Monday, February 24th, 2014

NARS Cappadoce Matte Multiple
NARS Cappadoce Matte Multiple

NARS Cappadoce Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “golden bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, orange-toned brown with strong, warm orange-yellow undertones and a semi-matte finish. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is lighter, less warm-toned. MAC Exotic Ember (LE, $25.00) is darker, more shimmery. MAC Hibiscus Kiss Bronzer (LE, $25.00) is lighter. Clarins Splendours (LE, $35.00) is lighter. MAC Billionaire Bronze (LE, $29.50) is darker, shimmery. Le Metier de Beaute Sun Drenched (P, $55.00) is very similar but a powder product. See comparison swatches.

It was intensely pigmented, so there should be no trouble getting true-to-tube color! A little goes quite a long way, so I would recommend using a stippling brush to initially apply and build up the color. Depending on your skin tone, it may be a bronzer or contour shade (it seems a little warm to be a true contour, but it will depend on your natural undertones and coloring). To get a sheerer result, apply with a wet brush or sponge. The consistency was just lightly creamy and felt very silicone-like with a velvety, smooth texture. It was moderately drying (though slightly less drying than other shades) when worn on lips, and the color itself lasted for four hours. On cheeks, the color wore well for seven and a half hours before showing signs of fading. For more of an overview of the Matte Multiple formula, check out this post.

The Glossover

P
product

Cappadoce

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, February 24th, 2014

NARS Anguilla Matte Multiple
NARS Anguilla Matte Multiple

NARS Anguilla Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “ginger pink.” It’s a light-medium pink with warm, yellow undertones and a satin-matte finish. Hourglass Radiant Magenta (P, $35.00) is lighter. NARS Love (LE, $29.00) is darker, less pink. Physicians Formula Natural (P, $11.99) is more shimmery. Chanel Revelation (63) (P, $38.00) is brighter, pinker. See comparison swatches.

It has a near-matte finish that has enough to it (so hard to describe it as a sheen, as it is so subtle!) that it doesn’t look completely matte, but it won’t emphasize pores or skin imperfections as there’s no shimmer to the finish. It had excellent color payoff in a single pass, but it can be applied more sparsely for less coverage, as the formula has a velvety, silicone-like consistency that makes blending fairly easy. It can be applied wet for sheerer coverage from the start (drier application will yield more color payoff). As a blush, it wore well for seven hours before showing signs of fading. As a lip color, it lasted two and a half hours, and it was very drying and uncomfortable to wear, as it tended to cling and sink into lip lines over time. For more of an overview of the Matte Multiple formula, check out this post.

The Glossover

P
product

Anguilla

B

Keep in mind, the rating is a reflection of the product used on cheeks as well as on lips, and the formula is clingy and drying when worn on the lips, whereas it performs better as a cream blush. Depending on what you're looking for, you might bump up the grade (in your mind) if you only would wear it on cheeks, or drop the overall rating if you just wanted a lip product.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014

NARS Altai Matte Multiple
NARS Altai Matte Multiple

NARS Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) are new (and permanent!) for spring. They’re supposed to be a lip-and-cheek multi-tasking product with a “creamy, lightweight formula that delivers buildable, long-lasting, hydrating color for lips and cheeks.” Application makes a difference: if you want sheerer color from the get-go, apply wet, and if you want color truest to what you see in the tube, use dry. I preferred to use a stippling brush to grab color from the tube and then to apply on the face (so not directly from the tube).

I’ve worked my way through four of them (reviews for all to come) so far, and Altai was the first one I tried. Three of the shades in the range can be thought of as closer to traditional bronzers or cream contour sticks–Altai is the lightest, followed by Vientiane and Cappadoce. All seven shades have a satin-matte finish–a very tiny amount of sheen to keep it the finish from being a really flat matte, but it’s not shimmery or a true satin finish either. The other four shades are the more traditional blush shades, but as always, “rules” (or even “guidelines”) are made to be broken, so any shades can be used on cheeks or lips. I don’t like these on lips at all; I find them uncomfortable, a little clingy, and just drying from start to finish. For me, they’re really hard to even wear and test on lips, because I can feel them sitting on the lips in a way that’s bothersome. Like the regular Multiples, it’s not a product I would wear on lips, as the product clings and dries out lips. On cheeks, they work a lot better, and I felt like the biggest takeaway was really how blendable the textures were. They remain blendable for a couple of minutes, so you don’t have to feel too rushed, but they won’t move around a lot. The texture feels silicone-like, almost velvety, light to medium weight, and smooth.  So far, the wear has ranged from seven to nine hours.  They wear well over as well as under liquid foundation, and of course, do well over bare skin.  I noticed that if you need to blend a lot (e.g. Siam is very, very intense in color and pigmentation), it will be problematic applied over foundation, but if you only do light to moderate blending, it is fine.

