Saturday, December 22nd, 2012

Chanel Frivole Joues Contraste / Blush
Chanel Frivole Joues Contraste / Blush

Chanel Frivole Joues Contraste / Blush ($43.00 for 0.21 oz.) is described as a “luminous apricot.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark orange with just a hint of pink to give it an “apricot” coloring. The finish is mostly matte, but there is a touch of barely-there sheen that translates as “natural” when applied–you can see the tiny golden sheen in the blended out swatch. Buxom Euphoria is lighter and more orange. MAC Modern Mandarin is redder, less orange, more shimmery. NARS Gilda is redder. Guerlain Peach Boy is redder, less orange. MAC Optimistic Orange is a touch more orange (and it is a cream blush). Make Up For Ever is a touch darker and more red-toned.

It is as intense as you’d like it to be; it can be as rich and bright as it looks in the pan, or it can be blended and applied more sheerly for a softer color. Darker complexions should have no trouble getting enough color to show up on them, while paler complexions can rest easy knowing that it has an exquisite, finely-milled texture that makes blending a cinch. The powder is so, so soft but not powdery. It looks luminous and subtly glowy on the skin without emphasizing pores. Frivole wore for seven hours well, and after eight, there was very slight fading along the edges.

The Glossover

P
product

Frivole

A

Beautiful, soft texture that looks natural and luminous on the skin, combined with excellent color payoff makes for a blush that will work across skin tones. It is very warm-toned, so those who tend to find orange blush less flattering may want to pass.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Tuesday, December 4th, 2012

Too Faced Spun Sugar Glamour to Go Palette
Too Faced Spun Sugar Glamour to Go Palette

Spin, Spin Sugar

Too Faced Spun Sugar Glamour to Go Palette ($22.00 for 0.418 oz.) contains eight eyeshadows (0.03 oz. each), one highlighter (.076 oz.), one bronzer (0.076 oz.), and one lipgloss (0.026 oz.). It’s a holiday palette designed to include a range of “holiday metallics.”

#1 is a shimmering champagne gold with a bright, metallic finish. It has a similar effect to a glittery shade without the mess. The color payoff was good, and it applied smoothly. Tarte Sunshine State is yellower. MAC Retrospeck is warmer, yellower. Chanel Apparence is also warmer, darker. bareMinerals Chart Topper is darker.

#2 is a softened orange with gold shimmer. It had good pigmentation and applied smoothly. bareMinerals Golden Iris is darker. Tarte Golden Gate Bridge is a touch darker. Tarte Canary Diamond is browner. Guerlain Turandot is slightly more orange. Milani Gold Dust is very similar.

#3 is a sparkling pink-tinted white. It had so-so color payoff, but I didn’t have any fall out problems with it. MAC She’s Got Class is less pink-tinged but similar in finish. Tarte Iceland Air is similar in color but less sparkly. MAC Crystal Avalanche is similar, less metallic. Tom Ford Cobalt Rush is a bit darker.

#4 is a gray-ish mauve with a bright, metallic sheen. It had decent pigmentation and applied smoothly. Tarte Next Level Lilac is more matte, so it is also darker in appearance. MAC Cloudy Afternoon is darker. Urban Decay Bust is several shades darker.

#5 is a shimmering, pale yellow. It had good color payoff and went on smoothly without being powdery. shu uemura Smoky Velvet is more sparkling, a little darker. Buxom Poodle is more metallic and in a cream form. Bobbi Brown Gold is very similar.

#6 is a medium-dark chocolate brown with subtle warm undertones and a bronze shimmer. It had great pigmentation and felt smooth and soft to the touch.Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning is a touch darker, less shimmery. MAC Carbonized has less shimmer, slightly darker. NARS Galapagos is a bit less bronze.

#7 is a light-medium gray with a silver sheen. It had so-so color payoff, and it was a touch dry to work with. Giorgio Armani #12 is darker, but it is similar when sheered out.

#8 is a soft black with fine silver shimmer. The pigmentation was weak in this shade, and it looked dry, slightly chalky, when applied. shu uemura Smoky Velvet is darker. Bobbi Brown Onyx is similar. MAC Black Tied is also similar.

