Sunday, August 31st, 2014

Chikuhodo GSN-03 Cheek Brush
Chikuhodo GSN-03 Cheek Brush

Chikuhodo GSN-03 Cheek Brush ($96.00) is a large, dome-shaped face brush made out of gray squirrel and goat bristles. The brush head is 48mm in length, 38mm in width, and 22mm in thickness. It had a total length of 190mm with a pinched, metal ferrule. It’s such a large brush for cheek products; I couldn’t see this being useful for blush or highlighter for most, and only if you apply bronzer all-over would this be practical. It’s soft, well-cut, and hasn’t given me any problems with shedding or dye bleeding through over a dozen washes.

The brush head is dense but feathery against the skin, with the base being denser and firmer, and then as it tapers and flares outwards, it has more give. I’ve been using it primarily for applying loose setting powder and pressed finishing powders.  The brush is well-weighted with good weight distribution, and it feels comfortable in the hand. The way the ferrule and handle are shaped, the brush isn’t prone to rolling off a counter/desk.

Chikuhodo’s sizing for some of the GSN brushes seems off–several brushes are a lot larger than the average is. Brush size and shape is always going to be a combination of personal preference, application technique, and face/feature size, but just know that this is the size of your average powder brush.

Chikuhodo GSN-01 Powder Brush ($127.00) is a long-ish, extra large, dome-shaped powder brush with gray squirrel and goat bristles. The brush head is 56mm in length, 43mm in width, and 28mm in thickness. It had a total length of 193mm with a round, metal ferrule. It is similar in overall shape as the GSN-03, just a good deal larger. It is longer, so it had a little more flex, and it wasn’t as dense as the GSN-03, which makes sense for powder application. I’ve used this for applying powder foundation, loose and pressed finishing/setting powders, and for general blending of face products as a last step.

The brush feels soft against the skin and moves more as one, so it feels like silk, when you sweep it across the face. I haven’t had any issues with the overall quality of the brush after washing it over a dozen times. It does take awhile to dry, because it is a larger brush (though not as dense as the GSN-03, it’s still moderately dense).  Like the GSN-03, this brush has good weight distributed and feels balanced in the hand, so it is comfortable to hold and use.  It reminded me somewhat of Hakuhodo’s J104, which isn’t quite as soft, but is a fuller, rounder, less dense brush.

Neither are brushes that I’ve fallen in love with personally, as the GSN-03 is too large for blush but too dense for how I like to apply my loose setting/finishing powders. The GSN-01 is larger than I’d like, and I really love my Make Up For Ever #128 for a large brush and use it for loose setting powder application.

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GSN-03 Cheek Brush

The brush head is dense but feathery against the skin, with the base being denser and firmer, and then as it tapers and flares outwards, it has more give. I've been using it primarily for applying loose setting powder and pressed finishing powders.

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GSN-01 Powder Brush

I've used this for applying powder foundation, loose and pressed finishing/setting powders, and for general blending of face products as a last step. The brush feels soft against the skin and moves more as one, so it feels like silk, when you sweep it across the face.

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Monday, August 25th, 2014

Chikuhodo GSN-09 Eyeshadow Brush
Chikuhodo GSN-09 Eyeshadow Brush

Chikuhodo GSN-09 Eyeshadow Brush ($25.00) is a small-medium, dome-shaped eyeshadow brush made out of gray squirrel hair. The brush head had a length of 12mm, width of 6.5mm, and thickness of 2.5mm. It had a total length of 182mm with a pinched, metal ferrule. Of all the GSN brushes I’ve tried, this is easily my favorite, and I could see getting multiples of it, because it’s a really versatile brush for eyeshadow application. It’s narrower than my go-to MAC 239, but it is softer with a more domed edge. The narrower width allows it to apply color more precisely, which is helpful if you’re using more than two or three colors on the lid. It packs on, sweeps, and diffuses eyeshadow beautifully. The edge also fits into the crease area well and can apply color there, too, if you don’t have a go-to crease brush (or sometimes get lazy, in my case). It’s incredibly soft and silky against the skin, but it still picks up plenty of product, so you don’t sacrifice color payoff in your application.

