Sunday, May 12th, 2013

Tom Ford Blush Guilt Illuminating Cheek Color
Tom Ford Blush Guilt Illuminating Cheek Color

Tom Ford Blush Guilt Illuminating Cheek Color ($58.00 for 1.0 oz.) is described as a “natural, radiant glow.” It’s a warm-toned, pink bronze with a glowing, illuminating sheen. Of the two shades for summer, this is the most dupable, as it doesn’t add a lot of color, just sheen. It’s not as warm-toned as the other illuminator, Fire Lust, which has a liquid consistency, and the form of this one makes it easier to apply in specific spots, rather than mixed with foundation or moisturizer.

Bronzed Amber ($58.00 for 1.0 oz.) is described as a “natural, bronzed glow.” It imparts a warm, bronzy sheen and barely-there shimmer to wherever it is applied. It only adds very slight warmth to my medium complexion, so I think it wouldn’t be too strong on pale complexions and then on deeper skin tones, it will be more of a gleam than added color.

The Illuminating Cheek Color is a solid, creamy stick of color designed to illuminate the skin. These reminded me of NARS’ The Multiples, though the texture of this formula is creamier, less waxy, and glides on better. It also seems to be more flattering against my skin (in terms of texture), because it blends out more readily and easily. I would guess that Orgasm would be somewhat similar to Blush Guilt (I think Orgasm might be a bit pinker), while Bronzed Amber would be somewhat similar to Palm Beach (you can see some really old group swatches of The Multiples here). I think these are sheerer, and designed to be that way given they’re illuminators, compared to some of the Multiple shades available (think more in the style of Copacabana).

The texture is emollient without being too slippery or slick, so it blends and spreads easily across the skin, while not becoming oily looking throughout the day.  Blush Guilt seemed to last (I was judging how glowy the area looked) for seven hours well but was mostly faded after nine hours.  Bronzed Amber wore slightly better and was visible well into the eighth hour but was half-gone by nine hours.  I think Bronzed Amber is more versatile, as it can add some color/definition (it’s not too warm-toned and not an orange-toned bronzer) as well as a sheen.

The Glossover

LE
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Blush Guilt

A-
Blush Guilt seemed to last (I was judging how glowy the area looked) for seven hours well but was mostly faded after nine hours.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Bronzed Amber

A
I think Bronzed Amber is more versatile, as it can add some color/definition (it's not too warm-toned and not an orange-toned bronzer) as well as a sheen.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, May 11th, 2013

Tom Ford Fire Lust Skin Illuminator
Tom Ford Fire Lust Skin Illuminator

Tom Ford Fire Lust Skin Illuminator ($65.00 for 0.68 fl. oz.) is described as a “shimmering, peach-pink.” It’s a warm-toned, golden-shimmered coral-orange with a pearly sheen. This is an illuminator, not a blush, so if you’re more in the market for something with substantial coloring to work as a blush, try perusing the coral swatch gallery.

The formula is designed to mimic “the look of skin bathed in summer evening light.” And you’ll have to track it down in-store to find it, because it sold out online nearly instantly. The Skin Illuminator can be applied all over, mixed with foundation, or as a spot highlighter “under or over makeup.”  The consistency is lightweight, naturally dewy, and thin.  When I wore it all-over, it lasted all day long with whatever foundation I was wearing (it didn’t seem to reduce my foundation’s wear time or how it looked at the end of the day).  As a spot highlighter, it gave me a dewy finish wherever it was applied for eight hours.

I, personally, think it works best mixed with foundation or moisturizer. I’ve been wearing Giorgio Armani’s Maestro foundation a lot, and it doesn’t work well mixed with this (I think it has too much of a velvety texture from the silicones in it), but I loved it mixed with my tinted moisturizer or a more traditional liquid foundation like Make Up For Ever HD. If you want to wear it all-over and plan to still wear foundation, I recommend mixing the two together during application, because then the foundation doesn’t cover it. There’s a very subtle radiance that’s your-skin-but-better that doesn’t read shimmer, glitter, or pearl. Applied as a spot highlighter  it does create a glowy, dewy sheen, but it’s virtually colorless against my skin tone so it would be something better suited for really pale complexions.

The Beauty Look Book has a great comparison of this against NARS’ Orgasm Illuminator (which I don’t have), which seems to be pinker overall (but it is also $30.00 for 1.1 oz.), so it might be a more affordable (and accessible) alternative.

The Glossover

LE
product

Fire Lust

A

This is an illuminator, not a blush, so if you're more in the market for something with substantial coloring to work as a blush, try perusing the coral swatch gallery. It adds a lovely dewy sheen or all-over glow if mixed with your moisturizer/foundation. It's something I'd wear most often with tinted moisturizer or a foundation that was too matte.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, May 11th, 2013

Edward Bess Summer in Capri Quad Royale
Edward Bess Summer in Capri Quad Royale

Edward Bess Summer in Capri Quad Royale ($45.00 for 0.25 oz.) is described as a “beige pink.” It’s a medium-dark brown with a rosy, plummy tinge and a satiny sheen. The individual colors are: a soft peach, warm beige-peach with a satin sheen, muted, medium brown with neutral undertones, and pale peach with a satin finish. bareMinerals The Indecent Proposal is much darker, more plum, less beige. MAC Darkly my Dear is darker but similar in color. NARS Douceur is slightly browner. Burberry Cameo is rosier.