The Highlighter is a white gold with a shimmer-sheen finish. Tarte Angelic is a smidgen yellower but not by much. Illamasqua Aurora is a touch lighter and in a cream form. NARS Albatross has a similar sheen, but it has a whiter base.

The Lipgloss included in the palette is pretty much clear and there’s almost no visible shimmer when applied. It made me do a double-take, because at least in the pan, you could see shimmer. Being next to two face powders is unfortunate, as it’s easy to kick up excess powder with larger blush/bronzer brushes (with eyeshadow brushes, it’s just as possible, but I think you have more control). So, you can use any clear gloss as a substitute, really!

The Bronzer is a medium-dark tan with strong orange-brown undertones and a sprinkling of gold sparkle. The texture was a little powdery but dry–I had a tough time getting this shade to deposit color, let alone blending it out. Tarte Park Ave. Princess is similar but has more golden shimmer/sheen. Urban Decay Toasted is similar but has no shimmer/sparkle.

OVERALL, this palette is best purchased if you like the eyeshadows.  The lipgloss and bronzer are disappointing, while the highlighter is better it was a touch dry in texture.  Too Faced’s Candlelight on its own is much better.  The eyeshadows are fairly pigmented, though the last two shades were on the weaker side, and the really sparkly white was a little sheer, too.  None were flops, though, and the other five shades were rather nice to work with.  If you cut the palette in half, you’ll see two very distinct quads of colors–one set is warm, the other is cooler-toned.  It’s like, not love.

When I tested out the eyeshadows, they lasted eight hours with very minor fading when used without a primer; with a primer, they lasted a full eight hours.  I didn’t have any fall out, despite using the sparkly shades, which was a pleasant surprise.  The highlighter wore for seven hours, while the bronzer was faded after six hours.  The price point is nice, though, because it’s not to pricey and makes for an easy gift to give without breaking the bank, but it still feels like a nice gift to give (more to it than just a lipstick!).  I just wish the whole palette performed better.

The Glossover

coming-soon

Too Faced Spun Sugar Glamour to Go Palette Review, Photos, Swatches

B
This palette is best purchased if you like the eyeshadows. The lipgloss and bronzer are disappointing, while the highlighter is better it was a touch dry in texture.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, December 3rd, 2012

shu uemura Smoky Velvet Eye & Cheek Palette
shu uemura Smoky Velvet Eye & Cheek Palette

Karl for Shu – The Smoky Velvet Palette

shu uemura Smoky Velvet Eye & Cheek Palette ($65.00 for 0.245 oz.) consists of two silky smooth eyeshadows, three pressed eyeshadows, and one glow-on blush.

1 is described as a “glitter black” and comes in the “silky smooth eyeshadow formula.” It’s a soft black with very small silver glitter particles. It had a creamy but a very thin consistency–it was soft and just barely creamy, enough that it felt more like a really thin, cream eyeshadow than a powder one. It had good color payoff despite the thin consistency. MAC Tall, Dark, & Handsome is a bit softer, less glittery. Buxom Black Lab is similar but has multi-colored sparkle.

2 is described as a “deep khaki” and comes in the “silky smooth eyeshadow formula.” It’s an olive green with a soft, olive shimmer. This shade was creamier than #1, but it had a similar lightweight and thin feel. L’Oreal Golden Emerald is darker, greener. Lancome Designer is darker. MAC Sumptuous Olive is warmer, browner.

3 is described as an “elegant light silver” and is part of the “pressed eyeshadow formula.” It’s a sparkling silver-tinged white with a glittery, sparkly content that gives it a very sheer appearance. Cinderella Midnight Hour is less metallic. MAC She’s Got Class is similar both in color and texture. MAC Forgery is also quite similar.

4 is described as an “mint green” and is part of the “pressed eyeshadow formula.” It’s a pale green with soft yellow undertones and a smattering of gold micro-shimmer. It had good color payoff and a soft, finely-milled texture. Cinderella Cinderelly is darker. Too Faced Fantasy Island is yellower. bareMinerals Wicked is also yellower. Tarina Tarantino Wonderful is very similar.

