Wednesday, October 1st, 2014

MAC Catharina Ultimate Lipstick
MAC Catharina Ultimate Lipstick

MAC Ultimate Lipstick ($23.00 for 0.15 oz.) is a new and permanent formula with a shade range of ten (in the U.S., three additional shades available in Asia). The press release doesn’t have any real information regarding the formula, so going off of past years’ Couture offerings, it seems like it should be a hydrating, pigmented lipstick. These were supposed to launch online on the 24th, but I haven’t seen them pop up yet, so I’ll keep checking in hopes that the e-commerce site puts up a more descriptive blurb about the formula and will update the review if the formula makes any additional claims.  Update 10/13/2014: MAC has moved the online launch date to 10/29 and in-store date to 12/1.

I couldn’t say for sure if this is the same formula MAC has used in their previous Couture launches (especially since that isn’t always consistent–sometimes it has been the standard formula with fancier packaging), but it feel very similar to the formula used for the Marcel Wanders’ lipsticks (which is also where the packaging is from). A few of the shades now made permanent were launched previously, too. The price is noticeably higher than the standard MAC lipstick, though only a dollar more than the Mineralize Rich Lipstick formula. Worth noting, however, is that these are 50% larger than the standard MAC lipstick. The standard MAC lipstick is $160/oz., while the Ultimate lipstick is $153.33/oz. Of course, if you rarely get through half of a lipstick, then paying less will probably make you better off. Here’s a fun fact: only a $0.50 increase from the price in 2012 (based on Marcel Wanders)!

Catharina is described as a “fuchsia.” It’s a bold, bright fuchsia pink with cool, blue undertones and a luminous finish. It had mostly opaque color coverage, but there’s a slight translucency that gives it a lighter look applied to the lips. This shade lasted for five hours on me and was lightly hydrating. It had moderately slick, glide-on consistency with a bit of tackiness while worn. Bobbi Brown Hot Berry (P, $26.00) is darker, more shimmery. NARS Janet (P, $32.00) is darker, more shimmery. Too Faced Melted Candy (P, $21.00) is brighter. MAC Red Balloon (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Illamasqua Glissade (P, $26.00) is bluer. Estee Lauder Dominant (P, $30.00) is slightly bluer, brighter. MAC Feeling Amorous? (LE, $20.00) is more muted, redder. NARS Carthage (P, $26.00) is bluer. MAC Lickable (P, $16.00) is very similar. MAC Girl About Town (P, $16.00) is less glossy, slightly bluer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Dangerously Chic is described as a “cool mid-tone red.” It’s a medium-dark, pink-toned red with neutral-to-cool undertones and a glossy sheen. It had mostly opaque color coverage with a very creamy, emollient consistency. I didn’t experience with feathering with this shade (though I am not prone to it), and it lasted for five hours and left behind a soft, reddish stain. I found it slightly hydrating, but it was a little tacky on. MAC Frank-n-furter (LE, $16.00) is more matte. NARS Charlotte (P, $32.00) is darker. Urban Decay Mrs. Mia Wallace (LE, $22.00) is glossier. MAC True Love’s Kiss (LE, $16.00) is brighter, lighter. Urban Decay Gash (LE, $22.00) is slightly darker. Chanel La Desiree (327) (LE, $34.00) is more matte. MAC Just a Bite (LE, $16.00) is more matte. Givenchy Grenat Initie (307) (P, $36.00) is brighter. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Role Play (P, $18.00) is more matte. Maybelline Infra-red (LE, $7.49) is warmer. Giorgio Armani Red Fuchsia (503) (P, $32.00) is glossier. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Vogue en Violet is described as a “cool mid-tone violet.” It’s a fuchsia-magenta purple with cool, pink undertones and a glossy shine. It mostly opaque color payoff, and the consistency was lightweight, smooth, and had a fair amount of slip but didn’t slide around too much. It lasted for four and a half hours and was lightly hydrating. It’s a bit like a glossy version of MAC Heroine. NARS Silvia (P, $32.00) is lighter. Givenchy Croisiere Fuchsia (309) (LE, $36.00) is pinker. MAC RiRi Boy (LE, $16.00) is more matte, lighter. MAC Zen Rose (LE, $17.00) is pinker. Buxom Swinger (P, $21.00) is pinker, brighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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Catharina

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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product

Dangerously Chic

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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Vogue en Violet

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, October 1st, 2014

Miles of MAC by James Gager and Miles Aldridge
Miles of MAC by James Gager and Miles Aldridge

MAC has always held a very special place in my heart. I fell in love with makeup when I was a freshman in college after trying MAC’s Pigments. I was obsessed with them! The way they sparkled and shimmered, the intensity one could achieve when using them with Mixing Medium, and so I found my way down the rabbit-hole that is the world of MAC. They say that MAC is often a makeup enthusiast’s gateway drug, and it was certainly true for me.