The original Multiples were one of the more expensive NARS products in the range, and the original range is $39.00 and contain 0.50 oz. The Matte Multiples still cost $39 a pop, but they contain a mere 0.26 oz. The tube is the same length, but it is noticeably skinnier. It’s such a drastic difference in size, so it’s disappointing to see the price remain the same despite a size reduction of nearly 50%. Will one tube last awhile? Absolutely. Does a tube of intensely pigmented lipstick last longer than a sheer tube of lipstick? Absolutely–but you don’t usually see a drastic size reduction/price difference in the same formula just because one is more pigmented than the other. I definitely think that there have been improvements in the formula–it feels smoother, less dry overall–compared to the original formula, but whether it’s worth it is for you to decide.  They’re online at narscosmetics.com as well as Sephora (but will be available wherever NARS is sold soon).

Altai Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “rose bronze.” It’s a light-medium, warm-toned peach-brown with orange undertones and a satin-matte finish. It was intensely pigmented, though it was easily softened and sheered out (even with a dry application) if desired.  The texture is creamy, smooth, and very blendable, and this particular shade seemed to wear well for about seven hours on the cheeks and three hours on the lips. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is darker. Clarins Splendours (LE, $35.00) is more orange. NARS Silvana (P, $29.00) is more shimmery. NARS Madly (P, $29.00) is browner, more shimmery. MAC Harmony (P, $21.00) is browner. MAC Refined Golden (P, $25.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

P
product

Altai

B

Keep in mind, the rating is a reflection of the product used on cheeks as well as on lips, and the formula is clingy and drying when worn on the lips, whereas it performs better as a cream blush. Depending on what you're looking for, you might bump up the grade (in your mind) if you only would wear it on cheeks, or drop the overall rating if you just wanted a lip product.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2014

Chanel Jardin de Camelias Illuminating Powder
Chanel Jardin de Camelias Illuminating Powder

Chanel Jardin de Camelias Illuminating Powder ($70.00 for 0.54 oz.) is described as a “sheer ivory … with rosy highlights.” It’s a pale beige with a champagne shimmer-sheen that’s very, very subtle. Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight (P, $44.00) is more shimmery. Chanel Poudre Signee de Chanel Illuminating Powder (LE, $68.00) is more shimmery. Chanel Lumiere Sculptee de Chanel Highlighting Powder (LE, $72.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

According to Chanel, their newest limited edition Illuminating Powder is supposed to “delicately [illuminate] the face with an imperceptible halo.” The powder itself is embossed with a camellia flower. It’s a very subtle powder that can easily be dusted all over the face for a softening, lightly brightening and illuminating effect. If you’re someone who has felt like most highlighters are too shimmery, sparkly, or frosty, then this is one to consider, as it’s the very definition of subtle. On the other hand, if you want to use this to yield a more targeted glow on the high planes of the face, it’s so subtle that it might not be enough for your liking. “Delicate” is quite right, and “sheer” is correct to a degree. It’s somewhat buildable if you want to concentrate the illumination on a certain part, but it blends and sheers out as you blend the powder into the skin. The texture is soft, finely-milled, and blendable, while the product itself lasted for eight hours on me.

The Glossover

LE
product

Jardin de Camelias

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2014

Chanel Sakura (87) Joues Contraste Blush
Chanel Sakura (87) Joues Contraste Blush

Chanel Sakura (87) Joues Contraste Blush ($43.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a light-medium pink with warm, yellow undertones and gold sparkle strewn over a satin finish. Giorgio Armani Eccentrico (LE, $88.00) is more shimmery. Urban Decay Overexposed (LE) is darker. Edward Bess Filled with Desire (P, $43.00) is lighter. MAC Royal Sunset (LE, $21.00) is warmer. MAC Launch Away (LE, $21.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Sakura is a new and limited edition shade that’s exclusive to Chanel.com (it may also be in Chanel boutiques, but the information I have says online only, so you might call to see if a physical location is near to you). It had more buildable color payoff, and it seemed to build up to semi-opaque color coverage at most, which is in line with how it’s described (“buildable coverage”). The texture was soft, finely-milled, and a smidgen powdery when applying, but on the skin, it seems to melt and smooth out so it doesn’t look powdery or dry on the cheeks. It was very easy to blend and soften the edges as I applied it as a blush. The color wore well for almost eight hours before it began to fade around the edges.

The Glossover

LE
product

Sakura (87)

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, February 20th, 2014

Le Metier de Beaute Sun Drenched Bronzer
Le Metier de Beaute Sun Drenched Bronzer

Le Metier de Beaute Sun Drenched Bronzer ($55.00 for 0.49 oz.) is a deepened, orange-toned brown with subtle gold sparkle. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is less warm-toned, matte. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is more shimmery, lighter. Wet ‘n’ Wild Bikini Contest (P, $3.99) is lighter, more muted. Clarins Splendours (LE, $35.00) is less shimmery, a little lighter. See comparison swatches.

According to the brand, the bronzer is described as a “sheer, silky-light powder.” If by sheer, they mean, intensely pigmented with the merest flick of the wrist, sure, we’re on the same page, but since that’s not at all what sheer means, their description is far off. The powder is so, so pigmented–a little goes such a long way–but the texture is incredibly soft, silky, and finely-milled, so at least part of what they say is true. It’s just slightly powdery, though. It’s absolutely possible to get a softer, sheerer application out of the bronzer, but you’ll want to use a stippling or less-dense brush and a lighter hand to do so. Otherwise, the application is easy, as the powder is very blendable, and it wears for a full eight hours before gradually fading.

The Glossover

P
product

Sun Drenched

B

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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