadow Quad ($38.00 for 0.19 oz.) is second of two quads from the MAC Fall Colour Collection, which debuts in North America on September 29th, 2011 and will roll out internationall in October. Parlor Smoke includes these shades: Parlor Smoke (mauve grey), Cross Cultural (neutral brown), Indigo Noir (navy), and Steel (almost black).

  • Parlor Smoke is a smoky purple-gray with pale silver shimmer-sheen. It has a frost finish, which makes the sheerer payoff more disappointing. The finish seems less like a frost and more like an amped satin. I wish it was more pigmented, though. I don’t really have any dupes for you on this one. Inglot #420 is similar but very metallic so they end up looking more different than they do similar.
  • Cross Cultural is a medium-dark brown with subtle warm, red undertones. It has a matte finish, but it’s so, so buttery and intensely pigmented. I don’t remember it being as good here as it was when it was launched individually (but still limited edition). MAC Charcoal Brown is warmer, a little yellowy in comparison. Inglot #327 is a little warmer.
  • Indigo Noir is a inky purpled-black-navy. Very complex and will certainly lean bluer/purpler depending on what you layer it over or pair it with. It has a matte finish, and it does have a drier texture (some mattes are dry, some are very soft but some go too soft and become powdery).  I still had good color payoff in  a regular skin swatch, but it performs well on the eye (much like Gravel from the other quad).  It’s darker than MAC Imaginary. It’s purpler than Inglot #321.  It seems like a brighter variation on MAC Graphology.
  • Steel is a dark gray with hints of brown, and it has a veluxe pearl finish. For a veluxe pearl, it’s surprisingly dry and a little stiff to work with; it’s not as buttery or as dense as other veluxe pearls are. It is similar to theBalm Inspirational and Urban Decay Gunmetal. It is more silvered than Print, while Knight Divine is lighter (and frostier).

As interesting of a shade Parlor Smoke is, the color payoff is only average, while Steel has good (but not great) pigmentation, the texture is somewhat stiff and dry (rather unexpected for a veluxe pearl in particular). It’s a cool-toned quad with a really dark, smoky feel to it (true to the name).  The colors look good together in the palette, but I expect this is more of a palette one would use in conjunction with what you already own, just because three of the four shades are quite dark.

The Glossover

product

Parlor Smoke

B+
As interesting of a shade Parlor Smoke is, the color payoff is only average, while Steel has good (but not great) pigmentation, the texture is somewhat stiff and dry (rather unexpected for a veluxe pearl in particular). It's a cool-toned quad with a really dark, smoky feel to it (true to the name). The colors look good together in the palette, but I expect this is more of a palette one would use in conjunction with what you already own, just because three of the four shades are quite dark.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Friday, September 16th, 2011

MAC Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Fall Colour: Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Angel Flame Eyeshadow Quad ($38.00 for 0.20 oz.) is one of two quads from the MAC Fall Colour Collection, which debuts in North America on September 29th, 2011 and will roll out internationall in October. Angel Flame includes these shades: Chamomile (creamy pale yellow), Angel Flame (coral that flashes pink/yellow), Feather Pink (mid-tone pink), and Gravel (blue-grey).

  • Chamomile is a soft yellowed white-beige with a satin finish. It has a less frosted finish compared to MAC Short Shorts and is also a touch less yellow. Urban Decay Zephyr is whiter and more frosted. Inglot #395 is a touch more orange and metallic in finish. The texture is lovely–very soft and smooth while delivering excellent color payoff.
  • Angel Flame is a softened peachy-orange with golden peach shimmer-sheen. It has a frost finish. It’s like a slightly softer version of MAC Melon Pigment. Inglot #407 is much more intense. It’s also similar to Make Up For Ever #153. It’s pinker than MAC Flip. It’s a tiny bit powdery and sheered out but overall pretty good in texture and payoff.
  • Feather Pink is a cool-toned, blue-based cotton candy pink with a satin finish. Inglot #319 is the closest dupe I could think of, though it is lighter. I want to say it is similar to MAC Push-up Pink, which is very, very old (2004).
  • Gravel is a blue-tinted gray-black with a matte finish. It was a litte dry and sheer when swatched, but it applied beautifully on the lid, as many MAC matte eyeshadows often do. Inglot #376 is a bit similar but almost looks a touch purple.

