Saturday, March 8th, 2014

IT Cosmetics Hello Light Illuminating Powder
IT Cosmetics Hello Light Illuminating Powder

IT Cosmetics Hello Light Illuminating Powder ($24.00 for 0.33 oz.) is a warm-toned, medium beige with a frosted finish. Becca Moonstone (P, $38.00) is lighter. theBalm Mary Lou-manizer (P, $24.00) is lighter. MAC Star! (LE) is similar. MAC Belightful (LE) less gold. Chanel Mouche de Beaute Illuminating Powder (LE, $80.00) is darker. bareMinerals The Shining Moment (LE, $26.00) is a little lighter. Bobbi Brown 24 Karat (P, $42.00) is more frosted, darker. See comparison swatches.

This is supposed to give a “true airbrushed look that works on all ages.” It’s also supposed to give a “natural radiance” while blurring pores and imperfections. It’s actually a very chameleon-like product, because in the pan and when photographed, it looks almost golden beige, but I noticed that at times, it looked almost showed as a silvery-white gleam on my medium complexion–ashy in a way, so it might be better suited for fairer skin tones. For a less pronounced sheen, I would recommend a stippling brush and a lighter hand. It doesn’t have glitter, but it has very, very fine shimmer that translates into a highly reflective sheen. The only way I could get this to apply and not look metallic was with a fan brush and use very, very little product. It didn’t do well on drier skin, as it emphasized the imperfections. I don’t feel like this blurred any pores or imperfections on my skin at all. The texture is incredibly soft and finely-milled, almost buttery, and really feels like silk. I love a good highlighter, and there are so many I love and reach for, but this one felt like three times the work to get just right. Once on, it lasts eight hours on me.

The Glossover

P
product

Hello Light

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, March 3rd, 2014

Maybelline Nude Rebellion (201) Master Glaze Glisten Blush Stick
Maybelline Nude Rebellion (201) Master Glaze Glisten Blush Stick

For spring, Maybelline released two limited edition shades of Master Glaze in its Dare to Go Nude Collection. The Master Glaze formula is supposed to give cheeks a “dewy and gently glazed” look with “the sheerest color.” They have a slick, very emollient consistency, so they blend out really easily, even over foundation, without disturbing underlying base products. They never fully set or dry down, which leaves the finish looking noticeably luminous and dewy–for some, it might look “oily,” as it is a higher level of sheen. Wear time is short, though, and I don’t get much longer than six hours of wear before it looks faded and patchy.

Nude Rebellion (201) Master Glaze Glisten Blush Stick ($8.99 for 0.24. oz.) is peachy-bronze with a champagne sheen and metallic finish. This one is more metallic, and it did emphasize pores somewhat, depending on the angle and how the light hit the skin. It lasted six hours on my skin before looking patchy. It is rather sheer on cheeks, and even when built up, gives merely a slight warmth to the natural skin tone (fairer skin tones may see more color). Revlon Naughty Nude (006) (P, $9.99) is less metallic, darker. MAC Talk of the Town (LE, $25.00) is lighter. Laura Mercier Spellbound (LE, $42.00) is darker, warmer. Tom Ford Beauty Blush Guilt (LE, $58.00) is lighter. MAC Superb (LE, $30.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Barely Pink (202) Master Glaze Glisten Blush Stick ($8.99 for 0.24. oz.) is a light-medium, warm-toned pink with soft gold shimmer and a frosted finish. This shade was less metallic on, and it didn’t accentuate pores or skin imperfections, though it sadly only lasted for five and a half hours. Too Faced Peachy Keen (LE) has more of a golden sheen. MAC Rio (LE, $30.00) is lighter. Milani Dolce Pink (P, $7.99) has more golden shimmer. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
product

Nude Rebellion (201)

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Barely Pink (202)

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2014

Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette
Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette

Urban Decay Native Naked Flushed Palette ($30.00 for 0.49 oz.) is a new trio that features a bronzer, highlighter, and blush. It is a follow up to Naked Flushed. This one seems to [attempt to] match the blush to the colors of Native Lipstick and Native Lip Pencil, which are both light-medium pinks. I don’t think it’s a great match for either the lipstick or pencil, as it is distinctly cool-toned, whereas the lipstick is warm-toned and the pencil more neutral-to-warm-toned. To me, the color is a better match for Obsessed Lipstick. I didn’t like the original Naked Flushed palette, as I felt like the texture was firm and drier, but I didn’t love this one either, as it was powdery–makes me feel a bit like Goldilocks. Though you’ll see excess powder as you grab product onto your applicator, it doesn’t seem to look powdery on the skin, so that’s definitely a plus. It’s not ideal to have so much excess sitting on the surface of the pan when there are three shades that sit next to each other. The highlighter emphasizes pores/skin texture, which is a drawback. If used lightly, that effect can be lessened, but some care is required–it’s not foolproof.

