Tuesday, January 13th, 2015

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette
Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 for 0.175 oz.) is an interesting mix of neutrals with two pops of bolder color–a coppery-orange and a bluish-teal. The new formula is supposed to be long-wearing, “crease-resistant,” and “richly-pigmented.” Though I am a fan of Hourglass and often think they put out excellent products, I wasn’t too impressed by this eyeshadow palette. The matte shades, while incredibly soft and finely-milled, are extremely powdery to work with. There is an excessive amount of powder kicked up just touching the brush to the surface, and even after tapping that excess off the brush, there is still fall out during application. The mattes didn’t wear well, and they were harder to blend on the skin for me.

The shimmery shades are not quite as prone to powderiness, but there is still some powder fall out during application. These shades can also be used wet or dry, and I had the best luck using them damp, as it prevented fall out and helped maintain intensity without having to build up the colors in layers. Wear was all over the place, so the eyeshadow formula on the whole seemed rather inconsistent. It is particularly disappointing, because Hourglass’ previous powder eyeshadow formula was one of the softest, most buttery and well-done, period. Here’s hoping the other palettes perform better, and this was just a one-off.

The two palettes I received as press samples were damaged on the top. I bought the four other palettes, so if those have any issues, I’ll be sure to note those things in the relevant review. A reader mentioned hers (that she purchased) also had scratches on the lid, which is an issue when you price your product at $58.

Graphite #1 is described as a “warm ivory.” It’s a very light beige with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It was very dusty and was difficult to apply to the skin; it just didn’t want to stay on well, and it was faded within six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #2 is described as a “copper gold.” It’s a brightened, copper with a warm, metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was very sheer and dry, even though the powder itself was incredibly fine. Unfortunately, it was only usable when applied with a damp brush and really pressed and smoothed over the skin, and then I was able to get rich, opaque color. Applied dry, it was a total mess; I could only see it working dry over a slightly tacky base. Dry, it was faded within a few hours, but applied damp, it lasted for almost seven hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #3 is described as a “deep brown.” It’s a dark brown with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had decent to good pigmentation, but the consistency was also powdery with a dryness to it that made it harder to blend on the skin. It just seems to stick wherever it initially lands without wanting to really diffuse or soften. It lasted for seven hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #4 is described as a “gun metal.” It’s a steely gray with a hint of blue and a pearly sheen. Applied dry, it was mostly opaque but less blendable. Applied dampened, it was more opaque and deeper, and it was easier to apply to the lid and use, though it dried back down quickly and became harder to blend out the edges. It wore longer–almost eight hours–compared to other shades, at least. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Graphite #5 is described as a “silver.” It’s more of a pewtery gold with subtle, warmer undertones with a metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer in coverage, and it did intensify to mostly opaque pigmentation when applied with a dampened brush. The texture was soft, blendable, but it was somewhat powdery. This was the only shade I liked in the palette. On me, the color wore well for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Graphite

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Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Graphite #1

D+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Graphite #2

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Product

6/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Monday, January 12th, 2015

Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette
Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette

Hourglass Modernist Eyeshadow Palettes ($58.00 for 0.175 oz.) popped up on Sephora last night for VIB Rouges. I bought four of them, but I did receive these two on Saturday from Hourglass, so I thought you might enjoy a preview while I test them out! :)

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Tuesday, January 6th, 2015

Hourglass Modernist Eyeshadow Palettes for Spring 2015
Hourglass Modernist Eyeshadow Palettes for Spring 2015

An artist-inspired eyeshadow palette with seamless color transitions offering effortless blending in a single pan. Each palette contains five richly pigmented shades in a range of finishes from matte to shimmer for an endless array of creative eye looks. The innovative multi-press, three-dimensional design, combined with a fine, creamy consistency, introduces a new level of control for blending and picking up pigment.

