Tuesday, September 11th, 2007

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | MAC COSMETICS BACKSTAGE

LUCA LUCA
Tom Pecheux was on a seventies supermodel tip  but it wasn’t Lauren Hutton. “I have in mind the young Jerry Hall,” he described. When she was starting out, she had a babyface but the sophistication of a woman. That manifested in the idea of playing with colour, just as Pecheux did he does bright Parrot blue shadow on the eyelids, then covered the creases with a shimmery dark grey to give what he called true sophistication. NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | BACKSTAGE WITH MACThere was an obvious lack of cheek colour, and the mouths were dabbed with N3 lipstick a putty-ish pink nude. The effect? A grown up in the eyes and a tender young girl in the mouth.

Face – MAC Face and Body Foundation was applied all over the face. Blot Loose Powder was then dusted over skin with Brush # 136.

Eyes – Sea Me, a blue-green M.A.C Shadestick was applied all over the lid and under the bottom lash line. Knight Divine Eye Shadow was then applied densely in the crease and faded out toward the brow for a subtly colorful eye. MAC Pro Lash in black was used for both top and bottom lashes.

Lips – For a neutral mouth, Hug Me Lipstick was patted gently onto the lips.

PHILOSOPHY DI FERRETTI
The Philosophy show was a study in dark minimalism at least in the faces. While the clothes were perky stripes and checks, the face by Charlotte Tilbury was bare (except for concealer) but for soft and charcoal grey crescents painted under the eye. So instead of the south of France lushness we’ve been seeing all week, it was a dose of Italian modernity.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | BACKSTAGE WITH MACNANETTE LEOPORE
To complete Nanette Lepore’s inspiration of Picasso’ Mistresses, Polly Osmond channeled, well  the look of a Picasso. So of course she did a heavy brow, clumpy spiky lashes achieved with rows of MAC lashes on the top and individuals on the bottom. A peachy cheek was followed by a juicy orange lip of Morange lipstick with lip conditioner added. It was absolutely Andalusian. Think Guernica hanging in the Prado.

Face – The face was primed with Face and Body Foundation to even out the skin. Select Moisture Cover was applied under the eyes and evenly over skin. Pleasureful and Lady Blushcremes were applied gently the cheeks.
Eyes – When Daryl Kerrigan says her collection is about body-conscious silhouettes, she’s not referring to bustier tops and form-fitting frocks. It’s about how everything feels on your body,  she explained. In other words, her clothes are easy with a capital E: T-shirt dresses, drawstring vests, relaxed shorts and trousers, all to typical louche effect. Despite the sporty undercurrent pulsing throughout, Kerrigan managed to work in plenty of that rocker reference, from studs embellishing necklines, hems and sleeves to belt-like straps that crisscrossed low on the hips. When Daryl Kerrigan says her collection is about body-conscious silhouettes, she’s not referring to bustier tops and form-fitting frocks. It’s about how everything feel…

Lips – MAC Morange Lipstick was mixed with Orange Dare Lipstick and applied with a #228 brush. Gloss Texture was layered on top for a soft, juicy look.

CAROLINA HERRERA
The Carolina woman is always very chic, but Diane Kendal made her eve a tad chicer, with a sophisticated minimalist face. The brows were filled in naturally, the eyes were glossed and shiny. But it was the mouth that was the standout. To go with Carolina’s fruity palette, the lips were dabbed with orange lipstick, then double dabbed with red in the centers of their mouths. Then a light wash of fuchsia was applied all over in a filmy layer the effect was a tangerine berry colour that was more like a Sex and the City cocktail colour, or the hue of a faded sunset, than a lipstick shade.

Face - Moisture Cover Concealer was applied to face with #242 Brush and set with Loose Blot Powder to create a velvety texture. MAC Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk was sprinkled onto the bridge of the nose and cheek bones for a highlight.

Eyes - MAC Retrospeck Eye Shadow was applied to the entire lid. Boot Liquid Eye Liner was lightly wedged in between lashes for a thick lash line and Plush Lash Mascara in Black was used to coat top lashes. MAC Retrospeck Eye Shadow was applied to the entire lid.

Lips - Orange Lip Mix was feathered onto lip with a Concealer Brush. MAC Pro Lipstick in Full Fuchsia and Mattene Lipstick in Classic Dame were then mixed and layered onto the center of the lip for an intense, burst of color. For a touch of shine, Clear Lip Glass was patted onto the lips.

Monday, September 10th, 2007

MAC Cosmetics artists describe the looks they created for specific designers from days 4, 5, and 6 of New York Fashion Week 2007 (Spring/Summer 2008). For specific look break downs and more photos, check out this post from yesterday: New York Fashion Week | MAC Cosmetics Look Breakdowns

DAY 4

CHAIKEN
The Chaiken woman has come into some cash. “She’s a jet setting expensive woman who gets off the red eye looking great,” said makeup artist Polly Osmond.  “But that’s because she’s been in first class! Call the look “beachy done” – and we’re seeing it all over the NY spring runways; cheeks highlighted and accented on the brow bone. Beigey lips (the famous Spice lip pencil filled in with Subculture lip pencil and 2N lipglass) with a tint of pink and white eye pencil inside the eyes. Remember the smoky eye? This season, it’s on hiatus. Wide eyed is where it’s at.

