CAROLINA HERRERA | “Eclectic” is a way to describe the new fall aesthetic, but “texture” is also coming into play along with “color.” At the show, Diane Kendal went for a big pop of color on the lips to get a “really dark stained mouth.” She started with a brown base with a burgundy base layered on top, dusted lightly with powder, and then coating with a brown-burgundy lipstick. Finally, she dotted black pigment on the center of the lower lip for a “bitten effect.” She then used the same burgundy base to smudge onto cheeks and finished with a flourish of mascara. “It’s all about a strong mouth. It’s sophisticated, but playful at the same time,” says Diane Kendal.
Look breakdown | MAC Studio Tech Foundation was applied where needed for fresh, moisturized skin. Burgundy Paintstick was blended onto the apples of the cheeks with fingers. A small about of MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack was applied to the lash line with Brush 210. Eye lashes were curled and coated with Plush Lash Mascara in Black – heavy on the top lashes and light on the bottom lashes. A mixture of MAC Lip Pencils in Nightmoth and Chestnut were sheared out on the lips and Media Lipstick was layered over. A touch of MAC Créme Colour Base in Black was blended into the center of the lips with Brush 316.
MALADRINO | Tom Pecheux went with green eyes to keep with the show’s theme of green and organic. He used a dark green, lime green, and moss green to create a rounded eye up to the crease of the eye. The models had bare cheeks and a matte nude lip that was created by MAC’s Lip Erase that Pecheux described as “it’s like a concealer and lipstick in one.” “Very organic. Very green. Reminiscent of leaves,” says Tom Pecheux.
Look breakdown | For very matte skin, MAC Studio Fix Fluid was applied to the face, followed by Blot Powder Loose. Using MAC Brush 224, Bitter Eye Shadow was applied very lightly all over lids and softly in the crease. Velvet Moss Eye Shadow was brushed onto the lower lash line, followed by Tealo Powerpoint Eye Pencil layered gently over lower lash line. Using MAC Brush 224, Bitter Eye Shadow was applied very lightly all over lids and softly in the crease. Velvet Moss Eye Shadow was brushed onto the lower lash line, followed by Tealo Powerpoint Eye Pencil layered gently over lower lash line. Lips were conditioned with Lip Conditioner to help with texture, followed by Lip Erase.
LUCA LUCA | Again, Tom Pecheux created a look that represented the Luca Luca lady who is “cash–and sass,” so he opted for gold on the lid and crease. The lips were a sheer coral so keep the emphasis on the eyes with everything else more understated. “Sophisticated glam rock,” says Tom Pecheux.
Look Breakdown | MAC Studio Fix Fluid was applied where needed on the face, followed by Select Sheer Loose Powder. MAC Carbon and Ground Brown Eye Shadows were blended from lash line to just above the crease for a smoky eye. Satin Taupe Eye Shadow was placed in the corners of the eyes brushed out and up towards the brows with Brush 224. MAC 7 Lashes were applied, followed by MAC PRO Lash in Black. A sheer lip was created with applying MAC Lust is Lush Lipgelee.
PORTS 1961 | Isabelle LaPage created a look that represented the pink skin of a Scottish girl, only she went with played down lips using burgundy pigmented mixed with MAC’s Matte Gel. She kept eyes glossy with high shine by using a berry lip gelee. She placed clear plastic pieces on top, “so it was little like a cherry popsicle highlighted the eyes.”
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HERVE LEGER | “She’s mean,” is how Val Garland described the tough sexy woman who prances in Herve Leger bandage dresses. “The Leger lady is severely sexy — not obvious sexy.” She threw out the smoky cat eye and instead did a liquid sparkly gold eye with a very chalky pink matte lip complimented by a matte cheek with a subtle shine like wetness.
DKNY | Charlotte Tilbury opts to go for a fresh, wide-eyed kind of look. She used MAC’s to-be-launched mascara for dazzling lashes, while the lips were a mixture of Lush and Rapturous mattene lipsticks. Cheeks were sculpted and painted a soft pink.
PREEN | James Kaliardos went for a colorface that is reminscent of Kim Basinger in “Nine and a Half Weeks.” He created a grey, taupe rounded eye using regular powder shadows in combination with cream shadows, and he contrasted it with a red lip. It wasn’t a scarlet or blood red, but more like a blue based red that borderlines fuchsia with a touch of gold opalescence.
TULEH | Polly Osmond thought of Charlotte Rampling in the 70s for inspiration, which meant a shiny metallic eye that dominated. She used bronze pigment on the eye with a chocolate shadow in the crease. Emote blush was used to shade and sculpt the cheeks. Polly went for tofee lips using 4N lipstick with 2N lipglass.
JOHNATHAN SAUNDERS | Val Garland mixed and layered warm wine tones; claret, tawny port, merlot — and even a little champagne — to add to the list of fall 2008 faces that are romantic, flushed, wind-touched, with both matte and shiny elements. She calls it “sexy texy.”
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SARI GUERON | “Sari’s clothes have a lot of volume this season,” explained makeup artist Gucci Westman. To counteract this, she opted for “Grey, smudgy, and slept in – very real girl” eyes with nude pink lips. “She’s the girl we all want to be,” laughed Westman. “She doesn’t take hours to do her makeup and she still looks good.”
RUFFIAN | It was all about the eyes as James Kiliardos designed the look for the show. He smeared eyes with a pale gray mixed with violet, followed by gloss “for a hollowed wood nymph effect.” He did focus on the lips by adding a bright pop of a semi-matte red and purple that showed up as a shocking fuchsia. He skipped mascara as well as sculpting the cheeks, so the lips could stand out even more.