5 is described as an “glitter beige” and is part of the “pressed eyeshadow formula.” It’s a pale, yellow gold with a metallic sheen. The color payoff was so-so. Buxom Poodle is less yellow. Giorgio Armani #18 is similar, less metallic. Bobbi Brown Gold is yellower. MAC Treasure Hunt is similar but has more of a sheen.

6 is described as an “dusty rose” and is part of the “glow-on blush formula.” It’s a brightened, dark pink with gold shimmer. It packs plenty of pigment, so it can be used on all skin tones. The texture is incredibly finely-milled, so it is extremely blendable on the skin, so even pale complexions will be able to adjust the intensity to their liking. MAC Supernova is a bit redder. Tom Ford Wicked is pinker, more blue-based. Worth noting is it’s a pain to apply as a blush, since the pan is the size of an eyeshadow.

The palette is remarkable for its texture; the two cream eyeshadows had a beautiful, velvety-creamy consistency that felt like butter and silk came together, while the blush was finely-milled and easy to blend, despite its rich color.  The really sparkly white eyeshadow, though, while soft, did not apply as smoothly. I found it was best applied as a layering shade over another eyeshadow.  I experienced some fall out when applied alone, and significantly less (but still a little) fall out when patted over one of the cream eyeshadows. Shu can do incredible glitter eyeshadows sometimes, but the white in this palette wasn’t quite it. The gold shade was way, way less sparkly (and better bound together), so I didn’t have problems with that shade.  The cream eyeshadows wore well for six hours, but after eight full hours, they was some faint creasing.  The blush lasted eight hours without fading.

The Glossover

coming-soon

shu uemura Smoky Velvet Eye & Cheek Palette Review, Photos, Swatches

B-
The fall out from the two glittery shades along with the faint (but still there) creasing from the two creamier shades really hurt this palette overall. I'm still amazed by the textures of the products, but I wish the wear was better.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2012

NARS Debbie Harry Eye & Cheek Palette
NARS Debbie Harry Eye & Cheek Palette

Another Disappointment from the NARS & Andy Warhol Collection

NARS Debbie Harry Eye & Cheek Palette ($65.00 for 0.42 oz.) consists of one blush, one highlighter, and four eyeshadows, tucked into a matte black palette with a full-size mirror on the interior. Each shade sits in its own pan and well.

Shimmering Pink Champagne is a soft, rosy plum with silver sparkle. The sparkle is very, very loose and doesn’t bind at all to the underlying color, so it either doesn’t translate to the cheek or disappears throughout the day. It had a very dry, stiff texture, though the color payoff was so-so. It wore for seven hours when I tested it. NARS Oasis is a bit more muted, less pink. theBalm Cabana Boy has a soft sheen. MAC Plum Foolery is less pink, more frosted.

Brilliant Cream is a shimmery, pale beige. It had good color payoff, and it wasn’t dry–a little powdery–but not dry, at least. It was also blendable on, and it lasted for six and a half hours. NARS Albatross has a golden sheen. theBalm Promiscuous Pearl is more beige. MAC Snowglobe is similar.

Twinkling Purple is an eggplant purple with a matte finish. It was dry, powdery, and had dismal color payoff. Tarte Napa Grapes is more intense. Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse has a satiny sheen. BareMinerals Nightcap is very similar (more pigmented). MAC Fig. 1 is purpler (also more pigmented).

Sparkling Turquoise is an aqua-green with a satiny sheen. It had so-so color payoff, but this one was such a pain in the behind to use. It was very soft, powdery, and prone to pulling a disappearing act if you made any attempt to blend it. Sugarpill Mochi is very similar in color.

White Shimmer is a shimmery white with silver sparkle (that doesn’t bind with the base color, so it gets lost). There are so many shimmery white eyeshadows on the market, so there is no shortage of dupes. MAC She’s Got Class, Cinderella Ball Gown, MAC How to Marry, and MAC Crystal Avalanche are all very similar–just to name a few.

