Thursday, March 8th, 2012

Guerlain Terracotta Sun in the City Illuminating Powder
Guerlain Terracotta Sun in the City Illuminating Powder

Guerlain Terracotta Sun in the City Illuminating Powder

Guerlain Terracotta Sun in the City Illuminating Powder ($70.00 for 0.52 oz.) is a metallic yellow gold with buildable color. It doesn’t take a lot of product to achieve an appropriate amount of highlighting color on the cheek, but it is very blendable so it can be sheered out or applied softly from the start.  When I wore this, it lasted for seven hours with noticeable (but not disastrous) fading by the eighth hour.  I wore it as a blusher, just because it’s easier to identify how well it wears when you cover a larger area, but I’d typically dust this on cheek bones and paired with a warm-toned blush (maybe a coral or natural brown).

If you have a yellow gold eyeshadow, you could likely achieve a similar look with that. Chanel Empreinte de Chanel is a little darker, almost orange-ish, as is Chanel Shimmering Tweed. While Guerlain often has incredibly subtle, finely-milled highlighters, this one is more metallic, more noticeable–it’s therefore easier to dupe (it’s usually that finish that is more difficult to dupe). It still feels soft to the touch, but there’s that metallic shimmer that keeps it from being buttery soft. The way it feels reminds me a bit of Estee Lauder’s Illuminating Gelee formula, though this is less dry.

Guerlain knows how to design a powder; the design looks like fields of golden wheat swaying in the breeze.  The design doesn’t fade away after one use either, which is nice, though eventually you will wear away a lot of the texture on the top, it should take several uses or more.  The compact also contains a brick o’ highlighter–weighing in at 0.52 oz.–and most blushes and highlighters come between 0.15 oz. and 0.25 oz.  It is heavily fragranced, as is typical for the brand, so if you’re sensitive to scents, you may want to check it out in person.  I had this open on the desk where I take photos, and I could smell it from a couple of feet away.

The Glossover

LE
product

Terracotta Sun in the City Illuminating Powder

B+
While Guerlain often has incredibly subtle, finely-milled highlighters, this one is more metallic, more noticeable--it's therefore easier to dupe (it's usually that finish that is more difficult to dupe). I know this is selling quickly partially because of the design, but from a use standpoint, I don't think it's a must-have.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Monday, February 20th, 2012

Bobbi Brown Wild Rose Shimmer Brick
Bobbi Brown Wild Rose Shimmer Brick

Bobbi Brown Wild Rose Shimmer Brick ($39.00 for 0.40 oz.) has five shimmery strips of pink-tinted shades that can be used as a blush or as an eyeshadow. It’s designed to highlight the skin with “pearlescent shimmer.” The individual strips include: a rosy light-medium pink with a frosted metallic sheen, pink-shimmered peach-orange with a frosted metallic sheen, warm-toned dirty pink with a frosted metallic sheen, warm-toned pink with orange undertones and a frosted metallic sheen (very similar to the one before it), and light rose pink with a frosted metallic sheen.

When everything is swirled together, it takes on a rosy champagne-bronze color. It looks a lot like MAC Blonde, which may have a slight orange tint in comparison. Bobbi Brown Rose Gold is warmer, bronzy; it doesn’t have the same pink element that this shade has.

Applied, it highlights and adds a touch of warm pink color to cheeks with lots of shimmer and sheen. Bobbi Brown’s Shimmer Bricks tend to be high shimmer, so if you prefer subtler, more refined highlighters, I would look elsewhere. If you love products like MAC Mineralize Skinfinishes, you’ll probably like the Shimmer Bricks. The high shimmer emphasizes pores slightly–it’s not off-putting enough in lieu of the glowy sheen it delivers, because it’s not noticeable from a normal viewing distance.

When I wore this shade to see how long it would wear for, it hung on well for seven hours and looked a little faded after eight hours. The powder itself has a soft texture that’s very shimmery and metallic-like, but it never feels gritty, despite the amount of shimmer in the product. This product also looks really lovely wet, which enables you to bring out the metallic sheen for a very glitzy look.