The whole time I was photographing this, I felt like it looked familiar. It is reminiscent of the overall color scheme of the Fafi Eyes 2 Eyeshadow Quad, though I wouldn’t say they’re dupes but there are a few similarities (pale highlight, medium pink, bluish-gray-black). It also bears some similarity to MAC A Rose is a Rose Eyeshadow Quad; sort of like a frostier, slightly darker variation on it.

I like the quad overall, and honestly, after the past few palettes I’ve seen from MAC launches, I’m also relieved: the quality is much better here than it has been recently. It’s a solid quad overall with good quality and an interesting mix of colors.

The Glossover

palette

Angel Flame

A-
I like the quad overall, and honestly, after the past few palettes I've seen from MAC launches, I'm also relieved: the quality is much better here than it has been recently. It's a solid quad overall with good quality and an interesting mix of colors.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, September 15th, 2011


MAC Street Art Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Art of Powder: Street Art Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Street Art Eyeshadow Palette ($38.00 for 0.31 oz.) is one of three limited edition specially designed compacts from the Art of Powder Collection, which launches on September 29th, 2011 (North America) and October 2011 (International, at select locations). The palette contains a hefty amount of product; an eyeshadow quad retails for the same amount but contains 0.20 oz. on average.

After testing this palette, I just can’t say the quality is there. It’s the design that will sell this product; it’s more for collectors than it is for someone who is after quality eyeshadow. There are six different shades (tan, beige, periwinkle, orange, turquoise, and pink) but I was only really able to grab distinct swatches of five (the beige was difficult to get individually and then to get to show up was another story!).

The tan shade is a gold shimmered orange-tan that applies very sheerly and not as smoothly as I would like (or expect). One of the better performing shades was the periwinkle shade which is more purple than periwinkle, but it depends on the lighting; it reminded me a fair amount of Digit. Despite the appearance of intensity in the palette, the turquoise shade is incredibly sheer with a slightly roughened texture (it’s not rough or gritty, but it’s not smooth); it’s like the palest teal with silvery shimmer. The orange shade was better, as it was much more pigmented but was dusty; it’s a slightly muted orange with a subtle satiny sheen. The pink shade worked the best, as it applied smoothly and with good color payoff; it’s a yellow-toned light-medium pink with a near metallic finish. There is also a beige shade that disappears against my skin and suffers from sheerness and some powderiness.

Undeterred, I wore this on my eyes (it’s what I wore in several of the photos for the Posh Paradise Mattene lip swatches), and the fall out was incredible. I went with something short and sweet, so I used the purply-periwinkle shade on the lid with the turquoise shade in the crease. The texture is rather dry and doesn’t work well on its own (I figured I’d test it with a base on one eye, without on the other). Even with a base, I had a ton of glittery fall out and really had to pack on the color to get decent color payoff and evenness in color. I tried twice with a base – once with NARS Eyeshadow Primer Potion and the second time with MAC Nubile Paint Pot (using the pink, tan, and orange shades). The second combination had less fall out (but the shades had less shimmer) but took a fair amount of color-packing to get the vibrancy in the palette.

It’s a shame to see such a design-intensive palette perform so poorly. It really is art, because the best thing to do with it is to admire it from afar. Undoubtedly, it will still sell out because of the design alone. The good news is all of the colors go through to the bottom based on digging around each shade to see how deep it went. The only part that is an overlay is the silvered shimmer-sheen that goes across the middle.  You just can’t have problems with wear (fall out, minor fading, unevenness), pigmentation, and texture and come out on top.