Bronzer is described as a “medium bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, warm-toned brown with a satin finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was very soft and smooth, but it was powdery. When I applied it to cheeks, it was easy to do so–it blended easily, and it didn’t look powdery on. The bronzer wore well for eight hours before showing signs of fading. Urban Decay Naked Flushed Bronzer (P) is yellower. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is less shimmery, darker. Tarte Park Ave. Princess (P, $29.00) is more shimmery, yellower. MAC Love, Rihanna (LE, $25.00) is lighter. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is darker, more shimmery. MAC Lush Light Bronze (LE, $28.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Highlighter is described as a “pale pink shimmer.” It is a light, pink-tinged peach with light, warm undertones and a champagne shimmer-sheen. The finish is fairly frosted, and the pigmentation was really true-to-pan and rich, so a little of the highlighter goes a long way! I thought it applied best with feathery, sweeping motions and a less dense brush onto the high planes of the face. It did emphasize pores slightly, and it wore well for seven and a half hours before starting to look patchy. NARS Devotee (LE, $29.00) is very similar. MAC Sparkling Rose (LE) is darker, warmer. Urban Decay Glint (LE) is darker. Urban Decay Naked (P, $29.00) is lighter, more sparkly. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is pinker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Blush is described as a “bright pink.” It’s a brightened, light-medium pink with cool, blue undertones and a mostly matte finish. The texture was soft and finely-milled but powdery, so the color was somewhat buildable but easily sheered out as it was applied so I wouldn’t describe it as richly pigmented. This shade didn’t adhere as well to bare, normal-to-dry skin, but if you typically wear a liquid or cream foundation and apply over that, it should apply more readily. It wore well for seven hours on me before fading. NARS New Attitude (LE, $29.00) is warmer, darker. Milani Delizioso Pink (10) (P, $7.99) is darker. Givenchy It-Girl Purple (P, $44.00) is more shimmery, lighter. NARS Mistinguette (LE, $29.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Quickie (LE) is darker, brighter. theBalm Argyle (P, $22.00) is warmer. theBalm Down Boy (P, $21.00) is similar. MAC Peony Petal (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler-toned. MAC I’m the One (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

A word about names: there have been a few more recently released products with names that have stirred readers’ feelings. I want to reiterate that discussion is encouraged on Temptalia, and it is good to have open, honest, and civil conversations about things that are important to each of us. Please take great care in appreciating the diversity in opinions within the community without invalidating the other person’s feelings. While a name may not bother one person or someone interprets it differently than someone else, just because one person is not offended doesn’t mean that someone else shouldn’t be or can’t feel the way that they do. There are a million names to choose from, so if and when brands choose one over another, it’s okay to question that choice. You can read why the name of this product hasn’t been well-received by some readers here.

The Glossover

P
palette

Native

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Bronzer

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Highlighter

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2014

Chanel Jardin de Camelias Illuminating Powder
Chanel Jardin de Camelias Illuminating Powder

Chanel Jardin de Camelias Illuminating Powder ($70.00 for 0.54 oz.) is described as a “sheer ivory … with rosy highlights.” It’s a pale beige with a champagne shimmer-sheen that’s very, very subtle. Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight (P, $44.00) is more shimmery. Chanel Poudre Signee de Chanel Illuminating Powder (LE, $68.00) is more shimmery. Chanel Lumiere Sculptee de Chanel Highlighting Powder (LE, $72.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

According to Chanel, their newest limited edition Illuminating Powder is supposed to “delicately [illuminate] the face with an imperceptible halo.” The powder itself is embossed with a camellia flower. It’s a very subtle powder that can easily be dusted all over the face for a softening, lightly brightening and illuminating effect. If you’re someone who has felt like most highlighters are too shimmery, sparkly, or frosty, then this is one to consider, as it’s the very definition of subtle. On the other hand, if you want to use this to yield a more targeted glow on the high planes of the face, it’s so subtle that it might not be enough for your liking. “Delicate” is quite right, and “sheer” is correct to a degree. It’s somewhat buildable if you want to concentrate the illumination on a certain part, but it blends and sheers out as you blend the powder into the skin. The texture is soft, finely-milled, and blendable, while the product itself lasted for eight hours on me.

The Glossover

LE
product

Jardin de Camelias

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, February 1st, 2014

MAC Perfect Topping Mineralize Skinfinish
MAC Perfect Topping Mineralize Skinfinish