Chikuhodo GSN-07 Eyeshadow Brush ($40.00) is a large, paddle-shaped eyeshadow brush made out of gray squirrel and fitch hair. The brush head a length of 21mm, width of 16.5mm, and thickness of 8mm. It had a total length of 190mm with a pinched, metal ferrule. As an eyeshadow brush, I think it’s very much over-sized and couldn’t incorporate it into an eyeshadow routine at all. I mostly found use for it in applying concealer underneath the eye or using it to press loose powder underneath the eye to set powder over concealer. The bristles are soft, while it had a dense, firm texture with light spring.

Chikuhodo GSN-12 Eyebrow Brush ($29.00) is a medium-sized, angled brush made out of raccoon hair. The brush head had a length of 7.5mm, width of 6mm, and thickness of 2mm. It had a total length of 177mm with a pinched, metal ferrule. The brush head is firm with a little give, and it’s a thicker brow brush so it actually gives a really soft brow color when used. You can get more precise edges, but the brow powder can be diffused and evened out throughout the brow. I like this for getting a defined but not harsh brow using powder eyeshadow. For gels and creams, it picks up too much product, but I liked it for blending out those formulas. I’ve been reaching for this over a lot of my other go-tos for brows, just because I really like how it blends out my brow powder.

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GSN-09 Eyeshadow Brush

Temptalia Recommends
Of all the GSN brushes I've tried, this is easily my favorite, and I could see getting multiples of it, because it's a really versatile brush for eyeshadow application.
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GSN-07 Eyeshadow Brush

This is going to be a brush that someone picks up because they're specifically looking for a larger, paddle-shaped brush for eyes or smaller areas of the face.
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GSN-12 Eyebrow Brush

I like this for getting a defined but not harsh brow using powder eyeshadow. For gels and creams, it picks up too much product, but I liked it for blending out those formulas. I've been reaching for this over a lot of my other go-tos for brows, just because I really like how it blends out my brow powder.
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Friday, May 30th, 2014

Chikuhodo Z-8 Cheek Brush
Chikuhodo Z-8 Cheek Brush

Chikuhodo Z-8 Cheek Brush ($141.00) is a medium-sized, tapered, slightly paddle-shaped, blush brush. The brush head is 1.25 inches or 3 centimeters in width, just over 1.5 inches or 4 centimeters in length, and 0.75 inches or 2 centimeters in thickness. It has an open ferrule and a total length of 6 inches or just over 15.5 centimeters. It is made out of gray squirrel hair.

It’s an impossibly soft, dense blush brush that applies both sheer and more pigmented blushes with ease, blends them almost as you apply and lay down the color, and never, ever irritates the skin. I like how dense and full the brush is, but it still has give; it doesn’t feel stiff or heavy against the skin–you still get a lot that featheriness of a less dense brush. This brush is a real multi-tasker, if you wish it to be, because it’s large enough to apply blush, bronzer, or powder as desired, but it isn’t overly large, so it could also work for dusting on a highlighter (probably one that is sheerer) or finishing powder all-over the face. I’ve had no issues with shedding over the past two months I’ve been test-driving it. I can see why some splash out for luxury brushes like this one, though that “is it worth it” question is always going to be difficult. I couldn’t think of similar brushes to this that I have; its density and roundness at its base made it hard to dupe (most of my blush brushes are flatter).

Chikuhodo Z-2 Highlight Brush ($92.00) is a thinner, tapered brush. It is made out of gray squirrel hair. The brush head is 1.5 inches or 3.5 centimeters in length, 0.75 inches or 2 centimeters in width and thickness (it is rounded). It has an open, rounded ferrule with a total length of 6 inches or 15 centimeters.

