When it comes to describing fashionista Daphne Guinness, François Nars’ passion knows no boundaries. And when it came to designing and photographing this futuristic makeup look for Fall 2010, François created a look worthy of his leading lady.
Central to this ultra-sophisticated, ethereal look: A canvas of impeccably, smooth skin. Under Nars’ direction, Makeup Artist Kabuki primed the skin with line-erasing Skin Smoothing Face Prep, followed by a base of Siberia Sheer Matte Foundation and finally a light application of Snow Loose Powder. To contour Daphne’s complexion, he dusted Douceur Blush to the cheeks and blended it with the Yachiyo Brush.
To create scintillatingly dramatic eyes, Kabuki applied a coat of Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base, followed by a wash of Daphne Single Eyeshadow. Using the Wide Contour Brush, he built color and intensity along the outer eye. For brightness in the inner eye, he applied Mangrove Single Eyeshadow and lightly lined the top and bottom lashes with Nuits Blanches Eyeliner Stylo. Brows were defined with Ipanema Eyebrow Pencil. The look was finished off with two coats of Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara to both the top and bottom lashes. The pièce de résistance: Daphne’s lips, stained with Rouge Basque Lipstick and highlighted with Scandal Lip Gloss for ultimate shine and fullness.
Douceur Blush ($26.00)
A soft pink-brown hue that lightly imparts a honeyed brown kiss of innocence on cheeks. Unique to the Fall 2010 collection, the powder is lightly etched with the NARS logo. Use to contour from the apple of the cheek upward; warm forehead, jaw line and nose.
Daphne Eyeshadow ($23.00)
Style icon. Designer. Model. Heiress of haute couture. Named after Daphne Guinness herself—François Nars’ inimitable muse—this hypnotizing matte, deep-violet single eyeshadow exudes excitement. Apply liberally across the lid up to the brow, blending outward. Head-turning.
Mangrove Eyeshadow ($23.00) (Limited Edition)
The magnificence of this tropical tree, captured in the softest, mellow yellow laced with lime. Richly pigmented and crease-resistant, use this single eyeshadow to highlight the inner corner of the eye, as a bright base shade for the lid or to diffuse a deeper shade by sweeping it into the bridge.
Coconut Grove Eyeshadow ($23.00)
Grooving in the Grove—Miami’s magical neighborhood on Biscayne Bay—has attracted musicians, artists, and writers for decades. Dense, dramatic, and daring, this dark chocolate-cum-taupe confection increases depth on the lid and doubles as a lash liner when used wet.
Rouge Basque Lipstick ($24.00) (Limited Edition)
Inspired by the inside cover of a book from the famed French countryside, François Nars envisioned the quintessential red from the Basque region. The result is lipstick with a luminous satin finish. It is as deeply pigmented as the region’s history and as bold as the wine for which the area is known. Pair with NARS pencils, or apply with a NARS lip brush.
Imagine juicy, mouthwatering strawberries, just picked. Then delight in the serious, yet sexy shine of this bright pink confection. Worn alone or over NARS lip products, the gloss’ Vitamin-E enriched formula seals in moisture. Lips feel supple and hydrated.
Once the NYC hot-spot, characterized by glamour, glitz, and decadence. This sparkling turquoise soft touch shadow pencil rocks with all the vibrancy and sex appeal of its namesake. Layer it with other NARS eye products—or go it alone—to line, accent, highlight or illuminate unforgettable eyes.
Tzarine Eyeshadow Duo ($32.00)
Love, sex and power. Russia’s empresses had it all. Inspired by royalty, the eyeshadow duo pairs the majesty of platinum gold infused with silver reflections with a bold, steel grey. Swipe and shadow along the upper lid or smudge along the lower. Positively regal.
Rajasthan Eyeshadow Duo ($32.00) (Limited Edition)
Sacred temples and scorching deserts. Bengalese tigers and Bagaru prints. India’s largest state fascinates and tantalizes. Like its namesake, the Rajasthan Eyeshadow duo is an exotic palette, playing glazed almond against cool charcoal. Worn solo, blended or layered, the look signals drama.
MAC In the Groove Collection: Overall Review & Round-up
In the Groove debuts in-store on Thursday, July 8th, but it’s been online since Tuesday morning. It’s a pretty massive launch with over thirty pieces and nearly all of them new and limited edition. Personally, it feels too big–it’s a little overwhelming and hard to focus on which products really stand out amongst the rest.
