Monday, March 5th, 2012

Urban Decay Honey Deluxe Eyeshadow
Urban Decay Honey Deluxe Eyeshadow

Urban Decay Honey Deluxe Eyeshadow

Urban Decay Honey Deluxe Eyeshadow ($18.00 for 0.09 oz.) is described as a “glistening gold.” It’s a rich, luxurious yellowed gold with hints of antique gold and a softly frosted finish. NARS Paramaribo is darker, more burnished. Make Up For Ever #11 is cooler-toned, less yellowed. Le Metier de Beaute Chameleon is browner, less golden. Inglot #404 is more coppery. Inglot #430 is brighter but the closest.

It’s part of Urban Decay’s Deluxe Eyeshadow range, which has a denser, softer texture compared to their regular formula, so it feels very buttery. The pigmentation is excellent, and it requires very little product to achieve smooth, even results. When worn alone, it adheres well and lasts for eight hours without creasing or fading. Over a primer, I have no wear issues for as long as twelve hours. Bonus: this is almost double the size of Urban Decay’s regular formula but at almost the same price!  The only downside is I find the packaging of the Deluxe Eyeshadows to be flimsy–the plastic lid tends to pop off the top of the compact easily.

The Glossover

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Urban Decay Honey Deluxe Eyeshadow Review, Photos, Swatches

A+
It's a beautiful color that will flatter hazel and green eyes immensely--it will also work other eye colors, too, but those two especially. It's a warm, almost dirty, gold, that pairs well with other browns, warm coppers, and olive greens.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Saturday, February 25th, 2012

MAC Fresh & Mint Mineralize Eyeshadow
MAC Fresh & Mint Mineralize Eyeshadow

MAC Mineralize Eyeshadows Duos for 2012

MAC Mineralize Eyeshadow Duos ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) now include: Fresh & Mint (white with silver and green veining/icy green), Joy & Laughter (dirty pink with hot pink and charcoal grey veining/icy pink), Love Connection (pale beige with gold and blue veining/warm gold), Sweet & Sour (dirty gold with green and deep blue veining/warm gold), and Water & Ice (creamy peach with blue and silver veining/sterling silver). These are now permanent (at least for an extended period of time, I haven’t been able to get a definite answer on how long).

Fresh & Mint has a cool-toned pale aqua green with a hint of gray overcast paired with a cool-toned, pale icy pink with a metallic shimmer-sheen finish. The green shade is a bit gritty. MAC Moss Garden is a darker green. Urban Decay Money is darker. It honestly looks a lot like MAC Shimmermint, perhaps a little less blue. The pink shade has good color payoff both dry and wet. It’s a bit cooler-toned compared to MAC Fresh Ice. It’s also similar to Dior Garden Roses and Tarina Tarantino Delightful.

Joy & Laughter has a cool-toned light-medium pink with a metallic sheen paired with a dirty gray-mauve with a soft sheen. The pink shade is similar to Dior Garden Roses (warmer) and Make Up For Ever #303 (warmer). The purple shade is similar to MAC Hypnotizing (less gray), Tarina Tarantino Fantastical (redder), and MAC Winterized (darker).

Love Connection has a warm, golden beige paired with a muted medium-dark copper brown with a golden copper sheen. Both shades felt rather smooth to the touch. The lighter shade is similar to: Tarina Tarantino Fantastical (warmer), Urban Decay Juju (darker), and Urban Decay Spotlight (warmer). The darker shade is similar to quite a few shades, though some are more intense than this shade (which has a softness to it): Buxom Golden Retriever (less metallic), Urban Decay Half Baked (warmer, lighter), Bare Escentuals Louder (more orange), Wet ‘n’ Wild Dancing in the Clouds (more orange), and Urban Decay Baked (more copper).  This duo is a repromote.

Sweet & Sour has a dirty yellow gold paired with a cool-toned, muted green with hints of blue tint. The yellow is a smidgen chunky, while the green shade is almost a duochrome. The yellow gold shade is similar to: Bare Escentuals Remix (warmer) and theBalm Snobby (lighter, less frosted). The green shade is similar to: Dior Garden Pastels (lighter, bluer), Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm (bluer, lighter), and Inglot #414 (darker).

Water & Ice has an icy blue-tinted silver-gray with a white shimmer-sheen paired with a pale blue-toned purple with a frosted sheen. The silver shade is similar to: Bobbi Brown Iced Blue (lighter, whiter), Wet ‘n’ Wild Enter a New Realm (darker, grayer), and Giorgio Armani #12 (lighter, more metallic). The purple shade was harder to dupe, but these were ones I compared it to: MAC Beautiful Iris (darker, less cool-toned) and MAC Digit (lighter).

