Wednesday, November 20th, 2013

Charlotte Tilbury Champagne Diamonds Colour Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil
Charlotte Tilbury Champagne Diamonds Colour Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil

Charlotte Tilbury Colour Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil (£19.00 for 0.06 oz.) were definitely the one formula/product I was excited to test from the new range, as it was getting non-stop raves across the blogosphere. I think whether they work magic for you will depend on how you prefer to use jumbo eyeshadow pencils; if you use them as an all-over wash, you’ll probably like these. If you want to wear them together, not as much, and if you want to wear shadow on top, even less.

They worked best alone, slightly blended and sheered out. They feel amazing when swatched on the arm, but they weren’t as lovely on the eyes–and it did vary across the ultimate texture of the shade. I found that they looked dry on the lid, and instead of traditional creasing, it looked cracked instead in the crease area after seven hours of wear (which is short for me). When I tried to wear the three shades I purchased together, blending was a major challenge. I ended up stippling the lighter color where the two met straight from the pencil, which helped some. The least flattering (in terms of texture on the lid, nothing to do with the color or my skin tone) was Champagne Diamonds, as it made my lids look wrinkly and dried–like it was clinging to the skin–while the most flattering was Smoky Emerald, which was also the creamiest of the three I put my hopes into.  Applying powder eyeshadow on top only worked so-so if it was a sheer layer of the pencil, but it if was a more opaque layer, then eyeshadow seemed to go on unevenly and was difficult to blend.  Most appear to really love these pencils, so my experience seems to be in the minority, and they may be worth trying if they’re accessible.

Charlotte Tilbury Champagne Diamonds Colour Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil (£19.00 for 0.06 oz.) is a warm, champagne-shimmered peachy beige with champagne sparkle. Too Faced Cheers! (LE) is lighter, powder. Maybelline Barely Brazen (P, $6.99) is more champagne-hued, less sparkly. MAC Rich Glance (LE, $21.00) is more beige. Urban Decay Sin (P, $20.00) is pink-tinged. Milani Champagne Toast (P, $6.99) is lighter, less sparkly. MAC Summer Haze (LE, $21.00) is less sparkly, powder. Make Up For Ever #30E (P, $20.00) is less sparkly, slightly pink-tinged. See comparison swatches.

It was mostly opaque on the lid, but it does need to be slightly layered or blended to be even and opaque. The consistency was slightly creamy, and it didn’t drag or pull at lids when applied, but when it is blended, the sparkles seem to move around and some fall out below the eye (and this did happen during wear, too). It dries down almost immediately, so there is little time to blend it out–I found I had to layer a little bit more on the edges to give some blendability to the color. As a wash of color, applied as a more sheer shade, it worked better as it didn’t leave the lid looking dry/wrinkled, and then opacity wasn’t an issue.

Golden Quartz Colour Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil (£19.00 for 0.06 oz.) is a warm, golden, medium-dark brown with gold sparkle. Makeup Geek Utopia (P, $6.99) is more sparkly. Chanel Initiation (827) (LE, $36.00) is lighter. MAC Divine Decadence (LE, $15.00) is more red-toned. Urban Decay Deeper (LE, $18.00) is a powder. MAC Venetian Tarnish (LE) is similar. MAC Tempting (P, $15.00) is a powder. bareMinerals Ritzy (LE) is a powder, not as golden. See comparison swatches.

In a single pass, it had fairly good color payoff, and it was buildable to opaque color in two layers. The consistency was lightly creamy–slightly creamier than Champagne Diamonds–and applied more evenly on the lids. It did, though, dry down almost instantaneously, so blending it was somewhat troublesome. I didn’t have fall out with this shade when I was blending or later on while I wore it.

Smoky Emerald Colour Chameleon Eyeshadow Pencil (£19.00 for 0.06 oz.) is a deep, dark, warm-toned forest green with subtle micro-shimmer and a pearly sheen. Giorgio Armani #25 (LE, $33.00) is cooler-toned, powder. Urban Decay Bender (P, $18.00) is lighter, powder.MAC Vintage Coin (LE) is very similar, slightly lighter. See comparison swatches.