I’ve been blogging for eight years now (October marks Temptalia’s 8th anniversary), and it never occurred to me that the blog could be much more than a hobby until MAC’s PR team sent me (little ol’ me!) an e-mail, inviting me to go backstage at San Francisco Fashion Week and attend a special press dinner for the event. When I received Miles of MAC by James Gager and Miles Aldridge ($45.00, available for $30.46 at Amazon and $32.66 at Barnes & Noble) yesterday, it really struck a chord with me, because it reminded me of the journey I’ve been on since falling head-over-heels in love with all things beauty and makeup. I remembered my time as an active member of the mac_cosmetics Livejournal community, where I learned so much about makeup and technique, and it was where I could “be” with people who also loved MAC and makeup.

Makeup is truly transformative medium, as who I am and the direction my life has gone in, would be very different had I not fallen in love when I did.  It made me feel pretty and feminine when I didn’t know I could. It helped me fake it until I made it–until I had the self-confidence with or without makeup, and it felt so empowering to be able to enjoy makeup as a source of art and self-expression.  It gave me an outlet for creativity when I was knee-deep in academia.  It gave me the opportunity to find and carve out my dream job–one I am extremely humbled and blessed to do.

I enjoyed flipping through and seeing the promotional imagery that MAC has used throughout the years and recognizing many of them (the majority are from 2007 to present). The book is as much an ode to the creativity and stories MAC has told over the years as it is to the talent of Miles Adridge, a photographer that has been responsible for many of MAC’s campaign visuals over the years.

As someone with a very personal connection with the brand, this book is a beautiful addition to my collection of beauty “memorabilia.” The book has a hardcover with 240 pages, over 200 of them are color photographs (and the remaining pages are often black with white text but still with the same quality with a light, glossy sheen and feel thick and weight between the fingertips), and there is a clear plastic jacket that protects the book itself. It seems very well-done to me with high quality printing, a variety of photos from over-the-top, avant garde makeup to more traditional beauty shots to themed collections (like A Novel Romance).

I’ve actually saved every press release MAC has sent me (hard copies) since they first reached out in 2007 (I believe MAC Smoke Signals & MAC Blue Storm were the first press samples I ever received). This is so much better, since the quality is higher with everything bound together. But truly, if one enjoys visuals from beauty campaigns, it is an interesting book and would be a great source of inspiration as it features work from some of the most well-known makeup artists in the industry, like Alex Box, Val Garland, Charlotte Tilbury, Ellis Faas. I appreciated that MAC credited these artists throughout the book but also in the “index” (of sorts), where you can see who did which promotional image and the year (I do wish they included the collection name, though). It seemed like a nice touch to me.

I thought the price was surprisingly reasonable for something as large, lengthy, and filled with color as this (plus, it’s hardcover). For the makeup lover in your life who already has all the palettes and lipsticks they could ever wear (and for a few more lifetimes), this just might be an excellent gift to give.

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Tuesday, September 30th, 2014

MAC The Matte Lip Lipsticks
MAC The Matte Lip Lipsticks

MAC Damn Glamorous Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “bright pink red.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark red with pink undertones and a matte finish. It is lightly cool-toned but may look more obviously cool-toned if you have cool, pink undertones. It had fully opaque pigmentation, and the color went on evenly and smoothly. This shade was not quite as creamy as others in the launch, but it didn’t drag during application. It lasted for almost eight hours and left behind a stain, and it was a little drying for the last two or three hours. Kat Von D Hellbent (P, $21.00) is darker, less pink. Too Faced Melted Ruby (P, $21.00) is brighter, glossier. Chanel La Precieuse (317) (LE, $34.00) is similar. MAC Glam (DC, $16.00) is a smidgen brighter. MAC RiRi Woo (LE, $16.00) is darker, more matte. NARS Luxembourg (P, $25.00) is lighter. MAC Ronnie Red (LE, $16.00) is similar. MAC MAC Red (P, $16.00) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

MAC Fashion Revival Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “deep raspberry.” It’s a dark, muted raspberry with a semi-matte finish. The color coverage was very nearly opaque (hint of my lip freckle coming through) with even color application. The consistency was lightly creamy, easy to apply, and lasted for almost seven hours. It was neither drying nor hydrating. Gucci Beauty Bitter Grape (P, $39.00) is more shimmery, sheerer. NARS Vera (P, $32.00) is brighter, redder. Marc Jacobs Beauty Cabaret (146) (LE, $30.00) is a touch lighter. Inglot #293 Lipstick Cream (P, $12.00) is much glossier. Illamasqua Shard (P, $24.00) is more matte. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