Several of these are reminiscent of Glitter & Ice Mineralize Eyeshadows, so you may find that if you have some of those, you don’t need to rush out for these.  When I tested out these new duos, the results were the same ol’, same ol’ that I get with this product:  faded color after a few hours combined with continual fall out.  I tested Joy & Laughter and Sweet & Sour for wear, and both just looked so faded and muted after two hours (and this was used damp and over a primer).  I was really excited for Sweet & Sour, too, because the green seemed complex in the pot and swatched, but it doesn’t seem to translate to the eyelid.

The Glossover

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MAC Mineralize Eyeshadows Duos for 2012 Review, Photos, Swatches

B-
I know some readers love Mineralize Eyeshadows, and I really and truly wish I could discover the same love for them myself. I'm probably nearing 100 of them and only use them when I have to test them!

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3.5/5

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Saturday, February 25th, 2012

MAC Blue Flame Mineralize Eyeshadow
MAC Blue Flame Mineralize Eyeshadow

MAC Mineralize Eyeshadows for 2012

MAC Mineralize Eyeshadows ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) now include: Blue Flame (mineralize black with blue pearl), Cinderfella (mineralize black with silver pearl), Gilt by Association (mineralize black with gold bronze pearl), Smutty Green (cream, warm green, black veining), and Young Punk (mineralize black with pinkish purple pearl). With the exception of Smutty Green, these were originally limited shades that have been brought back for a stint as permanent products. At least once a year, MAC rotates in new mineralize eyeshadows that become permanent for a time, and these are five of ten shades that are now available.

  • Blue Flame is a rich navy blue over a blue-black base. When it’s used dry, the black base is more prevalent, while when it is used damp, the blue sheen comes out. MAC Naval Blue is bluer with a lighter base. MAC Shop & Drop is similar but has a subtler sheen. MAC Blue Storm is bluer with a lighter base.
  • Cinderfella is a brown-black with a silver-gray shimmer. When it is applied dry, it has a chalkier, sheerer look that makes it appear more muted, but when it is applied damp, it appears smoother, more intense, and the black stands out. Chanel Mirifique is the only dupe that comes to mind, though it is a bit different.
  • Gilt by Association is a rich, dark olive brown with olive gold shimmer. Again, when it is applied dry, it has a softer, slightly muted look, but when it is applied damp, it looks much more intense and the metallic sheen comes to the forefront. MAC Golden Gaze is yellower and more golden. I couldn’t think of any other dupes.
  • Smutty Green is a blackened-green base with green and dirty green shimmer. It has rather sheer, uneven color payoff when used dry, but it comes together better when applied wet. It seems awfully similar to MAC She Who Dares, perhaps with more black in it. Make Up For Ever #10 is similar in tone, but it’s not nearly as dark.
  • Young Punk is a blackened-purple base with pink-toned purple shimmer and sheen. When it is applied dry, it looks like a sheer, chalky black with purple shimmer, but when it is applied damp, it looks much more purple and the metallic sheen comes forth. Urban Decay Rockstar is kind of similar but more eggplant-hued. Giorgio Armani #2 has a similar black base but has pink and red shimmer.

I wish I could say this latest batch of Mineralize Eyeshadows was new and improved, but I still had issues with color staying true throughout the day and fall out both during and post-application.  The textures of the shades that have been out previously did seem softer, smoother, so the color payoff was better overall.  Even when I apply Mineralize Eyeshadows damp/wet and over a primer, the colors look faded after a few hours and any shade with shimmer or sparkles leads to fall out throughout the day.  I did a test look using Gilt by Association and Smutty Green, and my under eye area looked like a disco ball.

The Glossover

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MAC Mineralize Eyeshadows for 2012 Review, Photos, Swatches

B-
I know some readers love Mineralize Eyeshadows, and I really and truly wish I could discover the same love for them myself. I'm probably nearing 100 of them and only use them when I have to test them! I like that the blackened base doesn't take over when these are used wet, at least.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3.5/5

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Thursday, February 23rd, 2012

MAC Love Cycle Mineralize Eyeshadow Duo
MAC Love Cycle Mineralize Eyeshadow Duo

MAC Chen Man Love & Water Collection: Mineralize Eyeshadow Duos

There are three limited edition MAC Mineralize Eyeshadow Duos ($20.00 for 0.10 fl. oz.) in the new Love & Water Collection: Love Cycle (light blue, white, dark blue melange/dark royal blue), Pink Union (taupe, lavender, brown melange/dark violet), and Supersweet (bronze, pink, gold melange/golden pink).

