Monday, September 9th, 2013

Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Pencil Set
Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set

Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set ($36.00 for 6 x 0.03 oz.) includes six eyeliners, five of them new and exclusive shades, with one that’s part of the permanent range. The pencils are 25% smaller than full-sized (0.03 oz. vs. 0.04 oz.), so the total value of the set is $85.50. This set is an easy way to try out Urban Decay’s eyeliner formula, if you haven’t previously, as for the price of less than two full-sized eyeliners, you can get six. And for many of us, we have far more eyeliners than eyes, so getting more colors in a slightly smaller size is really not an issue. ;) Now, the only bummer is if you fall in love with one of the new shades, you won’t find it in the permanent range. (But Urban Decay does add previously exclusive shades into their permanent range from time to time, so maybe you’ll get lucky.) It’s available now at ULTA, but it officially launches tomorrow and is part of Urban Decay’s holiday collection!

Overall, the set includes six shades that all wore well on me (between eight and nine hours of good wear, then less stellar wear–such as thinner/faded but no issues with the eyeliners migrating or smudging). Some of the shades lacked really rich, intense pigmentation in one layer, so you will need to build the color up when applying, as most are quite buildable in two to three passes across the lash line.

West is described as “dark brown pearl.” It’s a medium-dark brown with a golden satin sheen and warm, slightly yellow-y undertones. It had nice color payoff in a single pass, and the color was fully opaque in one and a half passes across the lash line. It wore well for just over eight hours, and I saw some slight fading of the color after nine and a half hours. This shade is new and exclusive. Kat Von D Immortal Love is much darker. Urban Decay Whiskey is matte and more red-toned. Urban Decay Hustle is lighter, warmer. MAC Photogravure is darker. MAC Lord It Up is more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Desperation is described as “deep taupe-gray matte.” It’s a medium-dark, gray-leaning taupe with soft brown undertones and a matte finish. This is part of the permanent range. It has decent color payoff in one pass, and it is buildable to more opaque color on the lash line. It lasted well for a full eight hours, and then it started to show signs of fading after nine hours–just a thinning of the color but no smudging or migrating. Laura Mercier Slate seems warmer. Urban Decay Stray Dog is lighter, shimmery. bareMinerals 11PM is darker. See comparison swatches.

Black Market is described as “charcoal black satin.” It’s a deep, gray-ish black with very, very subtle green/teal pearl. It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke and was buildable to opaque color on the lash line. It lasted eight hours well, and then after nine hours, I saw some thinning of the eyeliner. This shade is new and exclusive. MAC Black Swan is more glittery. bareMinerals Midnight is warmer. bareMinerals 11PM is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Riot is described as “smoky gray matte with violet and fuchsia micro-sparkle.” It’s a dark purple with subtle warm undertones and flecks of violet, purple, silver shimmer. It had sheerer color payoff when I applied a single layer, but it was buildable to mostly opaque color coverage. It lasted eight hours well on my lash line, but it was noticeably thinner after nine hours of wear. This shade is new and exclusive. Urban Decay Empire is similar–slightly brighter. Urban Decay Delinquent is warmer, darker. MAC Permaplum is less shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Apathy is described as “metallic olive green shimmer.” It’s a dark, forest green with olive and subtle brown undertones–while it is olive in tone, it is almost cool-toned because of the emerald green shimmer. It had weak color payoff in a single stroke, but it was more buildable with a few layers; on the lash line, it took three to four passes for mostly opaque color. It wore well for almost nine hours with some light fading (but no smudging/migrating) after ten hours. This shade is new and exclusive. MAC Devotion is similar, slightly darker. NARS Rue de Rivoli is lighter. Urban Decay Mildew is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches.