This shade was the most pigmented of the three, and it was also noticeably more emollient–creamier, easier to apply, and remained blendable for about fifteen seconds before drying down. It was also the most flattering, as it did not cling to lids and leave them looking wrinkled/dry.

The Glossover

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product

Champagne Diamonds

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Golden Quartz

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Smoky Emerald

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Wednesday, November 20th, 2013

Laura Mercier Pearl Fantasy Illuminating Eye Colour
Laura Mercier Pearl Fantasy Illuminating Eye Colour

Laura Mercier Pearl Fantasy Illuminating Eye Colour ($24.00 for 0.09 oz.) is a pale, shimmering purple-tinged gray. Dior Constellation (864) #1 (LE) is a bit darker. MAC Time to Tango (LE, $21.00) is darker, bluer. MAC Pastelluxe #4 (P) is more shimmery. Tom Ford Beauty Enchanted #3 (LE) is darker, warmer. See comparison swatches.

The texture was soft, finely-milled, and blendable on the skin, though it could be on the powdery side at times. Pearl Fantasy had good color payoff, but it was not fully pigmented. I could see this being a formula that would work better when applied with a damp brush, as it would take down any powderiness while amplifying the color. When applied dry, the color was buildable to opaque color in two to two and a half layers of product. It wore well for eight hours with minor fading becoming apparent near the nine-hour mark.

Laura Mercier Twilight Caviar Stick ($26.00 for 0.05 oz.) is a cool-toned, medium-dark taupe with an emphasis on gray, but the underlying base color is brown. The finish was pearly–not quite metallic but not frosted. MAC Graphic Style (LE, $15.00) is grayer, powder. Urban Decay Armor (LE, $18.00) is a powder product. Urban Decay Mushroom (P, $18.00) is warmer, powder product. MAC Dynamic Duo 3 #1 (LE, $15.00) is darker, grayer, less pearly, powder. MAC Moth Brown (LE, $15.00) is darker, powder. MAC Stolen Moment (LE, $21.00) is darker, warmer, powder. MAC Electroplate (LE, $18.50) is similar. See comparison swatches.

It was lightly creamy, and it dried down quickly, so I would recommend working one eye at a time so that you can blend and work along the edges. It had fairly good pigmentation in a single stroke, and it was buildable to mostly opaque color coverage with two to three passes. I had light creasing after eight hours of wear, though, which was surprising to see for a long-wear product like this.

The Glossover

LE
product

Pearl Fantasy

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Twilight

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, October 21st, 2013

MAC Stroke of Midnight Eye Bag/Nude
MAC Stroke of Midnight Eye Bag/Nude

MAC Stroke of Midnight/Nude Eye Bag ($39.50 for 0.295 oz.) is a small, zippered bag that contains a Paint Pot ($20.00 value), Fluidline ($16.00 value), In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara ($21.00 value), and a double-ended brush (approximately $10-15 value). The value of the color products is $57 alone, so you’re definitely getting more for your money by purchasing everything as a set; there is also the value of the bag and the double-ended brush that would bring the value to at least $67. Even if you’re just digging the Paint Pot and Fluidline, together they’re $36, so it’s not too bad if the other products are less interesting.

Past Twilight is described as a “blackened plum.” It’s a deep, dark plummy brown with a mostly matte finish. It had nice color payoff in a single stroke, and it had a creamy, easy-to-apply consistency. It wore well without smudging or fading over a twelve-hour period. Urban Decay Demolition (P, $19.00) is browner. MAC Dark Diversion (LE, $16.00) is a bit lighter but still quite similar. bareMinerals 5PM (P, $15.00) is more muted. See comparison swatches.

Utterly Becoming is described as a “creamy beige.” It’s a light-medium rosy beige with warm undertones and a matte finish. The consistency was lightly creamy and easy to spread and blend on the skin. It had opaque color coverage, and it wore well for twelve hours without fading or creasing. Urban Decay Freestyle (LE, $18.00) is a powder product. MAC Inner Strength (LE, $15.00) is a powder product. See comparison swatches. I don’t have it swatched (and I’m not sure I have it at all), but I believe Painterly is grayer/cooler-toned.