J. MENDEL
How many times do we have to hear the name “Lauren Hutton” before we smell a trend? For J. Mendel, Charlotte Tilbury evoked that seventies glamazon – and a Jerry Hall feeling – in the makeup. Last spring’s words like “fresh” and “pretty” have been replaced by “diva” and “expensive and glamorous.” On top of the glowing skin and the ubiquitous 4N lipstick (paled down by concealer), Tilbury bronzed out the models’ eyes with MAC Paint Pots, placing a copper shade right over the eyeball. You could almost hear Roxy Music playing in the background. “More than this…”

BABY PHAT
Okay, so perhaps the predicted death of colour for the Spring ’08 makeup palette was just tiny bit premature. But then Baby Phat always breaks all the rules. For Kimora Lee Simmons’ collection, makeup artist Lisa Butler used fuchsia like Giorgio Armani uses greige. She blended strong fuchsia blush for both the cheeks and eyes, but applied them in a light dust of powder. But when it came to the lips, she didn’t hold back – blending three different red fuchsias together to get the perfect dark pink pout.

PORTS 1961
Designer Tia Cibani’s spring influence was African safari so makeup artist Greg Wencel kept the faces slightly moist (“from humidity”) and put emphasis on tanned cheeks and matte terra cotta mouths.  “Think African clay paintings,” he explained. The eyes were opened up by a trend we’re starting to see everywhere for spring: a white line painted close to the lash line. So forget that fifties cat eye – and stat thinking; white eyeliner!

Keep reading to see what trends were created on Day 5 and Day 6 at spectacular Fashion Week!

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Sunday, September 9th, 2007

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | MAC COSMETICSDKNY
Face — The face was prepped with Studio Moisture Cream. Select Cover-up Concealer was applied all over face with a focus underneath the eyes, around the nose and on the chin for a flawless finish. Using a MAC #187 Brush, Posey and Laid Back Creme Blushes were applied with a round movement on apples of cheeks for a healthy, beautiful, young flush.
Eyes — MAC Kohl Eye Pencil in Fascinating was applied to the water line and rim of the lower lash line to open up the eyes. MAC Pro Eye Pencil in Light Green was then applied to upper lash line and rubbed out all over lid for a sheer look. Plush Lash Mascara in Brown was coated on the base of the lashes.
Lips — Clear Lipglass was lightly applied for a see-through, conditioned lip.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | MAC COSMETICSBABY PHAT
Face — MAC Studio Stick Foundation was brushed on skin for coverage and dusted with Mineralized Skin Finish Natural for a sheer complexion. MAC Pro Blush in Rhubarb was applied softly to apples of cheeks and layered with Sheertone Shimmer in Sunbasque to highlight.
Eyes — A blend of MAC Creme de Violet and Sushi Flower Eye Shadows were applied to lid and layered with Light Flush Blush and Skin Finish in Warmed all over eye. Kitschmas Pigment was dusted onto the center of lid and Kitschmas Pigment and Copper Pigment was added directly under brow line as highlighter. MAC Smolder Eye Liner was delicately applied to lower lash line and followed with layers of Fiber Rich mascara.
Lips — MAC lipsticks in Pink Nouveau and Up the Amp were applied with a lip brush. Clear Lipglass was layered on top for a plastic, shiny, glamorous lip.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | MAC COSMETICSMALANDRINO
Face — MAC Studio Moisture Fix was applied, followed by Face and Body Foundation for a simple, sheer look. Loose Blot Powder was dusted over t-zone. Cheek bones were blotted with Sheertone Shimmer in Springsheen and highlighted with MAC Shadow in All That Glitters.
Eyes — MAC Eye Shadows in Digit and Shale were blended and applied on lid to create crease. Print Eye Shadow was added around edge of eye. Fascinating Eye Pencil was applied to top and bottom lash lines to brighten the eyes.
Lips — For a sheer-stained look, MAC lipstick in So Chaud was applied with lip brush.

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Friday, September 7th, 2007

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK | BACKSTAGE WITH MAC

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 2007L.A.M.B.
Face

MAC Face and Body Foundation, a backstage favorite, was applied evenly to skin for a clean, natural finish.

Eyes
In order to create a soft, smoky eye, two graphite shades of MAC Technakohl Eye Liners were blended on upper and lower lash lines. The lighter shade, Gray Print created the intensity and shape, and the darker shade, Steel Point was added sparingly for a deeper definition. To finish off the look, MAC Gloss Texture was applied to the eyelids for the perfect sheen.

Lips
Lips were defined with MAC Lip Pencil in Redd and then blended with Lip Mix in Orange for the perfect pop of coral.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 2007Jason Wu
Face
MAC Face and Body Foundation, a backstage favorite, was applied evenly to skin for a clean, natural finish.