MAC Perfect Topping (2014) Mineralize Skinfinish ($30.00 for 0.32 oz.) is described as a “pale pearlized pink.” The one I just purchased from this collection is a peach muted by beige with a frosted finish. The one I have from when it launched in 2009 is distinctly pink, almost cool-toned really. The colors of the veins did not even appear that similar in the pans, as it seems to be more than an issue of a different distribution of the types of colored veins. The texture was soft but powdery, and it will most likely be a highlighter on all but the very fairest of skin tones. It wore well for six hours before it turned patchy and slightly faded along the edges, which is the norm for me when wearing MAC’s Mineralize cheek products. bareMinerals The Many Splendors #2 (LE) is lighter. MAC Amber Glow (LE, $25.00) is less frosted. Le Metier de Beaute Whisper (P, $30.00) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Stereo Rose (2014) Mineralize Skinfinish ($30.00 for 0.32 oz.) is described as a “copper bronze.” It’s a light-medium, warm-toned peach with a frosted, somewhat metallic, sheen. Oh, the difference between this Stereo Rose (again, just purchased from MAC’s website on Thursday AM!) and the one I have from the end of 2012 are like night and day. I used a paper towel to rub off several layers of product from the new version to see if it would get better but no luck. Still a very light peach compared to the deeper pinky-coral of previous years. The texture is soft but on the dry side, so it can be powdery, and it wore well for six hours before showing some fading. It is a couple of shades darker than Perfect Topping #2. bareMinerals The Many Splendors #2 (LE) is lighter. MAC Amber Glow (LE, $25.00) is less shimmery. Le Metier de Beaute Whisper (P, $30.00) is a touch lighter. See comparison swatches.

Mineralize Skinfinishes can differ from pan to pan, as it is a mix of different shades and veins, so sometimes there is variance, but I think these go beyond variance. The pans of Perfect Topping don’t look alike at all; we have a mix of lilac, pink, and peachy-beige compared to beige, peach, and a murky lavender. Swatched, the original is definitely pink and on the cooler side. The differences between the two Stereo Roses in the pan seems less obvious–the newly released version appears lighter and less pinky-red, and the most obvious missing component is the coppery veining. However, when swatched, it is such a huge, huge difference.

It’s extremely frustrating that MAC re-releases sought after products, and they’re different. (As an aside, Lily White pigment is also very different from the previously released Lily White.) It is inexcusable to see Stereo Rose so drastically different from when it was released a mere year ago. If MAC can’t keep the color same, they should name it something different – that’s all there is to it. They put out an endless stream of new shades and products with minor differences from something they’ve previously released, but they have new names, so at least no one’s buying it off of older swatches or from previous hype.

The Glossover

LE
product

Perfect Topping (2014)

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Stereo Rose (2014)

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Monday, January 20th, 2014

NARS NARSissist Cheek Kit
NARS NARSissist Cheek Kit

NARS NARSissist Cheek Kit ($49.00 for 0.24 oz.) includes three cheek products–a highlighter, blush, and bronzer. I can’t tell you how frustrating it was to start photographing and swatching this only to realize that lo and behold, it’s Orgasm and Laguna yet again. NARS has a full range of blushes, and even more, a lot of them are amazing. I wish NARS would work on introducing fans to new shades rather than throwing the same two at us over and over again. If you picked up the One Night Stand palette over the holidays, you already have all three shades within that palette. The permanent versions of Orgasm and Laguna that I have are both softer, less stiff,  and easier to work with than the palette versions included here. I didn’t care for the brush; it was somewhat scratchy and rough against the skin. I used it for application, and it agitated the skin on my cheeks to subtle but reddened bumps (something I experience with MAC’s 129 as well).

In terms of value, it’s hard to really pinpoint it, since you are getting a brush with it. If we just pretend the brush isn’t part of the equation, it works out to be $204.17/oz. as compared to $181.25/oz. for a full-sized blush (and $128.57/oz. for full-sized Laguna). You can also purchase a duo of Orgasm/Laguna for $41 (or $117.14/oz., as it contains 0.35 oz. — more than this palette in total!), or the mini-sized version for $24 (0.17 oz. total, or $141.18/oz.).

Devotee is a pale, pink-tinged beige with a frosted finish. The texture is soft, lightweight, and easy to blend. It had buildable color payoff to about semi-opaque, but it is designed to be a highlighter than a blush. I was surprised, but it just barely emphasizes pores, and if you really blend it out a lot, it becomes very glowy and luminous without the emphasis. It wears six and a half hours on me, which is short of average. Urban Decay Naked (P, $29.00) is similar. Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight (P, $44.00) is warmer. NARS Debbie Harry Highlighter (LE, $29.00) is cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Orgasm is described as a “peachy pink with golden shimmer.” It’s a warm, medium pink with a stong golden shimmer-sheen. Too Faced Peachy Keen (LE) is similar. Guerlain Blush G (LE, $65.00) is also similar. Milani Dolce Pink (P, $6.49) is very similar. Guerlain Peach Boy #2 (P) is slightly less pink. Benefit Sugarbomb (P, $28.00) is softer. See comparison swatches.

Laguna is a medium-dark tan brown with warm, orange-yellow undertones and a golden shimmer-sheen finish. I reviewed this in full here. I find the quality of the Laguna in this palette to be the same as it was in the previous palette I tried (NARS Hearts New York); the quality of the individual pan is slightly higher. It lasts well for eight hours, had good color payoff, and a fairly soft texture. Urban Decay Toasted is darker, browner. MAC Lush Light Bronze is warmer. MAC Refined Golden is browner, darker. MAC Soft Sand is slightly warmer, lighter. Burberry Summer Glow is more yellow-toned. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

NARSissist Cheek

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Devotee

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Orgasm

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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