Ink is described as “deep navy blue satin.” It’s a rich, navy blue with cool undertones and a subtle, pearly sheen. It had great color payoff in one pass, and it was buildable as well (if you desired). It wore well for eight and a half hours, and it started to thin after nine and a half hours. This shade is new and exclusive. Urban Decay Sabbath is less shimmery, darker. NARS Rue Saint-Honore is brighter. MAC Blue Stripe is more muted. MAC Petrol Blue is more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

product

Black Market

A-

Overall, the set includes six shades that all wore well on me (between eight and nine hours of good wear, then less stellar wear--such as thinner/faded but no issues with the eyeliners migrating or smudging). Some of the shades lacked really rich, intense pigmentation in one layer, so you will need to build the color up when applying, as most are quite buildable in two to three passes across the lash line.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

West

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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product

Desperation

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, September 5th, 2013

Laura Mercier Cobalt Longwear Eye Pencil
Laura Mercier Cobalt Longwear Eye Pencil

Laura Mercier Cobalt Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a medium, navy blue–there’s just a little brightness so it’s not a full-on navy blue. If it were actually intensely pigmented, it would be really quite a rich shade of blue with a nice balance between bright and dark, so it wouldn’t read neon on the lash line but add more pop than something more muted. The consistency was still creamy, but it was sheer and hard to build up the color even when I went back and forth. It seemed to last about seven hours on the lash line, and then it looked thinner but not smudged or migrated, after eight hours. Sephora My Boyfriend’s Jeans has slight pearl and is brighter. Urban Decay Chaos is brighter. See comparison swatches.

Espresso Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a rich, medium-dark mahogany brown with warm, red undertones and a mostly matte finish. It had good color payoff in a single pass, and it was buildable to fully opaque color in two passes on the lash line. The consistency was creamy and didn’t tug or pull on the skin or eye area. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours without fading, migrating, or smudging, but it does take a little longer to set (which is nice if you tend to smudge your eyeliner). NARS Via de Martelli is lighter, warmer. Make Up For Ever #25L is less warm-toned. Urban Decay Bourbon is similar. NARS Via Appia is darker. MAC Brown Border is similar. MAC Seasonally Spicy is similar, slightly lighter. Make Up For Ever Gypsy is darker. See comparison swatches.

Noir Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a medium-dark black with subtle warm undertones and a mostly matte finish. It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke, but it builds up nicely in two or so passes along the lash line. It wore well for ten hours with very light thinning but no smudging or migrating. Every line needs a black, but you likely already have one in your stash! See comparison swatches.

Laura Mercier’s new Longwear Creme Eye Pencils are supposed to apply smoothly and evenly, be richly pigmented, last for 12 hours (yes, a full 12!), be “water-poof, smudge-proof, transfer-proof, and tear-resistant.” Each pencil comes with a pencil sharpener as well. I can’t say I wet swimming in these, but I did splash my face/eye area with water, and I didn’t experience any of the colors running or bleeding as a result. Cobalt was very prone to being rubbed away (but it didn’t bleed), but Espresso and Noir clung on a lot better and really held up quite well to when in contact with water.

The Glossover

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Cobalt

D-
The consistency was still creamy, but it was sheer and hard to build up the color even when I went back and forth. It seemed to last about seven hours on the lash line, and then it looked thinner but not smudged or migrated, after eight hours.

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Espresso

A-
The consistency was creamy and didn't tug or pull on the skin or eye area. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours without fading, migrating, or smudging, but it does take a little longer to set (which is nice if you tend to smudge your eyeliner).

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Noir

A-
It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke, but it builds up nicely in two or so passes along the lash line. It wore well for ten hours with very light thinning but no smudging or migrating.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, September 5th, 2013

NARS Tatar Eye Paint
NARS Tatar Eye Paint

NARS Tatar Eye Paint ($25.00 for 0.08 oz.) is described as a “black with purple shimmer.” It’s a subtly violet-tinted black with violet, purple, and fuchsia micro-shimmer–which translates as a shimmery, blackened purple. Urban Decay Delinquent appears lighter with larger purple sparkle. MAC Permaplum is lighter, less shimmery. Estee Lauder Blackened Plum is matte. Bobbi Brown Twilight Night is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches.