MAC Heroine Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “vibrant violet.” It’s a bold, magenta purple with cool, pink undertones and a semi-matte finish. It has mostly full color coverage, is lightly creamy and applies evenly, while the wear is about six hours on me, plus a stain. This is part of the permanent range, so I’ve reviewed it previously, and I didn’t retest it this launch. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

MAC La Vie En Rouge Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “bright orange coral.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark coral-red with warm undertones and a matte finish. It’s the kind of shade that’s so bright that it plays tricks on your eyes (stare at this for awhile, then stare at something neutral!). It had a lightly creamy consistency that wasn’t heavy, slightly clingy (but not in an uncomfortable way), and lasted for six and a half hours (probably wearable until about eight before you really needed to reapply). It was a little drying towards the end. Gucci Beauty Hibiscus Thrill (P, $39.00) is sheerer, lighter. NARS Kelly (P, $32.00) is lighter. NARS Grace (P, $32.00) is glossier. Chanel La Malicieuse (46) (P, $34.00) is lighter. Make Up For Ever #37 (P, $19.00) is a bit lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

This collection is supposed to launch online on October 2nd and in-stores on October 9th for North America locations. I only have “October 2014″ for international locations.

The Glossover

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product

Damn Glamorous

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Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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LE
product

Fashion Revival

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Heroine

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Tuesday, September 30th, 2014

MAC Mortal Veluxe Pearlfusion Eyeshadow Palette
MAC Mortal Veluxe Pearlfusion Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Mortal Veluxe Pearlfusion Eyeshadow Palette ($44.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a warm-toned mix of coral and bronze. If you’re unfamiliar with the formula, it’s supposed to be a “hybrid formula” that can be applied dry for sheer color, wet for opaque color with supreme blendability. In the past, many of these palettes have been incredibly shimmery and sparkly, but this one is a little toned down–more frosted than sparkle/glitter–so there is less concern for fall out. I get good wear out of the eyeshadows once they’re on, but they always look a bit faded applied. This palette could use more contrast, as the colors run together due to most of them being light-medium or medium in color. I’d also love one or two satin/matte finishes to add more variety.

Mortal #1 is a golden beige with warm undertones and a metallic sheen. It was semi-sheer both dry and wet, though it was more metallic when applied with a dampened brush. The texture was soft but not powdery, while it lasted for eight hours. See comparison swatches of similar shades / view side-by-side swatches on the Dupe List.

Mortal #2 is a golden orange with warm undertones and a frosted sheen. It had semi-sheer color payoff applied dry, and it was more opaque when applied with a dampened brush. The consistency was slightly powdery but very soft. On the eye, the color wore well for eight and a half hours before fading. See comparison swatches of similar shades / view side-by-side swatches on the Dupe List.

Mortal #3 is a brightened, medium coral-pink with warm undertones and a frosted, golden shimmer finish. It had semi-sheer pigmentation when applied dry, and it was fully opaque when applied damp. The texture felt finely-milled and soft, though it was a bit powdery to work with. It wore well for eight and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches of similar shades / view side-by-side swatches on the Dupe List.

Mortal #4 is a medium-dark, golden bronze with warm, orange undertones and a frosted, metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was mostly opaque but not as metallic as when it was applied damp. The texture was soft, smooth, and not powdery (which is a big deal for this formula). The color didn’t start to fade until after eight and a half hours of wear. See comparison swatches of similar shades / view side-by-side swatches on the Dupe List.

Mortal #5 is a warm-toned bronze with a slight gray/taupe vibe. Applied dry, it was more copper-bronze, and then applied damp, it had a stronger gray cast but still ran quite warm. The texture was soft and smooth, but the damp application didn’t yield full color coverage. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours. See comparison swatches of similar shades / view side-by-side swatches on the Dupe List.

The Glossover

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palette

Mortal

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Mortal #1

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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LE
product

Mortal #2

B

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, September 29th, 2014

MAC Trusted Instinct Veluxe Pearlfusion Eyeshadow Palette
MAC Trusted Instinct Veluxe Pearlfusion Eyeshadow Palette

MAC Trusted Instinct Veluxe Pearlfusion Eyeshadow Palette ($44.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a rather plummy palette with some warmth. The shades coordinate well with each other, and I liked that not all of them were incredibly glittery as some of the other Veluxe Pearlfusion palettes have been. If you’re unfamiliar with the formula, it’s supposed to be a “hybrid formula” that can be applied dry for sheer color, wet for opaque color with supreme blendability. I agree that the formula in the palette is easily blended, but at times, the shades blend too readily, sheer out and fade, and often, the colors run together and create a muddied appearance due to the very soft, sometimes powdery and other times crumbly, consistency of the shadows themselves. I think a good primer is a must here to help the shades stick better without sheering out so easily. I get good wear, though, and all five shades lasted for eight and a half hours.