The really tapered tip allows for highlighting with precision along the bridge of the nose particularly well, but it can easily deposit highlight onto cheek bones, forehead, or even all over (this is actually how I’ve often used it: to dust on a finishing powder like Guerlain’s Meteorites). As it is a smaller brush, it may take a few more strokes for all-over application, but it seems like the ideal size for applying a highlight to cheek bones. It’s not so large that it will overlap heavily with your blush application, but it still has a soft, feathery feel so that the highlight applies evenly, smoothly, and is diffused on the skin. The most similar brush I have to this is the Hakuhodo J5521, which is shorter and is less tapered/narrow (and it is not quite as soft, but it’s a very soft and well-made brush as well). MAC 165 is also similar, though a lot less soft and not quite as pointed at the edge. MAC’s 138 has a similar shape but is two and a half times the size.

Chikuhodo Z-3 Contour Brush ($54.00) is small, flat circular brush that almost looks like a very, very tiny flat-topped kabuki with an elongated, thinner handle. I can’t recall having a brush shaped like this for contour (or for any other purpose in this size). It’s made out of gray squirrel hair and has a glossy black handle (slightly shorter than the average brush’s handle). The brush head measures just over 0.50 inches or 1.5 centimeters in length, just over 0.5 inches or 1.8 centimeters in width/thickness (it is round). It had an open, round ferrule and a total length of just over 5 inches or 13 centimeters.

If you prefer more precise, detailed-driven brushes, you might like this option for contouring, as it is noticeably smaller in general compared to your average face brush. It fits well underneath the cheek bone and in the hollow of the cheeks for contouring. The brush is incredibly soft, never scratchy or rough, whether used in a stippling, sweeping, or buffing motion. I really liked it for contouring, as you can get a stronger, richer contour line and then buff and blend it out without over-blending. But I really loved it for buffing concealer and applying powder beneath my under eyes and around the nose. The softness is much appreciated along the under eye area. It also worked well for buffing out the edges of cream blush or adding a bit of powder to soften an over-done blush without worrying about over-correcting as you might with a larger buffer brush.

Chikuhodo brushes can be purchase at Now-e Project. Starting today, they have reduced shipping up to free shipping, depending on purchase amount ($250+ = free). They also have four sets of various Z-series brushes bundled (saves a bit!) if you’re looking to buy a few at once. Or you can save 10% with code TEMPTALIA. All valid coupons cannot be used with other coupons (one per order), discounts, or special value offers.

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Z-2 Highlight Brush

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Z-8 Cheek Brush

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Z-3 Contour Brush

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Thursday, February 27th, 2014

Chikuhodo Z-Series Brushes -- Z-10, Z-5, Z-4, Z-1, Z-9
Chikuhodo Z-Series Brushes — Z-10, Z-5, Z-4, Z-1, Z-9

Chikuhodo Z-Series Brushes are a luxurious brush indulgence. There are ten brushes in the range, and for the past few weeks, I’ve been testing five of them: the Z-10, Z-5, Z-4, Z-1, and Z-9. (Other brushes include the Z-2, Z-3, Z-6, Z-7, and Z-8.) Chikuhodo is a Japanese brush manufacturer under their own brand as well as working with such brands as Shiseido, SUQQU, and Kanebo through original equipment manucaturing (OEM) (you can see their client list here). If softness is one of the key metrics you use to determine how much you love a brush, Chikuhodo’s Z-Series are the softest brushes I’ve experienced using. They don’t even feel like individual bristles, as they move and feel as one. The Z-Series is made out of gray or blue squirrel hair, and they’re designed to be used with powder products.

All five brushes I tried have held up well to multiple washings; they’ve retained their overall shape (but the face brushes are a little fluffier than they look initially), haven’t shed, and the larger face brushes didn’t take as long to dry as I expected (but overnight is still best). The ferrules on the Z-Series brushes seems very, very well-connected (almost like one-piece), which is different from a lot of the other brushes I have (Hourglass #2 was the only one at a glance that seemed similar). The major difference I found between gray squirrel and goat hair applications were that gray squirrel brushes tended to naturally diffuse and soften edges while applying the initial color/product, whereas goat gave a more precise, harsher edge, but both can blend and diffuse the product (so the end results were the same regardless of the hair type). I always do a blind test with several brushes (in this case, five different brands) with each brush with my husband–he closes his eyes, and we spend far more time than he’d like having him tell me what seems the softest to him, and yes, these brushes tended to come out on top, but the degree of softness is still very comparable to high-end brushes like Hakuhodo and Tom Ford.