The Glossover

LE
product

Wild Rose

B+
If you love shimmer and sheen, you'll enjoy Bobbi Brown's Shimmerbricks--they're full of shimmer with a really soft, smooth application and texture. This one will also give light to light-medium skin tones a subtle pink flush.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Sunday, February 12th, 2012

Estee Lauder Topaz Chameleon Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelee
Estee Lauder Topaz Chameleon Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelee

Estee Lauder Topaz Chameleon Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelee

Estee Lauder Topaz Chameleon Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelee ($40.00 for 0.17 oz.) is described as “high polish for your skin.” It’s a liquid, powder, and gel formula all-in-one. Estee Lauder says it “smooths on as an all-over soft sheen” and “builds for luminous pearl highlighting.” I wouldn’t describe it as an all-over powder or really so much a highlighting product–maybe a highlighting bronzer. The product is very, very intense. The pigmentation is insane; one tap of the brush, and it’s more than enough color to add a bronzed look to my cheeks. To achieve mere highlighting, I found that a fan brush and a very, very light hand (think of just a tap) was the only way to get just a faint sheen. If you use a regular blush or highlighting brush, and you use your typical method, you’ll probably find there’s too much for just a highlighted sheen.

This is a product that would be really lovely on deeper, golden-toned skin. It’s a rich coppery bronze with red undertones and a molten gold shimmer and sheen. theBalm Betty Lou-Manizer is browner, less orange and red. Urban Decay Gilded is a little lighter, more orange and less red-toned, but compares to the softer swatch of Topaz Chameleon.  If you want to bring out the metallic sheen, you can use the powder with a wet or damp brush.

I feel like this product is too pigmented if its aim is to be an all-over highlight.  Even on darker skin tones, I can’t imagine using this all over.  It’s very metallic and frosty, so it does emphasize the texture of the skin slightly.  The brush that Estee Lauder includes applies this more heavily if you aren’t careful (light hand, tapping away excess).  As a bronzer, it should work on warmer skin tones.  There are strong copper and orange tones, so I’m not sure if this would work as well on cooler complexions.  Estee Lauder just doesn’t call this product out as a bronzer, when it just feels and looks so much like one.

It can be used as a highlighter, but the application is more difficult and takes some practice.  It looks very dirty on my skin tone as a bronzer, but with a fan brush, a light hand, and a buffing brush, it can yield a softer, more manageable golden sheen.  The texture is soft but has this dry feel; it’s a different texture compared to most powders, but it is similar to Estee Lauder’s recent formulas like this.  When I wore this as a bronzer, it lasted for seven hours before beginning to fade.  I wish it would blend out more easily, because it’s just too easy to over-apply, so a more blendable texture would make for a more forgiving application.

I had a tough time trying to figure out exactly what Estee Lauder was going for here and whether this product should have been sheerer or if the pigmentation was on point.  I decided that since Estee Lauder said it was buildable (and it is) and didn’t mention it being sheer, the product would receive full marks for pigmentation.  Because achieving the highlighting the brand describes is more difficult, this was reflected in the application score.

The Glossover

LE
product

Topaz Chameleon

B
As a bronzer, it should work on warmer skin tones. There are strong copper and orange tones, so I'm not sure if this would work as well on cooler complexions. Estee Lauder just doesn't call this product out as a bronzer, when it just feels and looks so much like one.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

3/5

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Friday, February 3rd, 2012

MAC Sunday Afternoon Pearlmatte Face Powder
MAC Sunday Afternoon Pearlmatte Face Powder

MAC Vera: Sunday Afternoon Pearlmatte Face Powder

MAC Sunday Afternoon Pearlmatte Face Powder ($28.00 for 0.42 oz.) is described as “clean bright pink, bright clean fuchsia, soft pale pink with white pearl.” The first shade is a cotton candy pink w ith blue undertones and a semi-matte finish. The middle shade is a dark pink with a subtle pearled sheen. The bottom shade is a pink-tinted white with a frosted shimmer-sheen. Together, they create a shimmery light-medium pink with subtle cool undertones. NARS New Order is cooler toned. MAC Blonde is similar in the pink tones, but not quite the same together. I feel like there are more dupes, but I couldn’t think of anything else.

This shade produces much more color on the cheeks compared to Flower Fantasy. It has the same shimmery finish, which may or may not be what you’re looking for. If you want a softer finish, use less of the bottom shade, which contributes most of the shimmer as well as lightens the overall color. I wore this shade to test out the wear, and it managed to hang on for around six and a half hours before it started to fade and look patchy.  The texture is soft and smooth without being powdery.

The Glossover

LE
product

Sunday Afternoon

B+
It's better than the first Pearlmatte Face Powder that came out, and it balances color with sheen to be both a blush and highlighter (though if you prefer a more distinctive highlight, then you may want to use a stippling brush and a separate blush).

