Sunday, August 25th, 2013

Tom Ford Deeper (01) Eye Defining Pencil Pen
Tom Ford Deeper (01) Eye Defining Pencil Pen

Tom Ford Deeper (01) Eye Defining Pencil Pen ($55.00) is a double-ended liquid eyeliner with a calligraphy brush on one end and a squatter, thicker felt-tip on the other. It’s a very deep black (and frustratingly, I still can’t get my black liquid eyeliners to really photograph as black as they are–they always turn brown-ish), but I can assure it is an incredibly rich, deep dark black.

The calligraphy brush is amazing; it makes applying liquid eyeliner a breeze, and you can achieve such thin, precise lines with hardly any pressure. The brush is nicely saturated, so it doesn’t skip or drag while applying, so you can get crisp, opaque line. The calligraphy brush is capable of thicker lines, but it excels at the thin lines in particular.  The formula is very wet, and it takes a few seconds to dry down and set.

The felt-tip side can create thicker lines while still applying with continuous flow across the skin–no dragging or skipping. In the swatch, you can see the eyeliner bled outside the original line, compared with the calligraphy brush as an applicator, which delivered an equally thick line but no bleeding. Sometimes, this can occur when swatched, but the actual performance on the eyelid is better, which was the case here (same thing happened with Hourglass Jett).  The actual liquid eyeliner, regardless of which applicator is used, lasted ten hours on me without flaking or smudging. It removed easily with my shu uemura cleansing oil.

I haven’t tried it myself, but I have heard good things about Jesse’s Girl Liquid Eyeliner, which has an applicator that looks incredibly similar to the calligraphy brush end to this, so I’m definitely going to keep an eye out for that in stores and see how it compares, because I know that this price point is difficult to swallow. (And there are many stellar black liquid eyeliners on the market.)

The Glossover

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Deeper (01)

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, August 23rd, 2013

NARS Mozambique Eye Paint
NARS Interstellar Eye Paint

NARS Interstellar Eye Paint ($25.00 for 0.08 oz.) is described as a “silver.” It’s a bright, metallic silver. It had fairly good color payoff, but it was more prone to sheering out than some of the other shades. This is one of the less unique shades in the range, and you can find many silver eyeliners/cream eyeshadows on the market. Maybelline Cool Crush is slightly cooler-toned. Bobbi Brown Chrome is similar. Urban Decay Cuff is darker. Maybelline Silver Strike is similar. MAC Tundra is darker. Buxom Chihuahua is similar. See comparison swatches.

Mozambique is described as “olive.” It’s a mossy, yellow-toned, medium-dark green with a mostly matte finish. It was very, very creamy and pigmented. I felt like this one was prone to sheering out, though, on the lid because of how much slip it had.  I couldn’t think of any eyeliner or cream eyeshadow dupes for this shade–everything was either much darker or much less yellow.

Black Valley is described as “black.” It’s a rich, deep dark black with a matte finish. It is, obviously, a shade that you can find in many brands’ gel eyeliner ranges, so it’s not unique. It just comes down to whether the formula is better for you than others, so while it’s not particularly exciting, it makes sense for every brand to do their version of it since it is a basic. Here are many black eyeliners/black cream eyeshadows from other brands.

Please refer to my original review here for a more in-depth look at the formula as a whole. To recap, Eye Paints are designed to be a long-wearing, highly-pigmented gel formula that can be used as an eyeshadow or as an eyeliner. I applied each shade using NARS’ #38 brush to mimic applying it as an eyeliner (narrow swatch) and then applied the same color with the horizontal edge of the #38 to mimic applying it as an all-over lid color (wide swatch). The formua’s strength is its creaminess and intense color payoff, but it dries and sets very quickly so it can be difficult to blend the shades together or soften the edges if you do not work quickly.

I’m waiting on Tatar in the mail, so I’ll have a review of that shade later next week, but these are the least three shades I tested and found they were in line with the rest of the range. I layered powder eyeshadow over Iskandar and Mozambique (an Inglot gold eyeshadow and MAC Velvet Moss, which I believe is discontinued–I was just aiming to get as close to the base color). Layering powder over the Eye Paints seemed to be the best way to use them all over the eye, as it maximized the wear time–ten to twelve hours with very minimal fading and no creasing–while creating a perfectly even surface once the powder eyeshadows were layered on top. Alone, I had noticeable fading with Mozambique after six and a half hours (Iskandar holds up better–the shimmery shades have been slightly more fade-resistant for longer compared to the more matte shades) but no creasing. It was significantly faded after ten hours. Black Valley and Interstellar wear best as eyeliners, getting to eight hours of wear with no fading or migrating. On the lid, Black Valley manages well for seven hours but starts to fade from there, and it did crease just slightly after eight hours, while Interstellar lasts with just slight fading at eight hours but no creasing.