The bag seems sturdy and practical enough, and it’s wider than the zipppered Lip Bags, so it can accommodate more products. The dual-ended brush is a toss-in for me; it’s not bad, it’s not great–MAC’s full-sized versions are both better in feel and consistency of the density/shape of the brush heads.  In Extreme Dimension mascara separates and defines, but sometimes it seems to pull out a lot of product on the wand, which needs to be removed so that lashes don’t enter Clump City. I didn’t see a lot of length or volume with the mascara.  I didn’t have any flaking/smudging, though!

P.S. — I did not purchase the Gold or Violet Eye Bags, as they both contain products I’ve reviewed in the past.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Stroke of Midnight/Nude

A+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

6.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Past Twilight

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Utterly Becoming

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Wednesday, October 2nd, 2013

Chanel Fatal (837) Illusion d'Ombre Long-Wear Eyeshadow
Chanel Fatal (837) Illusion d’Ombre Long-Wear Eyeshadow

Chanel Fatal (837) Illusion d’Ombre Long-Wear Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is described as a “silver purple.” It’s a plummy burgundy with soft warm, brown undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. It had good color payoff, but the texture was still creamy and soft, so it could be sheered out to a softer color–I found the warmth of the undertone came through the more I blended it out. It wore well for nine and a half hours and was somewhat faded (but no creasing) after ten and a half hours of wear. Disney Rococo is browner, darker. Kat Von D Fur Elise is matte. theBalm Just This Once Jamie is browner. MAC Universal Appeal is similar. MAC Star Violet is browner, warmer. Giorgio Armani #27 is cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Initiation (827) Illusion d’Ombre Long-Wear Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is described as a “platinum bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, warm, bronzy brown with gold shimmer and sheen. It had stronger yellow undertones than most bronze hues have. It had fairly good color payoff, but it wasn’t fully opaque. The consistency is lightweight and creamy, so it also sheers out easily if you want a wash of color. It wore well for nine hours, and it was showing some signs of fading (but no creasing) after ten hours. Illamasqua Ore is similar but a powder. Girogio Armani #26 is darker, less sparkly. Maybelline Bad to the Bronze is less gold. MAC Woodwinked is powder. Dior Golden Savannah #2 is less metallic, browner. bareMInerals Ritzy is darker, powder. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
product

Fatal (837)

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Initiation (827)

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, September 23rd, 2013

Le Metier de Beaute Champagne Shimmer True Colour Creme Eyeshadow
Le Metier de Beaute Champagne Shimmer True Colour Creme Eyeshadow

Le Metier de Beaute True Colour Creme Eyeshadow ($28.00 for 0.17 oz.) is described as a “long-wearing,” “waterproof,” and crease-resistant. I will respectfully disagree with all three things and not just slightly but fully. Both shades were extremely emollient, and they never set or dried down; they remained movable, slippery, and as a result, slid around and settled into creases with great delight within a half hour. This occurred whether applied at more opaque color or as a barely-there, sheer wash of color. So, long-wearing and crease-resistant–not at all. They’re more water-resistant than waterproof (which is actually a separate claim that gets made: -resistant vs. -proof), as they won’t immediately start running or bleeding when in contact with water, but they do migrate somewhat and will move if you rub. The latter probably has more to do with the fact that they don’t set/dry down.

I did try using the Champagne Shimmer shade on my cheeks and brow bone as a highlight, but the look is very, very dewy–or in my eyes, greasy–and separated my foundation within an hour. I also tried applying these over a primer and then patting on powder eyeshadow on top, which was the most successful way to use them, but I had significant creasing after four and a half hours.

Champagne Shimmer is a light-medium brown with warm, reddish-orange undertones, and a champagne and copper shimmer. It had good color payoff and could be applied as a light wash of color or more intensely for opaque color. A little goes a long way, so apply just a smidgen for a wash of color. CoverGirl Scorching Cocoa is a bit darker, not as red-toned. Clinique Ample Amber is less red-toned. Tom Ford Platinum is slightly darker. Illamasqua Focus is grayer. See comparison swatches.

Starry Night is a medium-dark black with silver sparkle. It can be applied with mostly opaque color or a semi-sheer wash of color. MAC Blacklit is similar. Chanel Mirifique is darker and more sparkly. Buxom Black Lab is similar. See comparison swatches.