I was worried this was going to perform like Ubangi, but this didn’t have as much slip (a good thing!), so while it was creamy and easy to spread out, it didn’t sheer out right off the bat. It ended up being more like Snake Eyes in terms of consistency and wear.  As an eyeliner, it applies pretty much with opaque color without skipping or dragging, and as an eyeshadow, it goes on mostly opaque with just a little sheerness.  The formula is buildable, so you can achieve full color coverage by lightly patting on a second layer in the places that need it.  It held up better on the lash line–nine hours without fading or smudging–than on the lid, which is wear it had some slight creasing after eight hours of wear.

You can view all of the other shades of Eye Paint here (which have all been previously reviewed).

The Glossover

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product

Tatar

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Friday, August 30th, 2013

MAC Definitely Black Pro Longwear Eyeliner
MAC Definitely Black Pro Longwear Eyeliner

There are four new shades of MAC Pro Longwear Eyeliner ($19.50 for 0.04 oz.) that have been added to the permanent range. If you had good luck with these when they launched with Apres Chic, I’m sure these will wear similarly. Unfortunately, these didn’t wear well for me then, and they aren’t a particularly long-wearing eyeliner. It’s supposed to be a 12-hour, waterproof formula with “creamy, dense colour that glides on smoothly” and won’t smudge. All four shades show significant signs of wear by eight hours, let alone twelve. The eyeliner thins out considerably and is probably 50% thinner than by the eighth hour than when I initially applied it–this was consistent and happened with all four shades. These were slightly water-resistant, but they didn’t seem waterproof, as they ran slightly (Definitely Black was particularly troublesome).

Definitely Black is described as a “deep black.” It’s a rich, neutral black with a satiny finish. It had fairly good color payoff in a single pass, and it was buildable to opaque color in two layers. A note about this shade… my pencil actually says “Definedly Black,” not Definitely–and online it is listed as Definitely, as in the press release, it was written as Definitely. I’m not sure who’s in the wrong here! There are numerous black eyeliners that wear better and longer (including some by MAC).

Devotion is described as a “deep army green.” It’s a dark, forest green with subtle olive undertones and emerald green shimmer. It was semi-sheer when applied in a single layer, but it was buildable to mostly opaque color with a few passes of color. The consistency was slightly dry. Urban Decay Loaded is darker, less warm-toned. See comparison swatches. I looked at my older green eyeliner swatches but nothing seemed that similar (all were warmer).

Powerline is described as a “muted gold.” It’s a golden brown-bronze with a subtle, metallic sheen. It had decent color payoff in one stroke and was buildable to opaque color. It applied smoothly and evenly, though it was half-gone after eight hours of wear. MAC Gilt Gourmet is more sparkly. NARS Campo de’ Fiori is yellower. See comparison swatches.

Strongly Willed is described as a “deep eggplant.” It’s a dark, warm-toned purple with flecks of violet and berry pearl. It had so-so pigmentation in one pass, and it was buildable to mostly opaque color but it did drag/skip somewhat so it takes a few passes to get there. MAC Purple Dash is lighter. MAC Fancy Moves is also lighter. Chanel Cassis is less shimmery. Bobbi Brown Black Plum is darker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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product

Definitely Black

C+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Devotion

D+

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Powerline

C

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Sunday, August 25th, 2013

Tom Ford Deeper (01) Eye Defining Pencil Pen
Tom Ford Deeper (01) Eye Defining Pencil Pen

Tom Ford Deeper (01) Eye Defining Pencil Pen ($55.00) is a double-ended liquid eyeliner with a calligraphy brush on one end and a squatter, thicker felt-tip on the other. It’s a very deep black (and frustratingly, I still can’t get my black liquid eyeliners to really photograph as black as they are–they always turn brown-ish), but I can assure it is an incredibly rich, deep dark black.

The calligraphy brush is amazing; it makes applying liquid eyeliner a breeze, and you can achieve such thin, precise lines with hardly any pressure. The brush is nicely saturated, so it doesn’t skip or drag while applying, so you can get crisp, opaque line. The calligraphy brush is capable of thicker lines, but it excels at the thin lines in particular.  The formula is very wet, and it takes a few seconds to dry down and set.