The Glossover

coming-soon

MAC Art of Powder: Street Art Eyeshadow Palette Swatches, Photos, Reviews

F
It's a shame to see such a design-intensive palette perform so poorly. It really is art, because the best thing to do with it is to admire it from afar. Undoubtedly, it will still sell out because of the design alone.

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

6/10

Texture

5.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Thursday, September 15th, 2011

Wet 'n' Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio
Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio

Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio

Wet ‘n’ Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio ($2.99 for 0.17 oz.) is a cool-toned mix of white, black, and blue. It’s a shame that this trio ended up being poor performing all around, because I think the color combination is beautiful and could have worked so well together.

The Browbone shade is sheer, frosted cool-toned white. This has a very chunky texture–the shimmer feels like it is in pieces, so it results in fall out when applied to the lid. The color itself is also sheer. It’s a cooler-toned white than theBalm Tempting Tara.

The Crease shade is a mostly matte black with silver sparkle. It’s sheer, chalky, and very dry. The application is poor, because it is difficult to blend out. It’s an inferior version of NARS Night Breed.

The Eyelid shade is a medium-dark navy blue. It is dry and sheer, and the funniest part is that the texture and poor color payoff make it look like a different color than the pan. I did a double-take when I was comparing swatches and photos–I actually re-swatched, and it really is as unmatched as it seemed.

The Glossover

coming-soon

Wet 'n' Wild Fly Me to the Moon Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio Review, Photos, Swatches

D
Even for $2.99, I would still pass on this. Wet 'n' Wild does better eyeshadow than this--poor color payoff is one thing, just as drier textures is another, but taken together, it makes for a rather frustrating pairing.

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Wednesday, September 14th, 2011

MAC Genuine Treasure Paint Pot
MAC Genuine Treasure Paint Pot

MAC Posh Paradise Paint Pots Swatches, Photos, Reviews

MAC Paint Pots ($17.50 for 0.17 oz.) are included in the Posh Paradise collection which hits stores tomorrow. I’m not sure how some shades sold out so quickly on maccosmetics.com, but all but Half-Wild are in stock at Nordstrom (free shipping). It doesn’t look like it’s launched at Bloomingdales, Dillard’s, or Macy’s (free shipping over $50), but all of these retailers should also launch the collection today or tomorrow.

There are six shades featured in this post: Genuine Treasure (reflects antique gold), Half-Wild (mid-tone purple), Idyllic (mid-tone copper bronze), Nubile (light peachy nude), Pure Creation (mid-tone frosty blue), and Treasure Hunt (light pearled yellow). All products and shades from this collection are limited edition.

  • Genuine Treasure is a glittery bronze with flecks of antique gold, pewter, and a silvery-gray cast. It’s a very complex color, but the texture is less-than-desirable, because of the glittery finish, it’s gritty and rough. It’s harder to blend out and difficult to get a solid, opaque result in color. I also experienced some fall out after a couple of hours. It is a warmer, browner version of Benefit Skinny Jeans (and obviously, it has a glitter finish compared to a cream one!). I didn’t think it compared well with any of MUFE’s Aqua Creams, though. The finish is similar to those from Cham-pale. It seems a bit similar to Inglot #403 for an eyeshadow version.
  • Half-Wild is a red-toned medium-dark purple with subtle shimmer. It’s a grape-esque purple, but it’s not too bright and has significant red undertones. The closest cream shadow dupe I could think of was Benefit Purple Snap, which is lighter and less red-based. For powder eyeshadow dupes, it seems similar to Inglot #386.
  • Hyperviolet is reviewed here.
  • Idyllic is a burnished reddish-brown. It’s an interesting color, because it incorporates brown, burgundy, red, and copper together. It’s not copper, but it’s also not so dark or red that it’s burgundy. It seems like it would be comparable to MAC Artifact but with a frosted finish as well as Benefit stiletto. Illamasqua Resolute is a bit redder.
  • Imaginary is reviewed here.
  • Nubile is a lightly frosted peachy-beige. It’s a lovely shade that would work well as a general purpose eyeshadow base but also as a wash of color on the lid to brighten the eyes. It’s in the family of Painterly and Soft Ochre–not similar in color but in use–and it’s the most versatile of the eight. It’s lighter and less metallic compared to Benefit RSVP. It seems similar to theBalm Luscious Lani as far as a pressed eyeshadow version goes.
  • Pure Creation is a muted medium blue. It’s like a darkened sky blue to me; it doesn’t have the same lightness as a traditional sky blue would have but similar qualities. It’s not navy blue nor is it ocean blue. It’s much more muted compared to Make Up For Ever #20. It reminded me more of theBalm Sensational. It’s not as as silvered as MAC Moon’s Reflection.
  • Treasure Hunt is a pale yellow gold–but it’s not too gold. It’s not like Goldmine, which has a stronger orange tinge to it. This is so yellow that it almost reads like a cool-toned yellow; more comparable to Gorgeous Gold without the duochrome. It has the most metallic finish of the eight.