These are definitely some of the better formulated mineralize products that MAC has put out. I say this as someone who is, generally, not a fan of mineralize eyeshadows. I have always found them to look pretty in the pan than in practice–even using them wet never generated the look and feel I wanted out of them. The payoff on the lids is very much like what you see in a swatch–it doesn’t look faded. I also noticed that these were significantly less powdery and have a creamier, buttery texture.
Video review… grab some popcorn–it’s about 10 minutes longer than I wanted!
I think the pigmentation is good across the board with a couple of misses, and it’s important to realize that there really aren’t any bright, in-your-face kind of shades here. These are softer, subtler shades–more universally wearable–and the textures reflect that.
The blushes aren’t too glittery, though they’re all shimmery, but you can choose your shimmer level, since only half of each duo is really shimmery. If you’re more of a matte or semi-matte finish kind of person for cheeks, I’d recommend skipping the blushes and mineralize skinfinishes.
Must-haves:In the Groove Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Making It Easy Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Happy Together Blush Duo, By Candlelight Mineralize Skinfinish, Jazzed Lipstick
Nice-to-haves:Togetherness Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Love to Love Mineralize Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Band of Roses Blush Duo, Hang Loose Blush Duo, Stereo Rose Mineralize Skinfinish, Petticoat Mineralize Skinfinish, Chillin’ Cremesheen Glass
Skip ALL STYLED UP if you have VIVA GLAM GAGA, SAINT GERMAIN, SNOB, OR REAL DOLL. (They are not 100% identical, but they are all in the same family and very close.)
Skip GO FOR IT if you have VIOLETTA (PRO)–unless you want something sheerer and less red-toned.
Skip the CREMESHEEN GLASSES if you want pigmented lip color. They are not it.
Skip JAZZED if you have RAVISHING (permanent) & VEGAS VOLT (permanent)–you can mix the two to get something very similar.
Skip I LIKE IT LIKE THAT if you get ALL STYLED UP (or vice versa) but you don’t need both.
Skip CALL MY BLUFF if you have FRESH BREW–it’s a smidgen cooler and they have different finishes.
Skip YOU’VE GOT IT if you have CHAI (permanent)–unless you prefer a non-sticky texture.
Skip HANG LOOSE if you have WELL-DRESSED (permanent)–unless you want more shimmer.
Skip BAND OF ROSES if you have DOLLYMIX (permanent)–but the former is more versatile as you can lighten/darken as you desire.
Skip STYLE INFLUENCER if you have DEEP TRUTH (permanent) or one of its many limited edition variations.
Don’t forget to…
Check your stash for CREME D’NUDE (permanent), BY CANDLELIGHT (from Warm & Cozy), STEREO ROSE (from Goldplay), COMFORT (from Warm& Cozy), PETTICOAT (from Sheer Minerals).
Recommendations by Skin Tone
Best Picks for Lighter Skin Tones: Cool, Calm, Collected Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Making it Easy Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Hang Loose Blush Duo, Band of Roses Blush Duo, By Candlelight Mineralize Skinfinish, Petticoat Mineralize Skinfinish, Going Casual Cremesheen Glass, All Styled Up Lipstick, Creme d’Nude Lipstick
Best Picks for Medium Skin Tones: Love to Love Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Making it Easy Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Happy Together Blush Duo, Band of Roses Blush Duo, Stereo Rose Mineralize Skinfinish, Right Image Cremesheen Glass, Jazzed Lipstick
Best Picks for Darker Skin Tones: Togetherness Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, Blue My Mind Mineralize Eyeshadow Trio, A Little Bit of Sunshine Blush Duo, Band of Roses Blush Duo, Stereo Rose Mineralize Skinfinish, Comfort Mineralize Skinfinish, You’ve Got It Cremesheen Glass, Go For It Lipstick
MAC In the Groove Collection: Mineralize Eyeshadow Trios
In the Groove is a HUGE collection, and if you love mineralize products, you’re in luck–because that’s the theme. These are softer, smoother, and have a pearly/satin-y finish rather than glittery or overly shimmery. There are only a few frosty finishes here, but overall, a lot smoother and less powdery than previous mineralize eyeshadows.