Starry Black is a matte black (with silver sparkle, but it never shows up and doesn’t even make it onto the swatch!). This shade had the best payoff of the four eyeshadows! It was stiff and a bit dry, but it wasn’t powdery. Like the white eyeshadow, matte black eyeshadows are numerous (it’s a classic, basic shade, and everyone should have at least one!). When you put out core/basic shades, you have to do them well, because there are too many options available to settle for less.

Technically, all four eyeshadows had silver sparkles in them, but they come loose as soon as the brush hits the pan–they just flake away or get caught in the bristles of your brush. It was a disappointing palette and not worth the $65 I spent on it. I had hoped that this palette would be better than the other Warhol palettes, because each product was in a separate well, but it was not meant to be. It’s hard for me to comprehend how the textures and payoff throughout the collection were so far off the norm for NARS.

Dry and powdery is one of the more frustrating textures to work, because you don’t even get the blendability and payoff that really soft eyeshadows (which can be powdery) have to their advantage.  The highlighter was the best product in the palette, but there was a general theme: poor color payoff, dry/stiff/powdery textures, and fading throughout the day.  Despite layering the eyeshadows over NARS’ own eyeshadow primer, these were looking very faded after eight hours (and without a primer, they had disappeared after six and a half).

P.S. — There is no step-by-step for this palette, because I tested and took photos prior to starting those!

The Glossover

palette

Debbie Harry

F
The highlighter was the best product in the palette, but there was a general theme: poor color payoff, dry/stiff/powdery textures, and fading throughout the day.

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Thursday, November 29th, 2012

Tarte Carried Away Collection
Tarte Carried Away Collection

Get Carried Away with This Kit

Tarte Carried Away Collection ($54.00) is a Sephora-exclusive set that contains one blush (0.05 oz.), one finishing powder (0.07 oz.), one mascara (0.16 oz.), one face brush, eight lipglosses (0.059), and twenty-four eyeshadows (0.06 oz.). It is all housed in a soft case. The eyeshadow palette is cleverly tucked away inside of the case, behind the mirror. It’s currently out of stock online, though it can be found in-stores.

Face Products

  • Adventurous (Amazonian Clay Blush) is a warm-toned, muted, reddish-brown with a rosy iridescent sheen. It had good color payoff, and it was soft and smooth applied. This shade wore for seven hours on me. NARS G-Spot is redder. MAC Stratus is more intense and a bit redder. Tom Ford Savage is a touch darker. MAC Buddy Up is similar.
  • Finishing Powder is very finely-milled and soft. I did not test the wear of this item.
  • Face Brush is fairly soft, dense, and blended out the Adventurous blush well.
  • Lights, Camera, Lashes! (Mascara) didn’t flake or smudge on me when I’ve worn it in the recent past.

Lipglosses

The eight glosses included in the set were sheer to semi-sheer, thin, and wore for an average of two hours. Several of the shades looked very alike when applied.

  • Heath is a sheer orange-red with gold shimmer. Chantecaille Glaze is similar–a bit brighter.
  • Casey is a sheer, neutral-warm light pink. It just looks clear on me–any sheer, shimmer-free gloss with a pink-tinted base will work in its place.
  • Mel is a sheer, cool-toned pink with no shimmer. MAC Infinitely Likeable is creamier, more opaque. MAC Pagoda is a touch bluer-based, lighter.
  • Anne is a sheer raspberry pink with no shimmer. Bobbi Brown Cosmic Pink is comparable on.
  • Jena is a sheer red-pink with no shimmer. This gives lips a slight reddish tint. MAC Fabulous Fun is a touch brighter and has shimmer.
  • Mer is a light-medium pink with yellow undertones and gold sparkle. Tarte Darling is similar; smaller shimmer. MAC Floating Lotus is pinker.
  • Ali is a darkened fuchsia-pink with light pink shimmer. MAC Dress Kimono is redder.
  • Nuria is a brightened pinky-red with no shimmer. MAC Dress Kimono is closer in color to this shade but has sparkle. Le Metier de Beaute Hibiskiss is similar, has slight shimmer. Burberry Hibiscus is darker.