Trusted Instinct #1 is apale, warm-toned beige with a frosted finish. It was sheer applied dry, semi-sheer applied damp. It was slightly powdery to work with. This type of shade seems to be in the majority of the Veluxe Pearlfusion palettes (some variation on beige). See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Trusted Instinct #2 is a warm, reddish taupe-brown with a frosted sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer and looked browner, but applied damp, the gray became much more pronounced and more opaque. The consistency was lightly powdery but blendable. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Trusted Instinct #3 is a medium-dark, warm-toned plum with a copper-red undertone and a pearly sheen. The texture was soft enough that it was a bit crumbly to work with when dry, where it also had semi-sheer coverage. It was easier to use with a dampened brush, as the eyeshadow smoothed out more. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Trusted Instinct #4 is a medium-dark, golden brown with warm undertones and a pearly sheen. It had sheer color payoff applied dry, and it was mostly opaque applied damp. The texture was soft but a little dry. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Trusted Instinct #5 is a blackened taupe with hints of purple and brown that has a more frosted, slightly sparkly, finish. It is fairly sparkly, though a lot of the sparkle doesn’t translate onto the lid, but there is some fall out over time. It had semi-sheer coverage applied dry and opaque pigmentation applied damp. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Trusted Instinct

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
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Trusted Instinct #1

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Trusted Instinct #2

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Monday, September 29th, 2014

MAC The Matte Lip Lipsticks
MAC The Matte Lip Lipsticks

MAC Living Legend Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “deep plum [with a Matte finish].” It’s a bold, deep dark berry with subtle warm undertones–it’s like a plummy-red as far as the undertones go. I think this may look slightly cooler against cooler complexions (more berry, less burgundy). The finish was more satin than matte, as there was a noticeable sheen that persisted for about an hour and a half of the total eight hours of wear. It wasn’t hydrating, but it wasn’t drying, so it wasn’t uncomfortable to wear. The color coverage was mostly opaque, and for such a dark shade, it did go on evenly overall but wasn’t perfect. I had a little bit of feathering that I noticed after the sixth hour of wear. NARS Ingrid (P, $32.00) is glossier. NARS Liv (P, $32.00) is glossier. MAC Lingering Kiss (LE, $16.00) is a touch warmer. Kat Von D Motorhead (P, $21.00) is lighter. MAC Instigator (LE, $16.00) is purpler. MAC Talk That Talk (LE, $16.00) is brighter. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Anita (P, $18.000) is warmer. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Black Metal Dahlia (P, $18.00) is more metallic, brighter. MAC Soulfully Rich (P, $18.00) is similar. MAC Prince Noir (LE, $16.00) is slightly cooler-toned. MAC Dramatic Encounter (LE, $16.00) is more muted. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Black Dahlia (P, $18.00) is brighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

MAC Nouvelle Vogue Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “soft blue pink [with a Matte finish].” It’s a brightened, medium pink with very subtle blue undertones and a satiny finish. It turns more matte in finish after an hour of wear. The formula was richly pigmented, creamy enough to glide on and deposit even color, and it wore well for five and a half hours. Bite Beauty Sweety (LE, $24.00) is lighter, brighter. Le Metier de Beaute Fiji (P, $32.00) is more shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

MAC Pander Me Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “soft peachy mocha [with a Matte finish].” It’s a muted, medium coral-orange with warm undertones and a satin finish (there’s too much of a sheen for it to really be a matte). It applied evenly with full color coverage. The color wore well for five and a half hours and was neither drying nor hydrating. NARS Jane (P, $32.00) is slightly darker. MAC Style Approved (LE, $22.00) is lighter. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Kimber (P, $18.00) is more orange, lighter. NARS Casablanca (P, $26.00) is similar. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

MAC Styled in Sepia Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “dirty cement beige [with a Matte finish].” It is a muted, medium-dark brown with a hint of gray–almost like a very warm taupe–and a mostly matte finish. It had fairly opaque color coverage, and the consistency was smooth and lightly creamy so it applied evenly and without dragging on the lips. It wore well for six hours with little settling into lines towards the end but was not drying (or hydrating). MAC Shitake (DC, $16.00) is more shimmery, warmer, less pigmented. Maybelline Touchable Taupe (940) (P, $7.49) is lighter, glossier. MAC Nude (LE, $16.00) is darker, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Matte Lip Collection is supposed to be online on October 2nd and in-stores on October 9th.

The Glossover

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product

Living Legend

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Nouvelle Vogue

A

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

Pander Me

A

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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