The Glossover

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Mozambique

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Interstellar

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Black Valley

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Friday, August 23rd, 2013

NARS Transvaal Eye Paint
NARS Transvaal Eye Paint

NARS Transvaal Eye Paint ($25.00 for 0.08 oz.) is described as a “grey.” It’s a medium-dark, neutral-cool gray with a mostly matte finish. It was intensely pigmented and very creamy. NARS Madison Ave. is bluer, darker. Maybelline Audacious Asphalt is shimmery, warmer. See comparison swatches.

Solomon Islands is described as “turquoise blue.” It’s a medium-dark blue with a hint of teal/green to give it a more turquoise coloring. It has a matte finish and rich color payoff. MAC Mountain Air is darker and pearly, but it was the only turquoise-ish cream eyeshadow/eyeliner I could think of to compare. See comparison swatches.

Ubangi is described as a “black with blue shimmer.” It’s a cool-toned black with medium blue and navy blue micro-shimmer. This particular shade had a very slippery consistency–it was wetter than the others–and the color payoff was less intense as it had a tendency to sheer out. Urban Decay Sabbath is bluer. MAC Night Trail is similar. MAC Petrol Blue is lighter, bluer. MAC Waveline is lighter, less shimmery. bareMinerals Noon is more muted. See comparison swatches.

Please refer to my original review here for a more in-depth look at the formula as a whole. To recap, Eye Paints are designed to be a long-wearing, highly-pigmented gel formula that can be used as an eyeshadow or as an eyeliner. I applied each shade using NARS’ #38 brush to mimic applying it as an eyeliner (narrow swatch) and then applied the same color with the horizontal edge of the #38 to mimic applying it as an all-over lid color (wide swatch). The formua’s strength is its creaminess and intense color payoff, but it dries and sets very quickly so it can be difficult to blend the shades together or soften the edges if you do not work quickly.

As a cream eyeshadow, the wear is just okay; there is some fading apparent after six to seven hours, and Ubangi seemed more prone to fading than the other two shades. I did not experience creasing with any of these shades. When worn as an eyeliner, Solomon Islands did not fade or migrate, and it seemed to last quite well over a nine-hour period. These definitely perform best as eyeliners, less so as cream eyeshadows. If you want to use them as a base, they wear well with powder eyeshadow on top–no creasing or fading after ten hours of wear.

The Glossover

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Transvaal

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Solomon Islands

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Ubangi

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, August 22nd, 2013

NARS Iskandar Eye Paint
NARS Iskandar Eye Paint

NARS Eye Paints ($25.00 for 0.08 oz.) is supposed to be a long-wearing, highly-pigmented gel formula that can be used as an eyeshadow or eyeliner. The consistency is very creamy, and just about every single shade I tried was incredibly pigmented. These dry down very, very quickly, so you have to work fast, and they take some work to blend with each other as a result. Using one or two isn’t so bad, but add a third into the mix, and it can be troublesome. The edges need to be blended almost immediately, or else layered with a similar-colored eyeshadow to help diffuse the drier edge. Yesterday, I wore these primarily as eyeshadows (but also two as eyeliner on the lower lash line) over bare lids. I experienced very slight creasing after seven hours of wear as well as some slight fading, which worsened and was noticeable after eight and a half hours of wear. As an eyeliner, they lasted better and did not fade or migrate over a nine hour period.

Iskandar was the easiest to apply and blend out, while Mesopotamia was the one that set the quickest and was most difficult to blend. I like a fairly flat, somewhat narrow, brush with a little thickness and a domed edge for applying these (I used MAC’s 242), because it’s useful for placing dense color but also has enough density and thickness that it can blend out the edges, too. Today, I’m testing a couple other shades for wear (alone) but as well as with eyeshadow on top (so more as a base) to see how they perform that way. Tomorrow, I’ll try them over NARS’ Smudge Proof Primer to wrap everything up with a neat little bow.  One last thing: the size on these is slightly smaller than average gel eyeliners (usually around 0.10 oz. or so).