Z-10 Eyeshadow Brush ($45.00) is a small, tapered brush that comes to a very fine, pointed tip. Its shape is much like a pencil brush, but it’s a little larger and feels a bit more like a tapered crease brush. The brush head is made using gray squirrel, and it is 10mm in length, 5mm in thickness, and 5mm in width. It had a total length of 5 inches or 12.5 centimeters with an open, round ferrule. The handle is well-balanced but lightweight, and the handle is shorter than the average brush. The one characteristic about that stood out to me about this is is it never felt sharp, whether held vertically or horizontally, at an angle or straight-on. It’s dense but not too firm, so it has some give, which means that despite its very fine tip, it is not as precise as a firmer, denser pencil brush. I really loved it for applying crease color, blending out crease colors, and applying color to the inner tear duct/inner lid with more precision than my typical dome-shaped go-tos.

NARS #12 ($27.00) is a little skinnier, and it is more of a small, tapered crease brush in overall shape, but I felt like it applied and felt similar in terms of density, though it isn’t as soft as the Z-10. MAC’s 226 ($26.00) is larger with a more severe tapered edge and a greater variety in lengths, and it is, unsurprisingly, has a rougher texture (and there is a lot of variance in the shape, density, and texture between versions of the 226).

Z-5 Eyeshadow Brush ($56.00) is a large, dome-shaped brush. The brush is made out of gray squirrel hairs, and the brush head is 16mm in length, 19mm in width, and 6mm in thickness. It had a total length of just over 5 inches or 13 centimeters with a lightly pinched ferrule. I think the larger size will make it great for some, but then a shape others would rarely reach for; I fall into the latter camp. If you were applying a single color all-over the lid, it absolutely works well for that. It picks up color well and applies a lot of color from the get-go, and it’s particularly nice for those sub-par eyeshadows in one’s stash, as you don’t have to pack on the eyeshadow for quite as long. It also seems to diffuse the color along the edges where it’s been placed, as if you blended it, but all you did was pat it on. The bristles aren’t all the same length, as they shorten as you move to the sides of the brush, it also works well to blend out edges and fade colors upwards towards the brow bone. I also liked it for patting on setting powder underneath the eyes (to set concealer).

Inglot #27P ($21.00) is the most similar in shape, size, and density, but it is wider and has more rounded edges. shu uemura #11 ($140.00) is slightly narrower and significantly longer, but it has a somewhat similar density (not quite as dense throughout), and because it is longer, it has more give. OCC #007 Large Shader Brush ($22.00) is smaller, more tapered along the edge, and half as thick. MAC 252 ($32.00) is similar in shape along the edge and at a glance, but it is significantly less thick and dense. Tom Ford #11 ($55.00) is a little more flared at the edge with a more rounded dome shape, and it is also less thick and less dense.

Z-4 Cheek/Highlight Brush ($92.00) medium-sized, blush brush with a domed edge and tapered bristles (so the lengths get shorter as you move outward from the center). It’s not a rounded brush, more flattened, but it is not really thin or flat. The brush is made out of gray squirrel, and the brush head is 35mm in length, 28mm in width, and 15mm in thickness. The brush had a total length of just under 6 inches or 15 centimeters with an open ferrule. It’s excellent for applying soft, even color along the cheeks with minimal blending required. Sometimes, after swatching five or six blushes on my cheeks back-to-back, I pay for it the next day with irritated, reddened skin that can result in drier patches, and this brush is very forgiving on the skin without further irritating it–and it manages to make color apply more evenly than many other brushes I own despite the rougher surface. It feels like silk, and it feels like a single swish across the face; you never feel the individual bristles. It’s dense without being too heavily packed with bristles but doesn’t feel wispy against the skin; just right for versatility, so it can be used with heavily pigmented blushes, sheerer ones, and it can work well with highlighters and bronzers, too.