THREEASFOUR | Gordon Espinet describes the fall look as “radiance,” which inspired his look for the ThreeAsFour show. The skin is no longer powdered or shiny, just flawless. He applied MAC’s new mineralized blush to give a look of “faces on a cold winter day” and used a rose lip color that was high glossy in finish and yet not at all frosty. He used MAC’s #20 lashes along with Royal Winkd fluidline to make the eyes really pop.
ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH | “Think Bauhaus and pop art,” Philppe Chansel said as he described his inspiration for the looks of the show. He used bright pops of colors in various uses from blue to green or pink or orange from MAC Chromacakes. They were created in dome shapes with black liner and false lashes. He went for a beigey pink gloss on the lips and natural cheeks.
COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA | Makeup artist Kabuki was responsible for the makeup seen at the show, where he layered burgundy, pink, and beige pigments to give faces a romantic appeal. “Think Mary Shelley and Frankenstein,” he described as influences. “She’s a little bit witch, a haunted woman straight out of the 19th century romanticism.” She used MAC’s Burnt Burgundy paint stick around the eyes with Taupe over it and adding a coat of gloss.
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JASON WU | In fall 2008, we saw the bright lip, while in spring 2008, it was all about cheeks and alshes. For fall 2008, it is about the glitter eye. At Jason Wu, we saw a very fifties/seventies-lady show of chiffons, florals, and A-line skirts with fur-trimmed sweaters. Artist Romy Soleimani said she gave models’ lips a wine color with layered peach pink over it, to give the illusion that she had just been sipping sherry. She created a gold on grey glitter eye — “grey for cool, and gold for warm,” she said — using MAC’s Reflects, a fine powder glitter. The eyes were soft, not disco, but rather “The harbinger of a whole new zeitgeist.” The cheeks were sculpted using the latest sculpt/shape line.
NICOLE MILLER | “Think Stephanie Seymour or Karen Mulder, the supes of yore,” said Romy Soleimani, who was the key artist for the show featuring brocaded cocktail dresses and coats in yellow or cobalt. It was a rather 80s kind of feel. She used glitter as inspiration with a maroon base that was topped with an olive gold from MAC Reflects glitter. She opted for lipstick in a rosewood color that was put sheerly on without liner, and no gloss. Lashes were looking false, looking incredibly long, but very fluttery–but they weren’t, chalk it up to the newest gel mascara MAC plans to launch later this year.
BABY PHAT | Christopher Ardoff noted Kimora’s inspiration was the 1920s, so he opted for a Clara Bow, Josephine Baker, Billie holiday kind of look. He blocked out brows using a nude pencil while he used grey glitter in a rounded crescent shape for the eyes. He paitned lips a red-orange kind of color that truly stood out. For darker skintones, he added more depth with burgundy glitter to eyes. (See photos below.)
An interview with Fafi, and of course, the relevant excerpt that has to do with the new launch!
How did you get involved in this project for M.A.C?
They approached me, it’s a cool project, I wanted to do that kind of thing for a long time.
Talk a bit about the line. What’s it called, What items are in it, what colors are there, what design did you choose for the packaging, and basically what makes it Fafi-makeup and not just regular makeup?
I think it’s regular make-up with a Fafi packaging! I didn’t work on the colors. I never bought M.A.C before because it was too expensive, but it’s actually crazy products and textures I have to say. I didn’t want to do random packaging, so I’ve created 3 characters for them: Eriko, Ermine and Monoka. They are from the CV but they sometimes come on earth to see what’s happening. They cannot be seen by human beings, so when they come it’s night time. Eriko loves Paris, french recipes and can’t stand people who owns restaurant and do mediocre food. Monoka loves to go to to Shibuya, Tokyo to sing 50 cent songs. Ermine searches for graffiti in NY with her camera.
When do they drop? Are the products limited, and if so how long will they be in M.A.C stores?
they drop for St Valentine’s day in the U.S and at Colette, then one month later everywhere else. I am going in a few countries to promote it, I just cancelled my Dubai event due to human reasons! Ha! it’s the first time i am involved in something.
Which product off of the line is your favorite, and why?
I have to wait, as usual I will be the last one to put my hands on it.
OVERALL, Fafi offers a lot of bright girly colors, lots of pinks, for this launch. There’s a few surprising colors that popped up, more sophisticated with darker tones or less shimmer, so I think most will find an item or two to pick up. I really liked the lip products, because of the cute, girliness of it all, but I would say that they’re not all unique so you could pass easily on some of them. The paint pots have excellent textures–they are all incredibly creamy, rich, and the color pay off is divine for all of them. I liked the quad with the green and peach-orange shadows, because I feel like you get more for your money, since the other quad has two permanent eyeshadows in it and the other two colors aren’t enough to persuade me to buy it anyway. I loved Sassed Up iridescent powder, and the blushes were lovely, but I’m not sure if I’ll cave for those yet. Oh, and by the way, the designs on the products are stickers, not actually printed on the products, which is a huge disappointment. It just seems cheap to me, and I know it’ll wear off easily (and heaven forbid it gets wet!). I wasn’t completely blown away by the launch personally, but I think it is a fun collection that offers just that, some fun. I picked up only a few items yesterday, because I’m going to a Fafi event on the 10th, so I’ll probably get more then. I just got Fun N Sexy lipstick, Squeeze It lipglass, and Cash Flow paint pot (plus, I had to get some PRO products, of course!).
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