Mineralize Eye Shadow (Trio) ($19.50 U.S. / $23.50 CDN)
In the Groove is a neutral-warm trio of a muted saffron gold, reddish brown, and pale peach with white sheen. This is actually very lovely trio — it works together, but they’re all easy-to-wear shades that could be matched with other products, too. Pigmentation was just right. The lightest yellow-y shade reminded me of an old, long discontinued shade Jasmine.
Calm, Cool, & Collected is a cool-toned green trio featuring a grayish-white beige with satin sheen, neutral spring green, and darkened gray-green. The springy green shade was pretty sheer, and the darker green was a little sheer, too.
Togetherness is a cool-toned purple trio that includes a soft lilac with a satin sheen, blue-based violet purple with a frostier finish, and a mid-tone silver gray. The pigmentation here was even and rich throughout the trio.
Style Influencer is a trio of grayish-white with low-level pearl, darkened navy blue with a frosty finish, and dirty pink-brown with a satin sheen. The dirty pink was a little lacking in pigmentation. The only easily dupeable shade in this trio is the dark blue, which is a good bit like Deep Truth.
Blue My Mind is a trio of soft, whitish blue, blue-teal, and soft black. I found that this was the least pigmented, and it was definitely better to use it wet than dry.
Love to Love is a trio of soft beige with a low-level satin sheen, copper with an almost metallic sheen, and muted neutral mid-tone brown. All three shades were very smooth and pigmented. The lightest shade is similar to Vanilla or Shroom, while the coppery shade is very much like Amber Lights. The darker brown doesn’t scream a dupe, but it’s likely a bit similar to one of MAC’s many neutral browns–but the satin-y finish is different.
Making It Easy is a pearly trio of peach-champagne, champagne, and softened orange-brown. This is a warmer trio, and it could create a very subtle, everyday eye. The middle shade reminds me of Retrospeck, except without the glittery finish.
Fresh & Easy is a trio of petal pink with white sheen (similar to Pink Freeze), muted cranberry (a less pigmented version of Cranberry), and muted sky blue.
Soften the Mood is a trio of muted sky blue with pearly sheen, mauve-toned champagne, and mid-tone neutral brown with a soft sheen. I feel like this one is a combination of the other trios — the blue from Fresh & Easy, the champagne from Making it Easy, and the brown from Love to Love.
These are a lot more pigmented than previous launches when they’re used dry–they’re more pigmented wet, of course–but they are decent to well-pigmented dry. They also adhere way better to lids. I used them over NARS Smudgeproof Eyeshadow base, and I didn’t see the color fade within minutes like I typically do. I also had very little fall out, which I was surprised to see (or not see, as the case may be). I’d say the formula seems much improved–more cohesive, smoother, and user-friendly.
MAC In the Groove Collection: Mineralize Blush Duos
In the Groove features five different blush duos, and there is a good range of colors in the collection. Happy Together and Hang Loose are the most wearable of the five, while A Little Bit of Sunshine and Band of Roses are the most pigmented and should be used with a light hand or stippling brush. New Vibe is a bit more of a glittery mix than the others, which have more luminous/soft satin sheens.
A Little Bit of Sunshine is an orange-y bronze duo — it features a shimmery orange-copper with a frost finish paired with a orange-toned medium brown with a satin finish. Together, they blend to create a muted orange-brown with soft sheen. It would better suit warmer skin tones, just because it does run rather orange. On my skin, it turns a little orange and definitely needs to be buffed out and used lightly.
Happy Together contains gilded champagne and peach-brown, and together they create a soft champagne-peach. Very luminous. I think this works well on warm skin tones for a little glow–more as a highlighter than intensely pigmented blush, though. It looks like a subtle bronzer on my skin. I think that you can go lighter/darker with ease, since you just have to focus on one half of the duo.
New Vibe is a duo that features a satin-y raspberry pink and shimmery bright copper with microglitter. When swirled together, they create a muted raspberry shade. I don’t really like the way they come together–it’s kind of muddy, even when worn. It’s not as pigmented as the other shades, too, when mixed.
Hang Loose is a mix of slightly cool-toned baby pink with a satin sheen and a frosted pale lilac with a white sheen. Together, they blend into a subtle shimmery pink–imparts some color on cheeks with enough build-up and concentration on the pinker side, but it’s very shimmery. It’s a very cool-toned, baby doll pink on my cheeks, but it does deliver a surprising amount of color. Again, you have to use the pink side more than the shimmery lilac side to get decent color pay off on cheeks.