Modernist Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 U.S. / $67.00 CDN) (New, Permanent)

Innovative pressing technique provides a continuous form, offering advanced blending and artistry. Complementary colors for base, crease, and eyeliner allow for endless customised looks with one palette. Artist-inspired palettes feature a range of finishes, from matte to shimmer, for countless combinations, from subtle to dramatic. Unique sculptural design provides superior control for picking up and blending pigment. Each shade and finish is specifically calibrated to work with the other formulas within the palette. The finely-milled, creamy formula—the first of its kind—is exceptionally soft, longwearing and crease-resistant. Shimmer shades may be applied wet for more dramatic color.

  • Atmosphere (Cool Neutrals) Pale Ivory, Pale Pink, Taupe, Espresso, Charcoal
  • Color Field (Olive) Warm Ivory, Champagne Gold, Taupe Brown, Golden Olive, Forest Green
  • Exposure (Plums) Champagne, Aubergine, Bronze, Black Violet, Lilac
  • Graphite (Smokey) Warm Ivory, Copper Gold, Deep Brown, Gun Metal, Silver (Sephora Exclusive)
  • Infinity (Warm Neutrals) Warm Ivory, Dusty Rose, Bronzed Mauve, Cool Taupe, Dark Cocoa
  • Monochrome (Rose) Warm Ivory, Rose Nude, Peony Pink, Light Mauve, Dark Chocolate
  • Obscura (Earth Tones) Cream, Smokey Brown, Rose Gold, Coffee, Cool Bronze

Availability: January 18th at Sephora (early access for VIB Rouges, no specific date given), January 19th at HourglassCosmetics.com, January 23rd at Space NK, NET-A-PORTER, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys

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Wednesday, October 1st, 2014

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blush Palette
Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blush Palette

Update on 10/1: Now available for to all at Sephora while supplies last :)

A limited edition palette featuring three shades of ambient lighting blush, the groundbreaking blush that creates seamless, soft-focus and multidimensional color. Features two of our best-selling shades, Luminous Flush and Mood Exposure, as well as a new shade, Incandescent Electra, which is exclusive to the Ambient Lighting Blush palette.

Ambient Lighting Blush Palette ($58.00 U.S. / $67.00 CDN) (Limited Edition)

  • Luminous Flush Champagne rose blush fused with Luminous Light to evoke a candlelit glimmer
  • IIncandescent Electra Cool peach blush blended with Incandescent Light for a celestial glow
  • Mood Exposure Soft plum blush fused with Mood Light to brighten the complexion

Availability: Early access for VIB Rouges at Sephora while supplies last; October 2014 at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Net-A-Porter.com, Sephora, Space NK, and Hourglasscosmetics.com

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Saturday, September 20th, 2014

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blush Palette
Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blush Palette

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blush Palette ($58.00 for 0.33 oz.) is a trio of Hourglass’ blushes, including one shade (Incandescent Electra) that’s exclusive to the palette. Luminous Flush and Mood Exposure were very similar to the individual, permanent versions I have, though they varied slightly as is the nature of the product (swirled, so yours may be lighter or darker, depending on how much the blush and illuminator portions are). The Mood Exposure in the trio has more of the illuminator showing, but the general composition, look, feel, and so forth, are in the line with the standalone shades. Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blushes have a very soft, finely-milled feel that’s silky and a little powdery in the pan, but they don’t look powdery applied. They have good color payoff that’s buildable as well as blendable, so you can always take it down a notch if you prefer or go for full-coverage.

Full-sized blushes are $35 for 0.15 oz. or $233.33/oz., and each blush is 0.11 oz. in the palette for a total of 0.33 oz., so the palette contains $77 worth of blush. The Ambient Lighting Powders are $45 for 0.35 oz. or $128.57/oz. The Ambient Lighting Palette is $58 for 0.35 oz., so only a $45 worth of the Ambient Lighting powders, so the blush palette is actually a value-packed palette in comparison. If you rarely finish blushes, you may also consider that $58 for three blushes compared to $105 for three full-sized blushes (and similarly with the powder palette, $58 for three compared to $135 for three full-sized powders).