With the exception of Genuine Treasure, the texture of these was creamy with just the right amount of glide and slip to make for easy blending but not a long dry down time. Paint Pots wear well on me (twelve hours without budging, creasing, or fading) whether as an eyeshadow base or worn alone as a wash of color. They can be sheered out for softer color or applied heavily; the color payoff is more dependent on your application than the product, as the majority went opaque when applied and only sheered out with actual blending. Again, Genuine Treasure was the one that had the sheerest color overall; it reads more like a glittery layering shade.

Paint Pots come in heavy glass jars with a black, rubberized screw-top lid.  I haven’t had issues with Paint Pots drying out over time, and I’ve had some for more than two years.  The only one that has ever dried out was when I left the lid off for two or three days (aka my fault), and I microwaved it for about 10 seconds, stirred, and let it reset–and it was good as new (just make sure to remove the top before microwaving).  Each jar contains a good amount of product; you certainly won’t run through a jar in a month or two, even if you use it everyday.  I like the 242 or 249 to apply these best.  A fluffy brush like the 217 works well to blend out the edges if you are looking to wear it as a wash.

The Glossover

product

MAC Posh Paradise Paint Pots Swatches, Photos, Reviews

A
This is a really solid release--they work well overall, and Genuine Treasure is the only finicky one that has a certain appeal but may take more patience and trial/error to get just right. These have a nice consistency and texture so they apply and wear well.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
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Wednesday, September 14th, 2011

OCC Magenta Pure Cosmetic Pigment
OCC Magenta Pure Cosmetic Pigment

OCC Magenta & Turquoise Pure Cosmetic Pigments

OCC Pure Cosmetic Pigments ($12.00 for 0.088 oz.) are a professional-use product sold by the brand. They’re pure, uncut pigments, so they are best used when mixed with other cosmetic bases; OCC suggests things like body lotions, cosmetic grade talc, mixing mediums, primers, or their clear Lip Tar. I’ve shown them swatched wet (with just water) and dry. These kinds of products can stain the skin as well.

  • Magenta is a vibrant purpled magenta. When applied dry, it sheers and blends out easily as a result. With just a little water to dampen the color, it goes on more intensely. I couldn’t think of any dupes.
  • Turquoise is a vibrant medium-dark teal. It’s a green-based teal. It didn’t apply as smoothly when I applied it with water, but it worked well dry, though it looked a touch chalky against my skin. Inglot #372 is a little lighter but similar in color. MAC Double Feature 3 is also similar.

This is kind of a product in its raw form; it’s something waiting to be transformed, so for readers who love to play with makeup and mix and twist things up, these could be fun. If you prefer ready-made products, check out OCC’s Loose Colour Concentrates instead, which have already been mixed and formulated to wear with much less fuss.

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