Band of Roses features a played down fuchsia pink and darkened raspberry pink, both with more satin-y finishes. They create a pinker raspberry shade when blended together. It’s very pretty when worn, but it’s also incredibly easy to over-do it. Use a light hand with this one!
I did, however, finally figure out why mineralize blushes and skinfinishes don’t work so well with my skin–dimethicone is the third or fourth ingredient–and my arch nemsis! At least I know feel like I have a handle on it, even if it makes me sad that I won’t be wearing these much.
MAC In the Groove Collection: Mineralize Skinfinishes
In the Groove is most likely so anticipated because of the repromotion of Stereo Rose mineralize skinfinish. Which will sell out… in hours. If you’re grabbing it online, it most likely will pop online on the 6th, but there is always a chance it will make an appearance on Monday afternoon. I’ll be sure to tweet about its availability as soon as I see it online. I don’t have Stereo Rose yet–have to buy that when it launches–and I don’t have the original for comparisons, so my deepest apologies for that.
Edited @ 4:24PM (pst): I hope to update this post tomorrow–the 8th–with photos/swatches of Stereo Rose, assuming my store did in fact hold the Stereo Rose like they said. Nevertheless, I updated the post with photos of me wearing the other three mineralize skinfinishes.
By Candlelight is is a soft, sheer gilded pink-beige. It’s really great as a highlighter on cheeks or even subtly all-over the face.
Petticoat is a darkened raspberry pink-bronze. This is one of the mineralize skinfinishes that can change color depending on how much glitter veining you have (and also, the less glitter veining, the less glitter). I don’t find Petticoat obnoxiously glittery, though. It’s pigmented enough to be worn as a blush for light and medium-dark skintones–the deepest skin tones may find it very subtle.
Comfort is a slightly bronzed brown with golden sheen. This is nice on warmer skin tones as a subtle flush on cheeks or as a bronzer. It’s one of the less shimmery mineralize skinfinishes, and it’s also one of the more pigmented ones, too.
MAC Cremesheen Glasses: You’ve Got It, On the Scene, Fashion Whim, Chillin’, Right Image, Going Casual
MAC In the Groove Collection: Cremesheen Glasses
In the Groove launches on the 8th, and it contains six new and limited edition shades of Cremesheen Glass–a thin, non-sticky, sheer gloss. They coordinate rather obviously with the majority of the lipsticks, with the exception of Chillin’ which doesn’t quite align with any of the lipsticks from this launch.
You’ve Got It is a subtle grayish brown with multicolored shimmer, predominantly white, though. It has that same mushroom-y look as Call My Bluff lipstick, so it would pair well with that. It would also wash out any of the other brighter shades a bit, too. It’s like a lighter, non-sticky version of Chai lipglass. It’s semi-sheer on lips–it tones down my natural color a bit and makes it look rather nude/washed out almost. Definitely not very brown on lips.
On the Scene is a light orange-peach with subtle white shimmer. I know someone is going to ask me if I’m sure I didn’t mess the swatches up, but On the Scene looks incredibly similar to Fashion Whim when applied to [my] lips. I’m not even joking. I put them on side by side to make sure, and I couldn’t tell. On the Scene is just barely warmer than Fashion Whim. On the full-face, you can see the way one is warmer, one is cooler. At first, I thought it was like Ember Glow, but on lips it’s a little different.
Fashion Whim is a light peach with pale gold shimmer. This is like a pinky nude that goes on semi-opaque . It’s kind of like Creme d’Nude in lipgloss form, or else a pinker version of C-Thru lipglass. It’s a little milky on my lips, so it has a tendency to emphasize lip lines.
Chillin’ is a very light, pale cloudy blue. On lips, it really just like a milky cool-toned white with multi-colored shimmer. I think it may be nice to use to add glossiness and a bring out the cool tones of a lipstick. If you were hoping for a truer blue or something pigmented, this isn’t it.
Right Image is a neutral-yellow pink with white shimmer. It’s just a pretty medium pink that applies semi-opaque with pink and white shimmer. Even though it’s pretty, you may own something similar.
Going Casual is a cool-toned, blue-based pink with iridescent purple and white shimmer–almost leans a little purple. It has a very milky look and does settle into my lip lines.
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Ease of Use: 4/5
RECOMMENDATION: If you like ultra sheer, milky glosses, then these are totally up your alley!