Everything about this palette is nice with regards to quality, wear, and color payoff, but I really wish the blushes had more variety in their undertones/colors–I think if you are very fair, you will notice the most difference between the three. On my medium skin tone, they look very similar with Incandescent Electra being the lightest and pinkest, followed by Luminous Flush, which is slightly warmer, and finally by Mood Exposure, which has a warmer, redder tone applied. I would have loved to see a cool-toned pink and more mauve-berry shade, because they could really be mixed and layered for even more variet (and that makes more sense to me for a trio format). This is how I felt about the permanent range when it initially launched as well. I hope Hourglass will consider adding more differentiated shades in the future.

Luminous Flush is described as a “champagne rose.” It’s a pop of light-medium, pink-coral with warm undertones and a satiny sheen. It had good color payoff with a soft, silky texture that was a bit powdery in the pan but looked soft, luminous on without emphasizing pores or skin imperfections. The color wore well for eight hours before fading slightly. Urban Decay Streak Blush (P) is warmer. Dior My Lady (003) (LE, $60.00) is pinker. NYX Apricot (P, $5.00) is warmer. MAC Petal Power (LE, $27.00) is more shimmery. Hourglass Diffused Heat (P, $35.00) is lighter. Tarina Tarantino Feather (P, $25.00) is similar. Tarte True Love (P, $26.00) is darker, pinker. Tarte Crave (LE, $26.00) is darker. NARS Day Dream (LE, $29.00) is more shimmery, darker. Physicians Formula Warm (P, $11.99) is darker. theBalm Frat Boy (P, $21.00) is darker. NYX Summer Peach (P, $5.00) is slightly pinker, brighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Incandescent Electra is described as a “cool peach.” It’s a light-medium pink with subtle warm, yellow undertones and a satiny finish. It had nice pigmentation, and the texture felt soft and smooth, though it was slightly powdery in the pan. It wore well for eight hours before fading, and it looked luminous without being too shimmery on the skin, so it didn’t emphasize skin imperfections or pores. MAC Lesson in Love (LE, $21.00) is slightly darker. Makeup Geek Spell Bound (P, $9.99) is darker, warmer. MAC Cheeky Bugger (LE, $21.00) is darker. Chanel Sakura (87) (LE, $45.00) is a touch darker. Charlotte Tilbury Love Glow (P, $40.00) is darker, more shimmery. Giorgio Armani Eccentrico (LE, $88.00) is more shimmery. Edward Bess Filled with Desire (P, $43.00) is cooler-toned. MAC Launch Away (LE, $21.00) is slightly cooler-toned. MAC Easy Manner (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Mood Exposure is described as a “soft plum.” It’s a medium-dark, plummy pink with warm undertones and a soft, satiny shimmer-sheen. The one in the pan seemed to have slightly less shimmer this time around, but it was within what I’d consider a normal variation for this type of product. It didn’t seem to impact the overall look of it once applied, which was softly luminous but not shimmery, so it didn’t emphasize pores. It wore well for eight hours on me. Surratt Beauty La Vie En Rose (P, $32.00) is very similar. MAC Corol #2 (LE, $21.00) is slightly more shimmery. Becca Raspberry/Opal (P, $27.00) is more shimmery. Bobbi Brown Nude Beach Blush (LE, $26.00) is darker. NARS Lovejoy (P, $29.00) is darker, more shimmery. bareMinerals The Indecent Proposal (P, $22.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Ambient Lighting Blush (2014)

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

Luminous Flush

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Incandescent Electra

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Saturday, September 13th, 2014

Here are five fun shades that might be worth checking out this fall in various shades of red and plum! I’d love to hear about your go-to glosses for fall! :)

  1. Bobbi Brown Naked Plum — a cool-toned, dusty pink-plum
  2. Milani Red My Lips — a bright, warm red
  3. Hourglass Siren — a rich, metallic red
  4. Bobbi Brown Black Ruby — a blackened red with gold sparkle
  5. NARS Baroque — a plum with gold shimmer

>> See side-by-side swatches! <<