Also, this is also a “review” so-to-speak of the September 2013 Beauty Vault VIP Subscription Box, as both of these shades were what I received in this past month’s box. The box, then, had a total value of $56 (and the subscription works out to be $29/month). The box also included a postcard that provided information about the included products. Subscribers did receive the products ahead of them officially being released on Saks by a week or two. After two months, we’re at a total value of $310.

The Glossover

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product

Champagne Shimmer

F

Product

2/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

1/10

Application

2/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Starry Night

F

Product

2/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

1/10

Application

2/5

Results
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2013

Illamasqua Reflection Eyeshadow Palette
Illamasqua Reflection Eyeshadow Palette

Illamasqua Reflection Eyeshadow Palette ($46.50 for 0.20 oz.) is new for fall, and it is supposed to contain four “highly pigmented” eyeshadows with a “water-resistant” and “long-lasting” formula that is “silky” and “effortless” when applying and blending (per Illamasqua’s website). This is really a product that I think translates better in real life, under normal use, than it does in photos. It’s just not something that looks phenomenal in a close-up; no matter how lovely it seemed in person, the camera made the shades look a little iffy. If you like shimmering, sparkling cream eyeshadows, and you’re not going to be taking macro photos of your eye, I suspect you’ll still enjoy it. If you want your makeup to be immaculate, you’ll want to pass.

Every time I checked it in the mirror, I was struck by how pretty and sparkling the eyeshadows looked, but close-ups show that the product has room for improvement. Primarily, as these blend out, there’s an unevenness in texture that creates an almost patchy-looking appearance at times. I noticed that this happened a lot with Graphica, whereas Acute and Dart were much easier and forgiving. Precipice was a little chunky at times and was always the quickest shade to crease of the four.  They are water-resistant, so they won’t immediately smudge and run if your eyes are watery or water splashes on them, but if you rub at them long enough, they will move.

Precipice is described as a “soft lemon.” It’s a soft, light yellow with a sparkling, shimmering finish. It was semi-opaque when applied, but it is shade that worked best when sheered out. If it was applied in layers or at more semi-opaque coverage (in a single layer), it was quick to crease (two to three hours), but if it was sheered out, it held up better and lasted six and a half hours before creasing. Maybelline Shady Shores is darker, yellower. NYX Hot Yellow is a powder. Make Up For Ever #102 is matte, powder. See comparison swatches.

Acute is described as an “ash taupe.” It’s a subtly warm-toned, taupe (mix of gray and brown, heavier on the brown) with a shimmery, sparkling finish. It had good color payoff, and it could be applied with mostly opaque color in a single layer. This shade wore well with only faint creasing visible after eight hours of wear. Edward Bess Dusk is less sparkly, powder. Urban Decay Lost is a powder. Urban Decay Midnight Rodeo is similar. Urban Decay Rehab is less sparkly. MAC Satin Taupe is darker, powder. Chanel Topkapi #2 is similar, powder. See comparison swatches.

Dart is described as a “toasted bronze.” It’s a medium-dark brown with bronze shimmer. It had mostly opaque color coverage in a single layer, which could be softened slightly. It wore well on without creasing for seven hours, but I saw some faint creasing just before the eight-hour mark. Urban Decay Ambush is more frosted, powder. MAC Divine Decadence is darker, powder. Bobbi Brown Golden Bronze is yellower. Too Faced Gangsta is similar, powder. See comparison swatches.

Graphica is described as a “graphite grey.” It’s a medium-dark gray with silver and teal micro-shimmer. This had semi-opaque color–it was weaker compared to the rest of the palette–and when sheered out tended to look a bit patchy. This shade creased after six hours of wear. Urban Decay Redemption is cooler-toned, powder. MAC Polished Jet is more sparkly. Urban Decay Asphalt is similar, powder. MAC Nighttrain is similar, powder. Make Up For Ever #1 is similar. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

palette

Reflection

B-

This is really a product that I think translates better in real life, under normal use, than it does in photos. It's just not something that looks phenomenal in a close-up; no matter how lovely it seemed in person, the camera made the shades look a little iffy. If you like shimmering, sparkling cream eyeshadows, and you're not going to be taking macro photos of your eye, I suspect you'll still enjoy it. If you want your makeup to be immaculate, you'll want to pass.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Precipice

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

5.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Acute

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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