Eyeshadows

Snowfall in Paris is a shimmering white with a subtle warm undertone. It has a frosted finish and so-so color payoff–there’s noticeable sheerness. Tarte Shooting Star is less shimmery. MAC How to Marry is whiter. Dior Night Golds is very similar. Too Faced Vanilla is more matte.

Golden Gate Bridge is a soft, darkened gold with a frosted, metallic finish and orange-brown tones. It had good pigmentation and was soft and smooth. Dior Night Golds is a bit darker. Tarte Canary Diamond is less frosted, more metallic. L’Oreal Eternal Sunshine is yellower.

Volcanic Ash is a dark, smoldering brown with a cool undertone and dark champagne shimmer. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was a little dry. bareMinerals VIP is incredibly similar. Too Faced Licorice is more matte. Cinderella Cinders is also similar.

Pyramid Gold is a light-medium bronze with a champagne metallic sheen. It had nice color payoff with a soft, smooth texture. MAC Silk Stocking is very similar. Chanel Harmonie du Soir is darker. Urban Decay Echo Beach is less warm-toned. Dior Fairy Golds is sparkly.

Pearl River is a pale pink-tinged white with a frosted, metallic finish. It is slightly sheer but goes on smoothly. Tarte Macaroon is more frosted in finish. MAC Winterscape is a bit cooler-toned.

Seychelles Sand is a medium taupe with a strong gray tone. It has a matte finish, and it was actually a little less pigmented than anticipated though not powdery. Tarte Sailboat is lighter. Bobbi Brown Slate is darker. Bobbi Brown China is warmer.

Touchdown in Londontown is a vibrant violet purple with cool undertones and a fuchsia-pink edge. It has a pearly sheen. The color payoff was good, but it was a little powdery. Make Up For Ever #26 is similar but a cream product. Clarins Enchanted is similar. Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm is less pink. Inglot #441 is purpler.

Martha’s Vineyard is a deep, blackened purple with red undertones and a matte finish. This shade was a bit dry, and so it ended up sheer, too. MAC Indian Ink is purpler. MAC Shadowy Lady is similar. Tarte Pumped About Purple is shimmery.

Pebble Beach is a warm, peachy beige with a frosted, metallic finish. It had good color payoff and was smooth to the touch. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning is very similar. Cinderella Midnight Hour is a smidgen darker.

Boston Brick is a darkened taupe with a hint of warmth and a matte finish. It had good color payoff and wasn’t powdery. Giorgio Armani Moonlight Beige is lighter. Estee Lauder Tempting Mocha is grayer.

Spanish Sangria is a gold-shimmered plum with soft pink-red tones. It had so-so color payoff–a bit sheer. Tarte Ice Wine is similar but more muted.

Napa Grapes is a darkened eggplant purple with a matte finish. It had decent color payoff but was powdery. OCC Overlook is shimmery. MAC Fig. 1 is comparable. bareMinerals Nightcap is also comparable. Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse is a touch lighter.

Georgia Peach is a soft peach beige with a matte finish. It had good color payoff, and it wasn’t powdery. MAC Sahara Dust is pearly. Urban Decay Skimp is lighter. Inglot #390 is grayer.

Tuscan Sun is a coppered orange with a metallic sheen. It had excellent pigmentation and was incredibly smooth and easy to work with. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning is a touch darker. Urban Decay Penny Lane is softer. Tarte Cabana is less metallic.

Acai Jungle is a medium-dark red-toned bronze brown with a softened metallic sheen. It had great color payoff and was soft and smooth to use. MAC Ever Elegant is more orange. Cinderella Chateau is slightly subdued in comparison.

Coral Reef is a pink-ish orange with gold shimmer-sheen. It’s one of the more interesting shades in the set–there’s something about it that says “tamed fire” to me. It had good color payoff and was soft but not powdery. MAC Hot Paprika was the closest I could think of, but it is a bit redder.

Iceland Air is a cool-toned white with a frosted, metallic finish. The payoff is so-so with some sheerness. MAC Winterscape is similar, perhaps not as stark. MAC She’s Got Class is similar in color but more frosted. Cinderella Ball Gown is comparable in color.

Mystic Seaport is a darkened lavender with a frosted, metallic finish. It was a bit sheer. MAC Digit is lighter. Too Faced Cut the Cake is more matte.