Don’t get too excited–two of these duos are repromotes with new names, which is one of the worst things a brand can do (unless they’re extremely transparent about it, e.g. Urban Decay and their Alice in Wonderland palette). Two of these duos come from Electroflash, which was out four long years ago, so it’s not a bad thing that they’re repromoted–just bad that it’s not clear! (Boy, we’ve come a long way since 2008.)

Love Cycle has a muted medium-dark blue with a silver-ish sheen and frosted finish paired with a rich, deep blue with a frosted metallic sheen. This duo is the same as MAC Sea & Sky. The marbled side is lighter than theBalm Sensational, much bluer than Urban Decay Strip, slightly darker than MAC Moon’s Reflection, and bluer than Urban Decay Mary Jane. The solid side is a more shimmered NARS Outremer and MAC Atlantic Blue, slightly less blue than Inglot #428. Both shades had fairly good color payoff both dry and wet, though when applied wet, as per usual, the color applied smoother, more opaque, and the metallic sheen became more pronounced.

Pink Union has a muted plum-mauve with a frosted, metallic finish paired with a medium-dark violet purple with very, very subtle red undertones. The marble side is, generally, pinker than a lot of mauves on the market. It is a touch pinker than MAC Circa Plum and a fair amount pinker than shades like MAC Tendersmoke. Inglot #445 is purpler and darker. theBalm Curvy Cami is slightly purpler. Inglot #399 is pinker. The solid side is darker than MAC Violet, not as red-toned as Urban Decay Delinquent, and a touch more red-toned compared to MAC Parfait Amour.  When used dry, the marbled shade goes on fairly well, though the solid side is much more muted and softened.  They both apply more intensely and with a smoother appearance when applied damp.

Supersweet has a muted brown with a hint of gray-taupe in it with a frosted finish paired with a pop of cotton candy pink with a golden sheen. This duo is the same as MAC Pink Split. The marbled side is a bit browner than it is most taupe eyeshadows. If you have more of the gray marbling, you may find it turns more taupe. Urban Decay Midnight Rodeo is similar but a touch lighter. Inglot #363 is darker and matte. MAC Aloha is less gray. MAC Aurora is a little lighter. The solid side is similar to pinks like Dior Garden Roses, MAC Taupeless, MAC Goody Goody Gum Drop, and Inglot #431, but those pinks lack the strong golden sheen. Both shades, though the pink shade more so, were really chunky–they had a rougher, almost gritty texture, so I would expect a healthy amount of fall out, especially if used dry.  The color payoff is so-so when they are both used dry and gets better when applied damp.

Long-time readers will remember that I am not a fan of MAC’s Mineralize formulas.  My major issues tend to be fall out and wear, which are both biggies as far as eyeshadows go!  As much as I’d like these to work, because they do offer some really gorgeous shades and always look gorgeous in the pan, I continue to experience fall out during application, which continues while its worn (if the shade has sparkles of any sort) and have noticeable fading even when used damp and over a primer.  MAC has definitely refined the formula over the years in regards to texture (though Supersweet didn’t seem to get that treatment), because they have felt softer and smoother (overall) each year.  I tested Love Cycle (which applied the best) and still had noticeable fading after five hours used damp and over a primer.  It faded after three to four hours when used dry and over a primer.

The Glossover

palette

MAC Chen Man Love & Water Collection: Mineralize Eyeshadow Duos Review, Photos, Swatches

B-
If you tend to love Mineralize Eyeshadows, you'll probably like the texture of Love Cycle and Pink Union. Supersweet is chunky no matter how you slice it, so it has more than the usual amount of fall out for Mineralize Eyeshadows!

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3.5/5

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Thursday, February 23rd, 2012

MAC Naval Blue Pigment
MAC Naval Blue Pigment

MAC & Chen Man – Love & Water Collection: Naval Blue Pigment

It’s the lone pigment in the upcoming Love & Water Collection, but MAC Naval Blue Pigment ($20.00 for 0.15 oz.) is a great pick to repromote, as it is part of the permanent PRO range (and it’s been in a few sets before, if I remember correctly!). MAC describes it as a “deep smoky blue.” It’s a dark navy blue with a hint of purple–all of the blues in this launch seem to have this kiss of purple–that makes it a real pain to photograph, because sometimes it looks purpler than it ought! It’s similar to MAC Blue Storm, which came out this past fall (and was a repromote then). It’s also similar to Givenchy Lune Mordoree.