The felt-tip side can create thicker lines while still applying with continuous flow across the skin–no dragging or skipping. In the swatch, you can see the eyeliner bled outside the original line, compared with the calligraphy brush as an applicator, which delivered an equally thick line but no bleeding. Sometimes, this can occur when swatched, but the actual performance on the eyelid is better, which was the case here (same thing happened with Hourglass Jett).  The actual liquid eyeliner, regardless of which applicator is used, lasted ten hours on me without flaking or smudging. It removed easily with my shu uemura cleansing oil.

I haven’t tried it myself, but I have heard good things about Jesse’s Girl Liquid Eyeliner, which has an applicator that looks incredibly similar to the calligraphy brush end to this, so I’m definitely going to keep an eye out for that in stores and see how it compares, because I know that this price point is difficult to swallow. (And there are many stellar black liquid eyeliners on the market.)

The Glossover

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product

Deeper (01)

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, August 23rd, 2013

NARS Mozambique Eye Paint
NARS Interstellar Eye Paint

NARS Interstellar Eye Paint ($25.00 for 0.08 oz.) is described as a “silver.” It’s a bright, metallic silver. It had fairly good color payoff, but it was more prone to sheering out than some of the other shades. This is one of the less unique shades in the range, and you can find many silver eyeliners/cream eyeshadows on the market. Maybelline Cool Crush is slightly cooler-toned. Bobbi Brown Chrome is similar. Urban Decay Cuff is darker. Maybelline Silver Strike is similar. MAC Tundra is darker. Buxom Chihuahua is similar. See comparison swatches.

Mozambique is described as “olive.” It’s a mossy, yellow-toned, medium-dark green with a mostly matte finish. It was very, very creamy and pigmented. I felt like this one was prone to sheering out, though, on the lid because of how much slip it had.  I couldn’t think of any eyeliner or cream eyeshadow dupes for this shade–everything was either much darker or much less yellow.

Black Valley is described as “black.” It’s a rich, deep dark black with a matte finish. It is, obviously, a shade that you can find in many brands’ gel eyeliner ranges, so it’s not unique. It just comes down to whether the formula is better for you than others, so while it’s not particularly exciting, it makes sense for every brand to do their version of it since it is a basic. Here are many black eyeliners/black cream eyeshadows from other brands.

Please refer to my original review here for a more in-depth look at the formula as a whole. To recap, Eye Paints are designed to be a long-wearing, highly-pigmented gel formula that can be used as an eyeshadow or as an eyeliner. I applied each shade using NARS’ #38 brush to mimic applying it as an eyeliner (narrow swatch) and then applied the same color with the horizontal edge of the #38 to mimic applying it as an all-over lid color (wide swatch). The formua’s strength is its creaminess and intense color payoff, but it dries and sets very quickly so it can be difficult to blend the shades together or soften the edges if you do not work quickly.

I’m waiting on Tatar in the mail, so I’ll have a review of that shade later next week, but these are the least three shades I tested and found they were in line with the rest of the range. I layered powder eyeshadow over Iskandar and Mozambique (an Inglot gold eyeshadow and MAC Velvet Moss, which I believe is discontinued–I was just aiming to get as close to the base color). Layering powder over the Eye Paints seemed to be the best way to use them all over the eye, as it maximized the wear time–ten to twelve hours with very minimal fading and no creasing–while creating a perfectly even surface once the powder eyeshadows were layered on top. Alone, I had noticeable fading with Mozambique after six and a half hours (Iskandar holds up better–the shimmery shades have been slightly more fade-resistant for longer compared to the more matte shades) but no creasing. It was significantly faded after ten hours. Black Valley and Interstellar wear best as eyeliners, getting to eight hours of wear with no fading or migrating. On the lid, Black Valley manages well for seven hours but starts to fade from there, and it did crease just slightly after eight hours, while Interstellar lasts with just slight fading at eight hours but no creasing.

The Glossover

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product

Mozambique

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Interstellar

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Black Valley

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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