Iskandar is described as “gold.” It’s a rich, medium-dark gold with orange and bronze undertones and a copper and gold shimmer. It has a frosted, metallic finish. The color payoff was rich and opaque whether applied as an eyeliner or as an eyeshadow–I used NARS’ #38 brush for the thinner swatch and then turned it horizontally for the larger swatch. NARS Campo de Fiori is similar. Maybelline Bold Gold is less warm-toned. MAC Going for the Gold is darker. Illamasqua Alchemy is yellower. See comparison swatches.

Mesopotamia is described as “brown.” It’s a deep brown with subtle warm, red undertones and a matte finish. It is richly pigmented and applied smoothly. Bobbi Brown Chocolate is warmer. Urban Decay Demolition is similar. MAC rich Experience is also similar. Buxom Two by Four is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches.

Snake Eyes is described as “black with green shimmer.” It’s a deep black with brown undertones with emerald green pearl. It had fairly good color payoff but to make the pearl stand out, two layers are needed. Urban Decay Loaded is lighter. MAC Dark Envy is greener. MAC My Next Indulgence is lighter. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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Iskandar

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Mesopotamia

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Snake Eyes

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Saturday, August 17th, 2013

MAC Deliciously Rich Fluidline
MAC Deliciously Rich Fluidline

MAC’s Indulge Collection (online now, in-stores (and other online retailers) on August 22nd for North America locations) features two new (and limited edition) Fluidlines. Both shades are very glittery/sparkly, so the consistencies isn’t as smooth as cream Fluidlines, and the application is uneven/splotchy. It’s hard to get a good, dense line of color. I found the best way was to load up the brush and then press and almost roll the brush against the lash line to get decent color. I’ve been wearing both for almost eight hours now, and there is significant flaking of color. I wore both on my lower lash line, and depending on your sensitivities, the glitter falling out/flaking off the lash line may cause your eyes to water. I thought they might work better as a base, but when I tried to apply the color as more of a base, it was just as uneven.

Deliciously Rich Fluidline ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “shimmering dirty taupe.” It’s a medium-dark brown with large gold sparkles. I applied this and the other shade with MAC’s 208 for swatches. Urban Decay Corrupt is less sparkly. MAC Lord It Up is similar but easier to apply and is more opaque. MAC Oprheus is a bit darker and less sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Gilt Gourmet Fluidline ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “sparkling burnished gold.” It’s a brown-ish, medium-dark gold with a frosted, metallic finish and larger gold and copper sparkles. MAC Handforged is yellower, warmer. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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product

Deliciously Rich

D

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Dupes
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Gilt Gourmet

D

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Wednesday, August 14th, 2013

Guerlain Amber Silver (05) Eye Pencil
Guerlain Amber Silver (05) Eye Pencil

Guerlain Amber Silver (05) Eye Pencil ($30.00 for 0.01 oz.) is described as a “silver.” It’s more like a silver-shimmered, brownish taupe color with a frosted, metallic finish. It was creamy and had semi-opaque color payoff in a single pass, and it was buildable to mostly opaque color but not fully opaque. It’s the type of color that looks great on the lower lash line to brighten and open up eyes with something more defining than beige. It lasted well for seven hours, and after eight, it looked slightly thinner but did not gather into the corners or smudge. Urban Decay Stray Dog is much darker, as is Urban Decay Mushroom. MAC Catch My Eye is more silver. See comparison swatches.

Black Jack (01) Eye Pencil ($30.00 for 0.01 oz.) is described as a “black.” It’s a deep black with a semi-matte finish. It had good color payoff in a single stroke, and it was buildable to fully opaque color. The consistency was creamy, so the pencil glided on easily without skipping or tugging at the lash line. It wore well for eight and a half hours, and it even managed the water line for six and a half hours. It started to thin slightly but still looked quite nice after ten hours of wear–and no smudging or migration. It’s a basic black eyeliner, which is essential for each brand to have within their range, but it also means there are plenty of similar shades on the market.

It’s a new (but permanent) formula for fall. It looks like a pencil eyeliner, but it is retractable and comes with a plastic sharpener that pops off on the opposite end of the pencil tip. There is slightly less waste compared to your traditional pencil eyeliner, as you do not have to sharpen the full edge away, but you do get 0.01 oz. (compared to 0.04 oz. of a regular pencil eyeliner).

The Glossover

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product

Amber Silver (05)

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Black Jack (01)

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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