The palette is primarily marketed as a cheek product, though it can be used on the eyes. It contains four shades to “sculpt and highlight the face.” As a blush/cheek color, it’s easier to use sections but not individual shades, as only the bottom right shade is large enough to accommodate a blush brush (and even that is not that large). Summer in Capri had good, true-to-pan color payoff, but it’s a lighter shade and will not show up well on medium-dark and deeper complexions, so I would recommend it primarily for lighter skin tones.

It is subtle on my skin tone (I’m medium) and adds some definition and color without being over-the-top. The texture is soft like silk, incredibly finely-milled, and so smooth. The finish is lovely with a satiny sheen that doesn’t look shimmery or heavy on the skin and gives skin a natural-looking glow. It lasted eight and a half hours well on my skin, and it started to fade after nine hours of wear.

The Glossover

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product

Summer in Capri

A
Summer in Capri had good, true-to-pan color payoff, but it's a lighter shade and will not show up well on medium-dark and deeper complexions, so I would recommend it primarily for lighter skin tones.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, May 4th, 2013

MAC Soft Sand Bronzing Powder
MAC Soft Sand Bronzing Powder

MAC Soft Sand Bronzing Powder ($25.00 for 0.35 oz.) is described as a “golden bronze with fine gold pearl.” It’s a yellowy, medium-dark tan brown with a golden shimmer-sheen finish. Illamasqua Disobey is a browner and has no shimmer. Too Faced Bronzed & Poreless is warmer, more orange, and matte.

As I mentioned in my review for MAC’s Refined Golden, there were some serious texture issues (oddities?) with the regular bronzing powders in this collection. A few readers chimed in and said they had similar issues with past limited edition releases of the normally-permanent shades. That, of course, worries me, because I was originally chalking it up to being one-off, because the permanent versions have a normal, powder-like texture. The texture of Soft Sand almost felt like plastic–almost like a very stiff cream bronzer that didn’t give much payoff at all. I took a paper tough and just went to town getting the first few layers off, and that seemed to help quite a bit. I was able to get it to pick up on my brush after that and had it show up well on my skin. It lasted just under eight hours well without fading.  I had issues with the texture of last year’s Soft Sand, too; there were very similar issues but this felt even worse and even harder to get to work.

The Glossover

LE
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Soft Sand

F
I had issues with the texture of last year's Soft Sand, too; there were very similar issues but this felt even worse and even harder to get to work.

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

4/10

Texture

3/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2013

MAC Refined Golden Bronzing Powder
MAC Refined Golden Bronzing Powder

MAC Refined Golden Bronzing Powder ($25.00 for 0.35 oz.) is described as a “finely spun gold with soft pearl finish.” When I swatched it, it was a medium-dark tan brown with a mostly matte finish–hardly any shimmer/sparkle, though I could see it in the pan. Guerlain Terra Nerolia is more orange and shimmery. Too Faced Bronzed & Poreless is more yellow-toned. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes is darker.

I had a very odd experience with this shade (as well as the other one, which I’ll be reviewing soon), which was it was nearly impossible to get color payoff out of it. It felt like plastic almost, not a powder; I almost thought it was a cream. I have, actually, once received a powder compact that was filled with a plastic “powder” pan instead of a real powder pan. I thought maybe it was twice lucky… No, it was a powder–I scraped at it with a metal spatula to dislodge enough product to swatch. It felt almost creamy but there was next to no color payoff. But lo and behold, after rubbing off a few layers with a paper towel, it seemed to be more like a powder. I was able to get it to show up on my cheeks. It lasted seven and a half hours on me, and then it was slightly faded after eight hours.

With all of that said, my version is a press sample, and though it was in regular retail packaging (so it wasn’t an early batch or a small-run of products, which just means it should be what you get), I’m so baffled by it, I’m not really sure. This is part of the permanent range, though, and I have had this shade previously without the odd texture issues. My rating is based on this being a one-off, odd occurrence (and rating based on the texture of my older compact) but recommend checking it out for yourself or buying the permanent version (cheaper and available in a black compact).  I’m still finding it a very, very bizarre event.

The Glossover

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product

Refined Golden

B+
My rating is based on this being a one-off, odd occurrence (and rating based on the texture of my older compact) but recommend checking it out for yourself or buying the permanent version (cheaper and available in a black compact).

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2013

MAC Sun Dipped Pro Longwear Bronzing Powder
MAC Sun Dipped Pro Longwear Bronzing Powder

MAC Sun Dipped Pro Longwear Bronzing Powder ($30.00 for 0.42 oz.) is described as a “dirty red tone.” It’s a subtly warm-toned, medium-dark tan brown with a slight gray cast and a golden shimmer-sheen finish. Illamasqua Disobey is warmer and matte. MAC Golden is lighter.

Sun Dipped is just as fantastic as Nude on Board, which is always a good sign, because consistency is really an underrated characteristic. It has the same creamy, buttery, silky-smooth texture that elevates this product from good to great. The pigmentation is buildable, as described, and can be applied sheerly, semi-sheerly, or more moderately. This particular shade almost has a shadowy tint to it, so it might work as a contour for some (though I hesitate to mention that, because it is shimmery and contour powders tend to be more matte, but as this blends out, the shimmer turns into a very subtle sheen so it looks rather natural). When I wore Sun Dipped yesterday, it wore well for a full nine hours and only had slight fading after ten hours.

The Glossover

LE
product

Sun Dipped

A+
The texture is phenomenal; so soft and silky but never powdery. It sits well on the skin and looks natural. Plus, it wears well!

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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