Pigments can be used wet or dry, but they tend to perform their best when applied damp or with MAC’s Mixing Medium (which is a clear liquid with an adhesive base, so it adheres and smoothes out better when you go to apply it). MAC actually says that the pigment itself contains ingredients that will make the pigments adhere to the skin and are long-lasting. Pigments tend to apply a little muted and can be more prone to fall out (given that it is a loose product) when applied dry, and it really needs to be used damp to have it adhere to the lid at all. When I tested out pigments based on how MAC described their formula, I was able to get eight hours of wear with minor creasing and fading only if I used them damp (over bare skin). If I used them with MAC’s Mixing Medium, then there were no fading or creasing issues even after twelve hours or if used over an eyeshadow primer.

The Glossover

coming-soon

MAC Naval Blue Pigment Review, Photos, Swatches

B+
MAC makes an excellent loose color product if you combine it with a wet or adhesive base, because they have a good formula that enables the color to bind well when damp and stay vibrant all day--but when used dry or alone, they tend to under-perform.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Wednesday, February 8th, 2012

Buxom Stay-There Eyeshadow
Buxom Stay-There Eyeshadows

Buxom Stay-There Eyeshadows (Part 3)

Buxom Stay-There Eyeshadow ($17.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a cream-gel-mousse formula that’s designed to have a lightweight texture, yield “vivbrant, lively, buildable” color, be waterproof, and long-wearing. Just for fun, Bare Escentuals made a charitable contribution to Canine Companions for Independence when this product launched. They are also exclusive to Sephora. The last four shades I’m reviewing are: Saint Bernard (deep sea green), Schnauzer (vivid violet plum), Sheepdog (frosty white), and Shih Tzu (gilded lime green).

According to the brand, these are supposed to have sheer color coverage, but they are buildable to an extent. The five featured in this post are very true to that creed–they can easily be used as a sheer wash of color, but they can also be used opaque by either initially applying more color or by applying a second layer of color on top of the first. Stay-There Eyeshadows have a spongy quality that reminds me of memory foam; you can press it, and it will slowly spring back to form. You can jab at it with a pencil, and you’ll end up shifting it around more than anything! These actually launched well before Chanel Illusion d’Ombres, which have a similar texture.

I like using a really stiff, firm, and flat brush with these, but I’ve had the best luck applying these with fingertips. Once applied, they dry down to a powder finish in just the right time–not instantly but not so long that it’s creased before you’ve finished applying product to the other eye. I’ve tested several shades without primer as washes, including Black Lab, Bulldog, Chihuahua, Collie, Mutt, Pug, Saint Bernard, and Shih Tzu, and I haven’t had any issues with the shades creasing, fading, or smudging. I’ve even worn a few of them during showers to test waterproof claims, and they haven’t budged.

  • Saint Bernard is a pop of green-based teal that’s semi-sheer. This shade did not build up color as well as some of the other shades–it was more like Black Lab in that respect. Maybelline Edgy Emerald is similar but a little less green. NYX Seafoam Green is slightly darker. NARS Misfit is darker and more opaque. MAC Aquadisiac is slightly less green.
  • Schnauzer is a brightened eggplant purple with red undertones and a fine violet shimmer. Like Saint Bernard, it’s not as buildable in color as other shades, so semi-opaque is the highest opacity I was able to achieve. Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse is similar but a touch darker. Le Metier de Beaute Fig is deeper and browner. MAC Fig. 1 is a bit darker and has a matte finish. Inglot #445 is lighter and has a frosted finish.
  • Sheepdog is a frosted white with semi-opaque color coverage. It’s similar to a lot of other white eyeshadows.
  • Shih Tzu is a springy green with a chartreuse shimmer-sheen. MAC Lucky Green is brighter, more intense. Inglot #412 is lighter, more olive. Make Up For Ever #304 is brighter and greener.

The Glossover

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Buxom Stay-There Eyeshadows Review, Photos, Swatches (Part 3)

A-
They're not quite as buildable as they seem like they should be, because for some, you really can't get much more color than what one layer of product yields (like Saint Bernard). The wear is really great, though, and if you like using sheer color as a base or as a wash for quick looks, you'll enjoy these.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

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