Eyes
In order to create a soft, smoky eye, two graphite shades of MAC Technakohl Eye Liners were blended on upper and lower lash lines. The lighter shade, Gray Print created the intensity and shape, and the darker shade, Steel Point was added sparingly for a deeper definition. To finish off the look, MAC Gloss Texture was applied to the eyelids for the perfect sheen.

Lips
Lips were defined with MAC Lip Pencil in Redd and then blended with Lip Mix in Orange for the perfect pop of coral.

More breakdowns from the runway shows…

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Thursday, September 6th, 2007

Day 2 of Fashion Week Spring 2008/Summer 2008 was yesterday, and here is some information from our favorite MAC folks all about the looks they did for various designers! Our very lovely Louise Zizzo mentioned how she worked on the L.A.M.B. look and that it was very mod, very 60s, and that I would love it (and she’s so right!).

Y & Kei
Most seasons, clothing trends work with the makeup trends, each coordinating and flattering the other. Not so Spring ’08; Y& Kei did their modern hippie dresses, but makeup artist Polly Osmond worked against it. Her faces here were shiny on the cheek and brow bones, with taupe shiny gloss on eyes, and no mascara or discernible brow enhancement. The lips had a slightly bitten look courtesy of MAC’s Cafe Matte Lipstick. “We’ve seen so much brow, lash and lip for fall,” Osmond declared, “now it’s time for a return to iridescence. And beiges and browns are classics, not trendy.” Long live no-makeup makeup!

Jason Wu
The nudie movement definitely hit Jason Wu’s spring face – but only the top half. Romy Soleimani did no brows, an iridescent cheek, with just a little grey around the eyes and a little bit of mascara. But it was all about a Big Mouth – a very big mouth. The lips were absolutely matte in the shade of electric pumpkin. Call it The Great Pumpkin effect. If an orange creamsicle froze on your lips, it would look like this.

Nicole Miller
James Kiliardos was having a Twiggy moment for Nicole Miller’s spring show. “I’m feeling Twiggy 1972,” he said, applying mascara on the top and bottom of a model’s eyes – with no liner. While the clothes were chic and contemporary with rushes of goldenrod, the makeup stayed in the pinkberry family, with pale blush high on the cheekbone and a berry stain on the lip. “it’s all about putting a concentration of mascara at the root of the top and bottom of the eye,” he explained, “then you comb it out to the ends.” Welcome back, Twiggy.

L.A.M.B.
Polly Osmond and Gwen Stefani have this in common; a love of ladies from the fifties and sixties. “We both love that smoky vampy eye,” said Osmond, who did Stefani’s makeup for her runway walk, too. So for L.A.M.B. spring, Osmond did what she called a “3-D smoky grey eye” that put charcoal powder at the crease and above the lashes. The face was finished with a very sheer beige lip – and long white shiny fingernails.

Keep reading for some photos of the models from the shows!

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Wednesday, September 5th, 2007

Even though Temptalia.com couldn’t be there in person, New York Fashion Week started yesterday and is now in full swing. Our friends at MAC Cosmetics did not want us to be left out and are sharing with us yesterday’s trend report! Take a look and read about some of the excitement of the kick off of Fashion Week.

Josh Goot
For Aussie-turned-New Yorker Josh Goot’s Azzedine-referenced spring collection, Phillipe Chansel made the makeup disappear. The models’ faces looked absolutely nude — “but that’s because the makeup is really well blended,” he explained. Using MAC’s Micronized Airbrush Foundation without the actual airbrush achieved the look – while MAC Lip Erase took down the lip colour. The cheeks had the most subtle hint of contour and highlight – but the real action was at the nape of the neck. There, Chansel dabbed silver, white, pink, or gold powder patches behind the girls’ high sleek ponytails. “To catch the spotlight as they walk,” was the reason – a new novel placement for makeup? Necks could be the new eyes.

Grey Ant
Makeup artist Tiffany Johnston had an epiphany at Grey Ant’s Spring ’08 show; plastic skin. “It has a little reflection,” she described. “So it’s not dewy – and it’s not matte, either.” Using a tiny amount of neutral lip gel and cheek highlight, she then obliterated her near-natural look with doll eyes straight out of a Keene painting; one set of models had blacked out eyes; the other electric blue. “I cut off the false lashes at the end and packaged mascara on, creating a feeling of paper mache,” she described. All in all, the spring look at Grey Ant was about texture – a mix of real and fake – and virtually no colour.

Band of Outsiders
Band of Outsiders appropriately nautical spring show aboard a ship at Chelsea Piers inspired makeup artist Romy Soleimani to break out the navy eyeliner. Ships ahoy! Indigo is always a sure sign of spring. The actual base makeup was carefully applied and this season’s first trend we’ve spotted; pale pale contouring of cheeks, for that ravenously hollow but still healthy look, worked well with naval chic.

Keep reading for some photos of the models from the shows!

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