Hakuhodo G5545 ($48.00) is very comparable in terms of softness and general application, but it is flatter and wider with a more feathery, lighter feel against the skin as it is not as dense. shu uemura #20 ($50.00) is a little more square-ish in shape and flatter, not quite as soft. Sephora #73 Pro Precision Brush ($32.00) is more tapered at the edge, a little squatter, and it is not as soft, though I wouldn’t describe it as rough either. MAC 116 ($35.00) is thicker and more rounded at the edge, and it is a lot less soft.

Z-1 Powder Brush ($226.00) is a large, rounded, slightly tapered brush. It is one of the larger brushes I’ve come across and have in my brush treasure trove. The brush is made out of gray squirrel hair, and the brush head is 45mm in length, 35mm in width, and 35mm in thickness. It had a total length of just over 6 inches or 16 centimeters with an open ferrule. The lightly rounded, large edge makes blending powder products a breeze. I used this a lot like a kabuki brush but with a longer handle; it does a fantastic job of just finishing and setting everything into place. To that end, it also works well with finishing and setting powders, and even powder foundation (which I only tried a few times just to see how it performed). I really liked applying all-over highlighting powders with this (think Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders or Guerlain Meteorites, the latter was particularly lovely with this, as the brush fits well into the container). It’s incredibly soft and feels nice against the skin, but it is very effective.

MAC 138 ($53.00) is slightly skinnier and much more tapered. This was the only comparable brush I could think of, aside from the Z-9 below (which is not really the same shape but more similar than not).

Z-9 Powder Brush ($226.00) is large, rounded, slightly flat brush with medium-full density. The brush is made out of gray squirrel hair, and the brush head is 55mm in length, 40mm in width, and 26mm in thickness. It had a total length of 6.5 inches or 16 centimeters with an open ferrule. When it came to apply setting powder, I preferred this slightly more than the Z-1, because of the flatter shape, which enabled me to press the setting powder against the skin, rather than with more sweeping motion. For setting powders, I prefer pressing and patting, and for finishing powders, I like the more feathery, sweeping motions. The end result is very similar, though, regardless of the brush used. The Z-9 can be used in sweeping, patting, or pressing applications, and it feels like silk against the skin.

Compared to the Z-1, the Z-9 is larger, more dome-shaped, longer, flatter, and has more spring and give (so it is less dense and firm). Otherwise, I didn’t feel like any brushes I have were all that comparable in shape–most were significantly flatter. I feel like I should mention Tom Ford’s Bronzer Brush ($115.00), but the shape is significantly wider and the brush much denser and firmer, so I don’t think they’re comparable.

Chikuhodo brushes can be purchase at Now-e Project.  Brushes ship from Japan, so shipping isn’t cheap ($35), but there is free shipping on $300+ purchase with code VALENTINE2014.  Or you can save 10% with code TEMPTALIA (so orders under $300 would benefit best from this code).  All valid coupons cannot be used with other coupons (one per order), discounts, or special value offers.

The Glossover

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Z-10 Eyeshadow Brush

The one characteristic about that stood out to me about this is is it never felt sharp, whether held verticlaly or horizontally, at an angle or straight-on. It's dense but not too firm, so it has some give, which means that despite its very fine tip, it is not as precise as a firmer, denser pencil brush. I really loved it for applying crease color, blending out crease colors, and applying color to the inner tear duct/inner lid with more precision than my typical dome-shaped go-tos.
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Z-5 Eyeshadow Brush

I think the larger size will make it great for some, but then a shape others would rarely reach for; I fall into the latter camp. If you were applying a single color all-over the lid, it absolutely works well for that. It picks up color well and applies a lot of color from the get-go, and it's particularly nice for those subpar eyeshadows in one's stash, as you don't have to pack on the eyeshadow for quite as long.
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Z-4 Cheek/Highlight Brush

It's excellent for applying soft, even color along the cheeks with minimal blending required. Sometimes, after swatching five or six blushes on my cheeks back-to-back, I pay for it the next day with irritated, reddened skin that can result in drier patches, and this brush is very forgiving on the skin without further irritating it--and it manages to make color apply more evenly than many other brushes I own despite the rougher surface.
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