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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Friday, February 3rd, 2012

MAC Flower Fantasy Pearlmatte Face Powder
MAC Flower Fantasy Pearlmatte Face Powder

MAC Vera: Flower Fantasy Pearlmatte Face Powder

MAC Flower Fantasy Pearlmatte Face Powder ($28.00 for 0.42 oz.) is described as “pale coral with slight gold pearl, slightly blue pale pink, soft pale salmon.” The largest shade is a dirty coral; it’s a little brown, little coral, with a subtle sheen.  The smaller color in the middle (so-to-speak) is a pale rosy pink with a pearly sheen. The final shade in the palette is a frosted peach champagne. Together, they create a warm peach-pink with a shimmer-sheen finish. If you want less shimmer in your finish, avoid the bottom portion of the palette. Chanel Pink Cloud is lighter and less pink. Chanel Blush Horizon de Chanel is less shimmery, pinker. MAC Semi-Precious Rose Quartz is more of a dirty pink. MAC Oh So Fair is lighter, less pink.

Though the individual shades don’t seem quite pigmented and almost a little stiff, when swirled together, there doesn’t seem to be any pigmentation or texture issues. When I tested the wear of this, it wore for six and a half hours before it started to look a little faded and patchy.  The texture is soft though not as finely-milled as some of the best powders. There is some emphasis of the quality and texture of skin, but it’s very slight.  

You can vary the shimmer in the finish and how light you want to go by using less of the bottom shade, which has a really frosted finish that adds lots of shimmer as well as lightens the color.  I did dig through the product to verify that the three distinct shades go all the way through.  The metallic silver that is between the shades is just an overspray.

The Glossover

LE
product

Flower Fantasy

B+
It's better than the first Pearlmatte Face Powder that came out, and it balances color with sheen to be both a blush and highlighter (though if you prefer a more distinctive highlight, then you may want to use a stippling brush and a separate blush).

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

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Sunday, January 8th, 2012

Chanel Brompton Road Poudre Tissee / Highlighting Powder and Blush
Chanel Brompton Road Poudre Tissee / Highlighting Powder and Blush

Chanel Brompton Road Poudre Tissee / Highlighting Powder and Blush

Chanel Brompton Road Poudre Tissee / Highlighting Powder and Blush ($80.00 for 0.50 oz.) is a limited edition powder from Chanel’s Knightsbridge collection. It’s supposed to “bring a radiant flush and iridescent shimmer to the face.” Like a lot of recent Chanel highlighters, this is one that seems well-suited for lighter complexions. It’s certainly not a blusher on light-medium or darker skin tones–on me, it gives my cheeks a bit of a washed out appearance when I used it as a blush.

The powder has a similar look as Chanel Beiges Ombres Tissees, though the underlying colors are different and set-up in another design. The finish seems subtler, though, as I found Beiges Ombres Tissees to be almost too frosted.  The wear is similar; around seven to eight hours before fading, which is good.

It has a silver glitter overlay, which is actually really, really annoying. I would highly recommend taking a big fluffy brush and really decimating that top layer and brushing it off. The glitter looks atrocious on the skin, even in tiny bits. Underneath, there are two colors: a pink-coral and pale ivory. Both of these have a subtle shimmer-sheen, while the pink-coral has a subtler finish–not quite matte but nearly. It’s not practical to use the colors individually (you would need to use an eyeshadow brush), so the swirled look is a pale petal pink with yellow undertones and a shimmer-sheen.

It is much, much lighter compared to Chanel Blush Horizon de Chanel, though the finish (amount of shimmer/sheen) is the same. I think Blush Horizon de Chanel is more versatile and flattering. Chanel Pink Cloud is yellower. Benefit Hervana is sheerer and yellower. Illamasqua Katie is blue-based but just as light.

This powder is one of the pricest powders I’ve purchased in the past couple of years. Even for Chanel, there was some sticker shock. The compact that’s most similar to this was Beiges Ombres Tissees–and it was $75 in August–four months later, add another $5.  The powder is hefty at 0.5 oz., which is nice, but this is certainly not a wallet-friendly blush/highlighter.

The Glossover

LE
product

Brompton Road Poudre Tissee Highlighting Powder

B+
The color and effect, while pretty, is most suitable for fairer complexions. For light-medium to dark skin tones, I'd recommend looking elsewhere.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

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