Concrete Jungle is a medium-dark gray with a satiny sheen. It had a drier texture and sheerer color payoff. Urban Decay Desperatoin is a bit darker. bareMinerals Chateau is darker and cooler-toned.

Hampton Waves is a bluish-teal with a mostly matte finish. This shade had good color payoff but was very powdery, so it was easy to blend away into something sheer. Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl is shimmery. bareMinerals Water has a slight sheen.

Sunshine State is a pale, sparkling gold. It has a chunkier, more glitter-like texture, which also resulted in sheer color payoff. Wet ‘n’ Wild Sparkle ‘Til Morning is a touch darker and less sparkly. Tarte Bellini is darker and less shimmery/sparkly. Cinderella Charming is less sparkly. Dior Couture Gold is a touch lighter.

Hawaiian Palm is a muted, light-medium green with a soft golden sheen. It had so-so color payoff, but it applied smoothly. bareMinerals Wicked is lighter. Wet ‘n Wild Comfort Zone is similar. MAC Juxt is yellower.

Olive Grove is a olive brown with golden shimmer-sheen. It had good pigmentation but was a touch powdery. Tarte Match Point is lighter, more golden. Inglot #433 is greener.

Sin City is a dark, sooty gray with brown undertones and a little bronze sparkle. This was the worst performing shade in the palette–super sheer and powdery. It looks a lot darker swatched than it did in the pan. Tarte Stiletto is lighter.

Overall, it’s a set that’s certainly worth its price tag, even despite some imperfections. I think if you already own a few Tarte eyeshadow palettes, you’re going to run into enough overlap for it to be frustrating. (The same is true for several brands that launch mega-sized palettes and sets like this one.) I like the inclusion of the face products, because it helps make the whole kit a great starter selection to give to someone. I think the lipglosses are a little drying and similar to each other, so they’re not my favorite. The formula was thin and didn’t wear as long as the average gloss. The eyeshadows come in “quads” in a way, which instantly creates several distinct looks to try. Some of the eyeshadows are great, some are good, and a few are so-so.

The Glossover

coming-soon

Tarte Carried Away Collection Review, Photos, Swatches

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Thursday, November 29th, 2012

Clarins Odyssey Face Palette
Clarins Odyssey Face Palette

More Lightweight Pressed Powder Than Goddess Glow

Clarins Odyssey Face Palette ($55.00 for 0.30 oz.) is described as a “shimmering, lightweight pressed powder [that] brings a goddess glow to face, neck, and decolette.” Clarins says it is “the must-have holiday accessory for all skin tones.” It’s a softened peach with strong orange undertones (no pink) and a mostly matte finish. There’s a sparkling gold overlay that brushes away in one use. NARS Sex Appeal is pinker.

What is most remarkable about this product is how utterly finely-milled the powder is. It feels like a mixture of silk, butter, and cream. It’s incredibly soft, indeed lightweight, and easy to blend. The powder sits well on skin and never looks powdery. I didn’t detect any luminosity or shimmer when applied, because the only “shimmer” I saw at all was the overspray. Beneath the overspray is really a rather matte powder, and it can help with keeping oiliness at bay if you are prone to it. When I wore it on my cheeks, it lasted for eight hours. I used it later on my t-zone, and it did help minimize some of the oiliness I see after eight hours.

Those with very pale complexions might use this as a blusher or a bronzer, while medium skin tones can easily use this as a finishing or setting powder. I’m not certain how this well this will work on darker complexions, because while it doesn’t seem to have a white base, it is quite pale, so there’s potential for it to turn ashy–Clarins did, very specifically, say it’s for all skin tones. With a very fluffy brush, lighter complexions could also use this as a finishing powder that will add some natural warmth and golden tones to the skin.  I think with a touch more luminosity, this product would have been truly exceptional.

The Glossover

coming-soon

Clarins Odyssey Face Palette Review, Photos, Swatches

A
I think with a touch more luminosity, this product would have been truly exceptional. For some, this will work well to do light bronzing without turning orange or to help set a finished makeup look.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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